70 Rim Blow Wheel Switch Repair

[schlett7nu1]

Pondering repairing the switch myself on my 70 Challenger original rim blow steering wheel.  The rubber circumferential covering has hardened and cracked and no longer works.  I see one can purchase a replacement switch.  How tough is it to replace?  Do you glue in the new switch around the groove?  Also, do you have to solder the switch to the pigtail?  The original pigtail is present.  Any guidance would be appreciated.
thanks
Dereck

[Plumcrazzy]

I have done dozens of Rimblow switch installs. Here we go--Remove the switch cover and save it and the screw--dig out the old switch--inside you will find two (2) flat strips of copper---look at the internal structure of the switch so you will know what I refer to later. These flat strips make contact when squeezed enough to touch each other creating a ground--thus "Rimblow". Remove the pigtail wire and save it. The rubber surround on the Rimblow has a very narrow lip on each side and this lip fits into a slight groove on each side of the recess on the ID of the wheel. Clean the groove and the slots VERY well. I use 1/8" welding rods with the ends bent , flattened, sharpened, etc. to clean the groove and the slots. MUST BE CLEAN OF ALL DEBRIS!!!! Most repro switches are just a shade too long so they will have to be trimmed to proper length--DO NOT trim until the switch is installed. I use a tiny bit of vaseline and a Q-tip to coat the slots and the lips on the switch. Start the end of the switch right where the pigtail wire was and now the FUN begins. Ever so carefully, begin tucking the rubber into the slot---first one side then the other. Use a blunt, narrow, flat object to tuck the lips of the switch into the slots. Don't forget--those two flat copper strips are only held apart by two tiny rubber ledges inside the switch--if the copper slips off the ledge and makes contact the horn will blow all the time. (This is the primary reason Rimblows are rare--most folks hated them). When the switch comes around and is close to meeting the initial starting point it is time to make a judgement on how much rubber/copper to trim. Cut one copper strip flush with the end of the rubber and leave the other strip long enough to attach the pigtail wire. Then, trim and tuck. Flip the wheel on its face--shape and install the pigtail wire into the groove(I hold mine in place with with spring type clothespins). Put a couple drops of gel type instant glue on the pigtail wire and let it flow into the groove. Flip the wheel--solder the pigtail wire to the copper strip. Install the switch cover. Pray all is well. Test the switch. Smile when it works. Remember that every time you underhand the steering the horn if likely to sound. Have fun.

[schlett7nu1]

Awesome write up. Once I pick up a switch I'll give it a go.
Thanks

[70rag383]

Hi Plumcrazzy,

Good write up on the rimblow repair. I'm trying to get mine working and I have a question.  Am I to understand that the exposed copper strips on each end of the switch have to make contact with each other in order for the horn to sound (this completes the ground)?  From the way my wheel is configured I don't see how that is possible since only one end has the copper strip exposed.  Even if both ends had an exposed copper strip, how does squeezing the rubber switch inside the wheel  make them touch?  If you could send me a pic of what it should look like that would be awesome, thanks!

Here is a picture of mine.