The Oil pan leak from hell is back.
383 1970
I did the job three times
First time didn't straighten out the pan or use silicone. Drive 5 miles started leaking
Second time straightened pan used silicone on one side and drove another 5 miles and leaked again
Third time used the right stuff black 90 min rtv on both sides, straightened pan and caked it on drive for 5 miles and all good m. Took out car a few hours later and it started leaking m. Leaked Hal a quart
Made it back home with oil dripping and lost a half a quart again
I'm removing this again. Is there something I'm missing ?
I bought a new chrome made in Taiwan pan that seems sturdy and plan to use.
I went with this option because this is the only one available local and in stock. Color didn't matter since I'm going to paint it with some etch premier
Is there anything else that could make the oil pan leave?
Anything with the PCV system I should look at?
Torque wrench ? I didn't use one should I ?
It wasn't leaking that bad until I replaced the water pump and added a new oil breathe air filter then suddenly it started leaking but I don't know if it was because of the filter since it just started leaking afterwards
Help before I just remove the motor and put an ls in there lol
Is it the rear main seal, or the oil pan ? Can you see where it's coming from ?
:iagree: You have to know where the leak is coming from. IMO the 383 has a poorly designed rear main seal. Hughes Engines sells a billet aluminum rear main seal retainer that improves on the factory retainer. I installed the kit when I rebuilt my 383.
Every engine builder I've dealt with replaces the factory rear main cap like headejm just mentioned :bigthumb: ....There's a few people making them.
Here's Mancini's version: https://www.manciniracing.com/bilrearmains.html
My oil pan only has one gasket and no tray
I don't see a seal but it's leaking at the front lip under the timing cover
Here's a pic
Oh...I highly recommend one of these gaskets then...they are the best :twothumbsup:
https://www.manciniracing.com/bonepiwitrga.html
Look great but my oil pick up won't go through that
There's a hole in the center
I'm pretty sure it would... :alan2cents:
:iagree: That's the gasket I use and they work great. But like others have said, the big block mopar can leak from the rear main pretty easily.
Hey if it does I'll order it first thing Tuesday but here's the pan I have
I could be wrong but if I put that on how would the lock up go through the center ?
Here's my 383 and the gasket works fine with the pick up.
I'll order it first thing Tuesday
Is there anything else I should look for ? I found oil on the gear box and on the inner wheel well under the master cylinder
Are you using a pcv system? Breathers alone are not enough. If you are not pulling vacuum through the engine you will have positive crankcase pressure. If that is the case you will never stop the leaks....
Do I need rtv for that gasket ?
Quote from: Purepony on May 30, 2021, 09:07:41 AM
Do I need rtv for that gasket ?
No no....nice clean surfaces. You can run a thin bead of sealer over the cracks at the timing cover and rear main but that's all I would do.
Thank you guys I will order these on Tuesday as soon as they open
Hopefully this finally puts an end to my dilemma
I agree with JonH about confirming your PCV system is functioning properly. :yes:
I have a breather on the pass side and a pcv valve on the driver
Anything i can do to verify it's working as it should ?
Sorry bad pic
I've just used RTV and put it on semi thick... I'll put the pan in place and snug it up just to the point it starts to ooze out all around evenly. Then I wait about 30 minutes from that point then torque it all down. I'll let it sit for a solid day or so before doing anything and I seem to have a flawless track record with it.
Oem to aftermarket pans, it's seemed it's worked out well for me.
I know oil travels down but there's oil on the driver side valve cover, the steering shaf, even some on the master cylinder, and in the crossmember
Any ideas on what' could be happening ?
I drive the cat and park it on idle and only see it come from the oil pan but how would it get up ?
Thanks all
Here's some pics
Well since no one has jumped in...How old is this motor? It is beginning to look like you have a blow by problem. Very hard to try to diagnose from pictures and descriptions. But you have oil in places it shouldn't be. Misting around valve cover openings, drips being blown around by the fan, etc. If your pcv is working and you still have these issues it leads me to believe you have excessive crankcase pressure pushing oil out wherever it can. So is this motor in good condition?
Well I bought the car like this but it was running pretty strong
Should I do a compression test ?
Psi shows 45-55 after warm up
Engines was fine until I swapped the water pump, added new breather and added new belts
IT did leak oil before but but not as bad
Brake Kleen the engine really good, I would highly suggest putting die in the oil and run the motor that way you'll find exactly where it's leaking especially if your chasing a leak on the front of the motor. That's the first thing I do instead of guessing where the leak is and definitely run the windage tray, it's what others are calling a "gasket".
Here's just one kit available.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Leak-Detector-Kit-Durable-Multifunctional-Automotive-Air-Conditioning-Repair-Tools-LED-UV-Flashlight-Protective-Glasses-Set/552761853?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101058747&&adid=22222222227435907788&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=516631512392&wl4=aud-430887228898:pla-1235108683600&wl5=9015391&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=357426046&wl11=online&wl12=552761853&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAjwtdeFBhBAEiwAKOIy5zIVOZo-88GBseskVViMafvMaMAdZgUIo0OqfIk6MTK6_UvHkDomnBoCRZMQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Time for a 392 Gen III Hemi swap :burnout:
It's the pan here's a pic of a drop leaking out of the pan while cars running
This time I'm doing the timing cover abd new oil pan with that gasket abd I'll see how it goes
Thanks for the suggestion on the kit though, wal mart does have the lowest prices on oil n auto stuff
To test the PCV you should be able to pull out the valve from the cover & it should rattle & running it will have vacuum pulling through it .
You could have a blow by problem putting too much compression pressure into the crankcase , a compression test would be a good Idea .
Most of the leaks near your steering box could be just oil coming out of the dipstick , also cast alum valve covers are hard to seal as the covers do not flex & the heads is never flat .
Thank you for the reply
I'm overreacting because it wasn't leaking like this before
Also I ordered the oil pan alan suggested but they sold me the one without the windage tray
Was that good bad ?
I suggested the oil pan gasket that includes a windage tray as all one unit, these are fairly new to the market (last couple of years) and are the best thing going in my experience, specially since your 383 didn't come with a factory windage tray. If you order something and they said it didn't include the tray, they I think you're onto the wrong part. :alan2cents:
I told the guy I wanted the part you suggested and he asked for what motor because I guess there's one for a stock 383 and a stroker one. I said non stroker and asked if I had a windage tray and I said no so he said I needed that one and it's the same material as the one you suggested
I'll call again tomorrow and tell him to send the windage tray one damn
It should be the right one....maybe..... If you said "no you don't have a windage tray currently" then he will sell you this gasket with the windage tray...you can't used both...maybe, if he knows what's he's selling... :haha:
My plans to wake up at 600 ca time to be the first caller since they open at 900 Michigan time so I can get the one with the windage tray then
They have t shipped the one I purchased since they didn't send an email like they said they would