I have a new mystery with my 360. I did a cam swap and put the same distributor and distributor/oil pump drive gear back in.
Unless I have the distributor really tightened down, I can spin the rotor by hand...which makes for a problem when I'm trying to set timing.
Can you think of a corrective action? Try a new distributor? Do I need an aftermarket distributor drive?
Not a smallblock guy but did the distributor drive bushing come out?
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on September 05, 2018, 07:37:47 PM
Not a smallblock guy but did the distributor drive bushing come out?
It's in there, saw it when I primed the oil pump before dropping the gear in. I believe they're in the block pretty good.
I did change the oring on the distributor but I can't see that being the issue. I left it tightened down for 48h, thinking that would let the oring set.
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The gear drive is limited by the bushing in the block & the distributor blade that engages the drive goes well down in the slot so I cannot see this being an issue...
One thought, we had a 90's v6 Dakota that had a broken distributor shaft(I was told my the mechanic) that would still run fine most of the time.....
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on September 05, 2018, 07:45:08 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on September 05, 2018, 07:37:47 PM
Not a smallblock guy but did the distributor drive bushing come out?
I did change the oring on the distributor but I can't see that being the issue. I left it tightened down for 48h, thinking that would let the oring set.
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I too just did a cam change. The intake kit (340 motor) came with a new distributor o ring. The distributor would not go all the way down so I put the old O ring back on.
Quote from: Cudakiller70 on September 05, 2018, 10:00:43 PM
Quote from: GoodysGotaCuda on September 05, 2018, 07:45:08 PM
Quote from: RUNCHARGER on September 05, 2018, 07:37:47 PM
Not a smallblock guy but did the distributor drive bushing come out?
I did change the oring on the distributor but I can't see that being the issue. I left it tightened down for 48h, thinking that would let the oring set.
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I too just did a cam change. The intake kit (340 motor) came with a new distributor o ring. The distributor would not go all the way down so I put the old O ring back on.
I actually found my old o-ring on the bench and will go ahead and swap it back out :thinking:
When you say you can turn the rotor by hand, are you referring to the actual rotor and shaft, or are you saying you can rotate the housing of the dizzy in the block bore when it's clamped???
It sounds like you are talking about the housing, but spinning rotor by hand is completely different issue...
Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on September 06, 2018, 06:31:37 AM
When you say you can turn the rotor by hand, are you referring to the actual rotor and shaft, or are you saying you can rotate the housing of the dizzy in the block bore when it's clamped???
It sounds like you are talking about the housing, but spinning rotor by hand is completely different issue...
Rotor and shaft. Like the shaft isn't engaged in the drive gear. Housing is fixed.
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Double check that the bushing is in the block....just in case it came out with your priming tool. They are supposed to be in the block tight but not all of them are.
Also check to make sure the collar on the under side of the distributor is still there. Some are plastic and can break. That would allow the distributor shaft to lift up.
Is the internal distributor shaft able to move up and down (or in and out) of the distributor housing ? There's usually a plastic retainer/pin type thing at the bottom, is that still intact ?
QuoteAlso check to make sure the collar on the under side of the distributor is still there. Some are plastic and can break. That would allow the distributor shaft to lift up.
QuoteIs the internal distributor shaft able to move up and down (or in and out) of the distributor housing ? There's usually a plastic retainer/pin type thing at the bottom, is that still intact ?
Is there an echo in here? :P
Oh....I didn't read that far down.... :headbang: I guess great minds think alike :brainiac:
:iagree:
My guess is that the pin came out of the collar that holds the shaft in place, allowing it to rise and disengage from the drive slot in the pump drive shaft...
The easy way to check that would be to push down on the rotor and try to rotate it, if it's in the drive gear it shouldn't turn I would think. :huh:
Pulled the new oring out and put the old back in, good to go!
Thanks all. Watch those orings
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:clapping:
Glad that you got the problem fixed, but a little baffled that an o-ring could make that much difference in the distributor shaft tang's engagement!
Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on September 10, 2018, 01:29:05 PM
:clapping:
Glad that you got the problem fixed, but a little baffled that an o-ring could make that much difference in the distributor shaft tang's engagement!
I was skeptic as well.
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The o-ring thickness must be considerably larger (or a higher 'hardness') such that it couldn't compress on the taper going into the block, but must have held the housing a 1/4" or more above the block mating surface!?!?
Glad you solved it.
Quote from: 73_Cuda_4_Me on September 10, 2018, 02:09:21 PM
The o-ring thickness must be considerably larger (or a higher 'hardness') such that it couldn't compress on the taper going into the block, but must have held the housing a 1/4" or more above the block mating surface!?!?
It's noticeably larger in most every dimension, OD and thickness. I figured the old o-ring had just been squashed into submission over the last 40 years...nope!
Had same issue with mine in the past. I also ended up using an old one so distributor would properly drop into bore. Yes, it will stay up a significant amount.
Mike