E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum
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#1
Quote from: 72restocuda on Today at 09:00:39 AMhope you get to sell this part, just wondering if you have the adapter ring availableSorry no ring. When I pulled this base plate I upgraded to a six pack and reused everything.
#2
Cuda & Challenger General Discussion (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: What did you do with your ...
Last post by Brads70 - Today at 12:53:15 PMStopped by the bodyshop today. They are painting it again as they were not happy with the results. Tough colour to paint they said? Maybe get it back atvthe end of next week.
#3
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Power Steering Issue
Last post by 7212Mopar - Today at 12:46:55 PMOverheating issue. The pump is constantly spinning turning the fluid over when driving but you are not turning much. Energy put in that is not used turns into heat. Try new power steering fluid with higher temp rating might help or install a PS cooler.
#4
T
Cuda & Challenger General Discussion (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) / Re: seatbelt laws?!
Last post by tparker - Today at 11:45:09 AM"Why take the risk?"
As mentioned, we all have to determine what is acceptable risks. Our driving in a 70s era car is risky in itself. Drum brakes have issues, brake fade is a real thing. The hood apparently can decapitate us, if I believe what others have said. Apparently later hoods added a "crumple zone" to help deal with this issue. Will the steering wheel collapse on impact? that pin in the steering wheel seems a bit dodgy. Did it get rebuilt correctly if it was rebuilt? Or is it still maintain the same tolerances after 50 years if not rebuilt? Are we relying on our original 50 year old seatbelts? Hows
that stiching? Are we running bias tires? How does the windshield hold up to modern glass technology for shattering? No Air Bags, ABS brakes, traction control, side mirror warning lights and alarms. And there is a myth that older cars are safer in crashes because they use real steel and have more mass, but this has been proven incorrect in collision tests. These cars don't manage the force from a collision. True there is some advantages having a bigger heavier car, but that has limited benefits. Your not gonna win if you hit that tree.
There are risks and we obviously are ok with these risks. Perhaps some of us upgrade the brakes and tires, but probably not much else, safety wise. The vary act of driving has inherent risk. If you ever went for a drive to get a slurpy at 7-11, your putting your life at risk for a slushy. It would suck to get into a violent crash because you wanted a slurpy. But we do things like that all the time because we accept risk. To completely minimize risk we would drive vehicles with ALL the possible protection devices (think race cars with roll cages, helemts, 4 point harnesses, etc) and limit our driving activities. But of course we don't do that.
So at the end of the day, we each take on the risk we are OK with and we may adjust that calculus on a day by day basis. That is why I am ok with driving a motorcycle, but not OK jumping out of a plane. To each his own. I find it fascinating to see how people perceive the same activity differently.
As mentioned, we all have to determine what is acceptable risks. Our driving in a 70s era car is risky in itself. Drum brakes have issues, brake fade is a real thing. The hood apparently can decapitate us, if I believe what others have said. Apparently later hoods added a "crumple zone" to help deal with this issue. Will the steering wheel collapse on impact? that pin in the steering wheel seems a bit dodgy. Did it get rebuilt correctly if it was rebuilt? Or is it still maintain the same tolerances after 50 years if not rebuilt? Are we relying on our original 50 year old seatbelts? Hows
that stiching? Are we running bias tires? How does the windshield hold up to modern glass technology for shattering? No Air Bags, ABS brakes, traction control, side mirror warning lights and alarms. And there is a myth that older cars are safer in crashes because they use real steel and have more mass, but this has been proven incorrect in collision tests. These cars don't manage the force from a collision. True there is some advantages having a bigger heavier car, but that has limited benefits. Your not gonna win if you hit that tree.
There are risks and we obviously are ok with these risks. Perhaps some of us upgrade the brakes and tires, but probably not much else, safety wise. The vary act of driving has inherent risk. If you ever went for a drive to get a slurpy at 7-11, your putting your life at risk for a slushy. It would suck to get into a violent crash because you wanted a slurpy. But we do things like that all the time because we accept risk. To completely minimize risk we would drive vehicles with ALL the possible protection devices (think race cars with roll cages, helemts, 4 point harnesses, etc) and limit our driving activities. But of course we don't do that.
So at the end of the day, we each take on the risk we are OK with and we may adjust that calculus on a day by day basis. That is why I am ok with driving a motorcycle, but not OK jumping out of a plane. To each his own. I find it fascinating to see how people perceive the same activity differently.
#5
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Power Steering Issue
Last post by Mr Cuda - Today at 09:40:39 AM Are there any chances of a mismatch on the pulleys or belt? Wide 3/8 to 5/16, early-late.
A belt not riding high in the pulley V will make that noise when the belt is warm under load. The bottom of the belt should not touch the center bottom of the V.
Proper belt fit will have the belt top at or above the pulley side wall V.
A belt not riding high in the pulley V will make that noise when the belt is warm under load. The bottom of the belt should not touch the center bottom of the V.
Proper belt fit will have the belt top at or above the pulley side wall V.
#6
Does anyone know if Melling has discontinued these?
I contacted them before I posted this but have so far not received an answer and don't suspect I will.
If anyone even has a lead on where to get one, at a normal price, I'd really appreciate it. I have found some but there's NO WAY I'm paying $360 US for a $60 part. Don't need to run a HV pump that bad....
I contacted them before I posted this but have so far not received an answer and don't suspect I will.
If anyone even has a lead on where to get one, at a normal price, I'd really appreciate it. I have found some but there's NO WAY I'm paying $360 US for a $60 part. Don't need to run a HV pump that bad....
#7
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Power Steering Issue
Last post by BluRaySRT - Today at 09:17:03 AMYes... it's the Federal one.
#8
hope you get to sell this part, just wondering if you have the adapter ring available
#9
C
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Re: Power Steering Issue
Last post by Cuda_mark - Today at 08:16:12 AMAre you using the original HEMI federal pump? Just curious.
#10
Wheels, Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering / Power Steering Issue
Last post by BluRaySRT - Today at 07:32:57 AMI have a '71 Cuda with a stock hemi and stock exhaust (no headers). I also added stock power steering a couple of years ago. The problem I'm now experiencing only occurs after the car has been driven more than a half hour with outside temp above 60 degrees. The symptom, as I can best describe it is that the power steering begins to 'chatter' when making even the slightest turn. It is terrible when you are trying to park as it is both annoying and noisy. As you turn the wheel you can feel it resist and then release repeatedly causing what I am calling 'chatter'. Because it seems to be related to heat, I have changed the PS fluid to high temp fluid and I have also added an external cooler that is placed in front of the lower part of the radiator. (All Hemi's came with a PS cooler but it was small and located near the exhaust manifold. I don't think they did much, but the engineers must have thought them necessary. I don't have one as they are now impossible to find, so I found an aftermarket one.) I would like to better diagnose this problem before I start replacing parts. Thanks in advance for your advise and suggestions.