I couldn't help myself, I bought this 70 Gran Coupé today, I probably overpaid about 4k according to
@cuda hunter (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-hunter_176) 's quick evaluation in another thread, but I don' care, easier for me to find 4k than to find a decent Cuda 70 project. The rust was way less than expected though, looking at pictures I tought it had spread more, but its rusty in weird spots, no bad rust at all under, floor is fine except a hole on the driver side under the parking brake. It needs new trunk floor, extensions and lower quarters.
Need the header panel, maybe, I think I can fix the hood, needs a grille. I got an original driver side fender with it also. Doors, firewall, rockers are fine. rear wheel houses needs some smaller patches.
It's a 2 owner car, hit a tree in -87, been in a barn since, matching numbers, looks like no one has ever changed anything on it.
318, AC, 904, 7 1/4 rear end. (I do have an extra 8 3/4 laying around). It runs and drives, but the brakes are bad.
Seats are great except for driver seat, rear is like new. I read that the original houndtooth cloth is hard to get?
Legendary's seats with that looks different.
Drove all day to see it, gonna pick it up in a few weeks.
Congrats Ken,
Nice projet! :bravo:
Love that interior. Congrats on your new project, always exciting to get something new. :cheers:
:cheers: Fellow gran coup owner, Ya gotta love the overhead console. :congrats:
That's a cool project......... it looks like it may have had the V5X body side moulding with the small pinstripes on either side....... have been looking for that side moulding for my project but it is hard to find.
I used Legendary when I recovered my seats. They came out great.
EXCELLENT project! I've been hearing some good things about the 318 Stroker conversions. A way to keep it all number matched. Nice find.
Quote from: Joegrapes on March 07, 2020, 02:31:57 PM
I used Legendary when I recovered my seats. They came out great.
Damn, thats it! The ones I found looked different. Gotta check again. Thanks!
Edit:
This is the only one I can find, looks different.
https://www.legendaryautointeriors.com/product/70-gran-coupe-cloth-bkt-seat-srm-blk-w-blk-wht-houndstooth/
I'm not sure what to do with it yet. First I gotta fix the front damage, get all lights working, get the brakes working so I can get it tested to get Swedish paperwork and license plates.
I'm not gonna take it completely apart until my Challenger is done. Maybe I just drive it like this for a few years 8)
...that is if I can keep my hands off for that long.
Hellcat engine maybe.... :thinking:
If I change the rear end, is it worth saving the old one (since this is all matching numbers) or is that not an issue for a 318 car?
I am saving the engine/tranny though, if I put another engine in it.
Quote from: mk on March 07, 2020, 02:22:38 PM
That's a cool project......... it looks like it may have had the V5X body side moulding with the small pinstripes on either side....... have been looking for that side moulding for my project but it is hard to find.
Yep, Fender tag says:
M21 - M25 - M31 - R11 - V5X -
Drip Rail Moldings
Body Sill Moldings
Body Belt Moldings
2 Watt AM Radio (Music Master)
Black Molding / Protective Vinyl Insert Body Side (Includes pinstripe on 1970 Barracuda / Cuda)
looks like the spare fender is from a FY1 V5X car also :thinking: & it looks familiar
the drawing/picture on Legendary's site id from the trim catalog - ask them for a sample, I think they have the correct material
Great score !! Legendary's P5X9 seat covers are correct for the production seats like you've got..I've only seen one example of the P5X9 seat with the red welt trim moved to the outer seam like the trim catalogue and that's in the 70 cuda sales brochure.. Makes me wonder where that pre-production interior ended up...
Hey congrats on getting your car. Work at your own pace and you'll do fine! I love that interior color.!
:huh: I had a different FY1 V5X fender
Nice little project :bigthumb:
Well worth the extra 4K. So you found it in Sweden?
I see it has the red piping on the interior panels. That is one awesome interior.
What's the rest of the fender tag?
Cool project. I would love to get a project that haven't been screwed with before
Nice project. Pretty much complete and I like the floors.
Quote from: 6bblgt on March 07, 2020, 03:43:59 PM
looks like the spare fender is from a FY1 V5X car also :thinking: & it looks familiar
the drawing/picture on Legendary's site id from the trim catalog - ask them for a sample, I think they have the correct material
Great. I will ask them. Thanks!
Quote from: cuda hunter on March 07, 2020, 07:26:38 PM
Well worth the extra 4K. So you found it in Sweden?
I see it has the red piping on the interior panels. That is one awesome interior.
What's the rest of the fender tag?
Yes, it comes from the Tennessee area, arrived in Sweden early 2020. I will ask more about it's origin when I pick it up, I will also get all the paperwork then.
Here is the tag.
I need a complete grille if anyone has one for sale and can ship to Los Angeles.
Picked up the Barracuda yesterday, the first cruise thru Stockholm. :D
:cool: :congrats:
Is the a stock mirror for a Gran Coupé?
And is the a good way to remove the grey primer from the original paint?
I tried paint thinner, acetone, some acid for boats, brake cleaner.
Acetone works best, with a lot of rubbing, but some yellow paint comes off also.
I have no idea why they put spots of primer all over the car, no damage under the spots I removed with acetone.
That's the basic standard mirror that all E Bodies received when no optional mirrors were ordered I believe.
Did you try lacquer thinner to remove the primer?
Tery
Lacquer thinner next, then try xylend/xylol.
Both of those will remove yellow paint also so you have to be careful not to rub down too far.
Yep, tried Lacquer thinner, it's known as cellulose thinner in Sweden, acetone worked better.
Xylend/xylol, never heard of that, will try to find it. Thanks!
xylene is the main ingredient in goof off. Goof off is cut with alcohol.
Quote from: cuda hunter on March 22, 2020, 12:59:50 PM
xylene is the main ingredient in goof off. Goof off is cut with alcohol.
One of my specialities! Goofing off. 8)
Got some xylene, it had about the same effect as Lacquer thinner.
But I decided not to try to save the original Yellow now, since I found some used parts in different colors,
and got some new AMD parts, so I have to paint it anyways.
Good choice. :cheers:
Took the damaged front end apart today.
Looking good under the fender, just surface rust, for now I just brush it off and put some rust converter on.
Very cool to work on a car that no one has touched before, finding little things I did not know existed.
That left apron looks like an easy fix. :alan2cents:
Quote from: JS29 on March 29, 2020, 02:05:43 PM
That left apron looks like an easy fix. :alan2cents:
It was, I fixed it already, putting the other fender on this week.
:cool: :cheers:
What type of fasteners are holding on the inner splash shield ? :rubeyes:
Quote from: anlauto on March 29, 2020, 02:50:56 PM
What type of fasteners are holding on the inner splash shield ? :rubeyes:
Screws with a head one size smaller than 3/8, I used a 8mm socket since I did not have a smaller inch one at home.
One larger head screw, but I only removed the 3 upper ones so I could get to the fender bracket bolt.
...with a small washer maybe 3/4" is diameter ?
8MM socket will interchange with a 5/16's socket. A 1/4" is the common next size smaller Hex head. :alan2cents:
Yes, the washer is 3/4".
Correct JS29, it's a 5/16 head, just checked.
Interesting to find that fastener being used on a pretty much untouched 1970 E Body :thinking: Thanks for taking the time to research this and posting pictures :worship: :drinkingbud:
Quote from: anlauto on March 30, 2020, 12:42:49 PM
Interesting to find that fastener being used on a pretty much untouched 1970 E Body :thinking: Thanks for taking the time to research this and posting pictures :worship: :drinkingbud:
That exact same screws were used on the small splash shield behind the headlight bucket also.
Never seen that splash shield on an e-body before, and I had 7 of them before this one.
Redneck resto in progress. Reminds me when I worked on my cars in the late 70's, out in the elements, no clue what I was doing.
Fixed a small rust hole on the cowl with seam sealer! :o
Fixed a broken off bumper bracket bolt, tried to weld a nut on it but nope, hade to drill it out completely and weld in a new nut.
Wonder if I dare to rip the rest of the vinyl off... some spots on the a-pillars and above the quarter seam are very soft....
You know how it works. Everytime you uncover something it gets closer to being shuffled off into the corner undriveable and waiting for the complete gutting process.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on April 04, 2020, 10:25:18 AM
You know how it works. Everytime you uncover something it gets closer to being shuffled off into the corner undriveable and waiting for the complete gutting process.
Yep, very true.
I might not rip off the rest of the vinyl, its gone in the middle, maybe I'll just paint that area with wrinkle paint...
This one I'm gonna try to drive this summer, if possible. As is.
Very hard for me to put that fender on without fixing everything I see under it...
But also, it's kinda fun to cheat a bit now, and just try to get it running. Just wait until I get to the quarters! I already bought a lot of bondo! :haha:
Brakes don't work and the exhaust system needs to be replaced.
Step at a time. :wrenching:
It's sure looking good compared to the before. I'd drive it looking like that as well, as long as it drives safe.
Is this a 7 1/4" axle or a 8 1/4"?
I have a 8 3/4" for it, and I'm also wondering if this axle is worth saving, just because the fact that its the original axle for the car.
Who knows, one day people might start restoring G-codes back to stock...
Looks like a 7 1/4, as for value...what does it weigh ? ;)
Quote from: anlauto on April 09, 2020, 03:14:56 PM
Looks like a 7 1/4, as for value...what does it weigh ? ;)
:haha: :haha: :haha:
Thanks Alan!
I just threw one out a couple of months back.
Save the brakes/backing plates etc... they are all the same. :alan2cents:
More fixes, its an OE resto if I use the damaged left fender to repair the quarter, right? :D
Applied some bondo, and I have never worked with bondo before on a car, need to take a quick YouTube education on that now.
Not sure how to sand this down now.
I take this as practice to see if that kind of bodywork is for me or not.
Thanks for posting this!
I had heard years ago (before any reproduction metal was available and Chrysler no longer had stock) that the front left fender could be used to graft in repairs to the right rear quarter and same for other side swap.
Your pictures clearly confirm this!
Quote from: larry4406 on April 11, 2020, 03:02:18 AM
Thanks for posting this!
I had heard years ago (before any reproduction metal was available and Chrysler no longer had stock) that the front left fender could be used to graft in repairs to the right rear quarter and same for other side swap.
Your pictures clearly confirm this!
Wow, that's cool. Yeah,. the lip is thinner, but the shape seems to be about right. (I have 2 new quarters on the way that I bought from MoparDave, but I'll save those for the real resto later). Just having fun and making it drivable. Now, for the right quarter I don't have a spare fender to use, so we'll see how that turns out. :dunno:
If I didn't see it with my own two eyes, I would have never believed it in a million years... :rubeyes: :worship:
Dose your overhead consolett function properly? Mine was just there for the ride when i got my car. It was a brain teaser, but it's all better now. :D
Quote from: JS29 on April 11, 2020, 08:42:15 AM
Dose your overhead consolett function properly? Mine was just there for the ride when i got my car. It was a brain teaser, but it's all better now. :D
Just read about guide coat, gonna get some. Not that it matters what the Cuda looks like in the end, just for practice.
I have not tried all the electricals yet, my alternator is not working so fixing that is step one, then I can check everything.
I don't even know whats in the overhead console.
Door ajar, low fuel, Fasten seat belts warning light's. and dome light, witch they make new lenses for. :yes:
Quote from: JS29 on April 11, 2020, 09:21:02 AM
Door ajar, low fuel, Fasten seat belts warning light's. and dome light, witch they make new lenses for. :yes:
Cool. Do you know if there is wiring schematics anywhere for the Gran Coupé?
Will this help ?
Thanks! I wonder how the low fuel lamp works, is there a separate sensor for that or does it read the voltage on the fuel meter somehow?
The e-body curse! :o
Major construction flaw.
:crying: :barf:
It's ALWAYS something.... :'(
Done with the driver side quarter fix. What a patchwork. I managed to get it done with the rest of the left fender and a piece of the old rear valance. I took a long piece of the top edge from the fender and borrowed a shrink/stretcher from a friend, managed to make a long piece of the wheelhouse lip that way.
Not perfect but at least not just rust. I'm sure it will hold up over the summer! :D
The body filler is difficult, I don't know how much to apply or how to apply it.
Even when I apply that stuff I can feel that it not straight, I put too much in one spot and too little in another... :dunno:
Looks so easy on YouTube...
Borrowed some sanders, but they seem to be pretty crappy.
tested a bit on the right quarter.
Quote from: soundcontrol on April 18, 2020, 11:09:42 AM
Done with the driver side quarter fix. What a patchwork. I managed to get it done with the rest of the left fender and a piece of the old rear valance. I took a long piece of the top edge from the fender and borrowed a shrink/stretcher from a friend, managed to make a long piece of the wheelhouse lip that way.
I guess if you sell the car and say
"....all original metal" .....you wouldn't be lying... :haha: :haha: :haha: :haha:
Last fix on the exterior, no more rust holes.
Just the drivers side floor to fix.
Found a mummy in the frame!
^^ Don't disturb the corpse.. you'll be cursed! Put it back in the frame and let it ride. ;)
Last rust fix on the list! Check.
Good job! :bigthumb:
Project coming along nicely
Quote from: soundcontrol on April 19, 2020, 12:17:54 PM
Found a mummy in the frame!
LOL, it's not as cool as a mummy, but I found a quarter from the 1960 under my carpet when I removed it. I put it back under the carpet after I restored the interior. I figured it couldn't hurt and might keep the electrical gremlins away. :notsure: So far so good. :fingerscrossed:
Never found the original plastic under the door panels on any e-body I had before. Nice!
Doors look great inside.
Speaking of things never seen before... I've taken allot of E bodies (mostly Challengers) through the years dating back t the 70's & I don't recall ever seeing a bumper in that location.. Wonder if it's a Cuda thing? Or an anomaly...
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on April 25, 2020, 10:29:29 AM
Speaking of things never seen before... I've taken allot of E bodies (mostly Challengers) through the years dating back t the 70's & I don't recall ever seeing a bumper in that location.. Wonder if it's a Cuda thing? Or an anomaly...
Lots of 70 Cudas have them :bigthumb:
The bodyfiller/blocksanding was not easy! Not that it matter on this rat car, but I wanna practice.
I had to put some paint on it because we're expecting rain soon, and I was told not to get the bodyfiller wet.
Thought it looked OK until I painted it :)
I starting to understand why a good paint job is so expensive...
The only part that came out decent was the right lower fender, the left fender was OK in the upper part, just a slight high spot.
That upper fender was very bumpy from old damage, I removed 1/2" of filler from it, and hammered/dolly a lot.
Filling and sanding around the wheelhouses, got bumpy and uneven, I don't know how to make it nice/straight, I shaped a long sanding block
in a rounded form, but that didn't help. Gonna try some more in better weather.
Any tips is appreciated!
Practice! It takes practice, You can masking tape above the body line to guide you. That wheel lip and line are difficult at best, If you can master that, you are ready for about anything. :yes: :bigthumb:
That Cuda body line above the wheel openings is one challenging SOB alright, especially integrating it properly into the fore and aft metal as well.
Compared to what you started with, I think it looks great ! and certaintly serves your purpose :drinkingbud:
It's gonna be a cold a rainy week here, I'll try some more later, sure is good practice!
I got some black marker paint, will use that more on the wheel lips when I'm sanding.
I used it on the fender and it worked fine, but blocking a big surface seems easier than those damn wheel lips.
I fixed up the back of my house with stones so I have a nice surface to work on now,
been doing this in the gravel so far. Tried to get a permit for a car port, but nope. I already exceeded my build area for the property.
So I installed concrete foundations for the pillars for a car port....
Nice!
I used to rip those out and throw them away (in the early 80's).
Think I'm saving this one :D
Had to fix rust right where the rear exhaust hanger is mounted, rusted area overlapped the tank a bit.
First I thought of just lowering the tank and put a piece of steel in between, but lowering it in the rear
opened up the filler tube hole so I played it safe and removed it completely.
Better safe than sorry...
Quote from: soundcontrol on May 09, 2020, 01:03:28 PM
I used to rip those out and throw them away (in the early 80's).
:barf: :barf: :barf:
Quote from: soundcontrol on May 09, 2020, 01:03:28 PM
Nice!
I used to rip those out and throw them away
:o :no: :crying:
Trying to fabricate my own Cuda exhaust tips from some stainless steel I had.
Have no metal brake so I made one out of wood.
The corner gets a bit wider radius than what I see in pictures of the originals, due to my crude wood brake,
but WTH, at no cost, they will be fine.
Thanks
@usraptor (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/usraptor_90) for the measurements!
Ingenious ! :worship: Bend radius looks good, once you get the angle cut into them.... from a distance, no one will know the difference :bigthumb:
Good job! :slapme5:
Weather has been bad, getting better now so I can get stuff done.
Exhaust tips are coming along, made them a bit longer than original just in case I screwed up the angle in the cut.
And I'll wait with welding on the pipes until I see how the system sits.
Some polishing on the stainless and they will do fine.
:cool: :bigthumb:
Great job Soundcontrol. :twothumbsup: :clapping: I'm jealous of our skill. :worship:
AWESOME....good enough for the girls I go out with :clapping: :drinkingbud:
Nice job
:clapping:
Quote from: anlauto on May 23, 2020, 02:44:15 PM
AWESOME....good enough for the girls I go out with :clapping: :drinkingbud:
I know those girls, not that picky :haha: :haha:
Exhaust done!
That was a pain, nothing fits perfect, had to slice and cut a lot to make it fit.
Made my own hangers.
My tips came out OK with some quick polishing, too nice for the that tail panel.
They should fit the valance also, tested it many times.
Great job Ken. :clapping:
Changed the tranny oil and filter in the 904, I just had to paint the pan, could not resist, very mismatched :D
Now on to the brakes. Have none.
A bleeding did it for the front system, but not the rear, suspect a blockage or a leak in the brakeline to the rear axle. Crap!
The red brake warning light, (on the dash) should that turn on if I ground the wire that goes to the brake line split block under the master cylinder?
Or is it somehow connected so I actually need to push the brake also?
Yep, totally blocked hose at the rear axle, never seen that before.
Of course I broke the brake line coming in to the hose while removing, just moved it and it snapped.
I'm gonna replace all the brake lines and hoses now.
Damn!
Why does the Chinese factories that makes part use metric heads on brake parts with US threads?
Drives me nuts, crawling in under the car with a 3/8" wrench that I know fits the brake nippels, only to find out
the new nipples are 10mm head with a UNF thread!
Also the new master cylinder, bolt head for the cap is 13mm instad of 1/2". But the thread is UNC. :verymad:
Gonna see if I can use my original cap for this cylinder.
I guess this is not the brand OE restorers use.
Love those turn signal marker lights on the fenders, one is dead though.
Is the little bulb replaceable? Kinda looks like I can screw it off, but I don't wanna break it...
Yes it will screw off...might want to soak it in some penetrating fluid first ? :dunno:
Since there was rust in both the lower quarters and the lower fenders, I was sure there would be rust on the bottom of the doors and rockers also, but no, very clean.
I steel wired brushed the bottoms, put a rust encapsulator on and 2k epoxy so it will last to the upcoming restoration.
Well done doing it yourself. And great photos I must say :australia:
This is gonna be interesting...I painted a Dodge Dart 38 years ago, did OK, but then I had a paintbox to use...
What colour ?
This is how you save money :cheers:
I got it the way I wanted, black, a satin black that I had, I bought it for the Challenger engine bay.
I realised that to get it nice looking I need a few months of filler and block sanding, no time for that. And no patience either! Summer is here and I need to get it rolling.
I just went over it with 240 paper to get loose surface rust off and then painted it, I did borrow a pro paint gun, very nice.
Got a big run on the driver door, (was playing with the paint amount knob :( ) gonna sand that tomorrow and repaint.
You can see every dent very well now and my filler job looks horrible on the quarters ! :D
But I got my feet wet, and I know how to work it now, good practice. I can always practice more on the quarters later, this black sands off easy.
Trunk lid got painted rust holes in the corners now... Might fix those later if I'm keeping that lid.
It has a pine tree right over the hood and it's getting small new cones, dripping something sticky all over the hood, so I had to put a tarp over it.
Need to move it ASAP. Gonna build a carport there soon with a roof.
@cudamadd (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cudamadd_1177), gonna restore it in a few years, for real.
Itt looks tuff in the satin black.
And some wheels, the "Lipstick on a Pig" concept really works! :yes:
Waiting on a package from Texas now with the headlight bezels, hood inserts, the left side marker light and some emblems from Mopar Dave.
With the wheelhouse mouldings and the rocker trim it will look OK for the summer.
Trying to get the grille fastened. The upper center hole in the header panel if off by more than 1". All other upper holes line up with the nuts in the grille.
(Original Cuda grille, new AMD header panel).
Weird, looks almost like the flange in the header panel is pointing in the wrong direction.
Or is there different versions of header panels and grilles for a 70 Cuda?
2 bottom holes don't line up either, but not this much.
Wow that is off by a mile. Hope someone has an answer for you.
I like the satin look on it.
JUST BEND THE SUPPORT over in the header panel until it lines up with the grill.
Quote from: anlauto on June 22, 2020, 04:05:40 PM
JUST BEND THE SUPPORT over in the header panel until it lines up with the grill.
Thanks Alan, I'll try that, but it's gonna be a heavy bend and the bracket that sits there is straight now, it will be very crooked if I bend it that much near the point it is attached to the header panel. Too bad I gave away my original header panel to a friend (he needed parts of it), I could have measured if that bracket was welded in the wrong place on the AMD piece. (Probably the case) The bottom hole on that bracket is off also, not as much. Or I just leave it as is and move that middle bracket when I restore the car... At least I know it should fit now, and there is not different grille versions.
I know the Barracuda is 2" shorter than the Challenger and the difference is somewhere in the rear...
Question is, does the floor carpet from my Challenger fit in the Barracuda,
front part probably fits, but the rear one?
I see there is a difference if you order a new one.
Could there be a small connecting bracket traversing the 2 mounting holes??
Quote from: soundcontrol on June 23, 2020, 08:15:57 AM
I know the Barracuda is 2" shorter than the Challenger and the difference is somewhere in the rear...
Question is, does the floor carpet from my Challenger fit in the Barracuda,
front part probably fits, but the rear one?
I see there is a difference if you order a new one.
The carpets over lap under the seat....I would think you wouldn't have any issues. Some carpets are sold as "E Body" and some are sold as Cuda or Challenger, might depend on what you have. 1970 is a one year only carpet because of the seat belt location.
Quote from: YellowThumper on June 23, 2020, 08:22:11 AM
Could there be a small connecting bracket traversing the 2 mounting holes??
Could do it that way, but I'll just wait until I restore for real and move the whole bracket so it fits.
It's a good habit to test fit EVERYTHING before paint I see. Found a lot of misfitting panel flanges on the Challenger also.
Set up a time for my registration test now, Monday at 10 am. Before then everything has to work. Still have a few issues.
Test will cost me over 300 bucks, hope it passes, then I get Swedish license plates and can drive it in traffic.
Right now it stalls on idle, took the carb off, think there is a vacuum leak at the foot.
Quote from: soundcontrol on June 23, 2020, 01:22:39 PM
Quote from: YellowThumper on June 23, 2020, 08:22:11 AM
Could there be a small connecting bracket traversing the 2 mounting holes??
Could do it that way, but I'll just wait until I restore for real and move the whole bracket so it fits.
It's a good habit to test fit EVERYTHING before paint I see. Found a lot of misfitting panel flanges on the Challenger also.
Yes for sure.
I found that out the hard way on an early Mustang I restored. Mustang's are a dime a dozen. So I never gave it a thought that the purchase pieces would vary soooo much.
SHOW US THE BARN :notsure:
First real test drive with the car. Walter P Chrysler riding shotgun.
Can't go too far, no plates, no insurance, lots of cops driving around here.
Everything seems to work. Powersteering leaks a little oil, added some "No Leak".
Very noisy without the interior and carpet.
Walter seems to approve.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atp-at205
This is what I used on a power steering leak, no leaks in 2-1/2 years
YES!
Passed both the registration and the safety/smog test. No remarks at all, and they check everything.
Added some E85 to the gas to get the CO 2 level down.
Now I'm getting license plates and can drive it legally.
In Sweden all cars have to be tested once per year, (every other year up to 10 years old, then every year).
But when a car passes 50 YO, it is considered a historical vehicle and no more testing required. (No road tax either)
So first and last time for the Barracuda.
Awesome, similar deal here with old cars. It's getting to be troublesome with Thunderbirds and such as we can't find centrelinks for them anymore and they are always worn out.
Love the video. Reminds me of my car, which is also originally FY1 (Lemon Twist) but now wearing a matte black finish. Cracked dash and and steering wheel also look familiar.
Congrats on the "legal" status. Now go out and enjoy.
Quote from: DeathProofCuda on June 29, 2020, 11:47:04 AM
Love the video. Reminds me of my car, which is also originally FY1 (Lemon Twist) but now wearing a matte black finish. Cracked dash and and steering wheel also look familiar.
Cool, a twin! 8)
Got the plates, went to a small local car meet, gave my wife the first choice...
"I'll take the old one!" She said. 8)
She sounds like a keeper. I don't think I'd get that response from my wife, but then again I wouldn't be very comfortable letting my wife drive mine.
I can't believe how fast you turned this car around...great job :worship: :twothumbsup: :drinkingbud:
Thanks Alan! I wish I had that speed with the Challenger!
Trying to get a time for a front end adjustment before the weekend, wanna make a longer trip and the car is kinda all over the road, toe in is probably way off.
Wasn't it the setting s for a later Mustang people use when adding moderna rims/tires?
If I can't leave it to a shop, is there a way to check that at home and do a rough adjust?
I set toe myself, I use a tape measure. You can measure rim surface to rim surface front and back. You can also go the side of the tire to the side of the tire if you like. I adjust it, back it up, drive forward and check it again.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on July 02, 2020, 07:35:25 AM
I set toe myself, I use a tape measure. You can measure rim surface to rim surface front and back. You can also go the side of the tire to the side of the tire if you like. I adjust it, back it up, drive forward and check it again.
This is where a plumb bob and straight edge is your friend.
Simple frame that leans onto the tire. Mark the bob point on the ground front, back and left, right.
Did mine that way. Helps to lay tape and mark the incremental movements as you go.
Link to thread as there is more info farther down.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=106714.0
Quote from: YellowThumper on July 02, 2020, 01:41:53 PM
Link to thread as there is more info farther down.
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=106714.0
I see I posted in the thread 5 years ago! Totally forgot. :drunk:
If I can set the toe-in myself, and the caster should be as much as allowed be the adjusters, maybe I can measure camber with a bubble level and do it all myself....
They charge me about $150 for an alignment here.
So the 1/16 toe in is the difference between front and back measurements, but does that not change if I measure on the rim or the tire?
Yup: I try for 1/16" at the sidewall of the tire (up as high from the floor as you can get underneath the framerail).
I made this, so I can measure on the outside of the rim. Looks the same in the other end.
Now, I did have a toe in, its about 3mm, 1/16" is 1,58mm, so almost double (2/16")
Is that small amount gonna make my car very sensitive to both steering wheel and tracks in the road?
My camber seems OK on the left, but way over on the right. Just measured with a bubble level.
IMO: No it shouldn't pull that badly due to the toe. How much freeplay does the steering wheel have at rest?
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on July 03, 2020, 05:25:08 PM
IMO: No it shouldn't pull that badly due to the toe. How much freeplay does the steering wheel have at rest?
It's pretty loose, maybe I should try adjusting the steering box. All joints are OK, they check that on the registation test.
Could the camber on the right wheel do that? It several degrees more than the left wheel.
Yes: Tighten the steering box adjuster down and then back about a 1/4 turn and lock it. Yes the camber will do it as well. They must have checked balljoints, tierods and bushings? The car hasn't been driven for years I would expect the rubber to be in bad shape at the least.
Yes, sa Runcharger noted. Try adjusting box. Make adjustments with box centered.
Then test full lock to lock left and right. Be sure they don't start to bind. Worm gear wears most in the center because that gets all the usage. Back off if full theel turns bind.
Camber is definitely a key setting for left or tight pull.
This positive number is what basically forces the wheels back to center. Slightly more on right is typical. Done to counteract the rightward slopes on roads for drainage.
Finally got my care package from Texas! Sent mid May, stuck in customs forever because of Corona they said.
Hood inserts, headlight bezels, left side marker, side emblems from MoparDave.
Kinda looks cool red, not sure if I should paint them black.
If your plan is to repaint the car down the road, I would leave them red for now :twothumbsup:
Looking nice!
Get the wipers to park properly!
Quote from: larry4406 on July 09, 2020, 04:45:35 PM
Looking nice!
Get the wipers to park properly!
Thanks!
Sometimes they park, but mostly they end up there. I hear it's the motor, gotta read up on it.
Still more work to do, fixing the steering and alignment.
Interior fan don't work and no instrument lighting.
Mounting the wheelhouse trim, headlight bezels, emblems, rocker trim.
So, I took my first longer trip with it, went to a small car/coffee meet (since all the organised car meets are cancelled this summer), it held up pretty good, only one of my sealed beam lights gave up. Took a bit too much gas for what it is, about 30% more than normal for a stock 318, so I have to check the timing properly.
On my way home late night we drove by an illegal street race, we stopped and watched, of course they wanted me to race, they thought the car had something bigger than a 318... :)
But I did, my wife begged me to, I lost of course, to a well build Charger with a 440.
But it was fun, have not street raced in way over 30 years.
Great shot!
Decided to test my Corvette Z06 seats that I bought for the Challenger. If I like them I'll use them in the Challenger later.
I really like the stock Hound tooth cloth seats but I can't afford to restore them right now and the driver seat is really bad,
I will restore the stock seats later and try to get some better comfort in them, (more foam on the sides maybe...)
Corvette seats fits well, the difference in track width is only 3/8" so I just offset the bolts on the driver side. I removed the Corvette brackets and
modified them to be equal height to the stock brackets. I also figured out how to connect the electronics and I got it to work with the stock Corvette
computer box thats mounted under the seat. Asked a Corvette specialist and he said it was very difficult without the main Corvette computer, but it wasn't.
6-way seat, very adjustable, now my wife can drive it without 2 pillows and a phone book :)
I'm almost sure that the 6-way tracks for the Corvette seats will fit fine on a stock e-body seat! Might be slightly higher but not much.
The whole setup is very slim.
Also changed the steering wheel, and adjusted the steering box, it got better! Still needs an alignment though.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 16, 2020, 02:41:27 PM
So, I took my first longer trip with it, went to a small car/coffee meet (since all the organised car meets are cancelled this summer), it held up pretty good, only one of my sealed beam lights gave up. Took a bit too much gas for what it is, about 30% more than normal for a stock 318, so I have to check the timing properly.
On my way home late night we drove by an illegal street race, we stopped and watched, of course they wanted me to race, they thought the car had something bigger than a 318... :)
But I did, my wife begged me to, I lost of course, to a well build Charger with a 440.
But it was fun, have not street raced in way over 30 years.
That right there is what it's all about and a great pay-off for all your hard work :worship:
Got the other seat in today, not sure if I like the look of modern seats.
Looks nice but somehow takes away some of the e-body feeling... :dunno:
I like restomods, but just engine and suspension, not looks and interior.
They are great to sit in and drive, sure hope I can somehow modify my stock seats for better comfort later.
Maybe they will grow on me.
I really like stock seats too, those look pretty good though.
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 23, 2020, 02:51:41 PM
Got the other seat in today, not sure if I like the look of modern seats.
Looks nice but somehow takes away some of the e-body feeling... :dunno:
I like restomods, but just engine and suspension, not looks and interior.
They are great to sit in and drive, sure hope I can somehow modify my stock seats for better comfort later.
Maybe they will grow on me.
I like the look of the new seats, but the stock houndstooth fabric is so cool. I can understand why you would want to keep it. I wonder if you could re-cover the new seats in that fabric???
Jason
Quote from: Cudajason on July 24, 2020, 07:40:57 AM
Quote from: soundcontrol on July 23, 2020, 02:51:41 PM
Got the other seat in today, not sure if I like the look of modern seats.
Looks nice but somehow takes away some of the e-body feeling... :dunno:
I like restomods, but just engine and suspension, not looks and interior.
They are great to sit in and drive, sure hope I can somehow modify my stock seats for better comfort later.
Maybe they will grow on me.
I like the look of the new seats, but the stock houndstooth fabric is so cool. I can understand why you would want to keep it. I wonder if you could re-cover the new seats in that fabric???
Jason
Gonna ask a very good shop here what they can do with my stock seats. Gonna be $$$!
Problem is that the Houndtooth fabric is not available anywhere.
Only as complete sets at Legendary. Maybe they can use that set and build up the foam on the sides, for support, not sure if that works.
Trying glue No 5 now on my door panels, this one was expensive, but supposed to work on this type of plastic.
Putting plastic strips on the back as reinforcements.
We'll see tomorow... :notsure:
Cool 80's stickers.
Fixing up some engine stuff for the summer, 318 runs nice but I don't want the smoke cloud on startup so I changed the valve seals without removing the heads, made some special tools and used an air compressor to hold the valves. Old seals were hard as rocks and 4 of them in pieces.
Next it's a new waterpump and electronic ignition.
Quote from: soundcontrol on June 16, 2021, 01:41:01 PM
Fixing up some engine stuff for the summer, 318 runs nice but I don't want the smoke cloud on startup so I changed the valve seals without removing the heads, made some special tools and used an air compressor to hold the valves. Old seals were hard as rocks and 4 of them in pieces.
Next it's a new waterpump and electronic ignition.
Very nice. Will remember that for future endeavors.
Got the Barracuda out of winter storage today, started up fine after 6 months.
Doing some minor fixes over the summer while driving it.
My wife is gonna drive it to work next week.
My Barracuda is leaking water when it rains and the carpet gets all soaked in the back. Located the issue to rust under the vinyl below the rear window, I probably have more rust in the window frame. Not sure if I'm gonna fix it properly or just do my silicone and duct tape quick fix for now....Now that trim is very rare and I don't wanna ruin it, how do I remove it without bending or scratching it?
Quote from: 7E-Bodies on March 07, 2020, 02:41:00 PMEXCELLENT project! I've been hearing some good things about the 318 Stroker conversions. A way to keep it all number matched. Nice find.
I love my stroked 318 with Eddy heads. It's the #'s motor in my 73 Challenger that I've had since 73.
396 cubes, bored .060 with a 4" crank. Approx 400 hp and 400 lb/ft torque. Thinks it's a big block!
Now, my rear window trim, I managed to get half my trim off with my homemade tool. The other half is stuck in the black glue and I can't even get the tool in to the edge. Any tips on that issue? Heat it maybe?
Quote from: soundcontrol on April 14, 2024, 11:27:54 AMNow, my rear window trim, I managed to get half my trim off with my homemade tool. The other half is stuck in the black glue and I can't even get the tool in to the edge. Any tips on that issue? Heat it maybe?
HEAT :pullinghair: