I am not sure how this has gone unnoticed, it must not be too vital to suspension....BUT:
I ordered both of my shock towers for my '70 Barracuda and I installed my right hand first because i have to do my left frame rail as well. I took way too many measurements before cutting the tower off, which I am glad I did. On the picture below, the spot marked, which is the rear hole for the control arm, measures at a different height on the AMD shock towers. AMD confirmed that the right tower measures at 1 5/8" at that spot, which is what mine was at as well. The left AMD one I have is 1 1/4". They are both 1 1/4 inches from the top of the frame rail from the factory, or at least they were on my car. The front side is the same on both replacements, and same as original, which is a hair over 3". This would make the right control arm slightly crooked in comparison to stock and the left control arm right?
I, with the experience of having to "cut to make fit" replacement panels not made by AMD, decided to cut it to get close to that measurement 1 1/4". Not thinking of the outcome of the rest of the shock tower itself. I finished up with all the measurements that mattered (from what I thought) which were:
-front of frame rail to front of shock tower
-upper shock tower hole from left tower
-control arm bolt holes from frame rail
None of the other measurements could be changed unless the shock tower was altered itself. I then went to mock up the inner fender to notice that the shock tower was slightly crooked in the cut out, and my firewall to shock hole measurement was 1/2" off. The rear control arm bolt hole ended up 1/8" low once it was welded in place, but that would not cause 1/2" on the top.
Personally, I think the shock tower itself being straight is more vital than the control arm being slightly crooked. So I plan on re-ordering and installing the tower based on the shock hole, not the control arm bracket.
Thoughts?
Hmm: Okay if you can adjust your control arms to correct spec I suppose. My thinking is that the control arm slots are critical so that you can properly align the front end. The shocks kind of don't matter as long as they aren't rubbing on the control arms.
Having the control arm in the right place is the most critcal part of the whole deal, by far. The shock is much less critical, and everything else is just body measurements.
The control arm being "slightly crooked" will change the caster, an 1/8" low will make a big difference.
What I am saying is 1/8" would not cause that top shock hole to be 1/2" off. Something is wrong with the shock tower's construction.
What I am curious of is what other people do when they get these shock towers, are they running a crooked control arm or a crooked shock? Because they appear to all be built crooked.
When I replaced the frame rail on my 71 a few years ago I left the original shock tower on. If you need to replace it I didn't use the new one that came with the rail.
Quote from: falcben on October 24, 2018, 10:16:23 PM
What I am saying is 1/8" would not cause that top shock hole to be 1/2" off. Something is wrong with the shock tower's construction.
What I am curious of is what other people do when they get these shock towers, are they running a crooked control arm or a crooked shock? Because they appear to all be built crooked.
There doesn't necessarily have to be anything wrong with the shock towers construction.
Lowering the rear corner of the shock tower like you did will tilt the entire shock tower backward. By changing the angle of the entire shock tower you moved the shock mounting hole toward the firewall. Because the angle changed, it doesn't have to be a "like for like" movement. Meaning, lowering the rear corner of the tower an 1/8"
vertically could move the hole backward
horizontally more than an 1/8" because you
rotated the entire shock tower backward.
And regardless, moving the control arm mount by an 1/8" will have a bigger impact on your suspension than moving the shock back a 1/2". That 1/8" represents a significant change in your caster angle.
There is still no explanation as to why the left AMD shock tower measures at 1 1/4" and the right measures to 1 5/8" in the same spot.
Just an update on this. I ordered and installed another AMD Shock Tower. They told me to mount it how they send it and that the bad measurement has not posed any problems.
I thought I would share a picture to show what I saw when I got the shock tower and why I thought it should be approached. LEFT is the drivers side one that is the same as factory, RIGHT is the passenger side that measures 3/8" higher.
As I said, they claim it poses no issues whatsoever, so I just ran it as is.
Quote from: falcben on November 02, 2018, 01:45:35 PM
Just an update on this. I ordered and installed another AMD Shock Tower. They told me to mount it how they send it and that the bad measurement has not posed any problems.
I thought I would share a picture to show what I saw when I got the shock tower and why I thought it should be approached. LEFT is the drivers side one that is the same as factory, RIGHT is the passenger side that measures 3/8" higher.
As I said, they claim it poses no issues whatsoever, so I just ran it as is.
I wouldn't like that much either, they should at least be the same side to side. That will effect the geometry of the front end. Most might not notice it but.... it would bug me.
I'm just curious....I've restored some of the rustiest E Bodies in the world and I don't recall ever having to replace the shock tower....What gives ? What was wrong with yours ?
Quote from: anlauto on November 02, 2018, 05:22:21 PM
I'm just curious....I've restored some of the rustiest E Bodies in the world and I don't recall ever having to replace the shock tower....What gives ? What was wrong with yours ?
Mine rusted different from other cars. Mine didn't rust from elements from the bottom up like most, mine rusted from the top down because it was parked under a tree for years, which explains why my roof is rusty but my rockers are not. Soggy leaves and dirt sitting in and around the frame rails and shock towers just ate away all of the metal. Left frame rail was rusted out completely under the shock tower and the control arm brackets were weak on both sides. Made sense to just spend the $100 on each and have solid metal to not worry about.
I get the frame rail repair, but I hadn't seen shock towers rusted out.
I'll get better photos tonight. I was tapping around with a screw driver one night and it went straight through the square cutout to the control arm bracket on the left and through a corner of the right tower. I was surprised because the metal is so thick, but it is what it is.
Quote from: anlauto on November 02, 2018, 05:22:21 PM
I'm just curious....I've restored some of the rustiest E Bodies in the world and I don't recall ever having to replace the shock tower....What gives ? What was wrong with yours ?
There's no question you have "worked" on rusty E Bodies, when you say "I've" restored some of the rustiest, did you do actually do any of the work in "your (garage) shop"?
Wow, you're on a roll today HEMICUDA. :deadhorse: Are you going to start that thread about how GREAT you are ? :fingerscrossed:
Quote from: anlauto on November 04, 2018, 09:04:04 AM
Wow, you're on a roll today HEMICUDA. :deadhorse: Are you going to start that thread about how GREAT you are ? :fingerscrossed:
It's got nothing to do with me Alley, it's amazing how much chest pounding you do about everything you don't do. I've been very quite until you open your hole and say how proud my parents are. We actually do everything that you have no clue about, I had no problem with you posting how great you are until your cyber balls reared their ugly head against me once again. Looks like we're going to have another chat at Carlisle, I'll be looking for you, think you'll be looking for me? Doubt it.
And now this site degenerates......
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on November 04, 2018, 09:38:35 AM
And now this site degenerates......
:iagree: all it takes is this one person, seems he's into name calling, personal/business belittling and now threats....maybe Mommy and Daddy shouldn't be so proud... :dunno:
Quote from: falcben on November 02, 2018, 07:39:00 PM
I'll get better photos tonight. I was tapping around with a screw driver one night and it went straight through the square cutout to the control arm bracket on the left and through a corner of the right tower. I was surprised because the metal is so thick, but it is what it is.
I wonder if good used ones could be found and used? Not a fan of what your pictures are showing. :rubeyes:
Quote from: Brads70 on November 04, 2018, 10:36:47 AM
Quote from: falcben on November 02, 2018, 07:39:00 PM
I'll get better photos tonight. I was tapping around with a screw driver one night and it went straight through the square cutout to the control arm bracket on the left and through a corner of the right tower. I was surprised because the metal is so thick, but it is what it is.
I wonder if good used ones could be found and used? Not a fan of what your pictures are showing. :rubeyes:
I agree if good used ones were available that is the direction I would try. On the other hand. AMD has been around the block for awhile and some trust has to be given that this is ok. If down the road you find otherwise they WILL be hung out to dry in these public forums.
Speaking about public forums...
Hem.... personal issues are to be kept TO YOUR OWN THREADS. These are to enjoy and learn.
We are all to stick to the topic at hand. Offer points and counterpoints. This is not personal.
My 2c
Mike
Falcben this statement is one shot with no replys in your thread.
Carry on the good work.
Suspension points are fairly critical to handling and drivability and I would NOT be ok with that much difference side to side, can you correct the arm location without affecting the rest of the part by cutting the spot welds and re-positioning and re-welding just that bracket? If not I would find a good used one.