E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum
- Welcome to E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum.
Recent posts
#1
Car Shows, Events, and Races (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: Car show disaster
Last post by torredcuda - Today at 06:04:49 AMQuote from: tparker on May 19, 2024, 09:18:39 PMI have a hard time believing the man that was driving the golf cart would NOT be held accountable. If I drive another persons car in California and smack something, I can't just walk away. If I disapear, like I car jack the car or something, then the owner can be held liable. I would talk to the insurance and see what they say. Not sure how things are are where your at, but fender benders arn't recorded on the car. DMV doesn't get a report of a scratch or crushed front end, that is between you and the insurance company. You may get points taken off your record for a crash but they don't know the details. I find it odd that a record would be maintained.
In any case, I hope you get it resolved with minimal pain.
I don`t think too many states track and record fender benders on older vehicles and even if they do so what- it`s an old restored vehicle so unless you are claiming it`s all original panels no one will care.
#2
1965 Plymouth Barracuda
#3
T
Car Shows, Events, and Races (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: Car show disaster
Last post by tparker - May 19, 2024, 09:18:39 PMI have a hard time believing the man that was driving the golf cart would NOT be held accountable. If I drive another persons car in California and smack something, I can't just walk away. If I disapear, like I car jack the car or something, then the owner can be held liable. I would talk to the insurance and see what they say. Not sure how things are are where your at, but fender benders arn't recorded on the car. DMV doesn't get a report of a scratch or crushed front end, that is between you and the insurance company. You may get points taken off your record for a crash but they don't know the details. I find it odd that a record would be maintained.
In any case, I hope you get it resolved with minimal pain.
In any case, I hope you get it resolved with minimal pain.
#4
Sounds like an improperly sized fuse (hey, it happens) or a direct short to ground on the power side wiring or at least one brake light bulb.
Start at the brake pedal switch and visually look for any problem with 12V power to ground. Inspect the wiring from the switch to the left side kick panel, too. If good, proceed with checking the rear of the car. Bulbs alone can short to ground so you may just want to install new bulbs and see if the problem is fixed. If not, continue below.
Open the trunk and pull out the brake light bulb sockets. Pull each 1157 brake bulb out of the socket.
Inspect the socket and bulbs for anything out of sorts. If you have a multimeter, check each of the two socket pins to ground. They should not be grounded (~zero ohms).
Try the brake pedal again with no bulbs to see if the fuse survives. If so, then it is a bulb socket or installed bulb problem.
If the fuse blows, your problem is with the wiring. Inspect visually for any issue that may have sent 12V power to ground.
Pinched or exposed wiring along the wiring path is about all that is left to cause this problem.
You may have to pull the door sill plate and check the hidden portion of the wiring going to the rear of the car. The wiring passes behind the rear seat door panel as well. No fun to pull all of this out but may be necessary.
Let us know what you find.
Start at the brake pedal switch and visually look for any problem with 12V power to ground. Inspect the wiring from the switch to the left side kick panel, too. If good, proceed with checking the rear of the car. Bulbs alone can short to ground so you may just want to install new bulbs and see if the problem is fixed. If not, continue below.
Open the trunk and pull out the brake light bulb sockets. Pull each 1157 brake bulb out of the socket.
Inspect the socket and bulbs for anything out of sorts. If you have a multimeter, check each of the two socket pins to ground. They should not be grounded (~zero ohms).
Try the brake pedal again with no bulbs to see if the fuse survives. If so, then it is a bulb socket or installed bulb problem.
If the fuse blows, your problem is with the wiring. Inspect visually for any issue that may have sent 12V power to ground.
Pinched or exposed wiring along the wiring path is about all that is left to cause this problem.
You may have to pull the door sill plate and check the hidden portion of the wiring going to the rear of the car. The wiring passes behind the rear seat door panel as well. No fun to pull all of this out but may be necessary.
Let us know what you find.
#5
Cars For Sale or Wanted / Re: Challenger R/T SE at Mecum...
Last post by MoparCarGuy - May 19, 2024, 08:00:54 PMThe fender tag does not have any signs of being a repro.
This Challenger has all of the fender tag items on the car except for the V5X - Vinyl Side Moulding in Black.
It has G34 - Driver side painted racing mirror on the fender tag but is equipped with Dual painted racing mirrors which required G34 and G32 on early Challengers.
Added options MISSING from the fender tag:
G32 - Passenger side painted racing mirror
P31 - Power Windows
There is no mention of a Broadcast Sheet or Window Sticker to verify if the car came with the J46 - Locking Fuel Cap (flip-top). Early 1970 Challengers did not have J46 on the fender tag even if so equipped.
Only the Broadcast Sheet, Window Sticker, or a Sales Invoice could verify whether it came with the Rallye Wheels.
This is a very well-restored R/T-Special Edition that has a few extra desirable options added. The selling price confirms the quality of the build.
This Challenger has all of the fender tag items on the car except for the V5X - Vinyl Side Moulding in Black.
It has G34 - Driver side painted racing mirror on the fender tag but is equipped with Dual painted racing mirrors which required G34 and G32 on early Challengers.
Added options MISSING from the fender tag:
G32 - Passenger side painted racing mirror
P31 - Power Windows
There is no mention of a Broadcast Sheet or Window Sticker to verify if the car came with the J46 - Locking Fuel Cap (flip-top). Early 1970 Challengers did not have J46 on the fender tag even if so equipped.
Only the Broadcast Sheet, Window Sticker, or a Sales Invoice could verify whether it came with the Rallye Wheels.
This is a very well-restored R/T-Special Edition that has a few extra desirable options added. The selling price confirms the quality of the build.
#6
Cars For Sale or Wanted / Re: 1970 Plymouth 'Cuda 340, F...
Last post by MoparCarGuy - May 19, 2024, 07:18:27 PM #7
The headers are made of SMC a version of fibreglass and you can build it up and grind it down until you have formed what you need. Been there.........Just my 
#9
D
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by DeathProofCuda - May 19, 2024, 04:50:51 PMWhen the car is cool and will turn over, check cranking voltage at the coil. If you are at less than 9.5 volts then resistance in the primary circuit it too high.
Also check out the attached tech bulletin on ignition systems from 1969. Perfect for your original points car.
Also check out the attached tech bulletin on ignition systems from 1969. Perfect for your original points car.
#10
D
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by DeathProofCuda - May 19, 2024, 04:32:48 PMThe fact that the car won't turn over when warm makes me think it is too much resistance in the primary electrical circuit. Wiring warms up, resistance increases and then voltage to coil is too low for good spark and not enough juice to turn the car over. Wiring cools, resistance drops enough to supply enough voltage for it to turn over and run well for awhile.
I'd go through and clean up all connections of the primary electrical circuit and see if that does the trick.
Carb and coil issues aren't going to keep the car from turning over.
I'd go through and clean up all connections of the primary electrical circuit and see if that does the trick.
Carb and coil issues aren't going to keep the car from turning over.