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#1
My 1969 Barracuda 383 has developed an intermittent drive-ability problem. (I know it isn't an E-body, but this is the only forum I am a member of for Cuda's and Challengers so hopefully you will still help me).   The car is completely stock and has points. The car will start and run fine, but at some point after about driving 40+ minutes will begin to, on part throttle, make little multiple minor pop backfires. If you hit the gas a little harder it won't backfire but you can feel the engine is not running at it's 'usual" best. Then if you turn the car off, it won't be able to immediately restart as if the battery is weak (which its not).  The ignition will just 'tick' but can't turn the engine over. If I try to restart it  an hour later, the car will run perfectly again for another 40 to 80 minutes until it reoccurs. An electrical shop says they can find no shorts nor get the problem to happen for them due to how it occurs. I can tell they see it as too ambiguous to be worth their trouble. I will also try  to find another place  willing to work on this type of issue.

The parts on these cars are inexpensive and easy to replace. In a worst case scenario where it can't be determined the cause, what are all the parts to blindly replace and in what order? I assume the voltage regulators (both dash and firewall),  ballast, coil, & points, first all at once to save time. Then the  distributor, alternator, fuel-pump, carb one at a time. I bet I missed some parts, what are they? Thanks for your help and any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
#2
avatar_700 AKN
General Topics / Re: HOT RODS,RAT RODS,CUSTOMS,...
Last post by 700 AKN - May 17, 2024, 10:10:40 PM
1969 AMC Javelin

#3
avatar_JH27N0B
General Topics / Mecum Indianapolis ‘24 pictu...
Last post by JH27N0B - May 17, 2024, 09:55:11 PM
I went down to Indianapolis Wednesday and checked out the cars there.  Got a Dodge Thrill ride while there, probably the last chance for me as I don't think those will continue much longer.  Nice free Dodge tee shirt from the ride too.
A coworker went with me and wanted to bid on an IHC pickup, it ended up selling for about twice what he wanted to pay.  In fact, most cars I watched were selling high. So much for Hagerty saying prices are down?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/111914442@N04/albums/72177720317065281/
#4
X
Electrical & Audio / Re: Alternator Bypass Wire Rou...
Last post by xx88man - May 17, 2024, 08:55:46 PM

[/quote]
I went to a local battery shop and they made one for me.
[/quote]

Thanks I may try that
#5
Thought I would add the guides I put together to this thread if anyone did not want to go through the other threads. Should answer Cuda Joe's question on setting ride height. Also, included the service manual section for same info.
#6
The wiring bracket on the power brake booster you asked about. Better view with no wires running through it.
#7
T
Cars For Sale or Wanted / Re: 1970 AAR Cuda, B5, auto, ...
Last post by TX9AAR - May 17, 2024, 07:34:23 PM
Ad is back up asking $175,000
#8
avatar_Racer57
Electrical & Audio / Re: Alternator Bypass Wire Rou...
Last post by Racer57 - May 17, 2024, 07:17:05 PM
Quote from: xx88man on May 17, 2024, 01:32:07 PMI want to buy 2 of these bypass wires. Sent a message to @crackedback some time ago and never got a response. Is he still doing them? Or anyone else making them. I'm in Canada
I went to a local battery shop and they made one for me.
#9
avatar_blown motor
General Topics / Re: NO MORE NAPA GOLD FILTERS
Last post by blown motor - May 17, 2024, 05:58:47 PM
I ordered a case of WIX 51515 filters and a case of 51085 filters from Amazon, at a great price, and they are both made in the USA. For you Canadian guys, that was Amazon.com not Amazon.ca.
#10
avatar_57Fury440
Interior / Re: Passenger door not opening...
Last post by 57Fury440 - May 17, 2024, 05:57:45 PM
I will try that tomorrow and see if it works. I don't think there is an adjustment, so I may just remove the latch to see what's going on.