I'm working my way through numerous little leaks. Last weekend I replaced my convertible top pump and cylinders which were all leaking. Thankfully it was a relatively simple and rewarding exercise.
Now I'm contemplating whether to tackle the power steering box leaks myself. I have a fairly significant leak where the steering column connects to the box, running or off. In the service manual it reflects this seal can be replaced with the box in the car and gives a quick paragraph on the replacement. Questions:
1. Is this a complicated job?
2. Pulling the steering column back appears relatively simple. Roll pin to box, 2 bolts dash 3 bolts firewall. Is this a one person job and relatively straightforward?
3. How complicated is it to pull and replace the seal at this point? Are there any references I can review?
I have a secondary leak that isn't as bad and I haven't quite pinpointed the source but I'm getting pooling around the adjustment nut ( last photo), only when engine running. Not ready to get to that yet.
I am considering replacing the whole unit with a firm feel stage 3, but was hoping to defer that for now
Any tips or thoughts appreciated.
personally, I would pull the box and send it to firm feel and let them rebuild the box. That way they can inspect it to see if there is any other issue. (you don't want to keep doing this over again). Then put all back....that should be enough of a satisfaction project alone.
If it's just the column shaft seal it's not a big deal. For the extra 10 minutes to take the box off I would. Pretty easy job to do . I drilled a little hole in the metal part of the seal and used a side hammer with a screw on it to pop it out . A socket to press it in and your done.
I reseal these steering boxes here at our shop and can tell you to make sure you use a little tape on the splines or you will cut your new seal.
Thanks all. I have actually just started this on Monday.
I Had a little trouble getting the pin out of the knuckle but once I went in the direction of the larger hole it popped out fine.
The splines on the box were scored heavy in one spot from someone else's work and it took me a while to break the steering knuckle free while being carefully not to put to much pressure on the unbolted column. I'm a little worried about the fun reattaching but we will see.
I'm at the point of removing the old seal and it is fighting me something fierce. I tried attaching the screws but there is very little room to work with when attached and it's a small area for the drill bit without having it walk. I'm using a seal remover tool with limited success. Have a different tool arriving today. Will give it one last go and if not tue box will come out. At that point will be calling Firm feel and ordering the stage 3. Was hoping to defer a little bit, but if it is now. it is.
I tried the screw and slide hammer trick with no luck and just pried it out with a long thin screw driver. A little tip don't drive the roll pin all the way out of the coupling, just far enough to clear the input shaft. I always struggle to start the pin in such a tight place.
You need to unbolt the column and let it slide as you separate the coupling. If you hammer or pry on the coupling end you may collapse the shaft.
Quote from: mopar jack on December 30, 2021, 12:43:33 PM
You need to unbolt the column and let it slide as you separate the coupling. If you hammer or pry on the coupling end you may collapse the shaft.
Thanks, I did actually do that, the spline was scored near the seal and the end of the knuckle. Had to work the knuckle gently over that area but got it.
And I got the seal out. :banana: :banana: :banana:
I got this tool on Amazon and it worked well just had to be patient with applying pressure as to not break the ends of the tool. Got it snug and then did a couple turns, tight, wait 15 mins, couple more turns, repeat several times and it broke loose.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YF7R6HO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Appreciate the comments and help. Now to put it back together, hoping the scoring on the spline isn't a problem. Will use the tape when applying the seal.
I was able to replace the seal and get everything buttoned back up properly.
No leak on the new seal :banana: But now I see I also have a leak via the larger lock nut that takes a spanner wrench :bricks: Will be going the firm feel replacement route as time allows.
Thanks for the tips, all helpful.
Timely thread. I need to do this on my 79 truck.