I think our dash is about ready to go back in. I have the pedal assembly restored and installed The heater box is restored and installed. I was about to bolt down the defrost duct when I realized that when it is in place, it blocks access to the top 2 bolts that attach the pedal assembly bracket to the back of the cowl. Also, I had that bracket too high and the defrost duct would not go into place until I lowered it. Also, the bolts that hang down from that bracket support the steering column if I recall. If memory serves me correctly (and it might not) These bolts pass thru 2 large holes in the bottom of the dash frame. When installing the dash, I think I need to set it in on the 2 side bolts and rock it forward. When I do that, won't I hit an interference with these 2 bolts that hang down???
I guess I am asking for some insight on the right order to put all this back in so that I struggle less.
Thanks
I just put a dash in yesterday by myself...I put the passenger side bolt in, hook the dash on that, then lift it up over the two steering column studs and then put the driver's side bolt in ...and then the four top bolts...
If you don't do it that way, then YES, you are correct...the two studs will have to be remove to "rock it up" in place.
It should be easy breezy with no windshield there :) I was sooo tempted to take my cracked windshield out after struggling with those top middle bolts... :)
Quote from: ledphoot on April 16, 2021, 05:29:39 PM
It should be easy breezy with no windshield there :) I was sooo tempted to take my cracked windshield out after struggling with those top middle bolts... :)
Tell me about it, the car I did yesterday had the windshield in....got a lot of practice at using my no no words... :pullinghair:
Quote from: anlauto on April 16, 2021, 06:27:06 PM
Quote from: ledphoot on April 16, 2021, 05:29:39 PM
It should be easy breezy with no windshield there :) I was sooo tempted to take my cracked windshield out after struggling with those top middle bolts... :)
Tell me about it, the car I did yesterday had the windshield in....got a lot of practice at using my no no words... :pullinghair:
I dropped M-Fer quite a few times the other night ;)
I was so happy when I fell the thread grab on the driver side middle bolt.. Once that one went in the passenger side middle one was much easier.
What about adjusting the vertical position of the slightly L-shaped bracket that connects the pedal assembly to the rear of the cowl. Once teh defrost duct is in place, the bolts for that bracket are not accesible.
You can install the dash like the other guy describes, I don't recommend it. Take the two threaded studs out of the bracket and put them in after the four bolts are installed on the leading edge of the dash. Put a double nut on the stud, it will come right out. This way you can mount the dash frame on the outer lower bolts and roll the dash up the way the installation process was designed and way easier with less chance to damage anything.
Hi I'm restoring a 72 ralley challenger and I need to replace the dash pad , has anyone used the abs backed dash pad sold by classic industries curious about the fit and look. thanks John
I've used one or two ABS framed pads in the past, they're okay, sometimes look a little warpy around the defrost vents....also go easy on the screws for parts like the speaker grill because it's easy to strip out the holes....you get what you pay for... :alan2cents:
If you're building a "driver". maybe, the ABS frame dashes are junk.
This is an ABS framed dash pad....see around the vents :dunno:
:iagree: Total junk! :stop:
When I installed my restored dash and pad the 2 middle screws would not line up.Maybe the thickness of my new pad was stopping it from going all the way up.I thought about what to do for awhile.I came up with the idea of putting bottle jack under the dash frame close to the hump.I put a little piece of cardboard and rag on the top of the jack against the frame.I then jack the frame up with about 3 pumps and the holes lined up perfectly.