Next weekend I plan on replacing my lower ball joints.... there isn't much info online but I did read that I can do it without removing the torsion bar. Can someone tell me what to expect on these cars as in how much time this will take and what I should expect? I assume I just need a jack, a pickle fork, a hammer and basic hand tools? It is a 1971 Challenger and I'm pretty sure it's all original. Thanks in advance.
:cheers:
Yup: I think you have it actually. No reason to mess with the T-bars. Undo the tie rod end, pickle it, unbolt the BJ from the spindle and replace. 1hr tops? Usually the only hiccup is if the cotter pins are rusted badly.
Make sure you support the lower control arm also before you unbolt the spindle from the ball joint.
If you're gonna do the ball joint without doing the lower bushings your wasting your time... :alan2cents:
Thanks for the advice guys!
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on September 22, 2019, 06:30:38 PM
If you're gonna do the ball joint without doing the lower bushings your wasting your time... :alan2cents:
I assume you are meaning the LCA bushings? Sorry for my ignorance.... are you saying these will definitely be worn out too? How much is involved in replacing the lower bushings? Thanks again
Lower ball joints are steel, and lubricated.. Bushings are rubber, they both support the car, they both absorb movement any time the suspension travels... If the ball joints are worm the bushings are shot...
The lower control arm bushings are likely the most ignored and neglected parts of your suspension...
How well do you know Sheldon?
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on September 22, 2019, 11:04:29 PM
How well do you know Sheldon?
I have met Sheldon on a few occasions..... why do you ask?
Because it would be a heck of a lot easier for him to explain in person than for me to type out how to change the lower bushings...
Oh yeah for sure: I hope to be picking up a new motorcycle but that should only take a day.
Sheldon, sorry for volunteering you but your close & btdt so it's the best way for someone to learn
I just did a set of LCA bushings on Friday....I would say it's a pretty involved job needing some pretty decent tools.
I use a 20 ton press, a pipe sleeve, a welder, etc... just to change the bushing.
In my opinion the LCA has to come right out of the car, meaning removal of the torsion bar, strut rod, lower ball joint connecting...
It's really involved. :alan2cents:
If they can be done in the car...I would love to hear how it's done... :idea:
Where did anyone say anything about doing it on the car? It is a big job, but it's worth doing, changing lower ball joints rarely makes a significant difference in how the car drives... Lower bushing almost always do..
Quote from: anlauto link=topic=13066.msg176661#msg176661 date=156929166
If they can be done in the car...I would love to hear how it's done... :idea:
/quote]
I'd watch that video! Probably on Penn and teller.
I agree 1000% about replacing them, but I guess I just got the idea the original poster was looking for something he can swap out in a weekend....I figured his car was a driver and not going under a complete restoration. :dunno: Maybe I'm wrong ?
Anybody restoring a car or a car's front suspension and steering and NOT replacing the LCA bushings is just wacko :looney:
We talk about many different methods of doing a job on here, if there is a method for doing them in the car I would like to hear it...that's all :thinking:
Yeah, me too, but in this case it's not happening.... FWIW I typically go through the whole front suspension, upper Lower ball joints, upper & lower bushings, strut rod bushings, tie rods, idler, sway bar bushings all of it takes me six hours... So someone who's never been there before can expect two full days or more... Then it's gotta be aligned...
Just the lower bushings & loser ball joints I can get done in a couple hours... But I've done a few.. New guy it could easily take a day.. And again go get an alignment...
Which is why I prefer to do it all & only align it once..
Yes the car is a driver. The truth is I want to get it to pass out-of-province inspection so that I can occasionally drive the car. Winter is coming so I'm hoping to put off major repairs until then.
Yeah:If it will pass with just the BJ's I say go for it in this instance. I'm thinking you pull out the lowers, then you might as well blast them and paint them, change the shocks and you better pull the uppers and blast and paint them and change the upper BJs and bushings. Then when you're that far you might as well drop out the K, inspect it, then clean and powdercoat it. That's how it goes for me anyway.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on September 23, 2019, 08:26:04 PM
Yeah:If it will pass with just the BJ's I say go for it in this instance. I'm thinking you pull out the lowers, then you might as well blast them and paint them, change the shocks and you better pull the uppers and blast and paint them and change the upper BJs and bushings. Then when you're that far you might as well drop out the K, inspect it, then clean and powdercoat it. That's how it goes for me anyway.
I've done it both ways.. I prefer the clean, powder coat, detailed approach but many people don't want to pay for that so you just do the best job you can & send it down the road...
Every body here should know that the first thing to do is get a FSM and read it. Then you will know how much of a job it will be for You. Always get a friend to help. Easier and safer. Proper tools. Pickle forks destroy the ball joint boots on the tie rods. Before you start taking anything apart do or have a proper inspection done on the complete front suspension. If it needs attention, better to do as much as you can at the same time. Saves a lot of time. Buy quality parts. Use good grease and lube the whole front end while you are there.