I visited 4speedfish today with his new project he is building.
He said to post some pictures up here.
Hes building a B5 blue 440 70' Cuda.
Body has been blasted and epoxy primed already.
The whole back half of the car will require new AMD sheetmetal.
He said he plans to register here soon.
@4speedfish
:wave: Sweet! Tell him to post some more photos. Want to see this Fish come back to life. :veryexcited:
He isn't much of a shutter bug type of person.
I'll let him know we would like to get pictures here on his progress.
Cody, can you correct these pictures?
Here ya go... :bigthumb:
I just thought the car was on a rotisserie :rofl:
Cool it looks like Bob didn't have to replace the firewall.
Hope to see him on here soon as I will start razzing him to get a move on!!!
Maybe go over and do burnouts outside the garage eh? :ohyeah: :Stirring:
Quote from: HP_Cuda on January 09, 2017, 01:02:40 PM
Cool it looks like Bob didn't have to replace the firewall.
Hope to see him on here soon as I will start razzing him to get a move on!!!
Maybe go over and do burnouts outside the garage eh? :ohyeah: :Stirring:
Actually pretty good area to do that where hes at.
That ll get his a$$ in gear. :wrenching:
Still no 4speedfish here as a member.
Bryan, can you :pokeeye: him?
@HPcuda
Need some help getting him here.
That jig welded back half they sell will sure make this an easier job.
I can talk with him again. He is heads down on his resto so...
I think I have his email but will have to dig it up.
Quote from: HP_Cuda on March 01, 2017, 10:51:37 AM
I can talk with him again. He is heads down on his resto so...
I think I have his email but will have to dig it up.
Gotcha covered...PM sent to CODY and you.
Spoke with Bob today.
He says he plans on joining here.
Basically just procrastination or busy.
He had questions on mounting the 4 speed AMD sheet metal hump and how it's centered and weld spots. :whiteflag:
Maybe it's time I give CODY his phone number and let's close the deal on getting him in here. :idea:
The hump should kind of drop into place. The rear ribs on the hump will line up with the ribs in the floor. At least they did with a stock 71 floor I did last year.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on March 04, 2017, 08:10:04 PM
The hump should kind of drop into place. The rear ribs on the hump will line up with the ribs in the floor. At least they did with a stock 71 floor I did last year.
Yeah that's what I told him today.
There's a little piece of metal that sticks out at the very rear that falls into the corragated indentation to line up everything.
Hopefully I'm the only guy that has butchered a stock Chrysler installed floor on a real 71 Cuda lately.
I've seen his floors and if he puts the 4 speed hump where it should be there should be a problem.
He might quickly mock up the 4 speed since he has the cross member in place. Funny thing is the four speed doesn't really move that much side to side than you think but if you have it but up against the inner side you will have trouble.
Bob will get here eventually! Resto thread and all!
Still no sign of Bob here. :deadhorse:
Hey Bob, where you at? Come on 4 Speed fish!!!!
:welcome: Bob!!!
:burnout:
That almost looks like a car!
Bob is finished. Oh wait, this was his first restoration. Purchased this from him in 2010.
Great colours!
The test fit on the AMD fenders went pretty well.The body lines mate up very well.Next is to test fit the grille to see how the headlight buckets match up.The driver side quarter is all screw down for its final mock up.Next is the passenger side that is ready to be screwed down.Then I will mock up the tail panel and trunk lid for the final time.I swear I took the quarters on and off 30 times during this process.Thanks Mike for taking the pictures.Thanks Bruce for showing me how much work I have left.Just Kidding.I hope {Gracie) is still running strong.Great forum Cody thanks for all your great work putting this together.
Looks like the metal work is being done to a high level. :clapping:
A few hours fitting now will save days of anguish and tins of bondo later. Good job, it's looking great.
Quote from: B5fourspeed on February 11, 2018, 08:53:44 AM
The test fit on the AMD fenders went pretty well.The body lines mate up very well.Next is to test fit the grille to see how the headlight buckets match up.The driver side quarter is all screw down for its final mock up.Next is the passenger side that is ready to be screw down.Then I will mock up the tail panel and trunk lid for the final time.I swear I took the quarters on and off 30 times during this process.Thanks Mike for taking the pictures.Thanks Bruce for showing me how much work I have left.Just Kidding.I hope {Gracie) is still running strong.Great forum Cody thanks for all your great work putting this together.
Gracie is doing great. She has a sister now, Gladys. This will be my retirement project in a few years.
Quote from: B5fourspeed on February 11, 2018, 08:53:44 AM
The test fit on the AMD fenders went pretty well.The body lines mate up very well.Next is to test fit the grille to see how the headlight buckets match up.The driver side quarter is all screw down for its final mock up.Next is the passenger side that is ready to be screwed down.Then I will mock up the tail panel and trunk lid for the final time.I swear I took the quarters on and off 30 times during this process.Thanks Mike for taking the pictures.Thanks Bruce for showing me how much work I have left.Just Kidding.I hope {Gracie) is still running strong.Great forum Cody thanks for all your great work putting this together.
You're welcome Bob. :slapme5:
Glad to see you here finally.
Now if I can only get these others I recruited to start coming here and posting. :haha:
Coming along fine I had my last quarter panel replacements off and on at least 15 times fitting everything up.
I am putting the car on a rotisserie next week to weld in the torque boxes.i am debating whether to undercoat or not.The floor pans and trunk floor,center crossmember are all new.What do you guys think of undercoating?I feel I have 3 options: 1. Undercoating 2.Paint body color3.Apply a sealer that would look like a dark gray.The underneath looks so nice right now even before i clean up any of the welds.The car will never see rain.Any thoughts.
If I had to do my car over again (full body color underneath) I would mimic the factory look with the gray and overspray. Something about that look just appeals to me more as my tastes and understanding of these cars has changed.
Never see any rain? Well then there really is only one way to do it if the car is stock. That is primered first with body colour lightly blown in from the sides when the exterior is painted. My FJ5 Challenger was shiny green under there and while it was easy to wipe off it looked too flashy and incorrect for me. I never did undercoat the wheelwells on the orange one though.
Bob and his friend Ed put his Cuda on the rotisserie.
Trial fitted the U.S. Cartool Torque Boxes.
Those took alot of work to get fit right.
Thanks for the help yesterday Mike.
That's coming along nicely.
Moving along really nice...
:banana:
:popcorn:
I agree with Runcharger. If it's never going to see rain, there is no need for undercoating. I undercoated my wheel wells, but left the undercarriage :bigthumb: :bigthumb: in paint.
My holes in the AMD quarter panels for the rear side marker lights are a little low where the socket goes into.The passenger side need to go down about an 1/8 inch and the driver side about a 1/4.For the passenger side I was thinking of using a block of wood and a 5 pound hammer.Any thoughts of a good remedy.I really do not want to slice the drop off but that might be my only solution.
Quote from: B5fourspeed on May 05, 2018, 11:26:40 AM
My holes in the AMD quarter panels for the rear side marker lights are a little low where the socket goes into.The passenger side need to go down about an 1/8 inch and the driver side about a 1/4.For the passenger side I was thinking of using a block of wood and a 5 pound hammer.Any thoughts of a good remedy.I really do not want to slice the drop off but that might be my only solution.
I had the same issue with my passenger side. Either the holes are slightly off on the aftermarket quarters, the extensions are to tall or were installed slightly higher than stock by my body man, After pounding on the corner, top of the extension I never could get it to go down far enough to fit the side marker light socket. So I just left it out. I probably won't be driving at night that much anyway and even if I am who's going to notice that there's no light in it?
I need a good 3/8's of an inch to clear the drop-off.Today I went to fix them and I need more than I thought.It seems like the issue is with the aftermarket drop-offs.I think I am going to slice the drop off and hammer it down.Any other ideas out there.It is just the end where the socket goes.
Ugh: Yes, that's probably the best way to do it.
Unfortunately I think you will have to cut the drop offs as trying to hammer it down won't give you enough room.
I had to cut the bottom off the rear light housing to make mine fit. It's sad the drop offs are not correct in this area because it's a bend area you are dealing with and its structurally sound which makes it hard to modify.
It's a curious situation. My car has the original trunk extensions but I also ran into the same problem. I ended up grinding the lower big ear off the housing where the socket goes. I also loosely assembled the marker assembly before fastening it into the car.
I don't have any pics after but you can see the issue here. Notice the first pic is passenger side and second is drivers. You can clearly see a difference. Both AMD quarters with factory extensions. My car had been wrecked in the RR so I just figured it was something to do with that. And it may be. :notsure:
Shane - your right rear looks like the drop offs were replaced while the drivers side looks stock and it seems there is a slight U shape to it as well. This give more room for the marker housings.
Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 11, 2018, 01:55:48 PM
Shane - your right rear looks like the drop offs were replaced while the drivers side looks stock and it seems there is a slight U shape to it as well. This give more room for the marker housings.
No. They are for sure both factory drop downs.
Well then if that is the case then the AMD quarters are wrong.
I sliced the drop offs then I hit the top of the drop off with a 5 pound hammer and a 4x4.I sliced the drop offs about 8 inches long.I lower the drop off by almost an !/2 inch.They are welded up then I applied some mar glass.The marker lights fit perfect now.You cannot tell by looking at them that something was done.
Way to go man!
How about some pics for future problem seekers...
B
Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 13, 2018, 01:28:13 PM
Way to go man!
How about some pics for future problem seekers...
B
Guess it's time for me to make my rounds out there and visit. :takepicture:
Bob just told me today he's getting ready to spray the interior part of the body.
I must have missed it but what color is the interior going to be?
The interior is black.
Can't wait to see the progress. I was going to inquire if you needed a four speed console in blue before listing it elsewhere.
She is really coming along.
Can't wait to see some color on her!!!
B
I see Paint
Wow she is coming out nice.
I'll have to get down to the shop and take a look at her.
B
Paint!!! :veryexcited: :bravo: :wowzers:
Car is going to look great with the black top :bigthumb:
:iagree:
Lookin good!!!
:banana:
Nice looking car.
More pics!!!
:veryexcited: :veryexcited: :veryexcited:
Very nice job :australia:
Coming along very nicely. Slow but steady and you'll be driving before you know it. :bigthumb:
Looking pretty darn nice....Ever consider hiding the electronic ignition module ? I always put them inside the car.
Alan,
- Where in the interior to locate the box?
- Where do you route the wires through the firewall?
Thanks
Quote from: Banana on June 19, 2020, 03:10:37 PM
Alan,
- Where in the interior to locate the box?
- Where do you route the wires through the firewall?
Thanks
I mounted mine where the A/C drier mounts.
The heater hose tend to hide it. And easy to wire up so close.
Under the battery tray is a decent spot.
Looking good, like the color!
I hide mine under the battery tray.
Quote from: anlauto on June 19, 2020, 01:49:50 PM
Looking pretty darn nice....Ever consider hiding the electronic ignition module ? I always put them inside the car.
Wasn't there a vendor that made a bracket to mount it behind the carb at the back of the engine to be more out of site?
Quote from: Banana on June 19, 2020, 03:10:37 PM
Alan,
- Where in the interior to locate the box?
- Where do you route the wires through the firewall?
Thanks
I bolt the box to the dash frame between the radio and ashtray.
I usually buy the factory "points" harness and convert it myself with the wiring that comes with the electronic conversion kit.
I run the wires taped with the engine harness, then about 6" before the bulkhead I split the harness and run the new wires through the firewall using one of the insulation plug holes right by the gas pedal. Most times you have to slightly enlarge the hole. Then solder on the plug for the box once the wires are inside the car. This method is very hard to notice with the engine installed.
I just did on Monday, I'll see if I can get some pictures later today.
Someone did make a bracket to mount it at the rear of the engine. I think a cooler spot would be better though. Lots of heat trapped under the aircleaner at the back of the engine.
When I install MSD boxes I install them on the bottom side of the battery tray.
Quote from: Shane Kelley on June 22, 2020, 05:42:11 AM
When I install MSD boxes I install them on the bottom side of the battery tray.
Do you paint all the cars red to match ? :rofl:
Thanks.
Beautiful paint job, can only hope mine turns out this nice.
Beautiful car nice job.
Sent from my SM-A715W using Tapatalk
Some new pics to add.....
:woohoo:
This car just looks better and better.
In a couple months the 440 will be going to the machine shop.The K frame is all built out.I would like some input from you motor guys on options with the motor. I would like 500 to 550hp.My budget is about 6 to 8k.Options are stroking, 440 source heads,maybe roller.A must is a cam that will allow good vacuum for power brakes.Thanks
Quote from: B5fourspeed on August 14, 2020, 08:06:50 PM
In a couple months the 440 will be going to the machine shop.The K frame is all built out.I would like some input from you motor guys on options with the motor. I would like 500 to 550hp.My budget is about 6 to 8k.Options are stroking, 440 source heads,maybe roller.A must is a cam that will allow good vacuum for power brakes.Thanks
Dave Timmons: (510) 329-6898
He built my engine and knows Mopars well. Ask him for advice and tell em I sent you.
Quote from: B5fourspeed on August 14, 2020, 08:06:50 PM
In a couple months the 440 will be going to the machine shop.The K frame is all built out.I would like some input from you motor guys on options with the motor. I would like 500 to 550hp.My budget is about 6 to 8k.Options are stroking, 440 source heads,maybe roller.A must is a cam that will allow good vacuum for power brakes.Thanks
512 stroker
440 source heads
RPM dual plane intake
Good 750 DP carb
TTI Headers
Hyd cam
Around the specs of a Comp XE275HL Could use stock rockers to keep cost down and the 1.43 ratio will make the cam a little smaller with more vacuum. Effectively taking he "high lift" out of it. I've seen 2 comp cams 3 weeks apart go flat on a engine run stand. Look around that size cam but from other manufacturers.
Should be around 1HP/CuIn plus some
I would run the trickflow 240 heads and a solid roller camshaft, Edelbrock RPM manifold.
Thank you for the input.
I know I'm late to the party on this but this is my 440 build that put out 556HP at 4850 RPM. (Didn't run any higher RPM due to a severe vibration in the drivetrain)
440 Source 512 stroker crank and rods. (re-balanced by my machine shop)
Diamond custom pistons
Bullet custom hydraulic roller cam: Duration at .050 Intake 234/Exhaust 241, Lobe lift .3677, separation 111, gross valve lift .552, degree intake lobe to 108
Holley Dominator aluminum single plane intake (per recommendation of Chryco)
Pro Maxx (formerly Patriot) aluminum heads
QuickFuel 880 CFM carb
TTI 1 7/8" headers with TTI 3" X pipe exhaust and Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.
My engine builder wants to do a custom grind also.If you have power brakes how is your vacuum.