Based on all my research I am thinking I need to spring the $$$$ for new wiring.
I have a 73 Cuda with rallye gauges.
I have what am assuming to be stock ignition? Attached are some photos. I dont know if my set up is stock so I need your input on this.
Are these the correct harnesses I want?
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu329e
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu1
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu5
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/rl77
There is an option for 70 and 71 engine harnesses that have an electronic ignition, but not for 73. So Im assuming I have picked the correct set up as 73 only has one engine harness set up?
Are the yearone harnesses 100% factory correct? As in totally plug and play ready to go?
I guess I will keep my ammeter set up even though redlines near where I live can can do the volt conversion for $250.
Lastly, what type of wire grease should I buy to ensure the longevity of the new set up?
Thanks in advance.
I also included photos of areas where it doesn't look so good.
I have not done a 73, but all the 70 and 71's that I have used M&H wiring on they have been spot on. Plug and play just and all the same color as the factory manual.
M&H harnesses, which are what Year One sells, are the only way to go.
Best to buy when you can find a YO 30% off code.
One frustrating thing with these is that they are often backordered and you might have to wait several months to get one or more of what you ordered. I used them on my T/A and several harnesses arrived right away, but my tail light harness took 3 months to show up.
Worth the wait, they were perfect!
Sorry I don't know the particulars on '73, other than M&H is a good company and they should be accurate for what they say.
BTW: although YO has an exclusive deal to sell M&H, Megaparts sells them also through some sort of arrangment with YO. Megaparts as great customer service whereas YO will keep you in the dark about backorderes.
Got my engine harness from YO when they had the 30% sale. I did had to add the AC wire at the firewall connector. It did not come with it but it is plug and play. Looks like your connector melted just like mine did.
I am actually cleaning up the firewall bulkhead connector now before putting engine back in. Both the black and red main power wires shows sign of overheat but not too bad. I will be adding dielectric grease after clean up. Make sure connectors are all seated and not loose. I will be bypassing the amp meter. May be add the wire from alternator to the starter relay down the line as well.
I am thinking by 73 they all had electronic ign so you just need 73 with ralley gauges
Yes 73 came with electronic ignition from the factory. That's why it's only listed that way. Mopar Dave @ Roseville can get the M&H harnesses also. He also offers wiring from Evan's wiring. Super nice product also and fast delivery. I have used many of them and they are spot on in every detail. Just like the factory original. I almost always have my harness within the week I order it. Usually within 3 to 4 days. Wiring up these cars are really easy when you have a new quality wiring harness.
Looks like you're replacing everything - so, if your car is an automatic might as well throw in the neutral safety switch.
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu255n
I've used Evans on four occasions, never by choice & every one has had issues.....Won't use them again....
M&H has been trouble free...
Only issue I had with M&H harnesses was with a few loose bulkhead connector crimps on the engine wiring. Haven't let the magic smoke out yet.
First, M&H, YearOne are the best way to go plug and play wise. Second, Make sure to use plenty of dielectric grease on all connections. Third, as can be seen on the picture with the burned bulkhead connector, do the volt gauge conversion to eliminate the dreaded dash fire ! Many articles on the internet are available detailing the conversion. Simply one of the best upgrades you can do to protect your car. Bulkhead connectors as well as all the different wiring connectors are available new.
:wrenching:
I have used a number of Evans harnesses with no issues at all but I have heard wire placement can be wrong at the bulkhead so do a side by side check with the old harness or wiring diagram before installing .
I have replaced the main engine harness on a 1973 Rallye Challenger with the YO piece. This was 2005 or so. I just laid the new harness out over the engine bay, then unplugged my old hacked wiring working around from the (disconnected) battery area ccw to the horn(s) area - plug and play 100%. The harness I used was HU1, the second link you posted.
I've no hands on experience installing the other harnesses listed, but back in April 2007 I picked a similar set of 4 from YO for my 1970 R/T SE. I hope there isn't a short shelf life on them...
Yes it's $$$$ - but $$$$ well spent. :twothumbsup:
I don't give my customer's a choice. I put all new M&H wiring in all my restoration projects. :drinkingbud:
I was just using your picture to raise a point. Since many people read these threads I hope that other people can take away something from them. If anyone out there has seen a similar situation on their bulkhead connectors or have noticed a burnt wire odor, or burnt wire/wires at the bottom of the steering column. Don't ignore it. It is more common than you think. Remember that even a new wiring harness will have limitations. Back in the early days of the change from generators to alternators, the alternator on a late 60's - early 70's Mopar would have been only rated at about 35 amps. on a standard wiring harness . An HD harness would be rated for about 60 amps. on a HD unit. Jump ahead to today. High energy ignitions, high output stereo amplifiers, HD headlights etc.... OK for a modern electrical system built to handle high loads but on a system designed over 40 years ago will not be up to snuff., I will list a few links that have good Mopar electrical info on a few different applications. Please read and save what applies to you.
http://www.allpar.com/fix/alternator.html
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24
http://rt-eng.com/rte/images/e/e5/LimiterManualIVR3_D.pdf
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0808-fixing-dim-or-blinking-headlights/
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml
You should have 5 harness
- Main / dash & fuse block / bulkhead
- Taillight
- Engine
- Front lighting
- trans /reverse light if 4 spd
I also but the clutch switch wire...little 12" green wire that goes to the relay. :alan2cents:
Quote from: nsmall on June 17, 2017, 04:14:36 PM
Based on all my research I am thinking I need to spring the $$$$ for new wiring.
I have a 73 Cuda with rallye gauges.
I have what am assuming to be stock ignition? Attached are some photos. I dont know if my set up is stock so I need your input on this.
Are these the correct harnesses I want?
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu329e
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu1
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu5
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/rl77
There is an option for 70 and 71 engine harnesses that have an electronic ignition, but not for 73. So Im assuming I have picked the correct set up as 73 only has one engine harness set up?
Are the yearone harnesses 100% factory correct? As in totally plug and play ready to go?
I guess I will keep my ammeter set up even though redlines near where I live can can do the volt conversion for $250.
Lastly, what type of wire grease should I buy to ensure the longevity of the new set up?
Thanks in advance.
I also included photos of areas where it doesn't look so good.
IMO - I did not feel good about trusting any old wiring. I bought all new wiring harnesses from Year One for my Cuda. As of current, I have not started my car with the new wiring harnesses as I am still installing my dash and steering column but everything thus far has been 100% plug and play and every wire has been the correct gauge and color according to the FSM schematics. I did the ammeter to volt meter upgrade on my rallye dash so I did have to cut and splice a couple of the main dash harness wires to make that work but it was quick and easy. Outside of that, I am (so far) a fan of the M & H wiring harnesses. Expensive but should be well worth it in the long run.
Quote from: nsmall on June 18, 2017, 09:16:48 PM
DO I NEED ANYTHING ELSE?
Personally, I can't think of anything more, you're covered with those 5 harnesses.
Sorry, new issue. I think the generic 73 engine harness I was about to buy may NOT be the one I want.
I think this is the one I want....https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu324e#prettyPhoto. I can try to post a pic of my fender tag later to confirm it was built "up to october of 1973"
Thanks
My fender tag
September 12 1972, SBD. I am no expert, but I know that much. :twothumbsup:
That link is for a 1974 harness. An October 73 built car will be a 74 model. You're car's SPD is Sept of 72.
It looks like an HU1 would be correct for a 73.
https://www.yearone.com/Product/challenger-cuda/hu1
I'm just going by the description. They only list one for 73.
A 74 engine harness is going to have connections for the seat belt interlock system. You don't want all that crap.
Quote from: Burdar on June 19, 2017, 11:26:37 AM
A 74 engine harness is going to have connections for the seat belt interlock system. You don't want all that crap.
:rofl:
Quote from: Burdar on June 19, 2017, 11:26:37 AM
I'm just going by the description. They only list one for 73.
A 74 engine harness is going to have connections for the seat belt interlock system. You don't want all that crap.
Yep! We had to bypass the interlock system in the Duster. No wonder it was a one year only "feature".
Quote from: Rev-It-Up on June 19, 2017, 02:38:53 PM
Quote from: Burdar on June 19, 2017, 11:26:37 AM
I'm just going by the description. They only list one for 73.
A 74 engine harness is going to have connections for the seat belt interlock system. You don't want all that crap.
Yep! We had to bypass the interlock system in the Duster. No wonder it was a one year only "feature".
I remember when I was a kid and a family member bought a new car that had it. If you tried to start the car without buckling your seatbelt it tripped that little box under the hood. So you would have to get out and go under the hood and reset it every time. Can you imagine dealing with that all the time? (rain, snow) Nobody wore seat belts back then so no one was in the habit of buckling up.