I'm in the reassembly phase of my 70 8-3/4 differential. I've bought everything from Dr. Diff, including the "Sure-Trac II" gear yet I'm using the original axle shafts as they were in great shape. Original rear end was long gone, by the way. Everything slides together well at the center chunk and the axles are each touching the thrust buttons. The outer races of the new Timken tapered bearings are gliding right into the axle housing, no problem.
When I attempt to tighten down the adjuster side (after the left side is assembled and torqued to 35#), I begin to lose adjustability by the time the right side is just starting to snug. It'd definitely bend the adjuster flange/plate if I tightened it to 35# (don't ask how I know). There's just not enough center play at the thrust button and no way to get the .008-.018 required. The thrust button shifts side to side as expected (roughly 3/8") and the thrust button assembly appears to be right at it's expected 1.5". It's almost as if I need a thicker metal gasket at each axle housing flange to bring the brake assemblies outward a tad. Flange to flange, I measure 56-7/16". I'm about out of ideas.
Call Cass, (Dr. Diff) he's always very helpful :twothumbsup:
He's working with me, but email only. Trying to cover all the bases as opposed to email Ping-Pong so I can help him help me.
Sounds like you need to either machine some off the end of the axle or the " thrust button" axle would be easiest?
Just to be clear, you got the rear end housing recently and the axles separately?
E body and c body axles are very close to the same length, the difference is the thickness of the axle flange. Measure your axle flange. Looking for .380 or .460
So if I'm reading correctly, you have the original axles ( which you do because they have the correct axle flange thickness) but have a replacement housing.
I have not gone and measured a c body to e body housing width yet, or looked online for a measurement, but that is where I'd start
I am at a loss. I had to Google the sure trac ll to get a picture.
I was thinking maybe the inside splines were not machined deep enough, or the lack of bevel on the axles was holding it up.
It looks like the carrier is set up for a thrust button, like the factory clutch unit, so the axle should not bottom in the carrier.
At least we established the you don't have a housing/axle mismatch. That happens as they are close.