I have a want ad looking for a T/A block, and I just had a phone call from Western Canada and the guy is selling a T/A block but says it has a 71 casting date ? Is there such a thing ?
Does anybody have insight on this ?
@ScottSmith_Harms (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/scottsmithharms_164) , @6bblgt (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/6bblgt_211) .....Scott ? Dan ? Should this exist ? He said he would get me pictures... :dunno:
Guess anything's possible but I'd guess negative. 71 vin stamp on a 69 or 70 cast TA block sure
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Any pics Allan that would be good to see
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I've heard they used left over T/A blocks in cars after the fact, but they should have been cast earlier, right? Do you think he's talking about the VIN stamp?
He says T/A is clearly casted in the DS after the part number and 71 is clearly casted on the other side... :dunno: I'm dying to see pictures too ....says he "assumes" it has TA heads on it too, but never removed a valve cover :clueless:
Reading the title of this post, always thought it would be cool to build a yellow 71 T/A just like they had pictures of for advertising! :drooling:
Interesting would like to see!
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He bought the motor out of Indianapolis :dunno:
I haven't ever seen one but would guess that it's a replacement block made after production ended. .02
Interesting that there is still no standard rallye dash or floor shift for automatics mentioned in the '71 ad. That would be a bummer to order up this car new with all the race inspired equipment hung on it, only to jump in and discover you've got a standard dash and column shift. I wonder if a '71 T/A would be allowed to have AC since its a 4bbl instead of a six pack.
As for the original post, I remember seeing a 340 advertised as a '71 T/A block on Indy's craigslist for quite a while, but figured it was misidentified. The ad reran for a long time before someone bit.
I can just imagine showing up at the Dodge dealer in late 70 with a fistful of hard earned cash ready to sit down and order a new 71 T/A after seeing that ad.
The block has TA casted into it, but now he says the casting date is 1-24-69 ....however he says the assembly date is 1971 and the VIN is 1B297839 :dunno:
Quote from: anlauto on November 11, 2018, 08:43:26 AM
The block has TA casted into it, but now he says the casting date is 1-24-69 ....however he says the assembly date is 1971 and the VIN is 1B297839 :dunno:
That was what I was thinking he would say.... :yes:
I've heard they used left over T/A blocks in cars after the fact, but they should have been cast earlier, right?Still a cool engine and it's a real T/A block.
cool engine 8) can he get the assembly numbers off the driver's side front, under the head?
Could it be consider correct for my AAR....by that I mean being a correct T/A block ?
it depends on your mindset as far as the definition of "correct"
340 T/A block * check
cast before your car was assembled * check :rubeyes: I think that's 11*24*69
originally installed in a 1971 vehicle * no
assembled at Windsor in 1971 * no
it's not your original engine - not having that, what IS "correct"?
appears to have been from a '71 Demon
Quote from: 6bblgt on November 11, 2018, 10:57:06 AM
it depends on your mindset as far as the definition of "correct"
340 T/A block * check
cast before your car was assembled * check :rubeyes: I think that's 11*24*69
originally installed in a 1971 vehicle * no
assembled at Windsor in 1971 * no
it's not your original engine - not having that, what IS "correct"?
appears to have been from a '71 Demon
I get 100% what you saying....the wrong motor is still the WRONG motor no matter how you slice it....Same with the "correct date coded motor" crowd....date coded or not it's still the WRONG motor and not the one it's born with....
HOWEVER.....Because the AAR's and T/A's used a unique one year only "TA" block.....I think having at least one of those in the car adds value compared to a regular non-TA block ?
Am I wrong in that thought ? If selling or buying a T/A or AAR, does having a TA block matter ? Opinions everyone....
Quote from: anlauto on November 11, 2018, 10:44:39 AM
Could it be consider correct for my AAR....by that I mean being a correct T/A block ?
The only engine more correct would be the original...
Funny you say 71 Demon, because the guy bought it for his 71 Duster, but now he's not sure he wants to build it because of the TA casting...in his words he'd rather see the TA block back in a TA car.(although it never was in one :looney:)
I know where a local T/A engine is that I was told (by the guy who built it) that it's all complete from pan to carbs and runs great. The current owner is not a guy that gets online so he asked me if I knew anyone that wants to buy it. Most likely in the $10 to $12k range.
I wonder if these 1971 installed 340 T/A blocks were among the last 340s built at Windsor? :dunno:
"340s are done here, build them all"
Not that it matters, but those stamped VIN numbers looks awfully uneven? :thinking:
If it's a warranty replacement block, the VIN numbers would have been stamped at the dealer... When I worked at Dodge dealership garage back in 71, we had 3 or 4 replacement engines that had to have stamped VIN's put on rail for fed regulations before they could be installed... We didn't have a multi-digit stamp holder, so had to stamp each digit out... one mechanic would use a lineup bar, and another would just eyeball it...
...and for what it's worth, the vehicle would be worth more with an 'extremely close' matching T/A engine... like stated above, the only way to get any closer is to have the engine it shipped with, and that ain't happening...
You should get as much out of it to at least cover the cost putting it in, but if you are talking $10-$15k, the purist buyer probably won't give that to you, even though you've gotten as close as possible...
Most everyone else that loves an e-body will appreciate all the effort to be as correct as possible...
:alan2cents:
Quote from: 750-h2 on November 11, 2018, 11:33:47 AM
Not that it matters, but those stamped VIN numbers looks awfully uneven? :thinking:
That's okay, I'll be re-stamping it anyways with my VIN :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:
Quote from: anlauto on November 11, 2018, 11:10:33 AM
Quote from: 6bblgt on November 11, 2018, 10:57:06 AM
it depends on your mindset as far as the definition of "correct"
340 T/A block * check
cast before your car was assembled * check :rubeyes: I think that's 11*24*69
originally installed in a 1971 vehicle * no
assembled at Windsor in 1971 * no
it's not your original engine - not having that, what IS "correct"?
appears to have been from a '71 Demon
I get 100% what you saying....the wrong motor is still the WRONG motor no matter how you slice it....Same with the "correct date coded motor" crowd....date coded or not it's still the WRONG motor and not the one it's born with....
HOWEVER.....Because the AAR's and T/A's used a unique one year only "TA" block.....I think having at least one of those in the car adds value compared to a regular non-TA block ?
Am I wrong in that thought ? If selling or buying a T/A or AAR, does having a TA block matter ? Opinions everyone....
I would say yes Allen having a T/A block in the T/A or ARR would make a big difference in value and mindset to a owner or potential buyer.
Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on November 11, 2018, 12:01:48 PM
You should get as much out of it to at least cover the cost putting it in, but if you are talking $10-$15k, the purist buyer probably won't give that to you, even though you've gotten as close as possible...
Most everyone else that loves an e-body will appreciate all the effort to be as correct as possible...
:iagree: The value of your car will increase having a real T/A block and heads compared to a stock 340 6 bbl. I don't think it will increase by $10-15k though.
QuoteBecause the AAR's and T/A's used a unique one year only "TA" block.....I think having at least one of those in the car adds value compared to a regular non-TA block? Am I wrong in that thought ? If selling or buying a T/A or AAR, does having a TA block matter ? Opinions everyone....
I hate to say this but I was having this same thought just a few weeks ago. I had my engine pulled from my AAR a month ago and planned to get it rebuilt. I found out that the block has damage and the shop that was going to rebuild it did not feel comfortable they could do it. They suggested a place in Mississauga, ON that might be able to repair the block because I wanted to keep the TA Block even thou it was not numbers matching to my car. I was told it's a warranty replacement block with no VIN number stamped on it. I took it there 2 weeks ago and so far have heard nothing yet so I plan on calling this week to see how it's going. I have my fingers crossed they can repair it. I feel a real TA or AAR should have a TA Block because that's part of the story & history of these cars. It's like having an original Hemi Cuda with a 440. Just dosn't feel right.
Below I have posted a few pictures of the block with damage and you can see what I'm talking about. As Alan will tell you these blocks do not show up much and I'd hate to throw it on the scrap pile.
Freeze damage??
Doesn't look like a professional repair. And pieces missing ?
Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on November 12, 2018, 05:30:31 AM
Freeze damage??
Yup... Seen that a few times even living here in a warmer climate..... I guess people forget it does still get cold at times...
Did you run that block as it is without knowing? Sometimes it's better not to know.
It looks ugly, but if it holds water who cares ?
Looks a bit iffy, hopefully it all works out.
QuoteDid you run that block as it is without knowing? Sometimes it's better not to know.
It was a real surprise to me finding out about this damage. I had the engine rebuilt back in 1989 and nothing was said about damage. Also I have never had any water leaking into the block since I have owned the car. Oil was showing nothing and car never overheated when running. The only reason I decided to get the motor rebuilt was because 2 cylinders were showing very low pressure and the rest were starting down the same road. Also since the rebuild in 1989 I had very low vacuum because of the purple cam that was installed at the time. I have always had poor brakes and I drive with both feet. Sorry for getting off topic. I hope you'll forgive me Alan.
Then I would pressure check it again after machine work and use it.
I didn't think that purple cams are all that wild and most folks are getting 14-15" of vacuum from them.
Having a TA block adds value and increases the ability to sell the car
Purple shaft cams cover a wide range from bone stock to crazy , most other than the stock repro cams have more overlap & low idle vacuum
Quote from: Flatdad on November 09, 2018, 04:20:47 AM
Interesting that there is still no standard rallye dash or floor shift for automatics mentioned in the '71 ad. That would be a bummer to order up this car new with all the race inspired equipment hung on it, only to jump in and discover you've got a standard dash and column shift. I wonder if a '71 T/A would be allowed to have AC since its a 4bbl instead of a six pack.
As for the original post, I remember seeing a 340 advertised as a '71 T/A block on Indy's craigslist for quite a while, but figured it was misidentified. The ad reran for a long time before someone bit.
Always that it was weird for most T/As and AARs to be such low option cars with standard dash clusters when you were obviously wanting a performance model not a low performance Barracuda.
GW340P3463074 (J11X5)
G = 1971 model year
W = Windsor, Ontario engine assembly plant
340 = cu.in.
P = premium fuel
3463 = Wednesday January 20, 1971 engine assembly date
0745 = sequence number (just looks like the "5" is upside down)
J11 = :dunno: Champion spark plug :dunno:
:takealook: Maltese cross & "X" = .010" undersized crankshaft (GG's "white book" doesn't specify rods, mains or both?)
11-24-69 must have been the popular leftover TA block series to use in some 71 Demons.
I have this TA block, same 11-24-69 date, that I removed from a 71 Sassy Grass 340 auto Demon in about 1980
GW340P33110449
For the record this did NOT have TA heads, nor should the one Alan speaks of have, on installation IMHO.