I am new to the E body world and am looking at buying a 71 Challenger hardtop 383 3 speed car. It runs and drives but needs some sheet metal work. Overall a solid car. I have no idea the value on these cars and was hoping for some help as to what it might be worth. Any input would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!
HI & Welcome to the site from Panama :wave:
I am not even going to try top guess based on 1 picture but a complete running & driving car is always a good start especially if it is solid :twothumbsup:
Thanks! I completely understand. I have a bunch more pics, just don't know how to post them all at the same time! I am not expecting an end all number, just a ballpark range to give me an idea of what seems fair. Is this a $5000-$10000 car or is that too low to expect?
is it a JH23N1B or JS23N1B car? fender tag?
below where you entered the first pic - there's (more attachments) to add additional pics
VIN is JH23N1B381866
I see $10K+ easily
is the 3-speed manual transmission original to the car? or are "WE" talking 3-speed automatic (I see kick-down linkage)? NO fender tag or broadcast sheet?
:o GG's "white book" shows:
1 Challenger JH23 hardtop (roll-down rear 1/4 windows) 383 4bbl 3-speed manual built to US spec.
2 Challenger JH23 coupe (A93 fixed rear 1/4 windows) 383 4bbl 3-speed manual built to US spec.
I haven't seen a fender tag or broadcast sheet yet, but the owner said it was a 727 3 speed auto.
I thought he meant 3 speed standard as well :o ...a real 1 of 1 :unbelievable:
I would say $10K-$15K if it's not a rot box underneath :alan2cents:
$10k and up depending on rust. Does it have a rallye dash? 4 same size gauge pods including a tachometer? 71's are really cool.
The fender tag and build sheet make a big difference on determining value.
I agree with 15k if it runs and drives and the sheet metal replacement is minimal.
but fender tag or build sheet makes a difference.
Quote from: cuda hunter on March 02, 2020, 09:47:48 AM
The fender tag and build sheet make a big difference on determining value.
I agree with 15k if it runs and drives and the sheet metal replacement is minimal.
but fender tag or build sheet makes a difference.
Agreed.
An "N" Code challenger is a great start. Even if its not an R/T. Looks like its an original EW1 car too.
EW1 wasn't available for '71 on an E-body - GW3 was the "NEW" for '71 "bright white" - ended up being a '71 ONLY color
Quote from: 6bblgt on March 02, 2020, 12:20:00 PM
EW1 wasn't available for '71 on an E-body - GW3 was the "NEW" for '71 "bright white" - ended up being a '71 ONLY color
Good Point! my bad! I sometimes forget the year change.
Sorry for such a delayed update to the thread, but I finally was able to get more pictures of the car. I haven't gotten a fender tag or underbody/frame picture. I did get a lot of others and will post them. He wants $8000 firm.
Here are the rest
I don't believe the under side would look any better. the rot in the roof tells me the structure is bad. :thumbdown: :stop:
Quote from: JS29 on March 31, 2020, 07:32:14 AM
I don't believe the under side would look any better. the rot in the roof tells me the structure is bad. :thumbdown: :stop:
Agreed. That car is going to need a tone of metal work. Too bad. The engine bay looks ok but based on those body pictures as soon as you pull it apart its going to be worse. N code challenger is still cool but it not being an R/T your going to invest the same amount to restore and it will not stack up to R/T value in the end.
Agreed: Straight up pass on that one.
I think it's worth every penny of the asking price, HOWEVER, it is a huge can of worms. You would be better off starting with a more expensive car in better condition. :alan2cents:
$8k plus rear rails, trunk floor, extensions, inner and outer wheelhouses, roof skin, roof structure that you can't buy, inner and outer rockers, front and intermediate floor, Tail panel, dutchman, welder, hours and hours of cutting and welding. Plus what you can't see which is likely the front rails.
I hate it but if you're not experienced with welding and fabricating you are much better off saving another $10k and getting into something better. In Canada it would take $20k in AMD parts to fix this one. It might be okay in the U.S. if you're really experienced with welding and fabbing structure parts but you would still be losing money, just not as much.
.......or spend $200 bucks on a hot safety and drive it... :burnout: :haha: Not every car needs to be restored to perfection :lurking: :D
I won't ride in anything that isn't structually sound though. There's just plaiin better cars out there.
That would make for an expensive parts car!!! :alan2cents:
Sheldon are you assuming the frame rails are rusty or did I miss some photos ?
The roof does scare me too....but check out the cheesy patches in the rear floors...all you need to patch that roof is some fiberglass ! :haha: :haha:
I don't think I've ever cut panels off a car and found it better than I assumed. So I would assume the worst on this one, that kind of salty air, roof rust usually runs right through the whole car. Rockers look totally rotten too. I'd much sooner find a car from the B.C. interior that has winter driven rust behind the wheels than this type of car.
:iagree: 100%
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on March 31, 2020, 11:13:47 AM
I don't think I've ever cut panels off a car and found it better than I assumed.
Ain't that the truth :rofl:
:welcome: from Riverside, CA
Thanks for all the input guys! I am a Technician by trade so mechanical stuff is no problem for me. Some light welding too, but not this amount of it! I didn't think it looked too bad until I saw how bad the roof is. I just want a car so I can drive it so it doesn't need to be restored now, but this much rust is too much for me I think.
In my opinion it could be worth 8k but that is pushing it. Even around here. A lot of these guys are harder on the pricing, but they already have been through it a time or two. But if you are patient and willing to travel you should be able to find a decent project for 10K+ but not a lot less. Deals are out there but few and far between now. Knowing now what I do, I would have waited for a car with a more solid undercarriage and paid a few grand more. It can all be fixed, but the stuff under the car isn't as much fun and you usually need a rack or bracing.
There will be lots of deals coming up in the next few months so I would wait for sure.
:iagree: