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Fuel gauge non rallye

Started by RJChallenger, April 01, 2018, 12:41:59 PM

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RJChallenger

Great site, very informative. Im trying to make one good gas gauge out of two . one has a very beautiful face and a burnt bi-metal strip. the other a very shitty face  but good electrically. My problem is the gauge only reads 3/4 full with 5 volts to the terminals and id like to re-calibrate the gauge. If you look at the inside it looks like to adjustments are possible. Has any ever calibrated a fuel gauge before thanks. Hopefully you can see in the pictures the arms with little teeth

Brads70

What car/year are you working on? I have a few  gauge clusters here for a 70 Challenger?

Cuda Cody

Non rallye fuel gauges are not hard to find.  But if you want to fix yours I'm all in to help.   :D  When you put 5 volts to it how much resistance are you using?  Normally you will use between about 10 and 70 ohms. 


Cuda Cody


RJChallenger

I'm working on a 70 challenger A66 car. Presently a 440 pistol grip 4 spd. Its been on jack stands for the last 34 years waiting for the kids to move out. I hope to have it on the road in 2019. The cluster I'm working on is a 71 model( date code 2280) I just picked up for 40 bucks hoping to flip or trade for other parts to move my project along. Whats a gas gauge worth and what can I sell the cluster for? Where abouts in Ontario are you

RJChallenger

your awesome on you tube. Im just using 3 AAA batteries taped together. I bought this cluster at a swap meet $40 very clean unit ( Date code 2280). I found a broken wire on the bi-metal strip at the grounding stud. Had an old broken gauge and used it to fix the clean gauge. But only reads 3/4 full at 4.5 volts. The two inside have teeth that are accessible through holes on the back cover . I'm hoping to be able to calibrate by moving these teeth which should affect where the needle reads.Am I missing something here

Cuda Cody

I'll tell ya, I've never had to open one up.  I just bend the sending unit arm to make the gauge read right.   :sorry:  Sorry I can't be more help.


Brads70

Quote from: RJChallenger on April 01, 2018, 09:14:45 PM
I'm working on a 70 challenger A66 car. Presently a 440 pistol grip 4 spd. Its been on jack stands for the last 34 years waiting for the kids to move out. I hope to have it on the road in 2019. The cluster I'm working on is a 71 model( date code 2280) I just picked up for 40 bucks hoping to flip or trade for other parts to move my project along. Whats a gas gauge worth and what can I sell the cluster for? Where abouts in Ontario are you

I'm in Barrie. If you need a gauge to progress your project , I'll give you one. If your wanting parts to fix up and sell/flip .... well I can do that myself.

Bullitt-

First off I question your whether your power source is possibly the issue .....  This is NOT anything I've ever dealt with but this post on a Jeep forum seems to cover what your trying to do possibly.  I don't see all the adjustments they reference on your piece but imagine there are a couple the same. .

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f8/fuel-gauge-calibration-393162/

Good Luck & let us know if this works for you. 
.                                               [glow=black,42,300]Doin It Southern Syle[/glow]       

RJChallenger

Thanks for the offer,That was very kind of you. I'd be happy to buy or trade for the gauge. I'm not interested in flipping parts as a job. I'm more interested in trading the the parts I don't need any more for parts that I do need.To help out a fellow brother. I only bought this cluster because of a 2280 date on back of the cluster. I've just recently found out just how my challenger is a one year only car. The parts that I need are one front retractable seat belt (black) , drivers door panel (black) and a head liner. Thanks Rob.

RJChallenger

Cody your wrong about the amount of help you've been.The responses to other posts and your "you tube stardom" have been a huge source of information. If I didn't type with one finger Id post more. Thank you for all your help,and that of the E-body forums Rob


dodj

I agree with bullit. At 4.5v you are starting off with a 10 percent loss in supply voltage.  That will give you a corressponding lack of needle deflection.
Doesn't account for all of your issue, but correct what you know to be a deficiency first and work from there.

A helping hand like brad offered is the easiest route?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill

Brads70

Quote from: RJChallenger on April 02, 2018, 05:31:08 AM
Thanks for the offer,That was very kind of you. I'd be happy to buy or trade for the gauge. I'm not interested in flipping parts as a job. I'm more interested in trading the the parts I don't need any more for parts that I do need.To help out a fellow brother. I only bought this cluster because of a 2280 date on back of the cluster. I've just recently found out just how my challenger is a one year only car. The parts that I need are one front retractable seat belt (black) , drivers door panel (black) and a head liner. Thanks Rob.
Yes 70  Challenger has a few unique parts.... do you have the ribbed bezel or smooth one? 70 Gauges are a one year only thing too. I likely have the entire set up here if I go digging? I know I don't have the ribbed switch panel though.

RJChallenger

Until I can afford a 70 rallye cluster Ill have to made due with what I have.Presently I have a 73 rallye cluster and wiring harness. It took quite a bit of thinking to remove the inter lock system from the wiring harness, make operational. Pull wires from the back of the fuse block bulk head , so that the two incompatible wiring harnesses would work together. I'm not going to touch it until I have a 70 cluster.As far as ribbed or not I wouldn't be that picky. I just don't want to be that guy that took 35 years to fix a car.Thank you for offer

Brads70

Quote from: RJChallenger on April 02, 2018, 08:36:59 AM
Until I can afford a 70 rallye cluster Ill have to made due with what I have.Presently I have a 73 rallye cluster and wiring harness. It took quite a bit of thinking to remove the inter lock system from the wiring harness, make operational. Pull wires from the back of the fuse block bulk head , so that the two incompatible wiring harnesses would work together. I'm not going to touch it until I have a 70 cluster.As far as ribbed or not I wouldn't be that picky. I just don't want to be that guy that took 35 years to fix a car.Thank you for offer

Are you sure it's a rallye cluster you have?  :huh: I found a set and pulled this fuel gauge out. It's yours if you need it, just pay the shipping would be great?