OK, depending on the weather, I'm considering installing my front and rear windshield this weekend. Looks fairly straight forward and I have no problem attempting it. Installing the vinyl top, rebuilding the seats, replacing the roof and trunk are all a lot more challenging. Not to mention welding sheet metal. LOL. But after doing a lot of research it seems there are a lot of people on both sides of the butyl tape vs urethane. My thought is urethane is the modern solution but Butyl tape should be fine. The idea that the window flying out at a sudden stop seems quite absurd. But no doubt it isn't nearly as strong as urethane sealer. I am considering using both. Using the tape to get the desired height and then adding a bit of urethane to keep it secure. Seems a reasonable approach
My question is more about the height. Those that favor butyl tape say that urethane doesn't look right inside the car and that the window doesn't sit high enough for the window trim. Does anyone have any thoughts on glass height and the trim. How much tolerance is there? Since people ARE recommending and using urethane, they seem to have the trim fitting properly. If you do it this way are there any mods that much be done? I just want to make sure I don't run into a problem with the trim AFTER I glued everything down. If I am a little high or low, will the trim still be fine?
new cars use urethane and it sticks to the glass because to the black dots called frit. Our old windows were designed for use with the butyl rope. I use 3/8" rope to get the trim height close. Here is good article about the frit.
https://jalopnik.com/heres-what-those-little-dots-are-on-the-edges-of-your-c-1791075995
If you're too high, the trim will be a bitch to put on. :alan2cents:
Install the trim while the urethane is still soft as the trim will give you the proper height, easy peasie :alan2cents:
ooh, second question. Do you center the window all around? If I recall correctly, the little black spacers that came with my butyl tape don't really center the window properly. I'm going off of memory so I might be wrong. I would thing it would want to be centered top and bottom as well as left and right.
I like to follow this procedure:
A friend and I installed a rear glass on one of his cars.First time for both of us.It can get very messy.I called a pro for my Cuda and he charged 150.I supplied the rear glass went into the house came out 45 minutes later and the glass and trim were installed with no clean up.If you hire someone make sure they are schooled on older cars.
I've used the same glass guy since 1986...He's been responsible for EVERY windshield and back glass in EVERY car I've restored...that's 50+ cars... :clapping:
It's a simple process, so trying it yourself is a great plan if you want to gain experience and save a little too along the way :alan2cents: but it's also something that can be left to the experts....I agree, make sure they have plenty of "old car" experience :drinkingbud:
I didn't hesitate to remove and install all of the glass during my restoration. I considered the process straight forward and fairly easy. I installed the rear SE glass by myself but had a helper for the (much) heavier windshield. My thoughts:
- Glass channels clean and properly painted
- Install the trim clips and test fit the trim prior to installing the glass
- Use the proper rubber spacers for the bottom edge of the glass to sit on (I reused the original spacers)
- Test fit the glass - sitting on the rubber blocks, get the gaps even around the glass
- Use at least 4 pieces of painters tape, two for the top edge, one on each side. These will mark the correct location of the glass. I also drew a black line through the center of the tape for even better alignment
- Cut the tape with a razor knife at the outside edge of the channel
- Paint the channel (where the butyl tape touches) with 3M Pinch Weld Primer
- Clean the glass thoroughly where the butyl tape will touch
- Install the butyl tape on the glass all the way to the outside edge. I put the joint on the bottom of the glass. Make a slightly overlapping cut and knead the joint together.
- install the glass using your pieces of tape as guides. Try to place the glass straight down, hitting the butyl tape equally at the same time.
- Push down along the edge of the glass. Wait 30 minutes and push down again.
- Install a bead of 3M Fast Urethane from the top edge of the glass tapered down to the bottom of the glass channel. I used a small plastic squeegee to taper the urethane. Avoid getting any on the trim clips.
- Let the urethane cure and install the trim
- Hit the "That was Easy" button
Awesome things all. Should be easy. I'm going to do a dry run today and make sure the trim fits good. Hopefully tomorrow is sunny and I can get'er done tomorrow. Gonna wait until there is some sun to warm things up abit.
The Butyl comes in a roll with a paper material between coils to prevent it from sticking together. Lay the rope in the channel but leave the paper on the tape. Then you can test fit the window to check the height and also the fit of the chrome trim. If necessary add or remove material to get the height correct and then remove the paper and install the window. Also, a good paint stirring stick, cut in small sections will also work to get the glass up off the bottom channel at the proper height/position. Then you can fill in the channels with urethane and then remove the paint stick pieces after everything is dry. :bigthumb:
Quick question.
By any chance is it possible to remove and replace the stainless trim clips with the windshield glass still installed.
I don't think so. The windshield is inline with the screws which would make it hard to access. And mine wern't that easy to screw in to make it worse. It would depend if you can get a screw driver into the screw.
Maybe someone has a clever solution.
Quote from: tparker on April 26, 2021, 10:06:06 AM
I don't think so.
Thanks, I think I'll tackle that after my car is done.