E-Bodies.org Cuda Challenger Forum

Here's how I do them. I used vinyl lettering pre mask and masking tape. But 2" masking tape will work fine also. I clean everything really good. I usually put lacquer thinner in a paint gun and use it like a power washer with high pressure and clean the engine. Then I blow it dry. Next I mask everything off and then fasten the gaskets down with a couple bolts and washers. Then I trace them with a pen. Next remove bolts and gaskets. Use a razor blade and cut just inside the trace line. This will help make sure you have no bare metal showing once it's all assembled. I used etching primer and a thin coat of sealer before the base color and clear. The epoxy primer will work in place of the etch and sealer. Before the paint dries, carefully remove all the mask. If you let it dry it will be hard to remove without peeling paint.
I'm not saying my way is better than anybody else's. It's just how I do it and it does work nicely.

Da*n that's one nice looking engine  :yes:

Just use some good quality 2" masking tape. On the large areas just do a good overlap of the tape. Sometimes when you have to bridge across large areas (lifter valley etc) run your tape the other direction crossing over the first layer. Kind of like a weave.

That's what I do as well. You use a bit of tape but it's no big deal.

2K paints will always be better then single part paints (normal rattle cans) regardless if they are high heat rated or not.  Single part rattle can paints are a thermoplastic and can always be removed with heat or a chemical.  2K paints are a thermoset and once mixed can not be removed or easily affected by chemicals.  Think about it like this, thermoplastics (rattle cans) are like butter in that they can be melted and a 2K thermoset (2 part paints that have a hardener) is like concrete in that it is a chemical reaction that can not be undone.  So yes, 2k two part paints will always be stronger then single part paints.

The key for engines is to use a flexible agent primer that allows the engine and metal to heat up and move without cracking the paint.  That's why I use the primers I do so they hold up well over time.

Thanks for the pics Neil, keep them coming as you move along.


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The number one rule in paint is Prep... Clean, clean, clean., And thin coats, 3 thin is much better than 1 thick.

I know you asked shane kelley, but I agree with your paint guy. Single stage would be better.  :alan2cents:

I used a single stage urethane enamel.  3 light coats of color after being primed.  Trust me, you won't regret it and will never paint an engine another way.  Its held up better than you can imagine and still looks incredible. 

 :iagree: I wouldn't go BCCC on an engine. I used 2K urethane over black epoxy primer. Very happy with the results.  :alan2cents:

Original hemi orange engine paint is Ditzler EQE-60626 w/ 25% Ditzler DX-265 flattening agent. That is the formula I followed.

I went with Frank Baldason's engine paints found at https://www.rogergibsonautorestoration.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/12/2015_catalogGLTfMy.pdf. It was expensive at about $100 I sprayed it, but I seem to recall you could do it with a brush.

I just tapped it up and sprayed it. Found a couple YouTube vids and followed them. Only tips are use good tape, fresh razor blades to cut tape, and use a little grease on the freeze plugs. Make sure you clean the surfaces nice before painting and after taping.