I had picked up a 92 A518 transmission to put into my 74 Challenger with 360La stroked to 409 engine about 4 years ago. It sat in my garage for those 4 years and who knows how long it had sat before i bought it. So, since its a lot of work to install decided to do the smart thing and do a "soft seal and clutch" overhaul before putting it in.
So far i bought an overhaul kit off of Ebay (A518 46RE 47RE 46RH Raybestos Performance Transmission Rebuild Kit 90-97 Gas from transdeals4u) that has "heavy duty" raybestos clutch frictions and steels. I previously had overhauled my 904 and it runs good, but, i can tell the clutches are beginning to slip in WOT runs.. I guess too much power for it. So i have some experience.
In addition i also bough the TSG A518 book to use as a guide since my 74 Shop Manual doesn't cover A518's. To my dismay i find it a near useless book (cost me $28) as it does not give a logical tear down and rebuild steps. It does have specs for torquing and tolerances, but, not worth it.
As my guide (dont laugh...its great) i did Youtube search for A518 Rebuilds.
Found two threads...one called A518 transmission by TSG which has 4 parts. Its ok, but the guy spends way too much time describing the differences between the A500 and A518 and the RH vs RE styles. He also glosses over the actual tear down and rebuild steps too fast and leaves some steps out. Also, he spends wastes too much time showing you how to measure the drums and such to know which uses a 3, 4, 5, or 6 frictions depending on model. (whats wrong with simply counting the ones in each clutch pack?? )
Second thread is Chrysler 46RE Class. It is lengthy...10 parts each a little over 30 mins long for about 3 hours worth in total. He is very very slow but also extremely detailed. Now mine is a 46rh (hydraulic) but this differs only in the valve body and tail governor (no governor in the RE electronic RE). I decided to use this one, plus a 727 rebuild for the governor. d
One criticism of both threads is they both have you totally disassemble the entire transmission before overhauling and reassembling the transmission. It can be done much simpler without getting parts/bolts etc mixed up if you attack the transmission in 5 sections and disassemble each section and reassemble each section separately. For example the tail overdrive section can be done in its entirety except re-installation to the body all by itself. Another criticism deals with how to reinstall the intermediate shaft. Both of the threads are missing this crucial step, and in fact one (46rE Class has a mistake which would prevent installing it at all).
OK, so so far"
1) i have disassembled the entire transmission and have its parts sitting on a separate desk.
2) I dissembled the tail section, cleaned it, examined for wear (there is none...this transmission is in excellent condition), i probably could have just installed it. But, better safe than sorry. Re-lubed the parts and installed the new Frictions and Steels into the two clutch pack systems in the tail. That 840lb spring was no problem...i made a tool for shop press by welding together 3 large bolts into a tripod and using it. (saw that in the 46RE class).
3) Installed the interim shaft into the tail section assembley, and then with body on floor inserted it into the body after replacing the seals on the rear clutch back piston on the body. No problem doing it this way...installing the interim shaft was left out of both of the youtube tutorials.
4) Built a stand to hold the body and tail assembly upright to facilitate finishing the body installs. (plans to build the stand in the 46RE class on u-tube). Put in new seals into the two outside accumulators and reinstaledl them and the rear band actuator into the main body.
Towomorrow i will continue...
One thing I did when doing this swap, while the case was empty I fitted it in the car & trimmed the case for clearance... It's easier when the trans is 100 lbs lighter...
Also while the case was empty I used a dial indicator to check the runout, had it needed adjustment which it didn't you can't check it when the trans is full....
You indicate on the pump bore in the case & you work through the pan/valve body opening...
You going to add a shift kit while you're in there?
It would sure seem like a missed opportunity to me. :huh:
Quote from: Katfish on November 04, 2019, 04:46:12 PM
You going to add a shift kit while you're in there?
Havent bought one yet, but, plan on it. Anybody have a brand/kit suggestion?
One problem i have is a "check ball".
When i dissembled the main body, after removing the pan, removing the valve body, pulling out the Pump, and then forward and direct clutch drums and assembly i discovered a ball bearing laying in the bottom of the case. Now, i had not done anything to the valve body other than remove the assembly so i do not believe that it came from there. size of the ball is 11/32 same as the single large check ball in the valve body. I have not taken valve body apart to see if its in there.
I know that the overdrive piston contains a check ball in it, and it is still there.
Anybody know where else a "check ball" might belong in the main body besides the valve body. I don't want to start assembling the main body until i figure out where this came from.
Why Me?
Following the directions for reassembly, early in the main body, you install the reverse drum band and actuators. Then comes the reverse drum. Next the thrust washer (instructions says the washer can have one or two tabs depending on model) and then the snap ring. Whoops i cant find the thrust washer !! Pretty sure i didn't lose it as the snap ring was right there with the drum. SO maybe there wasnt one?
Ok, to start with the transmission i'm working on was supposedly out of a 91 or 92 Dodge Van. The date code on the transmission is 1017 which chrysler used a 4 digit 10,000 day calendar system. Best i can decipher is that 1017 would be in around 1991 sept 27'th. So ok its a 1971 transmission. Ok, so this thrust washer would be for a 1971 transmission and based on the hub it fits on would be a 1 tab thrust washer. BUT 91 and up are supposed to be two tabs... A local transmission parts shop Transtar technician says that they only carry parts for 91 and up and that it would be two tab. WHAT THE? Then i went to another transmission parts shop WIT website and they have better blow up of the parts. It would be Part 22254..Description: Washer, A518 Under Snap Ring To Rear Band Drum (1 Tab) 1989-90 (1988 Did Not Use This). But they only show this part as U22254 meaning used but currently unavailable, and there is no new 22254. Now there is a 22254A which reads: Washer, A518/A618/48RE Under Snap Ring To Rear Band Drum (2 Tab) 1991-Up. But two tab will not work as there is only 1 notch in the hub that the washer fits on. SO... once again i got a transmission which has been modified...
Going to go and get the 2 tab thrust washer, with drum in hand see if it fits. If yes, then cut off the 1 tab. If it doesn't fit then im not sure what to do...
I'm sure you triple checked it's not mixed in with other parts?
I have built a few 727s about 20 years back , got burned bad on one & quit doing them as I didn't have enough tools to fully diagnose them anyway as I recall there were some ball brgs in the trans case above the valve body in a couple of the ports but I could be wrong & this may have nothing to do with the 518 :thinking:
Quote from: Katfish on November 05, 2019, 03:37:59 PM
I'm sure you triple checked it's not mixed in with other parts?
Yep...quadruple checked.. Now looking at diagrams for an A500 (mine is a A518) it shows a single tab thrust washer and their avail at WIT. So taking drum with me to parts dealers to look at the 22254 2 tab and a 12254 single tab (for an A500) to see if either can fit.
The single tab thrust washer which is for an A500 is too small in diameter. The guy at Transstar transmission called TSG in my behalf, and they said some of them had no thrust washer, but, i could try the two tab and cut one tab off. So, i tried that but it doesn't fit. There is a snap ring that goes on top of it, and clearance for about .020. The two tab washer is .062 thick, so it wont fit. So, i do believe mine never had one with the drum and shaft support that comes with mine. So, putting together without one.
Next problem is i broke the damn little clasp on the metal sealer ring that goes in a grove in the input shaft. Damn...need to drive another 40 mile round trip to get another...ill get two just in case as its difficult to put in and brittle. Think ill keep the shaft in the cold garage and heat the sealer ring in hot water to expand it before trying to install the next one.
Problem three... Down to installing the last three frictions and steel plates in the direct clutch pack. Found out their missing from the kit. I still have a total of 5 frictions that are .061 thick, but the old ones are .095 thick (tutorial guy confirms their supposed to be .095 thick. So, somebody packaged them wrong ! Spent several hours taking apart all of the other clutch pack assemblies to make sure i didn't put the thick ones in someplace that they shouldn't have been. But, nope, all the rest are correct, so the Kit screwed up, not me.
Damn, but luckily the old clutches look like new, so their going back in. And i will let the kit company have a piece of my mind.
Slow progress...
I applaud your persistence, I was not ready to tackle something this complex and paid $1000 to have mine rebuilt.
Quote from: Katfish on November 06, 2019, 06:22:45 PM
I applaud your persistence, I was not ready to tackle something this complex and paid $1000 to have mine rebuilt.
Thanks, its actually more like stubbornness...and lack of money ! I'm more stubborn than wealthy. It actually isn't all that complex and the youtube tutorials are excellent. It it amazing to me that the entire internals (not including the valve body), is all held together with just a bunch of snap rings. Watch the three tutorials starting with : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Nz_ICxyMW8&t=342s at about the two minute mark. He dissembles the entire main case in about 5 minutes.
What is cool is that all of the instruction manuals do a lot of talking about tolerances and measuring for everything and the availability of selective snap rings and wavies. However, the tutorial i'm using says that as long as your
not modifying the number and type of frictions and have a quality kit with quality frictions, simply ignore most of that...it will be right. Example...on one of the clutch packs you use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the last snap ring and the steel. Allowable tolerance is between .020 to .050... and to change out one or more steels with thinner or thicker (available at the transmission parts stores) to get there. Checking mine it was right at about .035 with no changes.
I'm lucky in that mine appears to be in excellent condition with the bearing surfaces still in excellent shape, so, no need to pound out the old bearings and pound in new ones. Hopefully it will turn out perfect.
Waiting on a new sealing ring which isn't stocked so have to wait on it before i can finish installing the drive gears and pump. So meanwhile will be starting on cleaning the valve body and putting in the shift kit i bought for it. Hey, now i know where the "check ball" that was lying in the case came from. Its the detent ball on the shift lever..must have fallen out when i was removing the valve body. Lucky to have found it.
I bought the TransGO SK TFOD-Jr kit that is a general improver ..for OD Planet Failure, Soft Shifts, Lockup Shudder... so not really a "quick shift". Dealer said this was the most popular kit used by most transmission shops. It was $34.. They also had a "Performance Kit" but it was over $100 and dealer said that it requires a lot of drilling and other mods.."stay away from it unless your an expert". Ok.. Jr kit it is.
I had the performance kit put in mine.
I wonder if they actually did, as it doesn't really have what I would call firm shifts.
Quote from: Katfish on November 10, 2019, 05:01:14 PM
I had the performance kit put in mine.
I wonder if they actually did, as it doesn't really have what I would call firm shifts.
My 66 Charger with 383 4V has a "shift improver kit in it"... dont know what brand. Its normal acceleration shifts are still nice and smooth...but wind it up to 5000 in first and the shift to second gives a nice Quick chirp "
Yesterday finished the rebuild of the transmission itself... Looking good, all air pressure tests are good clutches working, bands apply, End play is at .038 (.035-.085 acceptable range), i fitted the new torque converter and it goes on as it should.
Still have to clean the valve body and install the Transgo SK TFOD Jr kit.
After that will wait till December to install the rebuilt transmission into the car. Have to wait until after Dec 8'th so i can make sure car is available for the annual Christmas Parade...my grandkids love riding in the car with me.
Lots to do till then. Get replacement drive shaft cut to length, get new transmission to radiator lines, trim the case, fabricate (modify) a transmission mount, wire up the switches for overdrive and locking torque converter... etc.
Got the valve body cleaned and installed the Transgo Jr kit. Installed it.
Next i thoroughly cleaned the Pan, and then drilled a drain hole on the back side, and welded on a large nut, but in the drain bolt, and tested with water to insure that it wont leak. So, for whatever reason that i might have to remove the pan in the future, I can drain it first.
Ohh, and i retested the end play with the transmission laying on its side instead of vertical, and this time i measured .051 so that is smack dab in the middle of the allowable .035-.085 range. Re-inserted the torque converter. Will put a bar over it so that it doesnt fall out during maneuvering.
Will be buying new 3/8 inch cooling lines today...found plain roll at Napa for $1.29 ft...so will buy about 10 ft of it.
Today will also be doing some precise measurement of the 904 vs the 518 ( i believe its 7" different, as the 904 is even shorter than the 727). Then will measure the current driveshaft (i think its 51" tip to tip). Then will bring a driveshaft i picked up to a shop to be cut.
Will also study the pictures that 1 wild R/T furnished for cutting the support webbing on the 518...nervous about that and do the cutting.
Then i still have to wait until after Dec 8'th as i need to drive the car in the Christmas parade... my grandkids love it !!
Question or opinions. My A518 overhaul kit came with a Paper based pan gasket...I also have the rubber gasket that came with the filter kit. Which will seal better?
This week, i did the case trimming, and then raised the transmission up into place. To get the required height clearance, i had the rear of the car on jack stands under the axle as high as they would go, then had jack stands under the frame right behind the engine as high as they would go. Not enough clearance with the A518 sitting on the transmission jack which adds a lot of height.
So, i hooked my Engine hoist up to the front bumper supports, chains under the bumper protected by a piece of carpeting and raised her high enough to roll the a518 from the front to behind the engine, and then left if down until it started to "hit". Then had to wiggle it a lot to get it thru the header pipes...close fit.
Then the next obstacle was getting it "square" to the dowel pins... turns out the bell housing was "grazing" the passenger side transmission tunnel pinch weld. Had i known in addvance i would have ground 1/4 inch of pinch weld off... but, i wasnt about to lower it to do that. So, i put long extension up to the pinch weld and pounded it over a little...then i could get the tranny square to slide onto the dowel rods. Once in place there is more clearance there.
I then put in a couple of bolts to hold here and put a block of wood under the rear of the transmission to hold it up while i lowered the transmission jack and pulled it out. SO..The A528In but now to fab my own transmission crossmember, as i dont have $300 to spend on the one advertised. Im retired and have the time to do it for about $20 worth of plate steel.
Two more issues... 1) i had pulled out a 904, and its dust cover wont fit... so going to order a new one i found on ebay for $35 plus shipping.. (IF I CANT FIND ONE AT LKQ pull it yard). I suppose the cover plate for a 727 small block is the one i need as NOONE lists a cover plate for an A518...
2) 904 used a smaller yoke... Katfish is going to ship me one that came out of an A518... thanks man
Lastly, I am going to need some help with "alignment". I.E when i fab up the crossmember with new gm style mount... How do i know how "high" the tail shaft should be. i know i need a "straight shot" back to the rear end u-joint... But...
looking at a picture that Katfish sent me, it looks like the speedo cable needs to be about 1/2 lower than the nearest member bolt... going to see how that works.
Help... bought used yoke for the a518.. It reportedly came out of an a518.. it looks in perfect shape..no worn spots on it at all. Part number on it is 196 om one side and w2 and 434 0n the other. spline count is correct, but when i try to put it on, i can turn it till it engages the splines on output shaft, but then it is tight and only goes on 1/4 or an inch by hand.
Tried putting on lots of grease and trying multiple times i can get it to go on until maybe 1/2 inch worth of spline are engages then it gets super tight. Pounding on it a hammer it will go in another 1/2 inch so that maybe one inch of spline engaged. It will turn with the transmission. Then to get it back out i have to pound on it with hammer. When in i still show nearly 4 inches from back of u-joint arms, to the dust shield on tranny.
One difference i noted from my 904 yoke is this yoke the spline doesn't start until you go in about 1 1/2... Is this right??
Anybody else ever have this problem ?
Spoke with a knowledgeable guy from actionmachineinc.com. He asked if it had laid around for any length of time.. I said it looks great.
He said the problem is probably rust in the splines..if it had sat for any length of time even a small amount of rust or other contamination can stop the yoke from fully going in.
So, i'm soaking it overnight in Carb cleaner solution, and then will take wire brush to it tomorrow. Hoping it works... If not ill be buying a new one...his company has great prices, and you can pick the yoke univeral size from big to small.. As it is the yoke i bought uses 7290 sized, but my driveshafts are the smaller 7260 size... They sell yokes for both.
If the rust solution works, then, im going to have to purchase a Universal that goes from 7290 (2.65 inside length, down to 2.125) down to 7260 size.. (2.65 inside length, down to 2.125) He said the 7260 is good for up to 500 hp, so the smaller should be ok.
I hope...
Didn't work. Even after soaking it overnight in carb cleaning solution, and then washing it out and wire brushing, it still would not slide on. It is interesting that to isolate the problem, i dropped the driveshaft on my 66 Charger with 727, and the yoke DID slide into it, but, fairly tight. HMMM but then i took the driveshaft/yoke from my 66 charger and it slid into the A518 !! Weird. So, i gave up and ordered a new 7260 series yoke from actionmachineinc.com. https://www.actionmachineinc.com/collections/transmission-slip-yoke/products/2603-30?variant=30462696325 great price, and i had them install a new universal joint that is correct for my driveshaft into it as well. including shipping it was about $88.
I came in yesterday, so i put it in (no problem at all), till it bottomed, and then pulled out 1 inch, and measured for my driveshaft length 43" center to center. Brought the driveshaft and the new yoke with u-joint to place that does driveshafts (fleetpride) to be shortened and balanced. They told me it would be around $175... i guess either their expensive or prices have gone up. Will take a couple of days.
I'm going to use the radiator for the fluid cooling, so at Napa store found a connector that will go into my existing radiator, and with slip ferrule, bolt onto the line (after cutting off the flair). Will start on getting those in today...
Slow progress !!
Got the driveshaft back from Fleetpride who did the shortening. It went right in with no problems. Struggled mightily with the 3/8" transmission cooler lines... so much stiffer than the 5/16 that was used with the 904... But, managed to get them both in. On drivers side got it to go right into the radiator using the fitting i got from Napa that uses a slip ferrel instead of the double flair, and on the passenger side made the final connection to radiator using the hose connector at radiator side. Whew...those lines are tough to get in.
Hooked up the gear shift selector using a piece of heavy duty metal that i had like in the pictures, and connected the throttle linkage up. Had wife hold the gas pedal to the floor while i adjusted it. The attachment point for the bell and crank looks about the same as on my 904, but i had to adjust the rod from the bell/crank to the throttle lever to rods to near max to get it to go to near bottoming out with gas pedal floored. Might have to play with it more, but it should be enough to try.
So after checking everything that i could, i went ahead and put in 8 qts of transmission fluid, and started her up. Kept looking for leaks but couldnt find any, so far so good. I then added in another qt and felt that it was enough to try it, because it was cold i knew i couldn't get true dip stick reading. (ps, i have not done anything with the wires for the locking torque convertor, or overdrive other than tie them up...will worry about that later).
Put into drive and felt it engage, and put it into reverse, and that engages, so back into Drive and took it out. OH NO...no shifting at all !! Gave it enough gas to get up to 4,000 rpm, but no shift. Then left off the gas and acted like it was in neutral, engine right down to idle speed even tho i was doing right around 30 mph. Gave some gas, but, no propulsion. Thought, "oh no going to have to push it home", but when speed got down to around 10mph, it went back into first gear. So turned around and brought it home, and left it idle in neutral to check the fluid level...it was only showing a little so put in another quart, and checked, and then a little more, now reading between low and full when hot mark. Checked for leaks but saw none...
So, took it for another short test with more fluid, but, still acting the same... No shifting at all in drive, or manually from first to second, and one up to 3-4000 rpm, i i leave off of the gas, it feels like its going into neutral...once speed down to 10 or under then again first gear seems to reengage...so drove it home and backed it into garage...yep reverse works.
Damn, Damn, damn... i am open to any suggestions !! PS..i had successfully overhauled my 904 before attempting this one...
I put wrong link in 1st time
both mention tailshaft/governor issues
sounds like similar issue to this post... some folks saying TV/Kickdown adjustment
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/1st-gen-ram-all-topics-93/truck-wont-shift-out-1st-258218/
on this 47rh there's a issue with alignment in the tail housing
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/forums/help-97/47rh-wont-shift-out-1st-80987/
Thanks Bullitt... so possible reasons are the valve body is somehow wrong..... I did put a transgo shift improver kit into it, or the tail shaft assembly either the tubes or the governor might be stuck... ... Not sure what to check first, whether to try to do either or both while tranny in car or gulp...pull it back out...
Anybody have any other ideas on what to try ?
I decided to make check the governor first by putting a pressure gauge on the governor port. Book says 0 psi at idle, and then 1 psi or each mile per hour. Ok, that a518 sits in the transmission tunnel very, very tight... So, to even get the pressure gauge into it had to drill a 1" hole in the floor pan opposite the governor pressure port. Did that and used a long hose thru the hole and got the fitting in and with wheels jacked up off the ground started her up.
Yep 0-1 psi at idle, then while in gear brought the speed up to 35 with 4200 rpm and pressure read right around 35... 20 psi at 20 mph etc.
So, glad to me that means the governor isn't stuck and the tubes are in the case correctly or i wouldn't get the pressure reading at the port !! Yippee...I think...so i'm going tomorrow in good daylight, recheck the throttle kick down linkage, but it seems to be good.
If that truly is the case, and ill adjust it in each direction and recheck for shift, but, if still no shift then i'm thinking it has to be in the valve body. That i can remove, disassemble and reassemble while the transmission is still in the car. Sure, am glad i put a drain plug into the pan to make this easier.
Thoughts???? Anybody disagree, or agree ? Any other tests i should do before doing this?
shorten the throttle pressure rod (kick down) first, otherwise yup, valve body...
Ok...couple of days ago, i pulled the valve body. And totally disassembled and reassembled. In doing to i found the spring that is supposed to go behind the governor valve in the 1-2 shift/governor valve passageway, behind the plug in front of the valve. Thank you youtube videos for the Chrysler A518 46re class. Following it step by step on the valve body i found the errant spring!!
Put it back together right, and today reinstalled the valve body.
yippee...its fixed !! :banana:
Looks like i was right with a spring in the wrong place on the 1-2/governor valves .
Just finished getting it back in the car and with wheels jacked up to start, it shifted into second and then into 3rd..
Then took it for a test drive, and i got all three gears, shifting with mid throttle at about 25 into second, and then into third at around 45.. Light throttle earlier shifts. Also, i tested WOT and the kickdown to 2nd is working and so is the kickdown to first if i do it below 30. So i think i have the throttle rod hooked up about right.
A little disappointed in that from dead start, wot is shifting into 2nd at only around 32-35 mph (4,200 rpm). But ill live with that..probably about right. Can always hold it in first with gearshift longer, but, have to be careful no to over rev as it revs quick and my console/floor shifter doesnt have the slap stick.
I haven;t hooked up the wires for the locking torque converter or overdrive yet...(just going to use toggle switches for both) at least initially. Tomorrow for that... I'm tired.. no easy task in my opinion to put that valve body in, getting the parking brake rod hooked up and the clip in for it, then all of that linkage. Will keep you posted on the overdrive when i get it hooked up.
Thanks for the help guys !!
PS...i don't know if i should pat myself on the back for finding and correcting the problem, or kick myself in the ass for putting the spring in wrong to begin with !!! :andyangel:
:woohoo:
Nice, it will all be worth it when your cruising at 70mph and only 2500rpm.
Nice. Glad you got it working.
Ok, got the wires hooked up (temporary) to a toggle switch. Good news and bad news...
First the good, the overdrive works !! Had wheels jacked up off the ground, got car in D up to 50 mph (around 2300-2500 rpm) hit the switch for the overdrive and at first nothing...then about 2 2/12 seconds later overdrive engaged and speedo jumped up to about 65 mph !! Great then let it slow back down to 50 and set the wire for the torque converter, i know it electrically hooked as there was a slight spark at the wheel...but...nothing...No locking torque converter. Tried several times and same results.
(ps, measuring resistance on the torque converter wire to ground and get about 30-33 ohms...just as it should be)
Took car out for a drive, and at 50 mph hit toggle switch...it takes a good 1 to 3 seconds, but, then you can feel it engage, and rpms on road drop to around 1800-2000 at 50, and if i speed up to 65, rpms right around 2500... Disengage the overdrive, and rpms jump back up about 500-600... I left the overdrive switch on, and slowed to around 20 making right hand turn, and hit the gas, and more than enough power to accelerate normally... So, i think i can leave the overdrive engaged from 30 mph up. Results consistent, in that it is a little slow to engage...between 1 to 2+ seconds but it works!! Engaged, it did seem to negate the part throttle kick down...
Wish the locking torque converter would work, but, going to hook up the wire to same switch as overdrive and maybe over time it will start to work as well. If not....oh well... not going to do anything more for a while. Bought the torque converter from Torco in Ca, think ill give them a call and have them check their records as to the locking feature... Maybe they sent the wrong one...
The locking T/C probably does work.. But on jack stands theres no load on the convertor so no slippage....
Hey...thanks...good point...will try again towmorrow. Does it hurt anything to hook both the TC and Overdrive wires to same toggle switch so that they both engage together? Or should they be separate, and if so, TC first then OD... or OD first then TC ?
You want the OD to engage first, then lock-up after.
It's like having a 4.5 speed tranny, my RPMs drop another 200-300 rpm.
So the lock-up eliminates the ~5-7% slippage.
You guys are spot on. On the road the locking torque converter does indeed lock up !!! Drops RPM another 200-300 Rpm !!
Wow... now all i got to do is swap out that shifter (sourced one thanks to a member on here)... Yippee...tired on working on it, and time to start driving it !!
Awesome!!! What gear are you currently running?
3.23 suregrip and 14" wheels... So that A518 will make cruising so much better !