I've noticed a few decent quality used air cooled pincer style 110v spot welders for sale in my area in the classifieds and I have been considering adding one to the tool arsenal.
I'm replacing a full quarter on the challenger right now and it would be nice to spot weld along the trunk edge, the wheel lip, and the bottom pinch weld.
Do any of you guys and gals out there own one of these, and do they work like they should?
I'd hate to use one and wind up with bad spot welds that pop in the future.
I've got no problem with continuing to plug weld but a spot welder would be quick and give a very correct weld.
Opinions?
I have both a 110v and 220v. The 110 is ok but the 220 is much better. Harbor freight has them for a pretty good price. I made a 220 extension cord and just plug it in to the socket for my air compressor.
:iagree: 220 is the way to go.
So is the difference the amount of penetration between 110 and 220, or is it about how long you need to run the tool to get the needed penetration?
220 will do better for penetration oin a spot welder.
If you are using MIG, the 110 is better and gives you more control. You don't want to much penetration in the MIG, but you will need it with a spot welder. Any paint, primer or sealant makes it hard to spot weld.
Does anyone know if you can use weld through primer with a spot welder?
I see Cody posted just as I asked the question; doesn't sound like you can use weld through primer.
It almost sounds like I might as well stick with plug welding and sanding the plugs flush.
With my spot welder, Yes it goes through the weld through primer.
As a wild ass guess, I'd think "weld through" meant just that? But, as was also said, the machine makes a big difference. :cheers:
Quote from: jimynick on December 31, 2019, 10:31:33 PM
As a wild ass guess, I'd think "weld through" meant just that? But, as was also said, the machine makes a big difference. :cheers:
:iagree:
Quote from: Cuda Cody on December 31, 2019, 06:12:43 PM
:iagree: 220 is the way to go.
Looks like we have the same spot welder Cody. Irreplaceable tool doing this type of work.
The hand held 220 one I'm looking at seems to have very sharp "tips" on it, and I'm guessing it would make a fairy small diameter spot weld.
Does anyone have an opinion on whether this type of spot weld would be appropriate for a structural spot weld, such as a quarter panel?
Was looking at YouTube videos of guys using it and the welds seem smaller than the factory originals.
I've heard of guys filing/grinding the ends to make them wider, I haven't done it myself though. I wouldn't trust my safety to a 110 volt spot welder that's for sure.
I've seen prices for those pro spots between 800 and 3500.
Seems I have to call to get a price on a new one.
Suggestions on where to find a good used one?
This ones $300 CDN. Not professional quality I don't imagine but perhaps good enough for a hobbiest?
I generally try to find used, professional quality tools but I think a 220 volt spot welder suitable for autobody use might be a tough find.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/240v-spot-welder/A-p8784720e
The Pro Spot welders are nice to have, but if you're only doing 1 or 2 cars I would suggest saving your money. I like mine, but they are not big enough to get to all the areas that the factory does (partly because we're not building these cars from 100% new panels and often have to patch full panels in a different order than the factory did it) and you will most likely still have to plug weld areas. If money is not an issue, buy a Pro Spot. But if you're trying to restore your own car on a budget, skip the spot welder altogether and use a good 110 mig.
I'm leaning the same way now Cody.
Thanks for all of the input gents!