E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum

Welcome & beautiful Cuda  :wave:
The TQ is a great carb when it runs right & a pain in the ass when it doesn't , I would suggest you get the info on rebuilding it from the factory service manual available on this site , the biggest issue is if the bakelite body is warped , the rest is easy .
Of course we can help you also !

Welcome to the forum!

As mentioned, you can certainly rebuild it yourself, it isn't really that difficult to do a basic gasket change level rebuild (basically just main body gaskets, a new needle & seat set, an accelerator pump, and a couple of O-rings). That said, if you decide to do a complete rebuild or restoration it gets far more complicated like removing the shafts, butterflies, etc. Just depends on your personal mechanical abilities. BTW, I've found VERY few with fuel bowls warped beyond factory specs. Most have a small amount of warpage from new, few were "absalutely flat". A small amount of warpage is not a problem due to the gaskets absorbing some of it along with the bolts holding pressure down on them.

If you want the "works" I can help you with a restoration. Your TQ would cost $399.00 plus shipping and approximately 8-10 weeks. I only do complete restorations and each gets run tested on a mule engine before shipping.

Thanks!
Scott

 :1place:

I've rebuilt better than half a dozen mostly with very good results.. only time I've seen one stick open is when I tightened down the manifold bolts before checking that it won't bind, just lightly snug at first & test before competently tightening. They will need to be re-tightened after a heat cycle. See if the carburetor sticks open when off the car, if so find the culprit before disassembly. I hear the throttle shafts can wear & need bushings installed though I've never encountered this problem.
  The last few I rebuilt I spent a lot of time measuring all of the settings per the instructions that come in the kit going through all of them like 3-times. I was amazed how far off some settings were. Also these adjustments need to be made in order I found out the hard way.
  If you encounter specific issues there's a good FB group  https://www.facebook.com/groups/2347552141947406/
   

Yes: Check for warpage first. Adjustments should be done to factory specs for best results. You will want to use the fsm to set it up. Probably the best street carb ever when they are tuned correctly.

@noah swimley I knew these guys would set you up good. This forum is a great place.

Kevin

The gas pedal does not stick or go down when it happens. The butterfly sometimes sticks a little as well. I've replacedThe choke control switch because it was bad

I could see a mal adjusted choke or choke pull off allowing the fast idle cam to stay engaged ... 
What do you do to get the idle speed back down?

Trust me when I say sticking throttles on e bodies are a bad thing. How I miss this 318 3 speed manual 71 convertible. It was still wide open while upside down.

Kevin

When the. Right foot steps on a T.Q. It has to be one of the best sounds I have never herd   :australia:

To get the idle speed back down I either turn the car off or when I was going down the road it happened, luckily on a straight stretch I would press the brake pedal and then stomp the gas over and over and it finally stopped.

Throttle plates could be touching the gasket below the carb or if you have a thick gasket it could vbe warping the base & binding the shafts or the shafts could be gummed up

 :huh: :huh:

Noah, you say the gas pedal is not affected and does not stick, so the gas pedal returns to normal position even when this happens?

It doesn't seem to make sense to me because the throttle return spring should be on the throttle arm of the carb, and if that doesn't pull back to closed position, the pedal cable won't extend with it, pulling the pedal back to normal height... so gas pedal should be stuck down at least partially...

Have you checked throttle cable and gas pedal pivot for free movement? I've had gas pedal hook on rubber mat before, and also had a rusty pivot pin on the pedal... possible that cable could fray, too...

If main throttle seems to be closing (pedal height comes back to normal every time), then sounds like the secondaries are sticking open, not the primaries...

Welcome to  the site from sunny West Michigan!

What would be better. Get a new carburetor/ or get a correct one for my car, rebuild this one. The engine is original, the carburetor was remanufactured in the 80s and the rest of the car to the best of my knowledge is original. It was my mothers first car.

I would go through what you hve first

I agree, go through this carb and you should be able to get it running properly. Over time I would look for the correct # carb but I wouldn't sweat over it right now.

How do I tell which # is right for the correct carburetor

The number is stamped into the face of the mounting foot on the driver's side rear. Yours should be a 6319s for an automatic, 6318s for a manual trans.

Picture shows an automatic. 6340S if it is a Caluifornia car I think.

Also, Noah...if I remember in some of the messages we've exchanged over the last year or so, didn't you indicate that this car had sat in storage for a lengthy period after your moms passing? Some of the carb heavier hitters in this thread (which I am not more than basic) may want to know if it is just an issue of things having gotten sticky due to non use. Perhaps some varnishing due to deteriorating fuel during storage. Just thinking that tidbit might help.

Kevin

As mentioned, it could be as simple as bad gas from sitting. Varnish and gunk from bad gas is the #1 problem with carburetors, especially with the garbage fuel we have these days.

I looked at the engine bay picture you posted (had my cell phone earlier, on the computer now) and noticed a few things. It looks very original overall but I also see that someone has repainted portions of the engine bay and some of the accessories which were not originally painted when it was new which brings the originality of other items into question.

I can now see that it's an automatic car so you should have a 6319s, or as mentioned by another responder, possibly a 6340 if it was coded N98 and sold new in California (see the special N98 emissions decal attached pic). Your broadcast sheet will have a code for the carburetor which would confirm which one it should have. The carburetor on your car appears visually correct but since I see a small rebuilders decal on the front it's possible that it's been swapped out for a different number.

Definitely not the original carburetor. I would like to get the correct one to have but I plan on putting a edel Brock avs on it and keep the old one.