Any sources for OEM replacement drive shafts? Most shops only do the straight tube (without the proper diameter reduction towards the front). Thanks
Would be interesting if there was ...I've never heard of any :thinking:
Quote(without the proper diameter reduction towards the front)
Isn't the reduction at the rear? :thinking:
Quote from: Banana on May 15, 2019, 01:28:33 PM
Any sources for OEM replacement drive shafts? Most shops only do the straight tube (without the proper diameter reduction towards the front). Thanks
Isn't the reduction in diameter toward the rear of the car? The shop I used only did the straight tube also, so I had to find a good used original.
Yea...it's weird...even the driveshafts with two size U joints, the small U joint is at the front where the driveshaft is largest then it reduces to a smaller size at the rear of the car and has the larger U joint :crazytalk:
Never made sense to me either
Here you go...not cheap but they look Awesome. I was quoted $1480 for driveshaft w/part number, date and moog joints, another $450 for NOS assembly line Detroit joint w clips and straps. That's with my core.
They're not "making" them, they are restoring original I believe :alan2cents:
I had a couple guys on Facebook tell me I don't know anything about Mopar driveshafts on the weekend because of the two size U-joint deal. That's why we don't help people as much as we used to.
I would imagine you want to find a used one and pretty it up.
I've never had a car with a big u-joint at the rear. I've only ever had cars with the same small joints on them. If you think about it though, the big joint at the rear does make sense. The tailshaft of the trans is more or less stationary. The rear end moves up and down with suspension travel. It also moves up and down with the throttle. It seems like the rear needs to take more abuse.
That sure "looks" like a new tube in the pic. I doubt you'd get a rusty tube (I'm talking Wisconsin rust! ) to clean up like that.