so, I"m going to eventually paint my challenger fc7.
I have some other metal that I need to paint and want to do the same process on that metal as what I'm going to do on the car.
I've sprayed an hvlp in the past, nothing show quality.
My goal is just to get the process started and become familiar with prep, primer and paint. I don't need to cut and buff this metal.
Is there a video or a list of what I should be using?
thanks
I"m open to brands. Who has the correct color? Or the accepted current color?
and single stage or base/ clear?
Its been said PPG is the most accurate.
Not sure what your asking? Is it a pain specific question, or are you asking for vids and info on painting process?
If the latter, there are lots of vids. I used a lot of Kevin Tetz stuff from Eastwood. He has lots of good videos there. I found a couple other ones too. House of Kolor has some specific painting ones that were dated but had good info. The Eastwood ones were probably the best since I could find lots on metal work, prepping, painting, cut and buffing etc. There are probably a hundred other ones.
bare with me guys. I'm a total novice with paint.
I would assume ppg would be the way to go then.
The video Cody made for organisol is great but there isn't a paint video that I can find quite like that. Am I missing a video?
I have read a lot of paint threads over the years and really I am just lost on paint due to the varying degree of opinions.
First thing I would do is decide on a paint line both manufacturer and line as in base/clear, single stage, top line(more expensive) or lower line. You can order most brands online but I prefer to have a store to go to for tinting to get good match etc. I would find a stores in your area and see what brands they carry, a good painty guy can help guide you a lot and you can get all the spec sheets either in the store or online and use their guideline as to prep and paint procedure along with what you can learn here and online. I use PPG as I feel they are a high quality product, good color match and I`ve never had any issues using it although I might try some SPI products as I hear god things about them and they are less expensive but you'll still need to buy the base thru PPG as they don`t mix colors.
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on November 27, 2019, 11:58:38 AM
:iagree:Quote from: JS29 on November 27, 2019, 11:35:15 AM
Its been said PPG is the most accurate.
PPG may be the most OEM accurate but I've also heard that about R-M, Matrix, Valspar, Spies/Hecker and the rest of the well-respected companies. It's the guy in the mixing room that is important. There is no room for mistakes, one gram or so off on the toner or metallic and... :o
The person behind the counter doesn't always know what they are talking about, Ask me how i know! The one mixing the formula makes a big difference. :alan2cents:
When I painted my car I found this site -- Autobodystore.com A lot of good info and is where I got my paint gun/misc items from. I went with PPG bc/cc and really liked it. When I started getting quotes for a paint job - it got scary really quick (sticker shock :unbelievable: ) so I decided to do it myself. It's pretty labor intensive, have a whole new respect for people who do this all the time. I went as far as doing engine bay,trunk and jambs but stopped there and had a pro shoot the body. Learned a lot and enjoyed it. FC7 can be a bit tricky--but that shiny new purple is awfully pretty. Have fun.
I have sprayed many brands, accuracy of color (as mentioned) has more to do with who is mixing vs. the counter guy or the person on the phone you are calling. That said I have established relationships with my local suppliers to get what I want when mixing something for matching purposes, but trust the online stores for the bulk of the materials I use.
Also, when it comes to spraying a brand, the accuracy will also come from the pigments they use. Often the more expensive has more pigmentation and thus creates more of a color to match, but NOT always. FC7 is one of those colors that is often scrutinized, but honestly if the whole car is painted at once it's not as easy to tell unless the brand formula is way off (often a lighter color).
Lastly, there are many who will debate this, but MY opinion is do not spend a lot of money on good paint and then use a shitty clear. I would use more budget on clear and get something that is going to lay down smooth and with ease, with higher quality materials. Oh, one more thing... I may be alone on this but I have guns that ONLY shoot clear. I have 2 cheaper guns to shoot primer, 2 quality guns to shoot basecoat (one is strictly BC, the other is for single stage), and then one gun for clear. Again, my most expensive gun is the clearcoat gun.
Best of luck with your project.
With FC7 I would suggest using a base coat / Clear coat. Single stage is really hard to spray in that color. On the other hand, if you were going black I would suggest using single stage with a custom mix of clear and top coated with clear. I love PPG paint and think it's the best and easiest to spray. Stay away from any "jobber" quality paint for the exterior of your car.
Stick with 1 brand all the way through.
@ Cuda Cody is that from the gun or has there been any color sanding? If from the gun it looks like it laid down really nice....
These are the steps I use...
https://www.e-bodies.org/how-to-paint-a-show-car-step-by-step-guide/
That was after it was all cured and sanded.
Quote from: 1 Wild R/T on November 28, 2019, 11:10:15 AM
@ Cuda Cody is that from the gun or has there been any color sanding? If from the gun it looks like it laid down really nice....
Just talking out loud here.
Earlier posts were talking about the most accurate paint, but a couple things strike me as interesting. I'l start with an analogy. In the guitar world people hunt for the best tone, and often point to some of there favorite guitarist, say like, Eric Clapton with the Blues Breakers. They try to get the same amp, put the same NOS tubes, capacitors, etc in the amp and pay thousands for this sound. Many will even argue with other people if they are using different components or new parts. But when Clapton played his rig, it was all brand NEW. Over 50 years of time has changed the speakers, tubes, and capacitors. Its not the same. Close, but not the same.
So when we talk about paint, why do we care how "accurate" it is? We use a two stage urethane paint today, which does not look like paint from the 70's. We don't have lead in the paint. That is a pain when painting Yellow and some other paints. No doubt the white primer under Yellow is going to have a different look than leaded Yellow. Then what are we trying to be accurate with? A 50 year old paint job that has wear and tear? Maybe lead a hard life or perhaps one that was garaged most of it's life? It's paint will still be aged. Or do we try to be accurate to how it rolled off the assembly line? But is that possible with todays paint, and is that accurate cause that paint job doesn't account for the 50 years of wear?
My thought, is go nuts however you want. But I personally feel a good close paint is good enough. I good mixer should be able to color match any sample regardless of the brand, assuming they have the paint formula and a decent eye. I think the difference in urethane and 50 years will nullify a PGP and another brand as far as color go. Someone mentioned painting with better paint/clear so it goes on better. I would probably agree.
Just my two cents. LOL
Tom