Any suggestions on breaking loose the upper ball joint? My 24" crescent wrench is just popping off. The passenger side came right loose, but the driver's side isn't budging. Heat? Don't want to ruin any heat treating on the A arm.
Try hitting the hex on the sides with a hammer to shock it a little. I have the socket and use an impact gun.
the correct socket is the best way , it will reach down further
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 04, 2020, 12:12:27 PM
the correct socket is the best way , it will reach down further
X2 on the socket! :yes:
If they are still on the car a pipe wrench with cheater bar is effective as well. Of course the proper socket is best.
You may have to go to Snap-on, or similar to find one. I do not think Harbor fright would carry it. :alan2cents:
It's a special 1 59/64 socket. Not hex. They are about $20 online or maybe you can borrow one from the parts store. I'd let you use mine but by time it is shipped back and forth you could own one. I recommend leaving the upper arm in the car so you can get some leverage. I needed 3+ feet of pipe on the breaker bar. I think that you can get a set of complete upper arms with ball joints for $100, which makes it hardly worth the effort.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-10213-64-Inch-Joint-Socket/dp/B003IOEQ1O
If only we all had Summit auto racing 20 minutes away? :pokeeye: :haha:
https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=ball%20joint%20socket
Quote from: Brads70 on April 04, 2020, 01:04:44 PM
If only we all had Summit auto racing 20 minutes away? :pokeeye: :haha:
https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=ball%20joint%20socket
Not 20 minutes but less than 24 hours. Summit in Reno and me on the west coast.
Thanks for the help. I ordered a socket from Summit before dinner and went to get it after I ate. They have curbside pickup at the retail store now. You order by phone and pick it up at the store. No going inside. They bring it out to your car. I opened the trunk and the guy threw the part in. Social distancing maintained. They were all wearing masks and gloves now. Once I got it home, I took it to the barn, opened it and immediately washed my hands.
Good thing I got it. I would have never gotten the ball joint loose without it. Initially, I had the breaker bar and a 3 ft cheater. The bar was deflection something fierce but no budge. I then applied heat to the A arm and the ball joint came loose.
Another crisis averted by the awesome support from e-bodies.org. Thanks.
they can be tough to remove , good that you have summit that close !!
Make sure you use anti sieze when you install the new ones
Quote from: Chryco Psycho on April 04, 2020, 06:57:50 PM
they can be tough to remove , good that you have summit that close !!
Make sure you use anti sieze when you install the new ones
AND make sure you get the thread started properly. It's a shallow pitch thread and it's easy to get in just that wee bit cross-threaded. :cheers:
Glad you got it, I was beginning to wonder if someone had welded it in.
Quote from: Brads70 on April 04, 2020, 07:33:44 PM
Glad you got it, I was beginning to wonder if someone had welded it in.
How often have you fought one to the death to get it removed only to find out it was welded....I remember getting so mad one time :pullinghair: :pullinghair: :pullinghair: never again....most restorations now I just put the new UCA's on :cheers:
We call them parts changers! :yes: