Have you made a tool , a part, etc... for your E-Body? Post up some pictures. It might inspire others!
Front K member/drivetrain stand and adjustable A&E body vehicle cherry picker bracket.
Shane - cool stand but if it could telescope it down then you wouldn't have to put the rear end of the car so high up.
I had a similar situation where putting the rear end so high up got a bit sketchy.
Now using a lift and your k-member stand would work a charm!
Quote from: HP_Cuda on August 21, 2017, 11:09:49 AM
Shane - cool stand but if it could telescope it down then you wouldn't have to put the rear end of the car so high up.
I had a similar situation where putting the rear end so high up got a bit sketchy.
Now using a lift and your k-member stand would work a charm!
I thought about that. But was to lazy to go through all that effort. If I was using it all the time that would be another story. This was a good height so I could slide under the car and bolt up the trans cross member. That's the first thing I fasten up. Then I slide a floor jack under the front of the stand and jack the K member and car up together and then install K member bolts. It's pretty stable when using the XL jack stands under the rear end housing. Under the rear frame rails. Not so much. A little nerve racking to say the least.
I admire people who not only build their own cars but also the equipment to do so.
I made this valley pan awhile back when I was building my engine.
Water pump spacers
Pinion shims for composite leaf springs. With composite leaf springs you can't have the U bolts touching the spring, that why the " side wing"
Making my front spoiler
Fender flair project, fitted in 315/30/18 with 18x11" rims. Don't worry I have my original rust free California fenders stored away. I cut up AMD repops.
Finished fender project...
Paint match is off, someday I'll paint the whole car.
Circle track power steering pump project, made the brackets to suit my 451"
Got tired of leaky thermostat housings so I made my own....
Great stuff Brad: I love all of it!
Brad is Jedi Wizard level with metal. :clapping:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 23, 2017, 06:02:52 PM
Brad is Jedi Wizard level with metal. :clapping:
no kidding.
I wish I had that kind of skill!
Jason
I do not want to make everyone jealous, but this is some fancy welding. :Thud: :haha: I can not take credit for the first repair.... we found it on one of my cars that I bought that had all the "metal work" done and was "paint ready". :Thud: If I had to find something positive to say about the first repair attempt, at least they tried to fix it with metal and not bondo.
Brad has some "mad" fabrication skills! When ever I have a fabrication question I PM Brad. I was going to post a few things but my skills are extremely amateurish.
Quote from: Burdar on August 23, 2017, 06:17:16 PM
I was going to post a few things but my skills are extremely amateurish.
Don't say that, not true! I love your work. Post it up man! I remember some of your nice clean/neat brackets for transmission coolers etc...
Raspberry jam. Hey, I don't have a lathe! And with no kids at home anymore I get to lick the beaters. :D
Quote from: Cuda Cody on August 23, 2017, 06:02:52 PM
Brad is Jedi Wizard level with metal. :clapping:
For sure!
Designed, 3D printed and installed my Speedhut tach mount.
The power steering bracket w/torque strap mount is of my design, laser cut.
The Formula car [not e-body related], my colleagues and I designed, built [from scratch] and raced it. I designed the suspension and did a very heavy amount of fabrication on it.
"Goody" I've got an idea for a part that could be 3D printed. Do you still have access to a 3D printer? If so, PM me sometime. :wave:
Started this project a few years ago, haven't done much in some time. Planning on building my own k-frame with a rack. Using Nascar road race spindles with a few modifications to get the geometry right. I bought a set of Mercedes AMG 8 piston Brembo's and rebuilt them ( $18 bucks for the kit at Rock auto!) Wilwood rotors and made my own hubs. Nascar stuff was too heavy and wrong bolt pattern. I don't think I'll be wearing out those wheel bearings any time soon! LOL
More for K-Frame project....
Mounting calipers to spindles.
Very nice work Brad! :perfect10:
Cheers!
Mickm
I got some more use out of my dimple dies.... came in handy when mounting a new rad.
Double pass C&R Rad mounted in rubber bushings . I "harvested" the bushings of some car in the wrecking yard. They pull the rads usually for scrap aluminum so the bushing are easy pickings. The last rad I had cracked or pulled the tubes away from the the tanks . It was mounted solid like stock, so the next attempt I mounted it so it floats in rubber like modern rads do. I can wiggle the rad around so hopefully I won't have anymore issues. Had to make a few mounts to do that....
First picture is what's under the dimple die top plate.
Second is the mounts that got pop riveted to the rad flange
HEY , someone else post up !
There has got to be lots of others that make cool stuff. Gives others ideas!
:rebelflag" :unitedstates: Well, is electrical OK ? I can build any relay panel you need.
I am going mental , I cannot remmeber the last thing I created
I did have to fight to make everything work & create some innovations & brackets on the car I assembled in Sept , nothing bolted together , everything had to be reworked , what a battle . I will refrain from disclosing the car I was working on :sorry: :-X
Very unique. The hose clamps look great! :bigthumb:
Emblems for long slow project with some progression until they "fell off" their backing plate.
YellowThumper, those look cool! Nice job :bradsthumb:
Cheers!
Mickm
Custom intercooler tanks so they fit car without cutting anything. Relocation brackets for aftermarket radiator.
Awesome work guys. Your craftsmanship is stellar.
Happy to see we still have great innovations in this hobby
In addition to the above others. I adapted the Magnum front accessories to the LA360. Here is the P/S pump relocation bracket from cardboard mockup to final mounting. Final mounting location is similar location to original. Magnum mounted up high. Taking up real estate I needed.
Here is my version of T housing and upper hose.
Working on a buddy's 1968 Charger. When mounting the rear bumper it's insane trying to reach the body to bumper bracket bolts/nuts. Enough of that crap! So I made the nuts captive so you don't need a wrench, just tighten them from the inside of the trunk.
Does non car related get any respect? :)
I know it's nothing like Cody's Garage Mahal but I needed a little shade cover on the side of my house so I built a steel framework and covered it with redwood.... Momma wanted it stained to match the gate I built a few years ago when I was building the block wall....
Quote from: Brads70 on April 21, 2018, 09:23:59 AM
Working on a buddy's 1968 Charger. When mounting the rear bumper it's insane trying to reach the body to bumper bracket bots/nuts. Enough of that crap! So I made the nuts captive so you don't need a wrench, just tighten them from the inside of the trunk.
Huge thumbs up on simple items such as that.
Mike
I'm just blown away at yal's skills.
I'd like to buy every one of those parts.
I have a picture of the rear interior b pillar covers that are usually card board that Bart made out of metal with an english wheel.
When I find it i'll post it up.
a
Here is some of the plenum I have started. Baseplate started as a 1" thick block. It mounts a Ford TB. Also some of the piping iterations I have been trying to sort out.
I really enjoy watching Ifixmycarmyself videos on youtube. He is a true inspiration!! I'll probably hang a couple of repro fenders but sure plan on repairing mine after watching him! :wrenching: 8) :twothumbsup:
I have the intank pump set up from Tanks Inc to replace my current electric fuel pump . I made this to go in place of the pump so I don't have to make another line..... and so I can always go back if I ever want to?
Here is my modified 402 pan. had to do this so it would fit in the car . the 67 still has small block K frame.
painted
Quote from: Brads70 on May 06, 2018, 07:30:32 PM
I have the intank pump set up from Tanks Inc to replace my current electric fuel pump . I made this to go in place of the pump so I don't have to make another line..... and so I can always go back if I ever want to?
NICE...
gas tank mounts, used the gas tank mount for the electric fuel pump also.
cut out trunk floor and installed a "laying around" metal bar to hold the back of the tank.
then you can see the filler neck that goes around the frame rail on the drivers side.
and the 40ish gallon tank that we put in that was out of a dodge van 92 as I recall.
this car was my very good friend's car. I helped him do a ton of the changes on the car over the years. Now it's mine and I have to go through and try to make some of these mods look and function better.
And I totally understand that all of these mods do not look anywhere as cool as you guys's mods. but this is what we could do with what we had. back in the nineties and early 00's.
And a sledge hammer was used for the inner fender well modification to fit the big block in.
I don't think I can fit headers in there. so I'm using an ebody passengers side exhaust I believe.
QuoteWhat are you making? Horn ring?
Some of my pictures don't show up any more. I posted one to start with...just to make sure Postimages.org was still working. THen I went back and finished the post.
That's looking nice. I like stuff like that.
Console lid repair............ simple but effective !!!
Stumbled across this while I was cleaning up the garage. It's a transmission plate for my floor jack. Last year when I rebuilt my transmission for the Ram I slapped it together since I had to work on my very sloped driveway. At least the truck is tall enough that I didn't need to jack it up to get the transmission out from under the truck, although it did involve a come a long to keep the jack from rolling down the driveway. I used a ratchet strap hooked to the two pieces of square stock to keep it from slipping off the plate
I recently made this coil spring compressor/decompressor to rebuild the front suspension on my 68 AMX. Components are : all threaded rod, 6" pipe, thrust bearings to eliminate binding, fabricated 8" deep well socket to travel up 3/4" threaded rod to compress spring, bolt latch to contain spring under compression. Store bought don't work because they are designed to go down the center of the spring and there is no way to install a spring compressor to go down the center of the spring (no access). You would be surprised the risks people take to get these coils out. This spring compressor/decompressor is 100% fool-proof and only takes minutes to remove a coiled spring.
I found that the driver side rear shock mount was broken when I went to replace the air shocks. The shaft broke off and they opened the hole up with a cutting torch so they could mount the shock with a 3/8" bolt. :looney: I couldn't find a used one quickly and couldn't bring myself to pay for a repop so I went about fixing it. I forgot to get before pics but the process was to clean the hole up a bit to get good surface to weld to. Weld the hole almost closed, should have gone all the way, next step would have been faster. Once it was welded up I mounted in the mill and faced the surface to give a good surface and then bored the hole out. Took forever because the plate was flexing quite a bit and the weld material is pretty hard. I turned new shaft in the lathe and threaded the end. Dropped it in the new hole and welded inside and out (I love my new Hobart 190 Mig!). I even made new washers by putting a big washer in a cup and pressing a big ball bearing in the center to give them the cup shape. Took longer than I expected but was a very satisfying project that kept the original part in use.
Very nice work!
I hate to tell you this now BUT, you can get a replacement "pin" at your local parts store. The replacements bolt on. You could weld the replacement pin on instead of having the nut exposed on the back side. That would have saved you having to make a pin. Great work none the less!!!
Quote from: Burdar on August 15, 2018, 09:24:40 AM
Very nice work!
I hate to tell you this now BUT, you can get a replacement "pin" at your local parts store. The replacements bolt on. You could weld the replacement pin on instead of having the nut exposed on the back side. That would have saved you having to make a pin. Great work none the less!!!
Thanks!
Yeah, I ran across those pins somewhere but they actually cost money, can you believe that?? Actually making the pin was the fastest part of the process besides welding, took less than half an hour on the lathe and I had the material in the scrap bin. Facing off the plate and boring the hole was close to two hours because the material was hardened and I couldn't get a rigid setup with my vise. So I had to take little nibbly cuts that went on and on and on. I get a kick out of building these parts myself when I can. It doesn't always make sense cost/time wise, but I often learn something. For instance, I decided to add the reinforcement plates to the LCA while I'm working on the suspension. I spent 60 minutes hacking them out of some 10ga plate that was on hand and figured out a way to hold the plates stacked together so all the holes were cut through both parts at the same time. I think they came out looking as good as the aftermarket ones that are $30+ a pair plus shipping.
Welded in before cleanup.
Does fiberglass count?
The hinge area seating on the ebay T/A hood I have was not ideal and lead to binding.
Plus the bolt anchors were two separate tiny steel coupons. I think this would have lead to the hood warping if I used springs.
After slicing the anchor area open and sanding as far down the inside of the side channels as I could, I took long pieces of flat bar steel and epoxied them inside the side channels.
Added layers until near the shape I wanted and then smoothed it out. Fits a lot better now. Has been on the car since 2014 with some trampoline springs with out warping.
Shawge, I like how you reinforced the hood. I believe the ebay seller still sells that T/A hood for only $650, plus $175.00 shipping. If so, it was made in Mexico by Fiberglass Industries, and has a white gelcoat on it. Did you have to pay an import tax , duty, or tariff?
Trying NOT to get sucked into circle track racing but I got talked into making a few things for my buddy's car. Just come and look they said.... Changed the bolt pattern (5x5)and installed bigger studs in a pair of C-Body rotors. I enjoy racing don't get me wrong but I just can't /don't want to spend the time it takes to be involved.
Ohhh, that's a slippery slope you're on there Brad! I know you escaped from the roundy round crew once already and I see they're not giving up any time soon! Enjoy! :cheers:
It's for the good of the Mopar name after all.
Just when I thought I was out, they drag me back in! "Micheal Corleone"
With 3 project cars, Challenger, 68 Mustang (wife's) and 64 Falcon Sprint (assembling for sale), space is non existent at best.
Of course this year California finally is having plenty of rain. So working outside has not been happening for weeks.
My solution for some workable space is to be able to roll a car sideways up against the wall. So I am making some rolling platforms.
Wheels are just cheap roller bearings mounted sideways.
Ramp lip is slightly off of ground when sitting flat on rollers. Plan to drive up them is to tuck them to the tire. This will slightly lift the platforms rear wheels off ground. They will then cantilever onto all 4 rollers when driving over the pivot point.
Not on yet but there will also be a forward bump stop on them. In my mind this will work nicely. Plus all is solid so car can sit on them for extended lengths of time.
With my single weekend day of no rain yesterday I was on a roll and was going to pound them out to finish. Except....... I ran out of argon!. :pullinghair:
All plans came to a screeching halt. :bricks:
12"x 18" x 3/16 stock. Sliced to allow it to bend and adjust to proper working level. Slice will then be welded up to regain strength to support properly.
1"Ø bar stock turned on ends to accept bearing threaded for bolt and washer to retain and a bunch of scrap angle stock for spacer legs.
Enjoy the "almost" finished roller plates.
Mike
Not innovative like some of the other cool stuff in this thread but I thought I'd share what I've been doing to frame rails. I know a lot of guys replace the entire rails when there is problems but oftentimes, it's just the last foot of rail where the bumper brackets attach and rot out. Patching a rail nicely is far easier and faster than putting in a whole new rail.
Second item of the day (that also came to halt due to running out of argon) is a sheetmetal brake.
Made this a bunch of years ago and worked ok for what I needed then. Just ok though.
Top U channel plate flexed too much and the vertical face always got in the way for compound bends.
First 2 pictures are from what I copied to make mine from.
Now with a stronger top and angled top plate.
2" x 3" heavy wall box and 1.5" flat stock welded on for wedge shape.
I am working towards making (and bending) my own fan shroud out of aluminum. So 'just ok" would not cut it.
This will also need some more finished welding due to gas running out. :bricks:
Tip of the day to locate hidden hole locations: Needed to transfer the bolt holes from existing bottom plate to the new top.
Placed washers in correct bottom location. Added a couple drops of super glue to top of washer. Carefully placed new piece on them in correct location. Let dry, pick up and flip over. Trace the washer ID and then pop of and drill.
Worked like a charm.
Mike
Quote from: YellowThumper on February 17, 2019, 08:58:03 PM
With 3 project cars, Challenger, 68 Mustang (wife's) and 64 Falcon Sprint (assembling for sale), space is non existent at best.
Of course this year California finally is having plenty of rain. So working outside has not been happening for weeks.
My solution for some workable space is to be able to roll a car sideways up against the wall. So I am making some rolling platforms.
Wheels are just cheap roller bearings mounted sideways.
Ramp lip is slightly off of ground when sitting flat on rollers. Plan to drive up them is to tuck them to the tire. This will slightly lift the platforms rear wheels off ground. They will then cantilever onto all 4 rollers when driving over the pivot point.
Not on yet but there will also be a forward bump stop on them. In my mind this will work nicely. Plus all is solid so car can sit on them for extended lengths of time.
With my single weekend day of no rain yesterday I was on a roll and was going to pound them out to finish. Except....... I ran out of argon!. :pullinghair:
All plans came to a screeching halt. :bricks:
12"x 18" x 3/16 stock. Sliced to allow it to bend and adjust to proper working level. Slice will then be welded up to regain strength to support properly.
1"Ø bar stock turned on ends to accept bearing threaded for bolt and washer to retain and a bunch of scrap angle stock for spacer legs.
Enjoy the "almost" finished roller plates.
Mike
As a follow up to previous post with roller plates. Here are the finished pieces. Will need to adjust the ramp as they would slide when trying to go up. Worked like a charm once on them. Rolled that sucker up to the wall. Now I have plenty of space for Challenger...
As we live in earthquake county, note the cabinet latches. Not seen is the roller has a wedge block keeping it from moving closer.
Continued theme of not having space. I constantly am using my cars as work tables. I finally got tired and bothered enough to make a portable work table that has wheels for mobility and only has two uprights. Its frame is a big C shape. This allows it to roll under and over trunk when put away. I am modifying an existing table with these new legs. I also added foam to prevent banging bumper. Now I can work without having to spend 20 minutes unpacking everything and then repacking when done.
Last pic is gravity taking affect. I was taking it off my small table after welding. Top plate is 2' x 3' x 3/16. Heavy...
Used the previously cut off legs to slide onto. It didn't hold up well. I did manage to keep all my fingers and toes. So it was a good day.