So... the Duster FSM and me are having this argument... :tool: :drunk:
My experience with wheel studs has varied amounts of torque depending upon the Vendor. The FSM says 65 ft pounds of torque on the rear drum to wheel studs.
What say you?
More > on the money < less
How much do you use?
65 sounds right. I like to go a little more, but 65 should work. What are you thinking it should be?
well... "Chevyboy" remembers things like 100FP for some of the modern wheels I have delt with. :huh:
I will get a scratch closer to 70 and sleep better. Thank you Sir!
70 sounds good. Some of my work trucks are 150 foot pounds and that big blue international truck I had was 450 foot pounds. :Thud: I would just put a cheater bar on it and then jump on it a few times. I figured I'm 200 pounds and jumping on it should have me close to double. :dunno: They never fell off. :D
Remember that the fasteners' torque rating is based on fastener stretch. The studs on the 60's and 70's cars were not high tensile rated like today. Most modern cars have a torque rating of 100-110 ft.lbs. Our older cars between 65-75 ft.lbs. depending on whether it is a 7/16" or 1/2" stud. It is also a good idea to replace your old studs and lugs if the car has seen a lot of use over the years. The studs and lugs will fatigue a little bit every time you remove and replace a wheel. Just think of how many times the tires have been replaced, rotated. A flat fixed. Brakes repaired etc... As you can see the number of times that the studs and lug nuts are loosened and tightened adds up over time. They are a very inexpensive item to increase the safety of your car. The wheel lug holes also wear out over time. Good idea to inspect the lug nut seat area on your rims. Just like any other fastener, torque is affected a lot by how dirty/rusty the lug/stud is. Is the surface between the drum/rotor face clean ? Lugs dry or lightly greased ? Use a good quality torque wrench, and torque the wheels in a star pattern. NO torque sticks. Throw those away. They only work if they are used on a dedicated air line/source. The user holds the air gun with the same grip each time. In other words, consistency is the only way they can be accurate.
GM always used a 7/16 stud on passenger cars , Mopars used the larger 1/2 stud so there would be a difference in that alone
7/16". 55-65. 1/2". 75-85. 9/16". 95-115. so this would make sense , but that would be Max torque & over torquing can cause more problems than under torquing them if the service manual says 65 I would use that , 70 should be within tolerance
Good thing for Pixie is she got all new drums and rotors for the resto! :tool: They should last a while...
new studs in the axles too ?
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on June 22, 2017, 07:38:35 PM
new studs in the axles too ?
::) no... those are probably 40 years old...
I figured :smile: