I've been debating buying a trailer for hauling around my ww2 jeep and my 1970 challenger.
I'm looking for feedback/recommendations on what to get. Open vs closed in, length, etc.
I would also like it to be big enough to haul a b body.
I've been looking at 18-20 footers.
Thanks!
If I ever get one I'd be looking for white not black ( too hot ) and a side door that allows for the car door to open to get out.
What are you towing it with?
If you get an enclosed, consider getting a Vee nose. They tow so much nicer and give you way better mileage.
First thing is to determine towing capacity of your tow vehicle. I had an open trailer and a 1500 would tow it just fine but when I decided to upgrade to a 24' enclosed I was close to max towing capacity so I went to a 2500. The open was a 16' and fit my E-body but an 18 or 20' would be much better, the 24' enclosed has plenty or room for an E or B-body.
Both have their advantages. If you want enclosed buy a 24, if you buy a 20 you can squeeze a b-body in but just barely and you'll find it's nice to have extra room for parts or tools once in awhile. The enclosed keeps the car clean of course. I don't like squeezing around the car in an enclosed climbing in and out and tying down the car. If you live in a city you can hide a flatdeck and no one will know it's there to steal. An enclosed is easy to spot by thiefs. A flatdeck tows great and doesn't cut down fuel mileage too much.
Quote from: torredcuda on December 15, 2023, 06:21:07 AMFirst thing is to determine towing capacity of your tow vehicle. I had an open trailer and a 1500 would tow it just fine but when I decided to upgrade to a 24' enclosed I was close to max towing capacity so I went to a 2500. The open was a 16' and fit my E-body but an 18 or 20' would be much better, the 24' enclosed has plenty or room for an E or B-body.
Good point. I have a 2017 Ram 1500.
If you're getting a V nose get one where the top of the nose slopes forward. It's just a little more aerodynamic. Also get the hitch stabilizer arms. I pulled my Challenger to Florida a few years ago without them. If a transport went by me I could feel the trailer starting to sway.
I had an enclosed 20' and was able to fit just about anything. Two things I liked were the floor locks for the tie downs and the double doors above the fender so I could get in and out of cars easily. The front of mine sloped down in the front, so I'm sure that help as mentioned above.
Quote from: erik70rt on December 15, 2023, 08:41:52 AMQuote from: torredcuda on December 15, 2023, 06:21:07 AMFirst thing is to determine towing capacity of your tow vehicle. I had an open trailer and a 1500 would tow it just fine but when I decided to upgrade to a 24' enclosed I was close to max towing capacity so I went to a 2500. The open was a 16' and fit my E-body but an 18 or 20' would be much better, the 24' enclosed has plenty or room for an E or B-body.
Good point. I have a 2017 Ram 1500.
I had a `17 1500 quad cab, 5.7 Hemi, 8 speed, while it probably would have pulled the 24' enclosed I decided to trade it in as it was out of warranty at 75k and got an `18 2500 crew cab, 6.4, 6 speed. I sacrificed ride quality and a big drop in fuel mileage but truck pulls nice.
When looking at enclosed, measure distance from front of car to the opening edge of door and from bottom of door to ground (car door clearing Trailor fender) to find out if you can open it. Friend of mine couldn't find one he liked and had Trailor door custom located.
I have a 20ft open trailer. I would like an enclosed but have a 1/2 ton Ram with 5.7 liter. I have hauled cars with it but also haul 5 ATVs at times. Needless to say, when I haul the ATVs, I have a lot of tie downs to hold them in place. See photo. I'm not sure I could do that with an enclosed trailer as easily as we do drive some off the side of the trailer. Consider everything you will be hauling with it and accessibility when making a decision.
Terry W.
What size enclosed did you go with ?
I also use my enclosed as an extra storage space for a car and/or parts.
I've been hauling with an open flat deck for decades. I've never had any high value cars, so I've never been afraid of the exposure to elements. Its served extra duty as furniture mover, carpet hauler, and float for the kid's sports team during parades.
Wheel bearing and brake maintenance will be the same between open and enclosed. I think most enclosed trailers use torsion suspension. Nearly all open units will be leaf springs. Open may need occasional deck replacement. I've tended to only replace boards as needed and only once replaced the whole deck. A lot of open trailers use single axles brakes. I think most enclosed are dual axle brakes but it may also be optional. Unless you get an open unit specifically built for cars, most don't have tie down points built into the best locations and you ay need to add these where they work best for you. Adding things like winch, tool box, tire mounts are pretty easy on an open unit as you can see all the structure. Adding to an enclosed isn't necessarily more difficult, but you do need to make sure you find the structural members when doing so.
An enclosed unit can double as storage space when not in use. Be mindful not to fill it so full that it becomes a chore to empty when you need to use it. The big box of an enclosed unit makes it more difficult to negotiate tight confines and if you live in a more urban area, parking can be a two person job. Open units are easy to see over and around. I can squeeze mine down the alley, between the garage, utility poles, and fence line to snake into a 10' wide drive. No way I could do that with an enclosed unit.
Go as big as you can afford or your truck can handle. I have an 18' open for local/misc/ parts car hauls and a 28' so it's large enough for my tool box, air compressor, generator, cabinets, work bench, golf cart and the race/show cars.
I picked up a 22' enclosed trailer.
Nice, that will work. A little tight but should work out just fine.
Do any hitch manufactures prefab a Class III receiver for E-bodies? I have not seen any as yet.