Hi everyone, I hope I get some input here.
So I received my a833 od trans kit from norms speed shop and I ordered the clutch and flywheels etc so I pretty much have everything except the carpet and the reverse light.
I need some diagrams or any kind of visuals you have on a833 installs or pictures because this looks a bit complicated.
I did a t56 on my 69 camaro and it was pretty easy with the hidraulic clutch and all but I'm sticking with the manual so help out and contribute any way you can
Thanks in advance everyone
Just a couple more questions that may help someone to help you. Do you have the clutch/brake pedal setup and is it in the car? Are you using the oem manual clutch or some kind of hydraulic throwout bearing? Did the car have a stick in it initially, because it's not unknown for an automatic built engine to need help in the pilot bearing arrangement in the crank? If you got a T56 into a Camaro, you should be good to go here, because the similarities are many. There's a thread somewhere, about measuring runout of the crank flange/bellhousing, and torque specs should be easy to find. I'm presuming that you have the trans hump in the car as well as the clutch Z-bar if using and the req'd hardware to bolt it all into the car. Being able to answer some of these questions will help the cognoscenti to answer your further questions. Good luck with your swap! :cheers:
I bought the pilot bearing form auto zone and keeping as much stock as I can
I have the stock pedal set up as well, the trans hump I have to cut
I would use a dial gauge I make sure the belhousing is centered with the crank , you may need offset dowels to correct this ..
I mark the floor around the shifter hump & cut 1" inside of that line to fit the hump , the hump can only sit in one location with the ridges in the floor .
I have done a complete conversion in 1 day from running with an auto trans to driven out with the 4 spd completely installed .
There are several good YouTube videos on bellhousing alignment. This is one of them:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vO9f4FhK13U
I had a lot of trouble getting all the measurement stuff in place until I switched to a dial indicator with a 1" diameter face like what appears in the above video.
If you need offset dowel pins to correct for misalignment, these are a good choice:
https://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/dowels.html
You'll have to weld the clutch shaft bracket to the frame rail as well. :alan2cents:
What Jimmynick was alluding to is that if your engine was originally powering an automatic transmission, the crankshaft pilot hole may not be reamed to the correct size to accept a pilot bushing and the hole also may not be drilled far enough to accept the 4 speed input shaft.
You can purchase a pilot bushing that is centered by the register at the rear of the crankshaft (may be what you purchased, I didn't look it up). However you will have to measure how deep the hole in the crankshaft is drilled. What I do is mock it up with the bellhousing on the engine and measure in with a caliper then compare that to how far the input sticks outfrom the front of the transmission. The safer fix is nipping off the front of the input shaft (gasp!). Some cast cranks have oil passages that you can hit if trying to precision drill them deeper.
Quote from: anlauto on October 20, 2020, 05:15:54 AM
You'll have to weld the clutch shaft bracket to the frame rail as well. :alan2cents:
Does anyone have an approximate measurements on this ? Or a pic of what one looks like on an e body for a visual by chance ?
I knew I had to weld one but I wanted to see what it looked like thanks
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on October 20, 2020, 07:34:24 AM
What Jimmynick was alluding to is that if your engine was originally powering an automatic transmission, the crankshaft pilot hole may not be reamed to the correct size to accept a pilot bushing and the hole also may not be drilled far enough to accept the 4 speed input shaft.
You can purchase a pilot bushing that is centered by the register at the rear of the crankshaft (may be what you purchased, I didn't look it up). However you will have to measure how deep the hole in the crankshaft is drilled. What I do is mock it up with the bellhousing on the engine and measure in with a caliper then compare that to how far the input sticks outfrom the front of the transmission. The safer fix is nipping off the front of the input shaft (gasp!). Some cast cranks have oil passages that you can hit if trying to precision drill them deeper.
Thanks for chiming in, you are correct I did buy the bushing and I had measured the the hole abd I believe it was 2 inches deep I rather not cut so would you know if the two inch is deep enough ?
It's about 2 and a half from memory of I count the space where the shaft would sit in the bearing
I can't measure yet because everything's still boxed abd in opened abd I'm not home
I don't recall the measurement offhand. It's best to measure your particular setup to be sure anyway. I don't have a photo of the frame bracket but there is a notch on the frame that places it. Also there is a large hole in the sheetmetal of the inner fender that will line up with the bolt that goes through this bracket and holds the Z-bar. My explanation isn't the greatest but it will be obvious when you go to install it.
it is hard to screw up , it lines up with the center of the hole in the inner fender , someone will have a picture here .
Just watch when buying anything from Norms Speed Shop.
That is one of the most expensive EBay sellers of Mopar parts. Parts are spray bombed to catch your eye.
Nearly all his items can be found much less expensive with some shopping and patience.
Actually he was the only one that was fair price and his follow up plus customer service was very good
Brewers wanted 4500 for just the accessories, pedals, shifter, tunnel etc plus the trans (a833 with od) I stopped the conversation when he said it was 4500 just in accessories plus trans and shipping lol that got me thinking about the t56 instead
Passon wanted I think 6000 plus I would have gone t56 for that price
Then a t56 I don't recall if it was silver sport wanted 7700 plush shipping while missing a few miscellaneous items.
Norm got me at under 4000 and kept me updated, was honest about the time for rebuild and shared some tech advice that I forgot becaue it's been a mad house with the studying since I have a test coming but the parts are in very good shape
And even told me who to call for shipping so I got it from North Carolina to ca for 220 shipped !
So far I'm really happy plus his feed back on eBay was really good 98% He has two negatives but they are for shipping items late which happens and I think the other was for some cancellation but I had a great experience and even sent pics of the z bracket lovation
I was impressed. I got pretty much everything except the carpet, the reverse light, clutch, he told me what flywheel to get and no drive shaft but he did measure one he had and sent the measurements
Everyone else wanted 6000 and my budget was 5000 or less
I wanted a 5k or less because I have a auto and wanted to keep the auto but the 904 three speed wouldn't work for me in a hemi 6.4 then I tried getting estimates on a500 or 518 and everyone was quoting 2200-2800 plus the parts like the crossmember which they don't even really make becauee it still needs some fabrication, the wiring etc when done easily 3000 plus with shipping and all so might as well pay the difference and go four speed with od and I'm able to use that trans on the hemi 64 I want next year
Quote from: autoxcuda on October 24, 2020, 11:17:15 AM
Just watch when buying anything from Norms Speed Shop.
That is one of the most expensive EBay sellers of Mopar parts. Parts are spray bombed to catch your eye.
Nearly all his items can be found much less expensive with some shopping and patience.
I actually thought he was high until I called brewers, passon, monster, silver star, American power train,I even called mopar Ed but he didn't have an od unit at the time.
I'm sure they're all good in their own way but norms came through and like I said so far so good. I haven't put the unit in though I'm doing about a hour or two every two days so it'll be a while before I actually start driving