Hey guys,
Just wanted to run something by you before I make the modifications. I've installed a new Pertronix distributor (below). The instructions say to terminate their red wire to the coil positive, terminate the black wire to coil negative and only keep the original positive wire terminated going to the ignition.
He also said to NOT install the resister to remove it and just connect the wires together. The distributor need all 12 volts. It sounds right to me just wanted to get your opinion. Thanks
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d7141700
It's been a bit since I've installed Pertronix, but that sounds right.
Great thanks Cody.
follow the instructions and make you read it a few times cause if you hook it up backwards or using the wrong wire it will fry the Pertronix unit....I know
The full 12 volts is needed for good performance. Apparently the old points system provided full voltage for starting but ran on less than 12 volts to increase points and coil life expectancy.
This is incorrect , the coil feed is generally NOT 12 v , the blue wire to the resistor & ECU is 12v feed , connect the red wire to the blue 12v wire , the pertronics unit will fail using the reduced voltage at the coil
Hi all,
Just for clarification. I can take the wires circled and terminate them together to use the new Pertronix Distributor?
All of the blacks, blue and blue with yellow stripe together?
The two browns and green with red stripe together.
I know you confirmed Cody I just wanted to be sure with showing a picture. Thanks again.
If you are not using a ballast to the coil then the blue wire will connect to the coil + & pertronics unit
So the blue wire from the ballast goes to the voltage regulator. I will then have it go from the voltage regulator to the + of the coil? Correct?
The dark blue 12v feed goes to the ballast , Voltage reg & the ALT field so it can power the Pertronics also , if you are eliminating the ballast you will need to connect the brown wire at the ballast to the blue 12 v feed wire as well or the ign will not have power cranking
Sorry to be a pest but I wanted to be clear.
1. The dark blue wire from the ballast goes to the + on the coil?
2. The 2 brown wires go to the + plus on the coil? QUESTION - I already have a brown wire at the coil. I figured that's why all 3 wires get splices together. One brown into the resister and one out to the coil.
The two browns and green with red stripe wires all get terminated / spliced together.
are you using a ballast ?
No I'm installing a Pertronix billet distributor. So I need to bypass the resistor. I Just want To make sure I terminate the wires correctly. The people at Pertronix said to jump them all to bypass the resister. Thanks
Bypass resistor wire should do it if you are changing to aftermarket coil. If stock coil I think (don't have directions) you need to leave resistor. Can you post your instructions? Thinking of doing this or an HEI conversion. Would like to hear what you think when done.
below are the instructions. They say to terminate both wires on the coil and leave the original wire on the + of the coil. I called Pertronix and they specifically said to do away with the resistor buy crossing them the way I have them circled above. I was just looking for confirmation from here that I'm not going to blow the car up doing this. Thanks
http://support.pertronix.com/file.php?key=zqu5R0S35f1BrksAVkmL7ZKoOrSLnQiM&expires=1549411200&signature=b9cfff96e265cf7d51847fd32b80359985e79f44
Is your coil compatible with removing the resistor?
Are you removing an original Chrysler electronic ignition?
There are 2 ignition power sources that need to be tied together.
Ignition 1 (key on engine running ignition power) looks like yours is a blue wire.
Ignition 2 (starting/starter engaged only ignition power) looks like yours is a brown wire.
Connect the blue and brown wires together. These wires now go to the ignition wire shown on your instruction sheet.
It's best to get a wiring diagram to verify, also the blue wire feeds the alternator.
Here's a couple of drawings best I could find to try and show what's needed.
Top one is electronic ignition stock configuration.
Bottom is modified for resistor bypass, only run your red distributor wire directly to the coil as pertronix shows.
Is your coil compatible with removing the resistor?
Yes I purchased the Flame Thrower II coil with the Pertronix distributor.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-45011/overview/
Are you removing an original Chrysler electronic ignition?
Yes - I'm installing the PerTronix Flame-Thrower Plug and Play Billet Distributor with Ignitor III® Module D7141700
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pnx-d7141700/overview/make/dodge
Thanks Dave
Awhile back I just took out my electronic ignition, removed wiring and resistor from wiring harness. This cleaned up things and helped me see which wires to bypass and connect. Double checked with wiring diagram just to be sure.
Stupid question - Can I leave the resister in place with existing wires and just hook the new distributor up as in the instructions?
What would that hurt?
Don't know the answer. An easy way is to add a jumper wire to existing ballast resistor you can leave the existing wires using these push on clips. I found some in an assortment pack at Oreillys