Hey All..
So far I've been stacking parts in the corner for rebuilding the steering and front suspension (rear is done)
The list
QA1 Crossmember kit
(stocker was booger welded at some point from a snafu and I don't like the look of the strut bar angle.. Looks a hair off vs the other side..
QA1 upper control arms (has new BJ's)
QA1 strut bars
Bergman Auto Craft's Borgeson steering box kit, w/ power steering pump, pulley, lines w/adapters with BAC's (no cut) steering coupler...
P-S-T lower control arm rebuild kit w/greasable shafts and weld up plates
MOOG Lower Ball Joints, Tie Rods..
The Q's
I bought new torsion rod dust boots, clips, ect.. I found a video of a guy destroying several sets of these dust boots trying to get them over the hex, whats the trick or is there a brand that works better than others?
I guess my main concern after watching this guys video is removing the torsion bars.. He had to replace his torsion bar crossmember anyways, so he ended up torching the crossmember.. :rubeyes:
He struggled in my usual level/luck way it goes..
Is there a preferred tool to use on these to remove them that wont break the bank?
I've owned lots of torsion Mopars, but never had to rebuild anything because the stuff was still holding together..
Is there anything else you would recommend while I'm in this deep? :dunno:
Thanks..
I found just loosening the lower control arm pivot nut and it was then easy to pry the lca/tbar to the rear with a pry bar in between the lca and kmember.
Tension must be off the suspension. First back off the lca tbar adjuster bolt.
:iagree: By far this is the best way to remove a torsion bar , just a pry bar required
The TB boots are definitely a bear to get on. I warmed up the rubber with a heat gun which seemed to help. The rest of the process involved lots of elbow and petroleum grease.
Other performance upgrades from Firm Feel to consider:
K-member stiffening plates
Sector support kit
Idler arm roller bearing
I've put all these on my car, but haven't driven it yet so I can't give any meaningful feedback on how they work.
I use a prybar on the lca as well. If the bar is still stuck into the lca when you pry it back you can hold the T-bar with one hand and rattle the lca forward and off the t-bar with the vibration from a hammer. I recycle antique t-bar boots rather than split the new ones when installing them.
PST t-bar boots warmed up slightly and lots of silicon spray. Went on with some effort, not horrible, but did not tear either. They are tough...
I ended up buying the Mancini racing torsion bar tool just in case.
The only stock part that I'll be reusing on the car is the lower control arm and beefing it up with PST reinforcement plates.
Thanks for the prybar tip.
I can't add much that hasn't been covered . With the greaseable shafts for the lower control arms, I turned a groove in the shaft so the grease could get all the way around.
:iagree: I cut a groove in mine too :wrenching:
That's a great idea!
Thanks for the tip. :banana:
Quote from: Brads70 on January 29, 2020, 04:56:32 AM
I can't add much that hasn't been covered . With the greaseable shafts for the lower control arms, I turned a groove in the shaft so the grease could get all the way around.
Brads post brings up another point though..You going to go with poly or rubber bushings?
For me, being a strictly street driven car, I have rubber control arm bushings with poly sway bar bushings.
I don't think poly lca or uca bushings really would add anything positive to my steering...re street.
If I was going to auto-x a lot....well then I would probably go with poly along with a host of other changes.
:dunno: