im looking for somebody or a company that does small part plating. Im needing some small parts plated in clear zink, and black oxide
I've always heard good things about Eric Manual, his email is 3404@oh.rr.com
Thank you! Ill send him an email. I was looking at Caswell plating kits, but I have no idea where to start
Living in Alaska Caswell could be a good call, I'm in California so when I looked into a DIY option the chemicals are a problem.... Kinda depends on what your looking to achieve, Eric will provide high quality at a fair price, DIY will likely cost just as much but once your set up you'll be able to do all those little parts that typically get forgotten....
FWIW I used a local bulk plater, he isn't a careful but honestly probably better than true OE ever was..
Yes: I was lucky enough to find a Mopar guy 50 miles away that did it as a sideline.
No side line guys around me. Seems like a niche market, if somebody wanted to do small part plating, I just have no clue on how to do it.
I can give you my guy's info but we're in Canada, even though we are closer to you I think it would work better for mailing the parts to deal with a guy in the lower 48.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 27, 2018, 05:05:33 PM
I can give you my guy's info but we're in Canada, even though we are closer to you I think it would work better for mailing the parts to deal with a guy in the lower 48.
Shipping to Canada inst a biggie, Ive been shipping components to S.F. Restoration
Then why don't you get Stephan to plate the small parts you want done? :alan2cents:
Quote from: Jalaska907 on January 27, 2018, 10:55:11 AM
I was looking at Caswell plating kits, but I have no idea where to start
I do all my own plating, most chemicals I've gotten from Caswell. Black Oxide, Electro Zinc, Clear, Yellow, OD, and Black Chromate, Brighteners, and I like their sealer. Zinc Phoshate, and Manganese Phosphate can be had from Brownells, and a special Bronze Chromate I got from a company in the Detroit area. Everything is safe and easy to get with the exception of the Bronze chromate, largely because it wasn't intended for home use, is a Hexavalent chromate, and sold as bulk. Since the glovebox latch is about the only thing that gets this just bypass this one.
It can feel a bit intimidating when you start, but once you get up and running you will be amazed at the results. You'll have the ability to tailor your surfaces to what YOU like and need, no more one size fits all. This means base material surface prep plays a factor, as does the use of brighteners or not. It provides the flexibility to plate as needed, keeping all your hardware separated in bags to ensure they get back to the exact location you removed them from.
Not to paint an all rosy picture, it can be a PITA to keep things as they should be, and while I can replace any hardware/small parts quickly, you will spend a good few hours (quantity dependent) cleaning, prepping, plating, and cleaning up after.
Overall I'm thrilled I took the leap, amazes me that more aren't doing this, and none that I'm aware in the MOPAR threads. I've enjoyed this so much I'm planning to build a separate plating stand where everything will be better organized and available for future jobs. The process is horribly rewarding and fun (but I may be a bit of a nerd).
If you decide to go this route feel free to ask questions, I may be able to greatly reduce your learning curve and help fill in the blanks for all the "other" items you'll need and how they can be approached. I'll leave you with this final thought as a way to save money, build your own rectifier, its fun and cheap!
Quote from: anlauto on January 28, 2018, 05:20:55 AM
Then why don't you get Stephan to plate the small parts you want done? :alan2cents:
I was thinking I was going to send him a couple small things, but he is currently at 8 weeks turnaround time. Plus, living in Alaska, you can add a week each way for shipping. So thats 10 weeks for a small bracket. I dont mind sending larger items to him, as I dont need them,but if I could get a couple smaller items done, I can continue on my project.
Ive been doing some research on it for sure, as Im sure ill be wanting to do more on other builds. I think it would make things quite a bit easier to restore if I could do my own. Just got to keep doing the research. Im not a science guy by any means, so all the chemical stuff makes me a tad nervous...
Here's a video that Cuda Cody posted on you tube for Black Oxide Phosphate, for a starter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vTn6l5h67A
I've thought about doing my own as well and maybe doing it for others. I think with your location I would really consider doing my own. Shipping parts is always a worry. I'm not sure about the cost of doing your own, probably might even cost more but no anxiety of parts going missing.
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 28, 2018, 11:42:44 AM
I've thought about doing my own as well and maybe doing it for others. I think with your location I would really consider doing my own. Shipping parts is always a worry. I'm not sure about the cost of doing your own, probably might even cost more but no anxiety of parts going missing.
Very true, even more so that a majority of these parts are near impossible to locate again. A worry for me, is dealing with the hazardous waste that is generated. Even 5 gallons, can be quite costly to properly dispose of, and the cradle to grave laws really are quite a concern for me.
Im keeping my options open, but i need to find something in the mean time.
Quote from: Jalaska907 on January 28, 2018, 12:03:35 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on January 28, 2018, 11:42:44 AM
I've thought about doing my own as well and maybe doing it for others. I think with your location I would really consider doing my own. Shipping parts is always a worry. I'm not sure about the cost of doing your own, probably might even cost more but no anxiety of parts going missing.
Very true, even more so that a majority of these parts are near impossible to locate again. A worry for me, is dealing with the hazardous waste that is generated. Even 5 gallons, can be quite costly to properly dispose of, and the cradle to grave laws really are quite a concern for me.
Im keeping my options open, but i need to find something in the mean time.
Caswell chemicals are of the friendlier variety, particularly the chromates. Caswell chromates are Trivalent where the ones you hear about making the news are generally Hexavalent.
Look up electroplating in your local yellowpages. I sent all my fasteners out to a local company to be barrel plated. They have a minimum charge of $35. I got all the fasteners done for that amount.(I had them cleaned to bare metal before sending them out)
For the phosphates fasteners, I bought Caswells black oxide kit. It works great. You just have to seal the fasteners once they are darkened. The black oxide is just a darkener...it doesn't protect against rust.
AAR#2, I know rectifier choice is important. :thinking: What rectifier do you use /recommend ? How big is your chem tub ?
Quote from: Burdar on January 28, 2018, 02:12:16 PM
Look up electroplating in your local yellowpages. I sent all my fasteners out to a local company to be barrel plated. They have a minimum charge of $35. I got all the fasteners done for that amount.(I had them cleaned to bare metal before sending them out)
For the phosphates fasteners, I bought Caswells black oxide kit. It works great. You just have to seal the fasteners once they are darkened. The black oxide is just a darkener...it doesn't protect against rust.
Nobody in Alaska does electroplating, there is powder coating but were pretty limited on services
Quote from: GY3R/T on January 28, 2018, 05:44:15 PM
AAR#2, I know rectifier choice is important. :thinking: What rectifier do you use /recommend ? How big is your chem tub ?
OK, so when I started this years ago I jumped in with the 1.5 gallon kit, wasn't sure if I could get it to work to an acceptable level or work at all. Long story short I had a learning curve but the results can be fantastic. The 1.5 gallon kit is perfect for hardware and small parts, most things on your restoration will fit into the bath, and like me, if you're trying it for the first time you sure don't want to sink any more money than needed to get started.
So lets talk basics first, the Copy CAD kit provides many basics but not everything needed. Don't be shocked when you start adding to the list, should you decide to jump in I'd be happy to spend time discussing all the small items needed.
The rectifier alone almost had me pass on trying this as these are EXPENSIVE, and the amperage range is pretty small for the money. The solution I opted for was to build a rectifier using DC current from a battery charger, by running it through a series of landscape lights and toggle switches you can easily adjust the current accurately, and to verify what you get I suggest running it through a multimeter to start.
By using different bayonet wattage bulbs you can build current to a desired level. The Caswell electroplating kit will require .14 amp per sq/in to plate a part. Remember that lawn lights are sold by watts, and watts divided by volts = amps. So a 18W lawn bulb will produce no more than 1.5amps, and a 12 watt bulb will produce no more than 1 amp. The amps generated fluctuate slightly based on the power supply setting, in my case based on the setting of the battery charger (2amp, 10 amp or engine start). I elected to build mine using 12 sockets, normally loaded with (4) 4 watt bulbs (for fine adjustment), (4) 12 watt bulbs, and (4) 18 watt bulbs. For larger jobs I have loaded all sockets with 18 watt bulbs to increase amperage, doing this will produce approx 18 amps or enough for about 128 sq/in of plating surface, a lot for a 1.5 gallon bath. Some of you may pick up that if a 4 watt bulb produces .33 amps why does your sticker say .26? This is because I had the battery charger set on 2 amps, had it been set higher, more amps but would not exceed the .33, so another way to adjust if needed. I'm here to tell you that I pained over being accurate with my sq/in measurements easy on and learned later that being close is good enough, you too will learn if you get started.
I ordered bayonet sockets and toggle clamps on-line to saved money, the rest you can see is basic sheetmetal, wood and wires. At the risk of already babbling, I'll stop and see if anyone is still interested.
So to give you an idea of the type of results, heres a couple pieces in various chromate colors.
:veryexcited: :bravo: Fantastic info !! So you are saying , build your own rectifier. I undestand you need to estimate the area to be plated. Tail light housings, Holley carb bodies and larger parts would need a 5 or 10 gal bath with pumps to get a coverage ? Will a home-made rectifier be able to handle this ?
Awesome info!! Those results look great!!
Quote from: GY3R/T on January 28, 2018, 08:44:10 PM
So you are saying , build your own rectifier. I undestand you need to estimate the area to be plated. Tail light housings, Holley carb bodies and larger parts would need a 5 or 10 gal bath with pumps to get a coverage ? Will a home-made rectifier be able to handle this ?
Tail lights and carb bodies are not electro deposit zinc, they are dichromate dipped and tough to get right without knowing a good formula (and where to get it), temp of bath, surface prep of part, dip time and the reason I'd suggest using Scott Smith or Stephan Fournier. Yes, the larger the part, the bigger the bath. Bigger the part the more amperage thats needed, but no reason a home rectifier can't accommodate what you'd like. The issue may be reading amperage above 10 amps. Most multimeters only read up to 10 amps and are protected with a fuse that will blow when the amperage rating is exceeded. Since I very rarely go over the 10 amps, you can read what each 18 watt bulb is generating up to the 10 amp range, bypass the multimeter, and extrapolate the remaining amperage. I suspect there are other ways of reading high amperage but I have not had a need or investigated the options on this.
All bath sizes I recommend using a submersible pump to keep the bath moving.