Anyone running the stock choke with the heat crossover blocked? I've got a new build with 440 Source Stealth aluminum heads.
Assuming this will cause the choke to stay on longer than necessary.
Suggestions?
Pretty sure you'll have to go without a choke :thinking:
Or adapt an electric assisted choke .
I am on my AAR with stock iron heads, though. I have the choke set very light. It does have to be choked to get mine started. I have to get gas in the bowl if it's sat for a long time then pump it once to set the choke and it starts right up. It warms up fast and then the choke is not needed.
I have my sixpack intake blocked with no choke and it fires right up everytime, no matter how cold outside.
That would indicate its running too rich for maximum efficiency while running at full operating temperature then. Any internal combustion engine tuned correctly for street use or maximum efficiency while at operating temp will need a functional choke to start efficiently and be of any use while warming up. There is a reason why every one of these cars left the factory with a functioning choke. Not looking to get a choke/no choke debate thread going here, just sharing some ideas for those interested and understand the issue.
I fabricated a couple of brackets and used a manual choke cable. Works good so far after a bit of a learning curve.
This thread provides an additional option for a manual choke. I don't know what changes are required to the 340 setup, described in the thread, to adapt it to a 440.
https://forum.e-bodies.org/engine-transmission-and-rear-end/4/340-six-pack-manual-choke-conversion/27907/