E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum
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#1
Thank you I will start on it tonight
#2
Parts / Misc For Sale / Small Block, 90 Degree Oil Fil...
Last post by nonfish - Today at 06:20:19 AMSelling this 90 Degree Oil Filter Adapter.
It was the original factory installed one from my AAR.
I removed it and installed a DC aluminum on the engine back in 1983. It has been sitting ever since.
Date code: 2 03 0
Casting # 2951995
Selling for $95 + shipping cost
Payment by a US Postal Money Order or by PayPal "friends & family"
It was the original factory installed one from my AAR.
I removed it and installed a DC aluminum on the engine back in 1983. It has been sitting ever since.
Date code: 2 03 0
Casting # 2951995
Selling for $95 + shipping cost
Payment by a US Postal Money Order or by PayPal "friends & family"
#3
Parts / Misc For Sale / Re: 1970/71 Challenger REAR VA...
Last post by Caparco - Today at 05:20:39 AMIs this still available if so please message me thanks
#4
Is there a bike somewhere in that first pic? Nice job!
#5
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Whats your fav 70's rims ...
Last post by chargerdon - Today at 04:57:55 AMThey make 17" rally wheels that are of course period correct, and also 17" Magnum 500's that are also a period correct favorite of mine
#6
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on May 20, 2024, 08:48:05 PMfrom my experience that would be close to perfectThanks a lot for this feedback. Just out of curiosity - have you had any such retrofits done and have you experienced this exhaust size on some car?
#7
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Whats your fav 70's rims ...
Last post by Duodec - May 20, 2024, 09:26:02 PMI always liked slot mags, but had a soft spot for the look of Cragar S/S wheels and a deep aversion to unilug and the cost.
My car came with Mercury Cougar mags which look like S/S but were chromed steel. I later replaced them with a set of Appliance Steel Spoke wheels, which are also S/S clones in steel. Got offered good money by a Cougar driver for the Cougar mags.
My car came with Mercury Cougar mags which look like S/S but were chromed steel. I later replaced them with a set of Appliance Steel Spoke wheels, which are also S/S clones in steel. Got offered good money by a Cougar driver for the Cougar mags.
#8
from my experience that would be close to perfect
#9
Electrical & Audio / Re: Intermittent problem with ...
Last post by Chryco Psycho - May 20, 2024, 08:46:51 PMFuel & ign problems can often be confused
Fuel side - lean which seems most obvious to me as you say it stop if you add more fuel , so fuel level & jetting are the first things to check , I find if you are running stock fuel pump increasing the fuel level slightly really helps on Eddy carbs , eddys are also notoriusly lean out of the box & float levels are never close .
Exhaust leak is another possibilty this can change with throttle .
Ign side , weak spring on the points causing floating but would not change with throttle , Weak coil usually breaks down under more load not less but still possible , not enough coil voltage , poor Ign wires , wrong gap / heat range Cold / poor make , NGK is the worst they love to misfire & foul
I always runmax timing at idle & limit advance curve , without causing pinging , typically the best is to set your timing near max RPM at idle then hold the rpm at around 3000 rpm & see how much timing you have to back off to get it to run its best , if you have an adjustable timing light you should get 2 number around 16* & 38* , mechanical advance should get you close by itself , maybe add a few degrees of vacuum or just leave it disconnected .
Fuel side - lean which seems most obvious to me as you say it stop if you add more fuel , so fuel level & jetting are the first things to check , I find if you are running stock fuel pump increasing the fuel level slightly really helps on Eddy carbs , eddys are also notoriusly lean out of the box & float levels are never close .
Exhaust leak is another possibilty this can change with throttle .
Ign side , weak spring on the points causing floating but would not change with throttle , Weak coil usually breaks down under more load not less but still possible , not enough coil voltage , poor Ign wires , wrong gap / heat range Cold / poor make , NGK is the worst they love to misfire & foul
I always runmax timing at idle & limit advance curve , without causing pinging , typically the best is to set your timing near max RPM at idle then hold the rpm at around 3000 rpm & see how much timing you have to back off to get it to run its best , if you have an adjustable timing light you should get 2 number around 16* & 38* , mechanical advance should get you close by itself , maybe add a few degrees of vacuum or just leave it disconnected .
#10
Power flows to the switch from the fuse block up through the steering column & turn switch back down to the plug at the kick panel & out to the trunk start testing with an ohm meter for ground with the circuit disconnected from power disconnect sections until the ground goes away , remove the brake lights also as you will have a resistance reading through them .
