E-Bodies Cuda Challenger Message Forum

E-Bodies Cuda & Challenger (sponsor: ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) => Your Restoration project (ROSEVILLE MOPARTS) => Topic started by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 09:25:14 AM

Title: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 09:25:14 AM
I've been on here for quite a while, so figured I'd finally post something!  I'm currently exactly one year into my restoration.  I've had this car since I was 16 (I'm 35 now), and have literally done everything else myself (EVERYTHING except the block machine work) to it except for body work since I've never done it before.  Well, after realizing how much it would cost to pay someone to do this work and being so hands on, I've had a change of heart! 

It's a restomod and most of the mechanical changes are done with the possible upgrade to a Hellcrate and Tremec Magnum powertrain later on.

Some basic specs on it before going under the knife:

- 408 stroker w/ Eddy aluminum heads, Super Victor EFI manifold, headers, etc..
- EFI using Megasquirt 3X module that I assembled and tuned with custom harness, LS truck coils, 4150 TB, Venom injectors
- Aeromotive Phantom Stealth 340 EFI pump in modified replacement tank
- Vintage A/C controlled by MS3X
- 4L60E controlled my MS2 module communicating via CAN bus to MS3X
- 200A alternator
- Champion 3 tube radiator with Lincoln MK4 fan and overflow
- RMS Alterktion front suspension
- RMS Street Lynx rear suspension
- 14" Wilwood brakes all the way around
- Hydroboost assist
- 18" Torq Thrust M wheels (275 front and 315 rear)
- power windows, locks, keyless entry, Autometer gauges, stereo w/ 4 channel amp

Note: this was neither a rare nor a numbers matching car when I bought it way back in the day, so hopefully too many people don't lose their minds with all of the changes.  I also drive the crap out of this car when weather allows, so it had to start, run, handle, and stop well to keep up with modern cars with the inevitable Chicago traffic insanity that is the norm around here.  Defensive driving is not an option around here, and neither is trying to maintain 1/4 miles gaps between cars.

Anyway, here are some pics of the build before tear down.  I'll upload highlights as current as I can.  This is my first go at body work, so go easy on me, LOL!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2j7hzna33WAy29yYOqPBsCPM7hNHu-0prbJ9tHvLt8Zd3Cx4MJJkJL3OboI-iRaAoBN1JGScb7Lp8RR-XGHDcrchGrNQPyXZAgUC05ku6r4QEkWgkrjTCnYeD1qawyX2eWbnQqy2SA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/RzptZDwJ6-Q9OcfpEtY3tkATEa7LsPPwkT3q0_Uz9vnXUFoYdytXNxWRTjIz9kX8ZTGBM1VY95aPqEz_F8iX5biagtSA6VumP3FhbDjf9wbzUD29ctfuvFAxDSe-Yx_RM8npZngEjA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vrwLG2SyYZUsewQn-KHFnKm2lJiS9EMIRf5C_aApRn2H1VHn1m2Fr3Wnxer86ndY1vhr87oFLMbbdq-xi8ynxBozU8HcKhfiDgrPIZ-oIgN7CQDsLEAmrU6Nw_BayYPKldE8mny3RA=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 09:41:41 AM
Last November, I decided to have a go at replacing the floor pan, which I knew was totally shot when I was young and dumb and modded everything else but decided to put new carpet over the rust hole.  Out of sight, out of mind!  Well, at least until I got an impromptu enema driving through a large puddle in an unexpected downpour!  That refreshed my memory....

That's my dog in as much awe as myself.  Someone "repaired" it back in the day with bondo, window screen, pop rivets, and caulk.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/oc4DuDnJP62Tlq3FoVZmJOsTuRsM9Uig2ZIrzfF-DlYNJTEXEnIMFMXeSjA32nDCe0acFvg86hQNR_G3k-tSPbZVhFDsWeD9c4_yaVOqBlUKuYbiw75oJR1pLM9e3osulaEYuj-V7g=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fxVngHqL0ED4iOycyvzVzRotkB6qSygaA9RP3s3A7WZpS-xepl6kKi7Vzr2V3HQua62nBSfvAZuGKM8Dsg4JeU1ECr3kZccwZreA1MUr-XWycBADGFrDhy8bkr-RIA91bM4YXmYwzg=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MeUhBJ3hLsJKizMuxDchwPDzmjW8N1exwR6pzCCrHmSvpR_PY5iPlz0lq-x1EEmChAo--mF0ThbJVT6juhUmHkL5NWvKK1EBCsjkkpDdq2feJVxyYWaT8cmpkWHJobYqQclhzCU2Pw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WCzYKAK4gRkQMBEPAYB5kKPwryLfPD05ixanULuJhRqk_zM1fJzqPJW6NZxgoIR4HEnA0Ewg2Bha9RQNZOOpItY9puFbpEr-c2mh9DGTc2iHtnmncQsCzWg2_YGnCYLR7REaFFuhXw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vZOKlHQnXCpw9HCBuHnXSximYA-1wDQIbemomRgRs6PtDo3gaQOUFl_QJWDqlk6R9Iit5WxpxahtmljgYWu0LGKtyKZdA2zN6_V3wMphjCJw7bwrRKs8t3QkVZ6m2civq_32zCJsYQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iKZpJFVnSs2Ss7_2psy0Y-GOQY1BH-CmSpC9a2iauqxM2mgqey3VXP6yu4WP28DR4ozjiGo-kTZeJMPAYidvBr1gfvHzAO55HZiKG_Rt7jcqWDvpctuhgjX9cwb0lkfkPWmNivdO8w=w2400)

Maybe a small patch would have sufficed?!  HA!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EZRoIBe_Ez1Xa-GGbOIXLl1FHrev7Pa8S-idN1q-LBuxTAWqKuOB-RP1voAojcDZliu2E_CvzHfZIlqChEfgIK2YhODa8oJ7B51Pen3JkadgZBXGS17OH9cKXaLGQPiuqrg2Xxuhpw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0Ete3AlBnGgY2KUh_D3pm2nF03Skl6k4FObbl6l9QO7iCBKttXE0UgkKjquelX20GUCqx6ZqiXWe72vmUas7bqVLkdrFQfCBBeoeAz5umDaT2ygO_Os9_lwgHGA8uMQ_PLGBTNhWbw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8P0J4Cb83891rT5xpVYvomctcL_6uRcEg6shof1VKPZl5QuNYICYF3jqEhPbYtW3UAVE0n8OQHcVHJ9gaW0izMI2OjFIin-gCjTHBhIpC6TkOMVtcI1GBaJYD_cVW5DsxoVK9cm63w=w2400)

Overall, the floors were not too bad a good test run.  I learned then that nothing fits quite right on these cars.  Get me the bigger hammer and grinder!!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 09:54:47 AM
After getting cocky and thinking this was not all that bad, I decided to yank the fenders and powertrain to evaluate the rust in more depth.  Better grab a bucket...   :barf:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0LeAXaO1PTSr1Mjb0LTHBd6PVkB-DxYRdyiosoFj4iAIGiwJ_MlC2UabYZv7MJuV8KW2x8Er2YmDiX5p5edUtZOtWwpSb5pnSmvpr_KaHrK94gNiR5JCGLrna9J0vihK0SU-CaZvmA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aDAlHGZ3wAiTP8Une98sGBKXgjubNKWQVHut0iHLfNlPxW4IVpJwKkMO7r1ac6jlXn5ytXqlJ-xHvc7UC_3JQBEMCQxjqrrH379RODHp2ePPaaZmwkCg_wTf8Gwi6rO4GWPDjbHKEA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rJdGohufEq97kQ7BmJQazDf1g39vjftGs3AT2Y82fzqB-b6fgFTayRrUoBV4JHTnShw-00hDaWGv4czMvPd7SFWzsYXrQYvbUS8riaAK-nMnJrzbuaXwlbygVh4jGRF_oc1bY64Ohg=w2400)

Usual rot in the hood hinge area along with every inner fender bracket to the firewall, and the cowl/firewall itself is swiss cheese

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W3vEVnYjZvtdGRvzzEv02H_5Xec9Rfbh3Wp4oDnsRrtG1xe0bhQ3Kvc2lDF6h51MGhf4SiH7-JoMWIy3_XqI1tS9TLPR_wzoR6fS0TT0Gw-hFOPrz3_jFkXQ1Gv08Z2JgUMZM4ABaw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/NYa4ehCY14bXY5-3zb4A-PUY10LmHg3XMsYVRsb-KHP0wC0crlY0jViDgcmEyCnB2cQSty_PN4-dlQJWK3GR534fUI4JdZPepozEZTkhSzto0al4HJjt9fYj1LKCA7Q3euIxIKEfrg=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6v1-1VIonYFrgku1dv9EBEj4juLNeD_c7UEDPCmY5kzCtEEYDDLONyNzhrwShv6xEr1xyZ9Xj1XEZU74g2I-_7Dq1ug2borM55W__UqJ45u3jvqg-TlxCQPDD1qumqRfQq6VEiY55Q=w2400)

Rocker is shot on the RH side for sure...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/P2j-bLK9z-M3bxcKGihMKAY9IlsE-AC6LNbXC9LPwbkIDSLa0MYhLNrPsOw-g3b7WnazPu-Nxeg9OOXwv-m8IBg7e1eYDTBsSPPP5D-nTwFUaMDT0FJMEWJvvwArXt8u5JOdsyZy_w=w2400)

Lots of rot on the firewall and splash panels

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/AzMQgT5by-eeLq8gpTeOj5GAho2l5HHVed3exuCcpUqLDOhjDmUdCJqYnyCQAOhCtbeKzseQIL2ot5GlvrRl20MmvZyNd3k4pjH7NMJBs4FKpG0odsT-ij3JTQ4AsPfVxwHzYCgQAw=w2400)

Time to yank out the rest of the interior and strip the firewall down I guess.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 10:15:58 AM
Cowl and firewall replacement is totally beginner work, right?!  I have problems...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G1mGOTtY4Ird__STlvvaDAV86_1xpdZkID4ug0wUGuD642Dvj6Fbt1zi1YW8ZKXhNqmd-lS1Z7TTv1E_C6FMW1gutdwZ3XT6NEJU1ldkwc17lWx1Ttwrjtl8ddMuKb9RHUYFs0vPpQ=w2400)

Ole girl is getting some braces

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Rgm8MunfyaRMG1tWOiRD-35VchMRR87BuKeM2O_QlxOGnv_eO822cLTIZhoRweECc7k3RF8LYhdLgmronGOCclvMXYb0lKxwqF0esMgGmqnR12Fcm0V9_hOmZfsI9VRemssiVXb07g=w2400)

Cowl is off, and what a PITA.  At a glance, it doesn't look too bad...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nJiocBFsoeyvSvKBZ4G9S5kLQO0bZaUN44C9YUAhHlfnaWgo1LACnJv9WhYlc6vUGg2cHPCz3FbrYZfhHxc40LfuMFJgjuGOWsW97UAyFdECjkYDXZEJ_8U4XnAjoMWy-fM5K2Uy0g=w2400)

Now I know why the firewall rotted so bad on that side.  Not the only nest I'd find in this car either!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/29CqFw2J649Klj1iBcymi5whnIlKxxi1X6aIbiR8TKIxo7XD2_0TwruGytuTrRiOKsulb8ffeUrsUhiTDTe5GKAOzsOdGxSnibDYSaGKBmYopYyI-1bW0YpFufVYLGK_CxxEDvokhA=w2400)

The AMD cowl was ok.  Out of the box it fit poorly, but once you worked and clamped it into place it kind of stretched into the correct position.  There are differences though; I assume they patterned it off of an earlier model year.  The firewall fitment and correctness for my car was similar.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qA6FOdj0fG8PTg05K0c6bm1vXcjCa1a130uact6VMyTmuDFop7K3L_WaW1IGgCIMOyd31uYuX_32FeHr8sObCbWcMljMgpbrc6IcQiaggpkt9h9GLX_LMtC1cvoY8Ul3BDQdy2W0eA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xvIIh_fioV7nsEsRMx6rVp8zrrC6EciNa6lg2aCGJjtPnTnTmSv1Ci3dl0FtSmAJyDJXLzj-pCnfGrLI0obAwrtTrNOS8xdEsMXvrN05I2-MSONbT_4auPEmhZhLfGBPQX5JsdP0aA=w2400)

Getting scary now!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wOMTMqa8HDvtxpyUf7gsyRgkeHlMYx4afnjBmv2--E326u-WB4QodxaqAJhfWWZuS_VgA2fd-x2WvmMRCuoS8dtxALlqloCybxQ1fIX4Gabyo9zir0luS3Oy6Bhi01OmUgiU6yrYGg=w2400)

Initial mockup; I have to replace both cowl side panels since the seams are completely rotted out and I'm no fabricator.  Those panels actually fit like garbage.  They had nuts welded onto the wrong side of the panel and bends that shouldn't exist.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G16Am2sqf020iFrn4ye15lpezQKshyDMsn-Jdm6aIYcs_tiJgEyflfAqiThc7LhRBwiBNKpV17RV9dXYhBE5An5M3slA6nrh6GLyDAzTbk7i960j07x17M_ahKQI4OmiF-aMfnatbw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/t9XYUJMBK2yjH9U9LyokFgnqFKMnCBDz8DqArNIGShCmN1LVrAXOOBYECgoBZ_7Ec2jLUCVdB3lxdFwgUK43A6-I4SMQQHsTphrczsdQRY87m6u-NaYcBjDQOWOXsJ0HIvjxJtuoyw=w2400)

Going back together....  I panel bonded and spot welded the cowl to firewall seams and lower firewall seam.  It seemed like the perfect place to use that product to ensure water stays out and away from the overlapped panels.  I used a weld through seam sealer on the cowl like the factory did, but it did not take kindly to MIG plug welding!  Wear a respirator!  I epoxy primed the cowl and firewall insides and will use Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating to ensure that area stays rust free.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2FHRPBcXmI7zzFARhnBs-MsTL5aDAIZvNUFj-BO37JIAd4MEDlH8aG0RPT4G_Sc_pxSzuy9jcNZD4H6ZQ8GrmjCZyjie9B1mN8yqgIM49Z208r36iGHU5eD6uAYcO3Yko26ZoMungQ=w2400)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/o0BCtLs__bsp1aoRTmaOqc9PLih6gEnr4EDu7DDWsF9lq-3RarndujvbHH7tD6on3wnSmQIxSEJ7px_ESz_6z2JaK9TfXNMlsboIZzuWIsrlQtlefHuOL1adNtxMxQNLq1MT4CYt-Q=w2400)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/sONrl1d6f03SYBroMN4WW6w0qNWBdMeuf-mbft9Vur2I8lZ9vuAUO1B6NM_hA1447WBq_K9hwqNjzeXpQiARAr0VThmesuEDNpxGAT13CqMPSWXOL8XZDQbQGWtOaAeiMKaOO94Vyg=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5dYrAyfDUWGJ9W0Nf9R0iyfxCXKhxKNitl7UFFfj3OryfDX2hAdRvUlN9PPxIfDdR6v-9z25ztSdaF664lx8TFbXPOOhBWUkfJk-Kncg8PCcNVYyyPAPmEuWGTFjDKjGO9k9kR6JoA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/VLS41dEpX2LpJ5oUXJXL84irXGMZ30t6BYS8ELmvrecipwxxy21hAmoFEqaIPzR6hUxNppyAClag4TZ5Bbl3yS01Cs190x28LeDYvCvn3LZQNuP_XXuZ6IidaQzHDVc4iE6dA76wbQ=w2400)

Moving on to the inner fenders and core support next!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JS29 on December 08, 2019, 10:46:48 AM
Now would be a good time to install US cartool stiffener system were the braces go from the cowl to the aprons.    :alan2cents: good job so far.  :wrenching:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: larry4406 on December 08, 2019, 11:02:01 AM
I know someone will ask, so are you transferring the VIN over to the new cowl panel?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 01:39:23 PM
Yup!  I haven't uploaded the pics yet, but I installed those along with the core stiffener as well.  I have torque boxes and subframe connectors too.  I also installed their mini tub/frame notch kit.

I did not transfer the VIN stamping because there is almost nothing left of them.  I think they were stamped lightly and poorly to begin with on my car, and corrosion didn't help.  Half of the letters are legible.  I cut it out and saved it just in case though.  These clowns stamped my upper radiator support badly too, which I didn't replace since it was in good shape.  It's stamped right through one of the holes in the top of the rail! Not to mention the half dozen or so spot welds they did on one side of my car for the hinge panel to floor joint, and neglected to do on the other side. 
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 06:07:22 PM
Inner fenders were rotten near the firewall on both sides so I replaced them.  I also used this opportunity to install the 26" core support side panel too since the RH side was in really bad shape.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YisVk84IJ2xh7nACS8kMqgJ0OyzfLzPJ0njaV46ZF6SBHnPV1Mo7B3KvRqnSzECgZLpDyOj4olfIKYESJcNDrF92lZRt-ZMxK_eSBuEilg9m1mUOyHftQwkt4xMjfaR7jO3vCyYIwQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BNlX1oE6-zn6uiXtL_atCYOTgrjP0YPvswGxdxhLwUKx4eGi6X-MW372By8UQO-VouNQX3loGvHorVRvlMURkNuSaoLNzfUvGWnXCZDPpiozRpZ2vknkOjdSC6xkbxFeGnHZ9AGlsQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vYuzdlXUIMkvsC1lMofG6UlRhv_IaEzZZVqD5JEB3jPLAJChREdR-KbRH2Lknb6nQgfedZP4mr6Cu4kfkQcoono6DYz3y9Qz2gJfHaKEk3AZpUpGWjTojHOHQR9eAW6gvnDDBG6G3w=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vV1mhjE9Zjly6crdY0ggKbV04M6qGfNATmw2IFpi6C8VWx99tA58plOfAavjOyGxiibwLmMYyhoEXHL41d54UZWsL74ziqd0oOHK5ynOrxIYnAGK2Ja6Sl_7A_geGD8BckGZoVomCQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UgZ_j9u_qz8lo1BzYQhftWHK1icSkzJ9H6x6ukv-z1adM2ZqiO25h78TkfrOWIpGXLxuAJu3XgHxVSV0FgydxdwssRBzZbWic72Ki8wObh8K2Pga_nyxV9jF3PpHfYq_GJFERoXesQ=w2400)

The heavy gauge bracket that welds to the shock tower was barely spot welded on the drivers side!  It practically fell off with little effort.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/M_dqetyCS0AspccaXpKodrxocswmai3IgwnuRbxfjE5pTHOjnKdhCCkYoArkKWOUYfhQPqtghZPY-c5NLC9xW35wxhe5VdcuTD7HInNbEZ4wJiZmVWnXpxTmDSu3K0-HmB5lhFADXw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LpzwXT3iq3hZ0eU7r1YUVFe3ahVI7ehlR2y-Ix4hfmPCBtkNAErcOdhJk30pRANpEkoF8WPV79j7CneLEaHxbjQOa1hW0nsch9NSDQaxjpOM0ebjosZwt0bjOyVnXbad4l6O6eqyYQ=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 06:12:00 PM
Replaced the badly banged up lower core support and installed the USCT stiffener piece...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_enqfjk8w3FDN0NMCS3VFx3hykh1W8iZIzLF6ScfSVWJCfch4NFLXW9SGGr4TDjjLUJWc_89a_brAj9plOCf0G4d51JaePYFpWd8xix7KIqWUTmxRX52Cx13EcTMRi2SouiUIyd08Q=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aL4lSSPHLrtcaiquVqixRE2QzoIvGskPzBxwDRi8Utd8NX9FpkNOBLZrxbgJsMDY7zgbnW-p7ihvcyAjVq9A7sZz0qcHTsVT1qoP12LOts9mvDfA_Sujgd0JXjkmlEsCLuC2Ca4WLw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zi7U-62GorizS0AeB1eMiu3Zcr365EGovvXbYAyefC-M6YspPKJNGIS86exP4CWCN4yjKuHihCJ40rW-qX0g8dLInASgT4G3vdQKKnjZOj50JgKDP7sci01Yah1DC99YZPQUOJGWGA=w2400)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 06:19:30 PM
Found some really thin metal and hidden rot in the bumper mounting and shock tower area of the front left frame rail...  Took the time to level and square the car up, line up the body panels, and then off it came.  Luckily, I did not finish welding the inner fender to the old rail so it only took a handful of spot welds to removed.

Getting the shock tower, inner fender, and rail all aligned was tricky, but overall not too hard.  The AMD rail was a nice piece.  The shock tower was much thicker than the original.  I used the K frame as another reference point and a way to hold that heavy piece in place while fitting it.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5dCSArDkFs2ZXZZQ3m-NiZtxAAkUejXox3CCW2avKsXsicCeDTXKdMbYvIF31bt-KN67OH3nR2elyPEqgyvORNxabiiduAybbW7zK9CTa5T4s6RYkq1FLVtR7CrYqAgQiL8yh-j8BA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4ntXK4RkvSuix6e1vAtJH9gxwRoLt6Mk-xJ0Sve2CkvYp2Sl5vCPVM7a2AkdEND3-golXVc52IWvh7AnjtQ9ksLmo6BaZSaaFx3IHA9cnNG3THIpBWKFwhi5HH7xQw7Waf74gkImuA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e8ug_seHplAtj0YldnsIJ-FfDNK_y4S3Os9a8sVqC4KeGsqlVzh4sSr2ZQOENcCjbqrE1KV5sI0Tc2j1Uxsykx19YLPaR1igidY4hRvJqVStLLoAG68MAIifQMZ_eSCBbint-1UVyA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5LtQFXk4GtxKqo0CRbdPsto46hy4O-qGLfBxFUUafxvclddf0m-C0H1cQ4k6-jfNO1xBDdyxZwxnnnj7VD8dMHMJKiKMe2p6fybjd8Hu7KWd4ZNeDs2dEpn9YWAj-1uEO00aX_9caQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Bcr3rWiLtYP5l7ISArvUcesY8ghQssxIB5ssOjsrl-NU61WQPXYhCyIQC_iQLhcCRFfamVjRxsX9sHL6VhcRDECduL6IWLTwUZooxPsTdaLYnOBRXRxZuLTKp5tsCaSafL3c43R4UQ=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 06:29:18 PM
Like everything else on this car, the rockers needed work.  I ended up replacing the outer and repairing the inner on the driver side.  I'm not sure what was worse, this or the firewall!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/45TPjdS64gQWUnntzLnRoVBGRpdyHRDCscae7yEC0Mz5YA86XLNIJ4suTxfgwpW-jjLUSm2e__H8StUATU4_1bGI-dX-YsgYel-M4m49m02S-Xn8CynF0hKyxxEmvdoJOMgp6hJgTw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wW_jPa6S-yMEVBt921E56aocbLD2y44SAlj_AN3GzeHseko4kkR5VxEha2TTJ0JX-7Vgtty8WsUeQjhgHge4ZO4nxGOUtKqguMjmXkmTtjFARFNj3YI7XFyeczmJBuCTXF1uYM943w=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OPoyDLXFOYQaQv2yxFjnulAJjDMQabDZo4NcAhsOBszYEDPku9-3BdZTVXnprYqMS_q95kN6qG290f-hrUPdPi4iKGbLxT7bMaetDK3seY4hYmU3O0qj3hfykeqIp3ZdT_ndAXY2BQ=w2400)

Since the wheelhouses were rotten, the quarter came off next.  Unrelated for now, but this 1974 vinyl top car did have lead in the sail panel seams.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r1c99e9yGg8oYnbsQJtV24HSlDNik-54czd4mv3-VfO2NPdibY3WjfeGh0xlu8_ds12OiwbG6IfTB1Nt4Gjr99p1Z8n9GFsP9AF3s2101KdU_7spsFjlbQZZ4IiycvKgWyIi3glyFg=w2400)


And I found out that it had been hit at some point on that side.  That's like an inch of bondo!!!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/R1lny5DfVlqa6yLhYLIWgLAaEkjW7lvvcGNskYIEvqulTIyMRcp_1pqnn2czxJr0fRf2CGupe3zI1mJS3QTrQB6Cbln32oQlff60rtjzVkyw4vJRAQvmLJnHRpi8YgHUxN_BvKhglQ=w2400)

And check out that wheelhouse patch - why even bother?!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/iTWYR5Z7ouJTA33HMO9esTjjjYS0HT_TitDv5rlslGrqH30WrMX_FdmaISP9_VjdMBdazETO2ka1H89MxttJ0HVSkScWaZxpN88ReApbMUsB3m4U6_ltJbEJwOxgX_MFqch1ZDyCdw=w2400)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 06:39:31 PM
1/4 fully removed...

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xKbIYdUr_KGD8Ql0cGx3vrGluHlpMNNQR5vGY1fnbVqsEtlXVp1Su_ynUQ-SLUfEFeDex4DrlFLlSwjG2RHuP4tPj1Qv2cEEvSX4TFUCpPIFoVRCp0UXEhTy8C1ylSNq8ByVJVb5_Q=w2400)

Very early test fit of the new AMD full quarter.  Not too bad.  The rocker seam will need some work though.  Also noteworthy, I replaced the hood since it was rotting bad in the support structure and had broken weld nuts for the hinges.  I decided to change the exterior panels to 1970, so the front valance, fenders, and quarters are different.  Tail panel too, but not installed yet.  I know I'll get heat for it, but I've always loved the 1970 exterior looks and my 1974 grill and tail panel were in rough shape anyways, and there are very few replacement parts for them.  Flame on!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Zd41VqWzS9iRacPQmp1s3wAVtoAcfmTodA9W5yWC9GVR8K-UV62S_DbVCQklrdLcs3aQYAYBZu-Z1szVeCLnjIzmYmV0nzMSHEsW3-tav_p5xYy7Bu2PFTuu1kqS90KLc5Y4GlNuVA=w2400)

New door jamb panel due to rust and really, really crappy welding work from when it was patched after the collision.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/723-BlwL0cbAMrc3NvtsxPoAdGTZc6bzOughmxLw09sbt34yiLYwBXjCc2iXiI7hNiugksdFcZAUmnp58a_GCs9u5TTMfk1TaHLztL4Lr8AsRU2N0d1PJRN_B8TYivrubvSlRf1X3Q=w2400)

More pointless previous patchwork...  Not even sure why they wasted the effort.  It didn't fit, seal, or do anything.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/OOfWOboDy-hYQeXsQew90-Zk_m4nYOrpoM7E2s1yU3z7nIJqka_PA8jiGXNHypLO37xd4QaoSsbXeUhf41dRe8mj7oDNLtzFuRZbRAOQpzPu1VbmEJkOm3616h50TB6Ul3n-7fnvzA=w2400)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 06:55:27 PM
Lots of rust damage out back...  Wheelhouses, trunk pan/extensions, rear crossmember, even the frame rails and rear seat floor had cancer.  All I reused was the shock crossmember and the fuel tank straps.  Taking it apart is soooo much quicker than putting it back together!

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/dW2prQBq1D5nvaYEBp3owWBmvjLiHXqjW1Z9d58YTY37Z87allhI2fJU6xYo_cZDmk0LQisbaKmXP-dG9dSQN_ShBNSYno7RrUE7ZJfTCVf31gqkREBkjvBfevdp6cQnDK66LZmCVg=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3cZfkBQEANDtZfDDry8W5dAMVtL8gpSv6or35Vn0uR6BvtaN_vHxv9J7-r80Im8_kCGZaC4Jnca034YWAZh765ZY0HS5oSj_gtHt8a6eXTjncnPoqxYPaKJCPDlFbj95wi3B5qkRdw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rlT3bya5f1BKLr8vkZ292VyXvczRZP4NSBZ8zMRFbsN8O5M4IvG9L0TqtKykiuiyw0jmPDs6fsSuvGYsIdPSEOmoin1blAmkGIgxa6Rgmg1qUeT6MGOrf3lPGRCYUTm65EOlsueNcQ=w2400)

Instead of replacing everything individually and trying to weld in awkward positions, I opted to remove the rear "frame" out as one piece to mock up the new one side by side.  Interesting note: the Dynacorn rear crossmember I used was way thicker than OE.  I'm ok with that.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GR4B5stKS_NA6ZXYoU9ZiOE_nqPFP40E5SieG5WuEBG9R3uvX33m97L3s7otpL9zdzLSwRuC6peuFFErAYavYzvIwJTH6ZrZAHzT90JVmQuYXTtD6IIrk-Enn97l32oRvmiZQdYnDw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/LdqIk0D0yJcCXG6TnoVLTO4JI-BxnDmmqMVOK0XxVLWeq1I8oGPu6pAaVrIA10Vspy2vX_ibzszDzD8AKx5CaJziK2icIOJs0bLYZdGJ8q1BtdJPEyR4HWm68aUkC5Cv6LDKfpJxLA=w2400)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qcdw5GQKaZMePTUlrnxW09768pXwPdWko4wESF2_jzpOJvwXrCTwPe05eLK4c093B5aBLRd4LGEq8hw9XKv-szLrMOw0fJ8Gy2rAnqJ-hSXLVjG1m7utwM6ckyjrkuNsXI0XVpQ5og=w2400)

Getting the new coilover crossmember and leaf spring mounts in.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cq5yr9AtsKHRvWqjAG-3MJDWq1luSNhEjalSVrVjUS0wpmPNmlzi5l1OqD7EP6SU6qTFjeWFoMEQdIaihmPBA8YK1PlwGVUUt5rTSfvtIHqwceX5lYMDrWzYPg4RCB1q2rfIzZii2g=w2400)

The rear seat floor fit ok, but had some issues to be addressed.  The seat belt buckle nuts were the wrong size, and the lower seat brackets were wrong, among other things.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BYeHgBq8yn3RbrpQlXh7m-1ND-gru8VfAk6A4Y78Ksn3QvC9RJ0vfAMixGNFW-O0-xgFhr5d4ZirH6F_N25w1XHzFSqItHPaT1wtuwdSU001G9y0ci1Wt5hnsoWoFKnvEAa7C2LE_g=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/W-zk-wgsUq4dYPUsJ2TSTVwXq7n9estj-aHi9emv_mvoTkSJCO1BMUO3IgqUoZbX7uyE_TGhYo3GdQEQBQZbNoyFlALHsyXaJdLAKodOnpj-AJQgeBw5DyEm6XD2T0g5wvppG8zbXg=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 07:03:55 PM
New rear frame installed and epoxy/weld primed.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/fc4sEabXXGyLsEAHmMcrfq2wOFOIcOrEancN83m39Qf_YjSvfRmFRcA-XHgwtQ3Zfi9n9E6EbkFunzKzkugg_5e6-VvTa3AjLdLIfTWF0wUQLB33X8rUfnibJVEwlLMDYRsoUulMZQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HuT2bUHTUPPtAPvhTmV6WU-6j-MUqhY003NvG3k71o10F_eEuCsQsPiQ7T6_s57cHGHqZdtKy7QvHZTB1tmj6GsYP_eD1XutbfNfs9KvU7IOX-09mw7j8DE-r_0sdidRsSj7FiQyNA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_I9SGQKR-D3rTzGnBN2_UCHGlgDHt3lC0wpe4BzFFqtQkoWlip0nP4jmJAY_LBvdnMM3pCMbofFiZ0MUZP8kKdKAm845CtRnRVyuvuppE3qwjmwsJNMS19ZBOxnO8JB7JS7TPOCwZQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/r60c9wqiR8onsE1Mcu_TUK5PuR-Dontyl-BH2mnRN9QMXNOtod5ukwM3HvMfl9VH7T6i35pgFpfsA02gPRYL7FUMJ64AFmW-f4miLkLj3Pf3M_FVXVuGmhTlqHSyA269OWaUxnXHVQ=w2400)

Inboard spring (lower link in this case) relocation install.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Le-NEQFlo8_V63k8AMWln18Ft_fuCaE_Ddp4rTK_CnwHWI8JrFfcANY9wsHFhCYPtavV2V32dZxC6ISI9-SVp1SXTVFB1Q5LaExbz0JXSEcVsBStc4O5FoAbtlRSUncfqTj4IG10Ow=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Y7JCbfCMqxpTHcetF3tkMUxiBgQIhzW040e_IUggMMEWQhkrEo3qeHUgy12kW5bu9L0Zsp2_aq54F-Ea2zkCsieIyIFrSwzuVWBEnlAhSMJikPt9CxfCLdo7WrG9l6Vxk0BZDkGpPw=w2400)

Rear seat and trunk floors finally installed:

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/9myJPycdI-5VIiUCQWrdxo-pJhX4CG8Ywsr-pFOc8C_22ZZ9KwhHPOZqwBLsr59qqclZ1omXsPwWd-m5T5R3V6TP5ONBSE0VJKHC0YNBEV4WSX_JzkX5xsU-bTU1u7nWkChgVczseQ=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 07:11:44 PM
I wasn't too impressed with the way the wheelhouses fit, particularly the inner.  Good thing they were getting cut up to mini tub!  The frame notch, while scary, was relatively painless.  I used panel bond on the trunk floor to extension flange too.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T5IGuJB69YbEJU_p1TSTzDtj0Vu2PKpaHnPvnapOPAVvq8HD7Pb4Dj3kpLllNgcvitocJ6gr6pzXFUsWKw3oqbTY2Wx7bxpqqgLqNXNmlTEg4vQICcQWlpnpdH6NL3lAIljqTqm_ug=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/z2PqJ-eGsFwRPvDb-M8-ITn1cLsGTSAmQ_tTQpg5nwZabBvE0Y4Ckj2uzWSmEeRCT4RsNUrw5WXi7Gh3SK75Aum0wRZ7e6r1sNP6osRJ3AHSnt_kNjgA9PBZyDn4xwUnzOKVIfHMFg=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ij75ohW2iqNEP9q-8XVc8PSEEHSTwiH4OsTOUtW1F6qv38AxUQeNq4TOkLJKp6Y2oWYEnhfVJbA1rOSbL99B1_5wOAo0jhjcq4Qvhe1tv5eu586Pzrn-jQvaO-johijKW0UOPGPmCQ=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3i-LC566uUTYdY6yFRvb7W0yWlJ2RNf4hcbTQoPmMTZHbGNCrqn2zPJkaYnD9WfVIwMZJ_F854jQ_7ao4bQLk0GhUJMStY--mV5NO2s9EoaWMzwHMIp01bu6AdpLTQv01FaEW-uvlA=w2400)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/cARdh1niJk00OvTCqPM5DSEnKjzuZbH7dlPdXlJHZBrLYUFBtjT4xagdHE5CHkCIoen4jHBxEUWg4guApijlw4RBNciKi8b4k8ory-p0rbU8r1tDhfk-5OYtRW9sihj943TsHWOwKg=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tkhRGzy_jqxALjRVRMrQ9x2SN0EXCne9mixK6AQ2fkES7JBixRLWkRSs-EH1M806OgFjn_qCEL_6NdFIsI603nz-bF1w_cfS4PenLA5uhcPjuRQDvoVzTXuuOglpn5Sn8UAM6siriA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/QIKmNC_RsQ78mc6y2PUoBWLFp6jz9xH8s-OzbzaIDyTSV0bglhncdsEdBIbCUeIGEamSoG5LWsMxnanlE0nTeqykpQIKWA13PoM9hacqbywHk-xKnxTxVOl_8pNKHHhKUiwpQPEm9g=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Katfish on December 08, 2019, 07:13:13 PM
Wow, you are knee deep into this,
Impressive work, keep the pics coming.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 07:21:29 PM
Basically in real time now.  Sooo close to getting that 1/4 hung!  I did another mockup with the quarter and have more tweaking before I weld and/or glue it on.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/p4nDTH8uwoaPyeNII1gwaczBRRrwUP5HvUUGQhfJk0gfTxLsqXgrtiV6VsIIkcob2yn0ltdwNVp5uTsJap0Q78daCfvN2oxzQ_9owRoUq1B5hymkJxLbD75UStnNXoSi_GyhraQyXw=w2400)

Rust encapsulated the surface rusted areas.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A165FVm3DHnPfOSybTRC80921VpryWQb5umQg-u1FoXOYMO2_aV1S0V7dSxgjoK7n_9rpi4Rl4_XaASK5v7fB5F-NlSIBej4o0N-Z4nMgM3KqwTvvtFF19H4ct2gaV5alTIqWK7cZg=w2400)

Epoxy primed.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3q3JJidnJ9_Gt19oZ16qQTEsMLs16YSrwgksDF2buWuzqiJkj7zpm_94HUv-IfuRx0FM6MzGVy1zfcHV-VIBG_m9ijd22228YWu2Ssa05V2YIcQkFnLoejDl_lz46Jo7H8838XC0YA=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EnP5ytXAEZFxiyG2Bz6F2WkCrkZS0Hxr23IbXFn0U_WiJARJOZtz7WqxajKOlabKzhQjlrI8tXS8bx2Hm313nua42nChBmJ1B2GBOgScvD3l7QLoMtGx2lUJRlWH8BPQbCWaaGzuDg=w2400)

I used 2 part 3M heavy bodied epoxy seam sealer for the joints that won't be accessible after the quarter is hung.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MOlFnjH0fyEBKjHLOGE3lyh0CqMn48FsFuH1wx6KGTlF-t8zHVxvcRxBs3dmLl-6q7pnbu66-1S4sj3GOTErsUgJmnidtj_EMCPrXcjtAplnBhKqPYsO8d5cwzxrVR6oj64jkV0p5w=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2SDMDPYN6RxnZllD2z99BtKN_5-UqxRadx0EWpmxXY0U4pj994-slweVlQO2Z2QhqHsWXA1YQKhlYhAWayHQKgXEfDWGklRzdBblO2830tEJE9uvg8eAf95QRiKjUkq8N70r0uvBZQ=w2400)

Undercoated and sound deadening with Resto Rick's special mix.  I'm amazed at how fast this stuff cures!  It was setting up in my spray gun already as soon as the pot was empty.  It lays down real nice though.

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/3UdwEWb2DiONn3PnzlXWlrN_LwrKSCeS3rxjkLX3W06nbN2IGoDDueLOPKuS6TVNPLtUiiyT5fLxvFMcX3TzEAZr90dEin9pf9hobF0em_3HWNduZRcsE0XTmJJA_-IJzAPwEw9Ajw=w2400)

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/zlR0EZKduIPjJAZsm0bIt4Mt-Ub0dJAETOJQdVCmEQSyeTL-XDb8g2nUkprMXgMR3_jKrECW_vgJg3M_fFkbsKtG5HW5DNELuo6h3QAwNaJpWBtxLzLSzQ_4JTHt1De6uTjWNclczA=w2400)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on December 08, 2019, 07:26:17 PM
Jesus! For a guy who started by saying that you didn't know anything about bodywork, you're going to graduate magna cum laude when you're finished here, laddie! Great photos and they actually gave me a wee chill as I did pretty much what you're doing on my own '74, right down to the bonding/welding of the firewall/cowl. I changed the right rail and installed the inners and outer hinge panels as well. When I saw the first pics with Clecos in it, I knew you were no pilgrim and you're doing a hell of a great job and plowing through it! I wish sometimes that I'd converted my tin over to '70 style, but it is what it is and you're going to have a fabulous car when you're done. Make sure to trial fit your doors and deck lid before you finalize your welding in those areas. I used bond kits for a lot of the seam sealing and sealed every GD seam under the car as well, because we both know that wherever there's a spot for water to enter on these cars, that there's going to be rust- and that's a non-starter after going to all this work! Well done and roll on with the repairs and the great pics!!  :bigthumb:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Chryco Psycho on December 08, 2019, 07:39:08 PM
 :rubeyes:Nice work  :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 08, 2019, 07:45:08 PM
Jesus! For a guy who started by saying that you didn't know anything about bodywork, you're going to graduate magna cum laude when you're finished here, laddie! Great photos and they actually gave me a wee chill as I did pretty much what you're doing on my own '74, right down to the bonding/welding of the firewall/cowl. I changed the right rail and installed the inners and outer hinge panels as well. When I saw the first pics with Clecos in it, I knew you were no pilgrim and you're doing a hell of a great job and plowing through it! I wish sometimes that I'd converted my tin over to '70 style, but it is what it is and you're going to have a fabulous car when you're done. Make sure to trial fit your doors and deck lid before you finalize your welding in those areas. I used bond kits for a lot of the seam sealing and sealed every GD seam under the car as well, because we both know that wherever there's a spot for water to enter on these cars, that there's going to be rust- and that's a non-starter after going to all this work! Well done and roll on with the repairs and the great pics!!  :bigthumb:

Thank you!!!  And I will most definitely be fitting everything before hanging that quarter.  I found out pretty fast that basically none of these parts just drop right in and fit, well, maybe the trunk pan was the exception.... It darn near fell into place perfectly.  Totally agree on the sealing part...  I'm using panel bond wherever it makes sense, and judicious amounts of SEM Copper weld through primer wherever I MIG.

Yeah, prior to this I have not done one ounce of body or paint work.  The thought always made me cringe.  But so does a $100K body shop bill!  I didn't even have any real welding experience prior to this.  Quick learner I guess...  I definitely made (and consequently had to correct) some mistakes early on.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JpRngr on December 08, 2019, 08:21:51 PM
Wow, doing a heluva job so far!!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: nsmall on December 08, 2019, 09:03:00 PM
 :fingerscrossed:. It may take all you have, but you are getting closer.  Way to be all in.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 10, 2019, 07:10:32 PM
I'm starting to mock up the new tail panel, and one of the things I've struggled with the most on this resto has been the fact that when I measure anything from side to side I tend to get pretty big differences.  I know tolerances were loose back in the day on these, but it often leaves me 2nd guessing myself since I rarely have a reference point I feel comfortable about relying on.

Could anybody take some measurements of the width and depth of the trunk opening?  I measured from gutter to gutter, at the alignment notch, and near the tail panel before the curve and came up with 51 7/8".  Measuring from decklid filler lip to tail panel lip I got 21" on the LH side and center with the OLD panel, and 21 3/8" on the RH side.  Obviously, that's a pretty significant amount of variation, and it's on the side I am pretty sure has never been hit too!  Diagonal is hard to measure with the curves.

The new panel is giving me similar measurements as well (21 1/8"), but also appears to be bowed in the center a bit too.  No big deal and I'm sure I can work it, but I need to know what is right.

Lastly, if anybody could confirm that the lock support panel is NOT centered in the trunk I'd appreciate it!  Mine is roughly an inch closer to the right hand side.  I am absolutely certain it is where it was originally (I lined it up perfectly with the spot weld cutter holes on the original tail panel, clamped it in, and welded it to the floor and nothing moved), but it just seems odd that they would do that.  I'm pretty sure my car was built on New Years' Day or July 5th, so would like to correct any misbuild issues now.

Just as an FYI, most of my frame measurements BEFORE repairs were anywhere from 1/4" to closer to 1/2" different from side to side.  Now they are more like 1/8" to 1/4".  Whatever happened when it got hit on the right rear side seems to have been isolated to damage in the quarter, wheelhouse, and tail panel corner at least. 

Thanks in advance!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: ClarkWGrizwald on December 11, 2019, 11:55:07 AM
First off----DAMN!!!
GREAT JOB!
Thats a big ass can of worms you opened. But it looks like you are just getting shit done! Way to go!

Second- where are you exactly located? You can PM me if you prefer. I ask because I am in the NW burbs and i have a mint 74 cuda that's all original and rust free that you maybe able to use for some of your reference point measures. I know some things are diffeent on a cuda vs challenger but if you need a car....i got one you are welcome to measure off of. 

Keep up the great work!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 17, 2019, 01:28:21 PM
First off----DAMN!!!
GREAT JOB!
Thats a big ass can of worms you opened. But it looks like you are just getting shit done! Way to go!

Second- where are you exactly located? You can PM me if you prefer. I ask because I am in the NW burbs and i have a mint 74 cuda that's all original and rust free that you maybe able to use for some of your reference point measures. I know some things are diffeent on a cuda vs challenger but if you need a car....i got one you are welcome to measure off of. 

Keep up the great work!

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

I appreciate the offer!  I live near the Rt. 66 racetrack actually.  If I run across anything I know is the same between models that needs verification I'll definitely take you up on it!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Cudakiller70 on December 17, 2019, 02:08:40 PM
Awesome work! Keep posting!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 17, 2019, 06:51:03 PM
ADD kicked in and I decided to strip the roof down to see how bad the rust was, and if I could repair it or needed to order a new skin.  Luckily, it is in great shape for a vinyl top car!!!

(https://i.imgur.com/SkNeBVr.jpg)

The drip rails are excellent too.

(https://i.imgur.com/ise0mRO.jpg)

There are some pitted spots near both windows that will need repair though...  How hard and what approach should I take given the intricate bends and visibility of this spot?  Most of my patches are not visible, thank god.  I can't believe nobody makes patches for these rust prone spots.

(https://i.imgur.com/FMyjiFk.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/AwVfNqb.jpg)

The decklid filler has some damage, but I think it's plenty repairable and will be under the glass and sealant so I'm a lot less worried about repairing that.

I threw some epoxy primer on it (poorly) to keep it from rusting until I get ready to repair it.

(https://i.imgur.com/L6SALDW.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on December 17, 2019, 07:01:52 PM
It's really coming along good ! :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 17, 2019, 07:02:42 PM
Also installed the LH subframe connector and rear torque box.  I'm planning on reinforcing the car as much as possible before I start on the right hand side since I'll be doing the inner and outer rockers.  The subframe connector took a LOT of grinding.  The rear torque box took surprisingly little.  The front one is next, and it looks like it'll take a lot of work to fit.  I epoxy and weld primed the insides of everything and plan on hitting them with Eastwood Internal Frame Coating when ready as well.  Luckily, the subframe connector has drain holes and positions right under a body plug, so I should be able to coat the entire length.

(https://i.imgur.com/iyjEkV8.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/oh6FL5y.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/yGGXnjx.jpg)


Finally got this thing on wheels and mobile for the first time in a year as well - tail panel is up next.

(https://i.imgur.com/Ubqi22f.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on December 17, 2019, 08:53:30 PM
Your last couple of posts the photos never loaded correctly it seems. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress!  :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 18, 2019, 02:14:36 PM
Your last couple of posts the photos never loaded correctly it seems. I'm looking forward to seeing your progress!  :cheers:

Which posts with pics can't you see?  They look fine on my end.  Is anyone else having trouble viewing them?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: ClarkWGrizwald on December 18, 2019, 05:21:29 PM
Post 29 no pics showing....empty boxes

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 18, 2019, 05:54:53 PM
Teething issues from using Google Photos, I suppose....  Could someone check post 26 and let me know if it is working again?  If it is, I'll fix 28 as well.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 18, 2019, 09:08:00 PM
Wow you had jumped in thoroughly there.
Attention to your steps shows you are on correct path. As offered earlier. Mine is an unmolested original 74 Challenger if you need anything measured or pictured.

Body unmolested but...
360 w/magnum accessories w/MS3X and LS coils in the works.
How does your setup run?

Mike.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 19, 2019, 07:05:53 AM
Wow you had jumped in thoroughly there.
Attention to your steps shows you are on correct path. As offered earlier. Mine is an unmolested original 74 Challenger if you need anything measured or pictured.

Body unmolested but...
360 w/magnum accessories w/MS3X and LS coils in the works.
How does your setup run?

Mike.

It runs quite well!  I have a custom made Jeep CMP sensor in the distributor location so it is full sequential.  I use a Hall sensor with a custom bracket reading a custom made 36-1 trigger wheel that bolts to the back of the crank pulley.  Drives great, starts like a new car, runs like one, and I get low to mid 20's MPG when cruising.  I have dual widebands and utilize closed loop controls for that and idle.  I also have an FRP sensor, dual knock sensors, and an EOP sensor so I can enable derates and engine shutdown protection modes.  My MS3X controls IAC, A/C, low/high fans, a number of warning lights, launch control, and talks to the MS2 based TCM as well.

If it weren't for the power limitations of 40+ year old Mopar SB tech, I'd probably stick with it.  But I'm really wanting more power and a warrantied, modern production Hellcrate with factory engineered and readily available parts is very tempting.  My current build is cool, but the level of frankensteining and aftermarket/ancient tech parts makes me hesitant to road trip it.  I also don't want to run a race block and heads; if I spend that much money I want better HP return on it and would just go 3G Hemi or Big Block.

Can someone confirm if the pics on Post 26 are working now??
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JonH on December 19, 2019, 07:23:22 AM
Don't know how you tell what # each post is but no, pics don't show on next to last post on 2nd page.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JS29 on December 19, 2019, 07:32:00 AM
Reply # 28 = nothing on my end.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 19, 2019, 09:35:54 AM
Yea the pics are still not working.
Most of what you have is my setup also.
Crank trigger, 302 cam trigger also. All wired and plumbed in but life has been in the way from actually firing it with MS.
Will stick with my Frankenstein. And... some turbos on a 5.9 Magnum.
I have a build on here if you have some free time.

Your build though is unbelievable. Especially for the low loved 74s.

Mike.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: usraptor on December 19, 2019, 09:38:40 AM
Wow! Just found this post and to say I'm impressed would be an understatement.  :worship: :clapping: Especially for a first attempt at body work. First to answer your question, no the pics still haven't posted.  After seeing all the rot/cancer on your car, I'm feeling even more fortunate that for a Utah car all I needed to replace on my car was the trunk floor pan and dutchman panel. We did the quarters due to prior collision damage.  I'm beginning to think my original owner didn't drive it during the winters but considering it had over 100K miles on the clock and was parked in 1983 I don't know.  :dunno:  Anyway, great job, especially of bracing everything before removing panels.  Keep up the good work and keep the pics coming.  :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 19, 2019, 02:15:44 PM
Thank you! Ok, I gave up and went to IMGUR.  Hopefully you can see them now.  I'll upload more tonight.  I mocked up the 1/4, tail panel, lights, trunk lid, and trunk gutters.  Overall, looking pretty good, but I need to get the rear end of the quarter inboard more and it won't since the trunk extension seems to be interfering with it.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 19, 2019, 07:00:44 PM
I wanted to mock up everything out back before even thinking about installing the tail panel and 1/4.  The tail panel needed some dremel work for the lock cylinder hole, and I think the LH tail lamp holes need to be opened up a hair as well. 

(https://i.imgur.com/oTKEDOt.jpg)

I have a few issues to resolve with the 1/4 fitment though.  Probably the biggest one being this huge difference in width (or height?) between the door and 1/4.  Not sure which one is at fault since my old quarter was hacked and the body lines slathered under an inch of bondo.

(https://i.imgur.com/f1bzeEW.jpg)

The gaps taper a lot too.  Wide up top and too close on the bottom.

(https://i.imgur.com/v2m4Hff.jpg)

Next issue is that the 1/4 needs to come in a bit more toward the back.  I believe the tail panel and trunk extension are the issue, though I'm not sure how to resolve it.  The tail panel is as far to the passenger side as possible and butted up to that quarter inside.  Should I grind the perimeter of the tail panel on the driver side a little to allow the 1/4 to come in?

(https://i.imgur.com/yo4fSY3.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/oTVJM7g.jpg)

Not sure if I have an issue in this body line or not...  It looks like it should be flat, but when I hold the trim piece up to the panel it follows the same line.

(https://i.imgur.com/zxhTDu7.jpg)

The bumper seems to fit ok and the same on both sides at least.

(https://i.imgur.com/xxvC5zh.jpg)

The wheel well and front of the trunk extension seem to mate up to the 1/4 pretty well - I think.

(https://i.imgur.com/vs5LeNr.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/M3LdHUd.jpg)

The quarter also seems to bottom out on the end of the trunk extension a bit too, and the holes for the valence stud do not line up well at all.  They line up with the 1/4 holes, but the trunk extension ones are definitely off.  Not sure what to do here either...

(https://i.imgur.com/7eSy8Z6.jpg)

Did they change the way the decklid filler to quarter seam welds in the later cars?  On my quarter, that lip is horizontal, but on my old one and the decklid filler it was vertical, as shown below.  I'll need to figure that out too.

(https://i.imgur.com/54yNPIX.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Cuda Cody on December 19, 2019, 08:32:04 PM
WOW, Very nicely done.   :clapping:   :bravo:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 19, 2019, 10:27:53 PM
Yes it appears you will need some slicing to bring things in.
Someone on another thread had issue with the lower rear window panel being too wide preventing quarter from coming in enough.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 20, 2019, 07:11:18 AM
Yes it appears you will need some slicing to bring things in.
Someone on another thread had issue with the lower rear window panel being too wide preventing quarter from coming in enough.

I don't think the decklid filler is the issue on mine, luckily.  The 1/4 wants to slide in more, but it is bottoming out and hitting the outer edge of the tail panel and trunk extension.  I'm going to confirm that the tail panel is centered on the rear crossmember, and if so, grind down the outer edge of the driver side so the quarter can come in more.  If it's not centered, I'll grind down the passenger side to get it to slide over more.

I'll still have to deal with the trunk extension holes lining up, but it should get my seam gaps tighter hopefully.

Any ideas on what's going on with the door to 1/4?  I'm not sure if my door is bent (wouldn't surprise me on this car) or if the 1/4 is at fault, and not sure how I would fix it either.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: RUNCHARGER on December 20, 2019, 07:37:06 AM
I don't have a Challenger door right now but from memory it looks like the quarter needs adjusting on it's top six inches. Draw a profile of the right door onto a piece of cardboard  then cut it out with scissors and compare it to the drivers door and see if they're the same.
Right now the quarter is drooping down along the top of it along the trunk seam and along the quarter window surface.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JS29 on December 20, 2019, 07:42:40 AM
Dose the quarter panel contour follow along with the striker panel contour? did you grind the striker panel, or is the paint line still visible. If the door is in question, look at the skin ware it wraps around the door frame and see if that looks natural or stretched.   :alan2cents:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 20, 2019, 08:35:49 AM
Thanks for the advice everyone!  I'll check it out and report back.  I'm fairly confident the RH side hasn't been hacked before, so I'm thinking that I should be able to measure from the quarter inner structure to the skin outside and compare it to the LH side in addition to the other checks to determine what is at fault.  The doors are not original for sure either since the insides are still painted different colors, but the RH side doesn't appear to be covered in bondo.  The driver side is so bad that you cannot even see the lower body line across most of it, so who knows what happened to that piece earlier in life.  I'm honestly surprised I haven't found any patches made with beer cans and stop signs yet.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 20, 2019, 07:16:17 PM
If only the one side was hammered I suggest making a cardboard cutout that follows contour of passenger side door and or quarter. See how it matches up to drivers side. That should give you the answer.
To me the door has appearance of not having correct contour.
Pics are all original build and paint.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on December 20, 2019, 08:09:09 PM
Man, you've got a few issues going on here. Who's 1/4 is that? To my eye, the 1/4- as photographed- looks low in relation to the door, but you can only go up about an 1/8" or so before you lose the door to 1/4 bodyline match. The 1/4 looks like it's concave at the upper door to 1/4 and you may have to nibble some narrow pie cuts into the inner flange to allow the panel to bow out sufficiently to match the door contour. Try loosening the vicegrip on the rocker flange and stick a good sized screwdriver between the lower edge of the door to 1/4 and see if you can walk it back to get a gap. The 1/4 looks to want to go in tighter to the upper trunk panel and the flanges on that and the 1/4 are vertical and are meant to be welded to each other. You may be able to get some 'grips on those flanges and pinch them together better and that'll close your left 1/4 to deck lid gap. The deck to 1/4 gaps don't look too bad and you have to remember that these cars were fitted like crap from the factory, so if you're using an inexpensive AM 1/4 panel and expecting modern day fits, you're in for some slicing and dicing laddie. And that doesn't take into account the prior damage that you've referred to. Pull the 1/4 down tight to the wheelhouse and see where that takes you in regards to the trunk extension. The 1/4 flange is way too skinny at the rear bottom as it should cover the whlhse flange- and it doesn't. No biggie there as you can weld it in and bronze is just the ticket to fill and grind nicely. I wouldn't've welded in the whlhse before fitting the 1/4, but it's a wee bit late in the day to go there, eh? Keep wiggling, prying, cutting and torquing and see where you get. Good luck.  :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 23, 2019, 02:06:12 PM
Yeah, I'm not too thrilled with this piece at all.  It's an AMD full quarter.  I messed with it all day today and was able to get the decklid filler and decklid gaps tighter.  Ended up grinding down the tail panel a bit and cutting a slice into the 1/4 flange to get it sucked in and flush fitting.  The 1/4 is butted up tight to the bottom and side of the rocker now, and the wheelhouse flange is perfect except for that overhang where the trunk extension sticks out past the lip.  It's bottomed out against the 1/4 so I can't pull it in anymore.  I can trim that down though.

(https://i.imgur.com/JY2AITc.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/GIGWX0d.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/79xgvTT.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/GxhNnEF.jpg)

I'm still at a loss on what to so with the front of this panel.  I unscrewed the door jamb to 1/4 flange and the door and 1/4 are almost flush now, but the 1/4 is waaaay too far out when compared to the passenger side at the door jamb pillar end.  I measured the gap at the door jamb pillar to 1/4 flange, and also the gap between the inner and outer 1/4 window flanges on both sides. 

(https://i.imgur.com/hWrtQMx.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/1DEWjo7.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/mCjcwLC.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/Bh854E1.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/iuBD7d4.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/xrn6hMg.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/afhxvOU.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/eE0aZEc.jpg)

You can see how it fits closely at the bottom, and quickly gets too wide from the door jamb toward the top - unscrewed.

(https://i.imgur.com/iengX8M.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/7qv3OFF.jpg)

The door doesn't appear to be reskinned, but I'm thinking it has to be the issue now since the side to side 1/4 to jamb pillar and window track measurements are so far off.  When the piece was screwed in, the two sides measurements are pretty even.  The door to quarter gap is still a mess too, and the quarter sits a little higher than the door even though the body lines are aligned pretty close.  Some of that is the bend line isn't as sharp of an angle as it should be though.

(https://i.imgur.com/hdkHt24.jpg)

Initially, I thought the rear end sagged somehow when working on it and that's why the door gap is so badly tapered, but I saved a piece of the old sail panel and it lines up perfectly with the new piece that is fitted and the existing body, so I don't think that is the issue.  Ignore my pathetic attempt at epoxy priming the roof - it's just for temporary protection and I have ZERO intentions of painting it myself.  That's where I throw in the towel!

(https://i.imgur.com/skNH6NB.jpg)

I also can't get the 1/4 to trunk extension holes to line up.  They're closer now, but I cannot get them lined up without getting really ignorant with the panels.  LOL.  Fun times.

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: nsmall on December 23, 2019, 10:21:32 PM
Sorry, not a body guy, cant help you at this point.    These cars can really drive a person mad.  Take your time and if you have to hire someone to help or give advice it might be worth your sanity.   :bradsthumb:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Mr Lee on December 24, 2019, 05:44:20 AM
Dude, youíre my hero.  Despite the problems youíre having w alignment, kudos for even taking on all that work and hell of a job man!  That car is gonna be solid when youre done. 
Sorry, Iím not an experienced body guy either.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 24, 2019, 08:35:27 PM
I think at this point you should take some measurements off the frame to ensure it is not twisted.
Also you can take several cross measurements from inside cabin up front at a pillars. Front of doors rear of doors and then back at the striker jam area. Something like roof across and down to base. Also from lower jamb areas up to the window channel levels. This can give you a lot of comparison numbers from left to right. It is even possible your drivers door is twisted. Measure across low to high and high to low.
Good luck.
Mike.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on December 25, 2019, 04:15:52 AM
Great work!! And excellent pictures, just read the whole thread. Doing quarters myself right now (I am a newbie at body work also) and I realise I have to put the fenders and hood on to really check the gaps before I weld anything. I have a question about the panel bound and plug welding combo you did with the firewall, I like the idea of having it completely sealed between the welds. When you combine them, how does the welds affect the glue? Do you apply weld primer just at the plug weld spots? Or maybe I misunderstood and you are welding some areas and glueing others?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 25, 2019, 06:56:59 AM
I think at this point you should take some measurements off the frame to ensure it is not twisted.
Also you can take several cross measurements from inside cabin up front at a pillars. Front of doors rear of doors and then back at the striker jam area. Something like roof across and down to base. Also from lower jamb areas up to the window channel levels. This can give you a lot of comparison numbers from left to right. It is even possible your drivers door is twisted. Measure across low to high and high to low.
Good luck.
Mike.

Good call...  I know that my measurements are good on the frame sheet, but those are just a handful of the structural areas.  It's entirely possible that the other parts of the body are not square.  I'll definitely do that!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 25, 2019, 07:08:56 AM
Great work!! And excellent pictures, just read the whole thread. Doing quarters myself right now (I am a newbie at body work also) and I realise I have to put the fenders and hood on to really check the gaps before I weld anything. I have a question about the panel bound and plug welding combo you did with the firewall, I like the idea of having it completely sealed between the welds. When you combine them, how does the welds affect the glue? Do you apply weld primer just at the plug weld spots? Or maybe I misunderstood and you are welding some areas and glueing others?

Yeah, I'd mock up darn near EVERYTHING before installing them.  Valance, trim, door, hood, fender, etc.

Regarding the panel bond, you can SPOT weld through it, but you absolutely cannot MIG weld through it.  It can't take the heat and will make for a horrible quality weld along with burning up around it.  The product instructions will tell you that any MIG welding needs to be at least a few inches away from the panel bond.

I wouldn't waste time spot welding through it though either...  I did on the cowl sides because it was the only area I could get my cheapo clunky spot welder full access to, but without a professional spot welder that hydraulically clamps and adjusts current to ensure a consistent weld, you're probably getting very inconsistent welds with some of them hardly bonding and others overpenetrating.

The panel bond by itself is far stronger than spot welding as it is given the surface area of a whole flange instead of a few touch points.

For a panel where I do both plug welding and glue, I apply weld primer only to the areas to be welded ensuring that the glued areas will be far enough from the heat.  You'll need to strip the areas to be glued down to bare metal.  After that, all you do is apply a bead to each side, smear it to cover all bare metal, and clamp away!  Unbelievably easy and time saving to use - in the right places.

If you need to use screws to hold parts together during gluing you can remove them after it cures still and fill the holes with more epoxy.  Don't try to weld them closed or you'll destroy the bond.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on December 25, 2019, 07:39:01 AM
Yeah, I'd mock up darn near EVERYTHING before installing them.  Valance, trim, door, hood, fender, etc.

Regarding the panel bond, you can SPOT weld through it, but you absolutely cannot MIG weld through it.  It can't take the heat and will make for a horrible quality weld along with burning up around it.  The product instructions will tell you that any MIG welding needs to be at least a few inches away from the panel bond.

I wouldn't waste time spot welding through it though either...  I did on the cowl sides because it was the only area I could get my cheapo clunky spot welder full access to, but without a professional spot welder that hydraulically clamps and adjusts current to ensure a consistent weld, you're probably getting very inconsistent welds with some of them hardly bonding and others overpenetrating.

The panel bond by itself is far stronger than spot welding as it is given the surface area of a whole flange instead of a few touch points.

For a panel where I do both plug welding and glue, I apply weld primer only to the areas to be welded ensuring that the glued areas will be far enough from the heat.  You'll need to strip the areas to be glued down to bare metal.  After that, all you do is apply a bead to each side, smear it to cover all bare metal, and clamp away!  Unbelievably easy and time saving to use - in the right places.

If you need to use screws to hold parts together during gluing you can remove them after it cures still and fill the holes with more epoxy.  Don't try to weld them closed or you'll destroy the bond.

Thanks Dmod, thats what I suspected, I will get some panelbond anyways for my next project, working on my 70 conv. now, but the next one (a -73) will need a firewall/cowl. The lower cowl to firewall flange seems lika a good place for glue, lots of water gets in there.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 27, 2019, 12:20:15 PM
Update: I really couldn't find anything glaringly wrong with the body measurements, but I do think I have the issue mostly narrowed down.  The replacement door jamb pillar needs rework.  After hammering on the flange in opposing directions at the top and bottom I was able to get the lower door to 1/4 gap wider and the upper tighter.  I think the flange needs to come outward at the top as well and the two panels will be flush.

(https://i.imgur.com/plItBJI.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/8THvmEd.jpg)

It's not where it needs to be yet, but it's definitely a lot better than before.   :dunno:  Before the lower was so tight that the door was actually rubbing with everything clamped in place.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 27, 2019, 01:53:30 PM
As you have already proven you know.
Step by step by step by step.
Eventually you will get it there.
With gaps close and surfaces aligned, you then have the option to add and subtract from the actual door edge for tje level of perfection you ultimately want.

Mike.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on December 27, 2019, 10:06:19 PM
Is the 1/4 lip at the door/1/4 lower 90' from the face of the 1/4? Sometimes they can get bent in and then they'll contact the lock pillar prematurely while eating up the clearance you need for the proper door-1/4 gap. If it is, then you'll have to take a block of wood and set the lock pillar back the needed amount. If you have access to one, a bodyman's jack would make a good push to the lower corner pushing the 1/4 back to get a decent gap. If you can't get any more movement at that upper area, you could make a couple of narrow (1/8") pie cuts in the flange to allow the panel to curve to where you want it. They're easily welded up afterwards. Looks like you're getting there!  :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on December 30, 2019, 12:21:37 PM
Is the 1/4 lip at the door/1/4 lower 90' from the face of the 1/4? Sometimes they can get bent in and then they'll contact the lock pillar prematurely while eating up the clearance you need for the proper door-1/4 gap. If it is, then you'll have to take a block of wood and set the lock pillar back the needed amount. If you have access to one, a bodyman's jack would make a good push to the lower corner pushing the 1/4 back to get a decent gap. If you can't get any more movement at that upper area, you could make a couple of narrow (1/8") pie cuts in the flange to allow the panel to curve to where you want it. They're easily welded up afterwards. Looks like you're getting there!  :cheers:

I ended up making some cuts in the pillar flange and quarter along with reworking the wheelhouse flange to get it fitted up.  Additionally, I ended up moving the striker outward.  I would have thought that would have made the flushness issue worse, but it did the opposite!  Figure that one out!  The only thing I can think of is that the door latch was not fully latching despite feeling otherwise before.  Now it locks up tight and like the other side with no play at all.  It let the door get sucked in more and after all of that the two panels were almost perfectly flush and the gap even top to bottom!  I'll probably scoot the door and fender back a bit eventually to tighten it even more, but I'm not bothering with that until I replace the door skin and probably screw up the work I just did today, LOL.

(https://i.imgur.com/FRNmzMe.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/KfF86QR.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/mFTwEDz.jpg)

I still have work to do with the trunk extension - that's my next task on getting this stupid panel hung and moving onto hopefully easier things.  The quarter needs to come in more but it can't since there is a spot on the rear of the trunk extension that I need to massage a bit.  I can see it with a light through the side marker hole but couldn't get my phone in there to get a good pic.

After that, we'll see where the valance mounting points line up.  Thanks everyone for the advice and words of encouragement! 

(https://i.imgur.com/cfBRni2.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/7lrXD2Q.jpg)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JS29 on December 30, 2019, 12:50:58 PM
Body line is there, gap is even.  Good job.  :handshake:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: RUNCHARGER on December 30, 2019, 02:25:32 PM
Yes: Good job, that's so much better.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on December 30, 2019, 08:35:19 PM
Great to hear there is positive progress.
Help is what this  :grouphug: is for...
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on December 31, 2019, 04:54:44 AM
Looking good ! :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Cudakiller70 on January 01, 2020, 03:12:42 PM
For fit up, do you add any weight in the door for possible sag?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 01, 2020, 03:34:11 PM
For fit up, do you add any weight in the door for possible sag?

Yes, the doors still have all of the guts in them - glass, regulators, etc...
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on January 02, 2020, 04:39:20 AM
Thats weird with the striker, I have mine all the way in and it seems that it should be in even more to get the door flush, but now I will try to move it out again to see if mine does the same as yours.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: RUNCHARGER on January 02, 2020, 08:14:46 AM
I've been fooled by the strikers before as well. It has to click twice.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 03, 2020, 10:35:27 AM
I've been fooled by the strikers before as well. It has to click twice.

Yup!  I was both relieved and extremely pissed when I realized that was all I needed to get the panels to fit right.  I don't want to even think about the amount of hours I spent messing with it...  :pullinghair:


I got the tail panel welded in today.  When I first started welding on this car I was spending tons of time grinding down my welds after...  And blowing through, or not getting enough penetration since I didn't drill big enough holes......  A few thousand plug welds later and I think I'm getting decent!  Most of these required no touch up from the grinder since they were flush or slightly convex.

I didn't do the welds across the trunk extension since I want to have some wiggle room when I hang the quarter.

(https://i.imgur.com/PvRiJIa.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/eoet77E.jpg)

Tomorrow morning I'll probably weld/glue the quarter panel in finally.  I could still do it today, but I'm totally dragging my feet since it's an exterior panel and I only have one shot to make it look good!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 08, 2020, 11:05:24 AM
I finally manned up and hung the quarter for the last time.  All of the welds are in and the epoxy is setting.  Other than needing a hundred clamps, the epoxy was relatively uneventful.  I ended up epoxying the wheel house lip, rocker pinch weld, 1/4 to trunk gutter rail, 1/4 to door jamb pillar, and the 1/4 to trunk extension joint.  Everything else was plug welded.  In a day or two I'll yank and fill in the screw holes and remove the clamps.

(https://i.imgur.com/xC4pNoA.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/fQcwEXp.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/yUmJYD4.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/t82rLqf.jpg)

My trunk lid hinge bracket is loose since some of the welds are separated on that side, but I have clearance despite the pic above.  I only set it down roughly to make sure the 1/4 bent fit it well.  I have room to adjust the gap still.

I did NOT weld or bond the decklid filler yet since I will be removing it to repair or replace.  Another example of horrible factory quality: I was able to separate the decklid filler from the package tray lip where the bottom of the rear window sets without ever having to cut a spot weld.  The 1/8 pilot drill bit was all that was needed to break them loose; I didn't even have to seam split anything!  I'll take the easy removal though....

This was a royal PITA, but I think the other side will be easier since it was never smashed and I have some 1/4 panel experience now.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on January 08, 2020, 02:23:22 PM
Nice! Did you use screws to clamp the quarter to door jam pillar? The 3M Panel Bond is expensive here in Sweden, 80 bucks for a tube, how much did you use for 1 quarter?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 08, 2020, 02:37:12 PM
Nice! Did you use screws to clamp the quarter to door jam pillar? The 3M Panel Bond is expensive here in Sweden, 80 bucks for a tube, how much did you use for 1 quarter?

Yes, I tried to avoid it but there is no reasonable way to clamp that joint adequately without them.  Not a big deal since I'll just fill them in with more epoxy once removed.

I used an already opened and slightly used 200ml tube.  If you buy one of those you should have more than enough, provided you are using it in the same areas of course.  If you glue the entire panel in, it'll likely take an entire tube.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on January 08, 2020, 02:46:17 PM
It's coming along, coming along. I think you made the right call as to where you bonded your 1/4 and you don't have to worry too much as to it's setting up. As you know, it's 2K and it'll be harder than Chinese arithmetic inside a couple of hours. As for the 1/4 to rear valance gap, welcome to E body-land! I've seen gaps in factory cars that are 1/2" all the way to an 1/8th". If you can't get to split the difference on the rt 1/4 then you may be into sectioning the valance and I'd do it in the slot for the bmpr grd, it's shorter and virtually flat. Hell, you'll be able to get a part time job in a bodyshop by the time you're done!  :bigthumb:   :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on January 08, 2020, 02:48:16 PM
I've been fooled by the strikers before as well. It has to click twice.

Btw, I also tested to move the striker out today...jackpot!

Thanks!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: daaboots on January 09, 2020, 11:51:15 AM
Sweet work man! I'm plugging away on a 74 Challenger as well. I started on the rear section of the car first so I'll likely use some of your pics as a reference when I make my way to the front.

Would love to hear more about the Megasquirt EFI system. I plan on building up the 440 I have with EFI once I get the body finished.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 09, 2020, 12:49:44 PM
It's coming along, coming along. I think you made the right call as to where you bonded your 1/4 and you don't have to worry too much as to it's setting up. As you know, it's 2K and it'll be harder than Chinese arithmetic inside a couple of hours. As for the 1/4 to rear valance gap, welcome to E body-land! I've seen gaps in factory cars that are 1/2" all the way to an 1/8th". If you can't get to split the difference on the rt 1/4 then you may be into sectioning the valance and I'd do it in the slot for the bmpr grd, it's shorter and virtually flat. Hell, you'll be able to get a part time job in a bodyshop by the time you're done!  :bigthumb:   :cheers:

LOL, I'm not sure I'd ever do this again, at least not on a car from the Midwest!  I don't know how some of you guys do this day in and day out, on multiple cars no less!

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 09, 2020, 12:55:42 PM
Sweet work man! I'm plugging away on a 74 Challenger as well. I started on the rear section of the car first so I'll likely use some of your pics as a reference when I make my way to the front.

Would love to hear more about the Megasquirt EFI system. I plan on building up the 440 I have with EFI once I get the body finished.

Thanks!  I've watched your videos and it's great seeing someone else in a similar boat.  Misery enjoys company!   :))

Megasquirt is awesome.  It can support the most basic of installs and it can also do anything the high end ones can.  The customization and flexibility is amazing.  I'm using more features and functions than most muscle car guys, and yet still barely tapping into its capabilities.  One caveat is that you will likely have to do all of the tuning on your own.  There are very few MS proficient tuners out there, and many shops get really uneasy about using it.  For things that require dyno tuning, expect to do some hunting or find a friend at a speed shop that is willing to use something different.

If you have any specific questions, lemme know and I'll do my best to answer them.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on January 09, 2020, 06:42:51 PM
It's coming along, coming along. I think you made the right call as to where you bonded your 1/4 and you don't have to worry too much as to it's setting up. As you know, it's 2K and it'll be harder than Chinese arithmetic inside a couple of hours. As for the 1/4 to rear valance gap, welcome to E body-land! I've seen gaps in factory cars that are 1/2" all the way to an 1/8th". If you can't get to split the difference on the rt 1/4 then you may be into sectioning the valance and I'd do it in the slot for the bmpr grd, it's shorter and virtually flat. Hell, you'll be able to get a part time job in a bodyshop by the time you're done!  :bigthumb:   :cheers:

LOL, I'm not sure I'd ever do this again, at least not on a car from the Midwest!  I don't know how some of you guys do this day in and day out, on multiple cars no less!
Ha! Then think of us dumb schmucks working on Canadian cars! On my 74, I changed both full 1/4's, both inner and outer wheelhouses, the trunk floor (1pc), deck lid and both gutters. I salvaged the rear upper and lower body panels. Did I mention the front full floor, firewall, cowl, lft and rt door hinge pillars and frt inner aprons as well as the rt frt rail? Believe me brother, you're in a rather large club and we all seem to have the same mental deficiency that causes us to fix these rust buckets!  :))   :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on January 09, 2020, 07:47:25 PM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 10, 2020, 02:32:45 PM
Ripped out the passenger side floor pans today.  Had I know I'd be in this deep I would have gone with a one piece front floor, but oh well.  The torsion bar crossmember is in great shape on this side too, as is the back end of the front rail. 

You can't see it in this pic but the rear inner rocker was so rotten that I could not weld the leaf spring hangers on the rear frame assembly on that side when I initially installed it a few months ago.  The shell was so light and the back end so stiff that the body casters still worked ok on that corner.  I now have the car leveled back out and that corner is being supported by a jack stand under a solid part of the rocker, for now.

(https://i.imgur.com/nU7RJwt.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/d9D7RAn.jpg)

The new AMD front pan fits like a glove so far.

(https://i.imgur.com/nOJYN5c.jpg)

The rear pan fits so so, just like on the other side.  The back part that mates up to the rear seat area doesn't follow the bends the same way.  I'm hoping I can get it to conform as I screw it down, otherwise I'll have to cut and reform it.

(https://i.imgur.com/xpSiVbD.jpg)

The reason I'm doing the right floor pans now is because I want to weld in the other subframe connector and lock the structural parts of this chassis together before I start on the inner and outer rocker panel next. 

My plan is to sheet metal screw the new pans into the rocker ledge temporarily for now and weld/bond them permanently to the firewall, rails, crossmember, and each other.  That way I can support the body by the subframe connector, frame rail, and crossmember since that will all be a structurally sound assembly.  I'll also keep the existing bracing inside the car to keep everything from moving. 

I'll then replace the inner and outer rockers and index them to everything else which should make it easy to locate them properly.  Thoughts on that approach?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on January 10, 2020, 04:04:09 PM
Hang the door and check your door/ rocker gaps before you weld it up. This is your chance to out-do the factory in their alleged panel fitting.  :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: dodj on January 11, 2020, 05:46:34 AM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
The rarest ebodies!
Unlike those run - of-the - mill '70s......seems like everybody has one of those.....  :pokeeye:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on January 11, 2020, 06:51:40 PM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
The rarest ebodies!
Unlike those run - of-the - mill '70s......seems like everybody has one of those.....  :pokeeye:
LOL! Yowsir! If you ever get down to the Cambridge area, let me know and I'll buy you a few beers for stating that fabulous truth!  :twothumbsup:  :rofl:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on January 12, 2020, 05:39:10 PM
Haha the few and the proud.
Mine is even more rare with the 3 spd option. Obviously an option no one wanted. 4spd now though.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on January 12, 2020, 08:40:19 PM
Haha the few and the proud.
Mine is even more rare with the 3 spd option. Obviously an option no one wanted. 4spd now though.
:bigthumb:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: dodj on January 13, 2020, 05:05:28 PM
Wow look at all these 74s coming out of the woodwork.
The rarest ebodies!
Unlike those run - of-the - mill '70s......seems like everybody has one of those.....  :pokeeye:
LOL! Yowsir! If you ever get down to the Cambridge area, let me know and I'll buy you a few beers for stating that fabulous truth!  :twothumbsup:  :rofl:
I will be taking you up on that sir...   :drinkingbud:

Not sure if your idea of 'a few' is the same as mine.....   :D
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 13, 2020, 08:49:08 PM
Managed to find some time to strip the RH front frame rail further.  Overall, it's in pretty good shape.  It does have a few areas that need repairing up front though.  What gauge steel are the rails made out of?

This passed the pick hammer test, but it's pitted pretty badly so I plan on patching it.  Pretty sure the factory 1974 bumper brackets covered this area and explain the rust damage.

(https://i.imgur.com/5LPbAOF.jpg)

Crush damage from overtightening the Alterktion subframe supports, and probably thin as well from rust forming behind the factory bumpstop.  I'll patch it and sleeve the bolt holes.

(https://i.imgur.com/DvP9UqG.jpg)

Engine bay side right behind the shock tower.  Don't ask me why it rusted bad here, and only here in this small area!  Completely solid all the way around it...

(https://i.imgur.com/pEqVkum.jpg)

Weird pinhole that formed behind where the bumpstop must have been and trapped water/debris.

(https://i.imgur.com/SOXywgy.jpg)

I also managed to get the inside of the exposed rail and crossmember rust encapsulated and epoxy primed, along with priming the new panels and newly installed splash panel.  AMD shipped me 2 LH support brackets for the splash panels. but I was able to rebend and fabricate a RH bracket out of the extra LH one.  I learned some tricks after doing the driver side pans, and this side only took a fraction of the time as a result so far.  I should have the new floor pans welded in this weekend if I get time.  :woohoo:

(https://i.imgur.com/S7mg8zX.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/wCem9BZ.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ZSNe4Z2.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on January 13, 2020, 09:06:05 PM
Wow you are really moving along on this.
Thanks for updates.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on January 14, 2020, 01:30:00 AM
Nice to get inside the frame rails! I sand blasted and used 2k epoxy where I could get to them, (under the trunk floor) and the ones where I did not get to I found a great hard wirebrush with a long shaft, made for chimneys, fit the frame rails perfectly, then I used Eastwoods internal frame coating there. Got perfect coverage with their 360 nozzle, checked inside with a USB camera.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 17, 2020, 04:42:12 PM
Nice to get inside the frame rails! I sand blasted and used 2k epoxy where I could get to them, (under the trunk floor) and the ones where I did not get to I found a great hard wirebrush with a long shaft, made for chimneys, fit the frame rails perfectly, then I used Eastwoods internal frame coating there. Got perfect coverage with their 360 nozzle, checked inside with a USB camera.

I actually ran through my first 3 cans of that stuff coating the LH side rails, torque boxes, rockers, subframe connector, tank straps. wheelhouse/1/4 hidden areas, and the torsion bar crossmember.  Need to order a bunch more for the other side and all of the hidden areas in the interior and roof area that I won't have access to.

Got the new floors welded in except for the rocker seam.  The trans tunnel butt weld sucked!  That metal is unbelievably thin and burns through so darn easy.  I had to fab up a tunnel hump to firewall flange section since the original one was smashed up and rusted.  Half of the tunnel will get ripped out and redone when I do the 6 speed conversion, so I'm not too upset if some of it is an eyesore right now.

(https://i.imgur.com/OVc3ZXj.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ALbkQv6.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/PRdGtu4.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/uqVAQzA.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/DHFReQG.jpg)

I had a change of heart and opted to weld the firewall to floor and trans tunnel seams instead of using 3M adhesive.  The floor support brackets and the upcoming trans tunnel mods are going to have welding going on too close to the epoxy to survive.  I actually ended up scraping off and redoing (welding) the LH side since it came apart and must have been compromised when the floor support and splash panel welds were done. 

I'll use it again for the RH 1/4 panel and trunk extension to trunk floor seam though.  I  also plan on using it on a portion of the rocker bottom pinch weld area too, just like the driver side.  I bought 3M Impact Resistant Structural Adhesive for that (IRSA) since it is made for structural areas and I want maximum strength in that area, of course.  The front and rear where the 1/4 panel, splash panel, and torque boxes all attach will still be welded up as will the entire top pinch weld.

Next up, RH side subframe connector installation!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on January 18, 2020, 10:01:37 PM
LOL! Man, that one photo with the dead blow, wizzy wheel and Rolocs, vice grips and BFH tell a tale, eh?! Roll on laddie, you've got 'er on the ropes now!  :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 19, 2020, 06:47:34 AM
LOL! Man, that one photo with the dead blow, wizzy wheel and Rolocs, vice grips and BFH tell a tale, eh?! Roll on laddie, you've got 'er on the ropes now!  :cheers:

Story.  Of.  My.  Life.  On this car!   :))  My garage will never be clean again with the amount of rust and abrasive dust I've created on this project.

The floors on this side were actually pretty easy.  The rear one pulled into place once screwed down, and the front needed just a little persuasion to fit close to the torsion bar crossmember where it bends up over the trans tunnel.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on January 19, 2020, 10:02:39 AM
Looking real good, I like the prep work inside the rails, etc... :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on January 19, 2020, 05:44:28 PM
Currently welding in a floor for another project. Yes getting trans hump to align along with the rest is a pain.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 26, 2020, 05:12:36 PM
Finished up welding in the RH side subframe connector and getting all of the panel gaps as good as I can before starting on the quarter and rocker.  I'm pretty happy with the hood to fender gaps and front valance fitment.  The door gaps are as good as they'll get before I weld/grind the ends, which I'm not doing until I reskin the doors.

(https://i.imgur.com/2XDI8f7.jpg)

I ripped off the RH quarter panel too.

(https://i.imgur.com/4MNDMEU.jpg)

I stand corrected about this side being untouched!

(https://i.imgur.com/AmHhAA4.jpg)

Bondo worms!!!

(https://i.imgur.com/DEtFu58.jpg)

Another pointless "patch"....

(https://i.imgur.com/AFeFga7.jpg)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on January 26, 2020, 05:22:01 PM
Initial fitting of the new quarter panel.  So far, this side is going waaaay better than the other.  Pretty happy with the overall fitment and it seems to fit like a glove in most ways.

(https://i.imgur.com/XPQh0rM.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/LvpPs2Q.jpg)

The door gaps are dead even.

(https://i.imgur.com/G7ItU4R.jpg)

I was able to get the flip top fitted with little drama.  Minor grinding of the flip top cap mounting pads was all that was required.

(https://i.imgur.com/b8UMAmJ.jpg)

Hard to see, but the quarter seems to fit the OE trunk extension valance flange pretty well!

(https://i.imgur.com/bYHU9Du.jpg)

I do have similar issues with the panel contours on this side as well though.  I'll be pie cutting and grinding the flange and jamb pillar to fit better.

(https://i.imgur.com/v4folfk.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on January 28, 2020, 08:24:32 PM
Nice progress.
The second side comes with the knowledge learned on the first side...
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 01, 2020, 08:56:33 PM
Ripped out the old wheelhouse and fitted the new ones along with installing the trunk extension.

(https://i.imgur.com/5fQgRPH.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/wcMeg9f.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/QwBrlcv.jpg)


Also completed the frame notch and started welding up the mini tubbed wheelhouse too.

(https://i.imgur.com/XzxLMAp.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/9CKfw0I.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/SPmFT6G.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/KbJ0WQ8.jpg)

I'll grab some pics of the modified and hopefully installed wheelhouse tomorrow along with a better angle of the notched rail to show its impact.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on February 02, 2020, 07:04:40 AM
Did your trunk extension fit well? I'm still struggling with mine. Fits well towards the wheelhouse, trunk floor and the edge to the wheel opening on the quarter. But not good towards the quarter lower part (with the drain hole) and towards the rear valance.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 02, 2020, 07:26:28 AM
Did your trunk extension fit well? I'm still struggling with mine. Fits well towards the wheelhouse, trunk floor and the edge to the wheel opening on the quarter. But not good towards the quarter lower part (with the drain hole) and towards the rear valance.

This side, overall, is fitting up a lot better than the driver side did.  On the drivers side, I had to do some serious surgery to the quarter and trunk extension flanges to make the valance fit at all.  I still have some tweaking to do to perfect the valance flange on the passenger side, but I don't think it'll take more than some hammer and dolly work. 

I'm certainly not going to have to cut and reweld the flanges along with shaving the trunk extension down so it doesn't overhang the lower quarter seam.  Something was seriously off with the driver side extension.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on February 02, 2020, 07:35:51 AM
Again...awesome work  :worship:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dakota on February 02, 2020, 08:04:21 AM
Iíll echo Alanís comment about the awesome work youíre doing.  Panel replacements and body work at this level is practically a dark art for me as I lack the skill or experience to ever consider taking on a car project like yours.  Nice work.   :worship:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on February 02, 2020, 08:05:48 AM
Did your trunk extension fit well? I'm still struggling with mine. Fits well towards the wheelhouse, trunk floor and the edge to the wheel opening on the quarter. But not good towards the quarter lower part (with the drain hole) and towards the rear valance.

This side, overall, is fitting up a lot better than the driver side did.  On the drivers side, I had to do some serious surgery to the quarter and trunk extension flanges to make the valance fit at all.  I still have some tweaking to do to perfect the valance flange on the passenger side, but I don't think it'll take more than some hammer and dolly work. 

I'm certainly not going to have to cut and reweld the flanges along with shaving the trunk extension down so it doesn't overhang the lower quarter seam.  Something was seriously off with the driver side extension.

Same here, I have to cut it to fit, have not done it yet though. It doesn't even fit well on the quarter/valance with everything off the car. Hoping for a better fit on the right side.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 05, 2020, 04:00:18 PM
I managed to finish up mini tubbing and installing the new wheelhouses on the passenger side.  Go easy on my welds; I took these pics immediately after welding them in a hazy garage!  They look a lot better after they are wire wheeled to knock off the spatter and weld primer.

(https://i.imgur.com/rxVi3kL.jpg)

Modified trunk hinge bracket

(https://i.imgur.com/M0i0lKB.jpg)

Modified support bracket.

(https://i.imgur.com/UlpVTbS.jpg)

Modified package tray bracket

(https://i.imgur.com/q3tPTRk.jpg)

Here's a good view to give you an idea of the difference in width after tubbing.

(https://i.imgur.com/QgJV3wY.jpg)

Up next weekend: outer/inner rocker panel R&R!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on February 05, 2020, 08:27:30 PM
Nice!  :wowzers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Brads70 on February 05, 2020, 08:36:36 PM
Wow nice work!  Lots of work accomplished so far!  :bravo:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on February 07, 2020, 01:46:57 AM
Looks great!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 09, 2020, 04:42:12 PM
The inner and outer rockers are both yanked out now.  It's amazing how much damage a simple mouse nest wreaked over the decades....

(https://i.imgur.com/uovp6Cj.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/5zFUjrk.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/6IWri54.jpg)

Cool views of everything that luckily, did not move at all courtesy of having the subframe connector welded in.  The inner should be plug and play.

(https://i.imgur.com/T2RG7pl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/A8d0U4D.jpg)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 09, 2020, 04:46:18 PM
The AMD inner rocker is spot on compared to the OE.  Super happy with the way the rough fit is going!  Not sure why Mopar put that large hole in the rear of the inner rockers; it's the perfect entrance for rodents to nest.  I think I'll keep it to spray frame coating inside, but will plug it with a rubber plug once done.

(https://i.imgur.com/hUa1lz3.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/521HbB8.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/0yEoDHn.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/dxZX2K6.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/AeyTUgZ.jpg)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 16, 2020, 12:49:47 PM
I installed the new inner and outer rockers along with the torque boxes; this car is now 100% structurally solid again!  I'm finally ready to remove all of the interior bracing which will make it much easier to weld in the new seat belt and 4 speed console brackets along with the tunnel hump. 

Prepped and painted

(https://i.imgur.com/Btbf8v6.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/qlhycaa.jpg)

Inner installed; I resprayed it for extra protection after welding/grinding.

(https://i.imgur.com/K387ABr.jpg)

And outer installed.  I'm really happy with the way it turned out.  My door bottom gaps are probably half what they were originally now, and everything fits as it should after reinstalling the 1/4 and fender for mockup. 

(https://i.imgur.com/6MbGzTH.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/zdEd79a.jpg)

I plug welded everything except for the middle beam of the bottom outer to inner flange.  That was done with 3M Impact Resistant Structrural Adhesive for strength and corrosion protection.  I'd do all of the bottom seam that way, but the welding heat from the torque boxes would have compromised it and I didn't want to install them before the outer rocker in the event that the thin inner warped or distorted.

Inner structure sprayed in epoxy primer after clean up:

(https://i.imgur.com/Oj7bej7.jpg)

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: dodj on February 16, 2020, 02:03:55 PM
Amazes me how far you've come in a little over two months!
 :wrenching:
 :clapping:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on February 18, 2020, 03:28:18 PM
Wow. Congrats on the milestone!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 18, 2020, 04:13:25 PM
Amazes me how far you've come in a little over two months!
 :wrenching:
 :clapping:

Yeah, I'm done with school finally and it's winter, so I have a lot more free time!  At least until it gets nice outside again.  And sleep is overrated.

Wow. Congrats on the milestone!

Thank you!  Not a whole lot left to do on this shell; I'm really hoping I'll have it ready to turn over to a painter for spring/early summer.

Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on February 19, 2020, 06:11:15 AM
The rockers looks very difficult!
I see you are welding the seams inside the wheelhouses to the trunk floor and
even the outer wheelhouse back edge to the trunk floor, I'll guess you also plug weld the wheelhouse from the inside like stock?

And now my real question  :D
Do you upload your pictures or add them some other way?
You can write text under each picture, which is nice, all my pictures appears at the end of my post.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 19, 2020, 08:05:58 AM
The rockers looks very difficult!
I see you are welding the seams inside the wheelhouses to the trunk floor and
even the outer wheelhouse back edge to the trunk floor, I'll guess you also plug weld the wheelhouse from the inside like stock?

And now my real question  :D
Do you upload your pictures or add them some other way?
You can write text under each picture, which is nice, all my pictures appears at the end of my post.

The rockers weren't terrible!  Having the subframe connector welded in made it a lot safer and easier.  Nothing budged during the repair since the connector had the chassis locked in place already.  I still think the driver's side quarter was the worst job so far...  Even more than the firewall.

Yup, the wheelhouse is seam welded around the perimeter, and also plug welded where possible.  Some of it has to be seam welded since the trunk floor/frame rail 90 degree flange is trimmed off to make room for the tub.  One thing is for sure - that wheelhouse isn't going anywhere!

I use Imgur to host my photos and then embed the links onto my posts.  I tried using Google Photos but it didn't work out right.  Kind of a PITA to upload to Imgur and then copy/paste links, but so is uploading them to this site and dealing with file size issues.

I gave up on Photobucket since the website runs terribly slow with all of the ads, and I refuse to pay money to host pictures.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on February 19, 2020, 10:22:40 AM
Thanks for the info. I don't have a file size problem uploading here at all, it's just that I can't write comments below the pictures.
I got all my photos in iCloud already, gonna check to see if I can share from there.

That cool with the subframe connector and rocker, sure makes it safer.
Same with my driver side quarter, been on and off for almost a year now, finally getting the wheelhouse, trunk extension and all the small stuff done.
Wish I could do it at your speed!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: usraptor on February 20, 2020, 11:05:48 AM
Wow, you definitely aren't letting any grass grow under your feet.  Great progress and attention to detail! :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 23, 2020, 04:45:30 PM
Got the RH quarter panel and jamb pillar hung.  Other than the inevitable mess and cleanup dealing with the structural adhesive, there were no surprises.

Seam sealing before panel hanging and undercoat spray
(https://i.imgur.com/SmwxAP2.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/RM3FT4R.jpg)

Undercoating the quarter panel

(https://i.imgur.com/3jufGsL.jpg)

Final epoxy prime coat

(https://i.imgur.com/8MbhmPo.jpg)

Jamb pillar prep

(https://i.imgur.com/ND1CMDd.jpg)

And installed

(https://i.imgur.com/RyEkg6S.jpg)

Lower quarter welds

(https://i.imgur.com/grytyZV.jpg)

Jamb pillar screwed together while the panel bond cures

(https://i.imgur.com/ylxuHKm.jpg)

Clamps galore!

(https://i.imgur.com/LvUW6ux.jpg)

And the results:

Rocker to door bottom gap
(https://i.imgur.com/UOTVT97.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/btWdB8Y.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/oABVJmf.jpg)

Decklid filler is next up.  Should be the last of the non bolted panel work I'll be doing to this pig.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: larry4406 on February 24, 2020, 02:36:58 AM
Nice job!

One of your pictures shows a corded band file.  What brand is it?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on February 24, 2020, 10:08:06 AM
Nice job!

One of your pictures shows a corded band file.  What brand is it?

El cheapo Harbor Freight special. With good belts it works great. The Harbor Freight belts are crap though.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: daaboots on February 25, 2020, 01:55:18 PM
Man, you're really moving along with this project! Wish I was moving at your speed  :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on March 01, 2020, 10:44:32 AM
Wrapping up the last of the welded on panel replacements for my car, I got the new decklid filler welded in place.  Initially, I was going to attempt repairing the original one, but the price point on the new metal just didn't make sense for the work involved to fix the old.  It would have needed multiple patches in compound curved areas.  The new one fit quite well, but was a bit too narrow so I added weld bead to each side.  Pretty easy other than those damn 1/4 to decklid flange welds!

Cleaned up and threw down the 1st coat of epoxy primer everywhere I could before installing the new panel since some areas are almost inaccessible with a paint gun after it is installed.

(https://i.imgur.com/Kj0VZIg.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/RkYWIWW.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/l91hdg4.jpg)

Next, I seam sealed the trunk with 3M 2 part seam sealer; awesome stuff but pricey! 

Why did they seam seal the spare tire and console brackets anyways?  Were they concerned that the drunk, high, and blind line stick welders were going to burn through the panels so seam sealing was done as a CYA???  :haha:

(https://i.imgur.com/cBVAllb.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/hqEcH9s.jpg)

Last coat of epoxy primer laid down after installing the panel.

(https://i.imgur.com/lDKv2MS.jpg)

I also opted to weld the seams solid to the quarters, but ground a groove that I can put a thin bead of sealer in to look factory.  I figured that will give everything a little extra strength to prevent cracking, and eliminate a rust/leak path.

(https://i.imgur.com/yXrvkqK.jpg[img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/toOtLF9.jpg)

I still suck at painting, but it won't matter since I plan on throwing down a spray on sound deadener and heat barrier.  I mainly wanted to ensure I had a good base for adhesion and everything sealed up and as protected as possible.  I was thinking about Lizard Skin; any other opinions out there on that or other options?  I'm still torn about putting Dynamat or similar on top of the spray on barrier given how awful that stuff was to remove.  Seriously, I don't wish that kind of mess on anyone.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on March 01, 2020, 01:36:38 PM
I used Raptor liner inside my quarters, gonna use it in the wheelhouses and inside the fenders and possible trunk. It's thick and very hard, but I do hear from people that used it before that it can crack over time if you apply it over seam sealer.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on March 03, 2020, 07:41:32 PM
Nice progress as seems to be the usual.
To answer your seam sealer question. I surmise it was to cover the sharp edging of the pieces.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on March 04, 2020, 07:38:29 PM
Nice progress as seems to be the usual.
To answer your seam sealer question. I surmise it was to cover the sharp edging of the pieces.

Thank you!  Never thought of that!  Makes sense; especially in the trunk area.

Rando pictures I forgot to upload from this weekend that I thought were kinda neat.  I cut the skin off of the original hood.  I'll probably clean it up and hang it on a wall in my garage since it's pretty light now.  The structural piece had a lot of rot in addition to broken loose cage nuts for the hood hinges, and the skin has pretty extensive pitting surface rust on the areas concealed by the structural part.

(https://i.imgur.com/hXiKWXY.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/BjNW5OR.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/8dkYYaL.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/sHfNfHJ.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on March 05, 2020, 06:14:49 AM
Wow, I never seen anyone separate those before, how is the skin attached?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on March 05, 2020, 03:25:50 PM
Wow, I never seen anyone separate those before, how is the skin attached?

It's actually just like a door skin or the trunk lid skin.  The outer perimeter is folded over the frame and spot welded every so often.  There are also large blobs of adhesive or sealer between the frame and hood skin to prevent oil canning, I assume.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on March 08, 2020, 10:07:17 AM
A little less progress since it's starting to warm up and I have a lot of stuff going on...

The 4 speed hump is in; so it's officially a manual car like I've always wanted.  I'll be ordering a 6 speed kit toward the end of the metal work since I know further cutting and modification of the tunnel is coming.

(https://i.imgur.com/vdd8aY6.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/JwCcwhA.jpg)

I also had to cut and modify the offset of the left rear bumper bracket to get the bumper sucked in equally and tightly on both sides.  It never fit great before I did any of the metal work either, and I know the car is a lot squarer than before so the bracket was suspect.

(https://i.imgur.com/Sa3D8MN.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/7y39Teu.jpg)

I'm still working on the rear valance to get the gaps perfect.  I'm hoping to have that done over the next week.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on April 04, 2020, 02:41:08 PM
It's been a minute, so here are some pics of the progress.  I stripped the entire front end down to metal and epoxy primed it for temp protection.  What a PITA without a sandblaster....

(https://i.imgur.com/1pbOsF7.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/KhaOcH5.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ojrAnE3.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/SDxDl6t.jpg)

I also repaired the roof skin rust near the windshield...  Talk about a pucker up moment, but I think it came out pretty good.  It'll need a little filler in a couple of spots, but nothing major.  It's a vinyl top car anyways.  I will NOT be removing the entire length in one chunk when I do the rear window repairs.  It was nerve wracking trying to get it all lined up right.  I thought it would be easier to patch on the bench, but I don't think I saved any time overall.

(https://i.imgur.com/lhhgybX.jpg)


(https://i.imgur.com/labVHC7.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/Trjzp1n.jpg)


Also patched up the one frame rail that I salvaged.  I'll be welding in bolt sleeves for the upper mounting points for the Alterktion subframe from the inside before I weld the last patch in.

Yuck.
(https://i.imgur.com/STF6p4s.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/iGNTnKy.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/ttkkOFw.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/6gaps79.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/G4jadax.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/6ZGxoQq.jpg)


For anybody wondering what gauge steel was used for the front rails (I couldn't find anything definitive), it's 14 gauge.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on April 04, 2020, 02:48:16 PM
Looking real good !  :worship:

I like the fact you replicated the factory runs in the primer... :rofl:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: RUNCHARGER on April 04, 2020, 04:00:15 PM
Wow on the ws/roof patch. Does the trim line up okay? You've more nerve than I do.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on April 05, 2020, 12:17:06 AM
Wow on the ws/roof patch. Does the trim line up okay? You've more nerve than I do.

Yeah, the trim was the least of my worries.  Getting the slope of the roof right was the real challenge.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on April 05, 2020, 12:18:30 AM
Looking real good !  :worship:

I like the fact you replicated the factory runs in the primer... :rofl:

LOL, and this is why I draw the line at painting.  I'll do the metal work, but the real art will be handed off to someone else.  I have neither the patience nor the talent to do it right myself.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on April 05, 2020, 03:32:21 AM
That roof patch is so nice! What tools did you use to make the piece?
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on April 05, 2020, 07:57:20 PM
That roof patch is so nice! What tools did you use to make the piece?

Most of it is the original piece.  I simply patched up several spots of heavily pitted or pinholed metal to fix it up.  Just basic hammer/dolly work.  Again, I shouldn't have taken the entire piece off.  Having access to the backside was nice, but welding that whole thing back on was not fun.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on April 19, 2020, 05:04:04 PM
Finished up the last rail patch and sleeved the bolt hole locations for the Alterktion frame.  Not really necessary, but I like having the bolt sleeves to prevent the frame rail from being crushed or distorted if the bolts are tightened too much.  This anchors them solidly.


Here's how I sleeved the RH rail.  I had to patch both sides of this rail, so it was pretty easy.  I installed the frame first to drill the holes, then I installed the sleeves and bolts with nuts to clamp them in place.  On this side, I welded the inside and the around the perimeter.

(https://i.imgur.com/1eSlHZc.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/GQg6Rcp.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/D6LnRBi.jpg)


Since the LH side was a new rail, I did not have the ability to open it up and weld from the inside at all.  Instead, I drilled the bolt holes.

(https://i.imgur.com/m3msQxJ.jpg)

Then I used a step bit to bore the holes out to fit the bolt sleeves perfectly using the bolts to keep everything centered.

(https://i.imgur.com/stYiZ6i.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/MGf09f7.jpg)

Then I welded them to the rail.

(https://i.imgur.com/tSPBStl.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/WdrP3bv.jpg)

I used a hole saw to cut out a circle on the other side of the rail for each sleeve, and then welded them to the outside of the rails.  Pretty happy with the way it turned out!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on April 19, 2020, 05:07:13 PM
Wow...that looks real solid :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: jimynick on April 19, 2020, 08:54:58 PM
"Pretty happy with the way it turned out!" And SO you should be! good job!  :bigthumb:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on April 20, 2020, 12:56:38 AM
Nice work! Thats a great mod for those suspensions!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: usraptor on April 23, 2020, 04:42:01 PM
Great work! :bravo: :woohoo:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on May 23, 2020, 07:16:02 AM
At a time where most people have tons of time to work on their cars, I feel like I'm the complete opposite.  Go figure....  Started on the door skins since that is one of the last things left to do before shipping the car out for final body and paint.

I thought these would be pretty simple, but the bondo master struck again!  Once I started hitting the door bottoms with the wire wheel I found more hidden surprises.  The driver side door frame required a fair amount of rust repair, and I think the passenger side will be even worse.  Grinding through the door skin edge made for very quick removal though.

(https://i.imgur.com/iwVkw99.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/eRELzYF.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/whF27FS.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/VMrfbrq.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/hW8y6jL.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/Jc4MhrL.jpg)

Here it is fully stripped; it took a lot of work and time to get all of the hidden areas clean and rust free.  I ended up soaking it in Eastwood Fast Etch with plastic over it.  I'm hoping to epoxy prime the frame and skin on Monday along with spraying the skin with undercoating.

(https://i.imgur.com/WsePOJq.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/teubSpO.jpg)

I think after that I'm going to reinstall the door with the skin fit on it and fit everything up before I tack anything.  I think I might use panel bond on the bottom, but I will weld the sides since I'm pretty sure I'll need to do some welding to get the gaps perfect.  The bottom is the area that needs the rust protection the most.

The AMD skin fits the door frame perfectly; I can't wait to see how it fits the car body lines - hopefully just as well!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on May 23, 2020, 07:49:17 AM
Not too bad though. I guess the skins are spot welded to the frame?
Thats an area where I would use panel bond for the new skins, seals it up nice for rust.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on May 23, 2020, 07:58:01 AM
Not too bad though. I guess the skins are spot welded to the frame?
Thats an area where I would use panel bond for the new skins, seals it up nice for rust.

Yup, the skin flange is folded over and spot welded to the frame. They're tiny spot welds too. I had to patch a number of areas and repair the door frame flange. My rocker gap should be good, so I'll panel bond that bottom flange that is prone to rust.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Rich G. on May 23, 2020, 08:57:27 AM
Very nice work. Should be very satisfying knowing you did it.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on May 24, 2020, 03:56:43 PM
Very nice. You are doing it proper justice for sure.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on May 31, 2020, 06:19:58 PM
All done with the driver's side.  No visible distortion to the outer skin and it seems to fit pretty darn good.  I ended up welding the sides and panel bonding the bottom flange.  I'll hang it again after it cures and figure out how much welding/grinding I'll need to do to get the gaps 100%.

(https://i.imgur.com/8Tcskca.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/QBB1ajC.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/bULLfNN.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/360njon.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/MsxhLuA.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/zRQ9FpA.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/8rEzIc3.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/MYwkBKJ.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on May 31, 2020, 09:20:04 PM
Very nice.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: usraptor on June 06, 2020, 02:11:59 PM
Wow! Perfect! :clapping:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on June 07, 2020, 02:31:19 PM
Nice! Makes me wanna take my doors apart just to get them like that.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on June 07, 2020, 06:38:17 PM
Nice! Makes me wanna take my doors apart just to get them like that.

Thanks!  Be careful what you wish for; if they're anything like mine were after being stripped down to bare metal you'll be kicking yourself, LOL.  Mine required a lot of rust repairs on the bottom of the shell and flange.  The AMD skin fit PERFECT though.  I have the driver side door and fender on and the work to make the gaps perfect isn't as bad as I thought it would be.  Hopefully the passenger side is no different.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on July 05, 2020, 07:25:59 PM
It has been a HOT week, but I managed to knock out the passenger door frame repairs and reskinning along with initial mock up of the front end.  Most of the panels and trim are fitting up ok so far.

The passenger frame required extensive rust repair; much more than the driver's side.  I used the same process as the other to epoxy prime everything, undercoat the skin, and mount the door to the body to hammer the flanges and glue the bottom.  I removed it via the pins to finish hammering the hinge side and do the plug welds.  I will say, trying to get the pins lined back up while fighting the rollers and spring was a PITA; I don't think I saved any time doing it that way.

(https://i.imgur.com/N0jtkfo.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/fKIBVlT.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/F4vvGnu.jpg)

I'll have to do some minor gap tweaking on the 1/4 side, but not much.  The fender side will need minor grinding since I'm a little too close.

(https://i.imgur.com/aQZeZMT.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/LxUHX5G.jpg)


The grille and headlight buckets fit ok; I definitely need to tweak the way the buckets fit the AMD fenders though.  I have to enlarge the rear grille mounting slots too; not sure if the issue is the grille or fenders, but I suspect the fenders.

(https://i.imgur.com/XtJjnSo.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/HJ8Elks.jpg)


The front valance needs some work too.  I can get everything lined up and fitting EXCEPT for the two mounting points to the inner rails.  I suspect the issue is the center mounting to the hood latch support not being right and preventing the back of the valance from rotating upward enough.  I'll probably need to modify the AMD valance bracket since the hood latch and hood gaps are spot on now.

I do have an issue with the fender body lines matching the door skins on both sides too, and I'm certain it is the fenders.  My 1/4 lines fit great, the rocker gaps are even, and there is no taper on the fender gaps either.  I mocked up all of the trim and seals with no drama too.  I'm thinking I'll try loosening the fender to rocker nuts and using a jack to force the fender up so the body lines match?  If that doesn't work I think I'll be cutting and rewelding the fenders, which I'd really rather not do!

I've got final fitting and leading of the seams to do before I move to the interior to strip/prime/seal/Lizard Skin.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: cudamadd on July 06, 2020, 02:18:29 AM
Great work I love it when owners can do a lot of the work them selfs .  Most people who have plenty of money and palm out most of the work  ,or in a position to pay large sums of dollars for cars ,never really under stand how much work and time that  goes into these old cars .  But on the other hand some people donít care .  You can always see the labor of love for our beloved vehicles  ,well done keep up the good work  :cheers:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: JonH on July 06, 2020, 07:00:29 AM
There should be a bracket/mount just in front of the doors on each front fender. You might be able to pull the fenders up there. I think you replaced that part of the pillar. Are the brackets there?



Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on July 06, 2020, 02:22:54 PM
You should add some weight to the doors before final acceptance of your gaps. IIRC it is something like 50 lbs per door.
Hopefully someone can chime in if this is correct.

Get a bag of sand and lay it on door for the check.

Looking great though.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on July 06, 2020, 07:12:06 PM
There should be a bracket/mount just in front of the doors on each front fender. You might be able to pull the fenders up there. I think you replaced that part of the pillar. Are the brackets there?

Yup, both are in place.  If I understand how those work, it'll change the height of the entire top of the fender too.  Right now, they are both level with the hood so changing it would throw the alignment off.  I also need to raise the body line of the fender up, that's why I was thinking I could force the bottom of it up more with a jack or blocks while tightening the rocker nuts down.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on July 06, 2020, 07:14:12 PM
You should add some weight to the doors before final acceptance of your gaps. IIRC it is something like 50 lbs per door.
Hopefully someone can chime in if this is correct.

Get a bag of sand and lay it on door for the check.

Looking great though.

Since the doors and panels will ultimately come off again for final paint, is that still necessary?  Will the weight really affect the door gaps when fully latched, or just when open?  I'll definitely do it if it'll make a difference.  I thought it was just to compensate for the sag that a fully loaded door would have so you don't bang the door on the strikers or rub anything when opening.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on July 06, 2020, 08:51:58 PM
You should add some weight to the doors before final acceptance of your gaps. IIRC it is something like 50 lbs per door.
Hopefully someone can chime in if this is correct.

Get a bag of sand and lay it on door for the check.

Looking great though.

Since the doors and panels will ultimately come off again for final paint, is that still necessary?  Will the weight really affect the door gaps when fully latched, or just when open?  I'll definitely do it if it'll make a difference.  I thought it was just to compensate for the sag that a fully loaded door would have so you don't bang the door on the strikers or rub anything when opening.
Never repaired as extensive as you but have heard numerous times it does.
Maybe @Cuda Cody (https://forum.e-bodies.org/mlist/cuda-cody_1) can chime in for guidance.
Good luck.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Cuda Cody on July 06, 2020, 09:03:37 PM
Yes, you need to add weight during the body work and alignment stages.  It will make a huge different in the final results regardless if you paint them off the car. 

Put the weight in the doors now and see what I'm talking about.  You can use chain and spread it along the bottom or any other weight you have.  Don't put it all at one end, spread it evenly at the bottom of the inside of the door.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on July 07, 2020, 03:49:07 PM
Ok then, I'll get 50lbs of chain and recheck everything before worrying about the fender body line alignment.  Thanks!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on August 30, 2020, 07:41:08 PM
After entirely too much time, I'm wrapping up the last bit of metal restoration on this car!  No more rust for hopefully a very long time!  After spending entirely too much time trying to patch and form compound bends near the rear window, fix a partially sagged roof near the right upper area of the rear window from somebody probably sitting on it, and trying to get dynamat extreme off I decided to just replace the damn roof skin like I probably should have done in the first place.

I ordered a new roof skin from Jegs (Goldstar brand) and it honestly fits like a glove for the most part.  The only areas that needed work were the very front corners that mate up with the A pillars.  This was seriously one of the easiest panels to fit on the car.

I got all of the roof frame rust stripped and repaired and everything primed.  I should have it installed later this week.  After that, trans tunnel and crossmember mods for the T56 Magnum before I epoxy prime and Lizard skin sound/thermal barrier the interior.  Then she's getting shipped out to get painted and final fitted.  Finally moving onto some fun stuff!

(https://i.imgur.com/Ij2D1XY.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/0IaVQMq.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/hSlgBbL.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/kGfdggu.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/tNw7BJh.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on August 30, 2020, 07:43:04 PM
Some serious progress there, and more importantly , another one saved :worship: :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on August 31, 2020, 09:05:04 AM
Great update there.
Was wondering because you had previously set the update frequency.
Must be great feeling to be so much closer.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: soundcontrol on August 31, 2020, 02:56:54 PM
Nice work!  :clapping:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on August 31, 2020, 03:29:28 PM
Some serious progress there, and more importantly , another one saved :worship: :twothumbsup:


More or less, LOL.  Lot's and lot's of new metal on it.  But, it has sentimental value so it's worth it to me.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on August 31, 2020, 03:35:47 PM
Great update there.
Was wondering because you had previously set the update frequency.
Must be great feeling to be so much closer.

I've been crazy busy with work, that and trying to enjoy the solid 3 weeks of decent weather we receive in Soviet Republic of Illinois each summer.  I've been busting butt lately to get it ready to hand off to a real body guy to finish in fall.  There were a few times I was so rushed that I simply forgot to take pictures to post.  I just shipped parts to SF Resto today.  Shipping to Canada was ridiculously expensive.  Hopefully I get the latches and whatnot back before it gets really cold so I can drop the car off to get done.

Nice work!  :clapping:

Thank you!
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on September 03, 2020, 04:16:14 PM
Busy, busy day today.  Got the freshly primed skin welded up, ground down, and epoxy primed (poorly as usual) to prevent flash rusting.  Got all of the trim holes drilled too.  I used seam sealer between the two crossmembers, of course  I'm really happy with the way this piece fit.  It fits better than the original ever did, especially at the sail panel seams.  Anybody needing to do extensive roof repair should seriously consider giving this a try.

(https://i.imgur.com/xKBq97k.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/LqWtTDU.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/zASPP2E.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/3Empz0P.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/7UGOF5Q.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Scooter on September 03, 2020, 04:37:26 PM
hat's off to you... doing some really nice work there... and lots of it!

 :twothumbsup:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: RUNCHARGER on September 03, 2020, 07:51:38 PM
Nice! Good to know that's a good piece.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on September 26, 2020, 08:31:30 PM
Officially done with the metal resto and on to fun things!  I sent out a bunch of stuff to SF Restoration to get restored.  In the meantime, I finally ordered and just received my Tremec T56 Magnum kit from SST.  I'm really impressed with the completeness, quality, and engineering of this kit.  Today I mocked up the pedal set and clutch master cylinder and stiffener to drill holes and check fit.  I'll be doing the crossmember mods this next week.

(https://i.imgur.com/5OoA4gs.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/HAf8wP4.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/69LK06f.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/0mHF3ep.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/MnzRf1j.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/YYoSPXa.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/y3qToMO.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/SYJad8L.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/GA6mRVr.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/zCFwnoy.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/9FkeVqy.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/FsLZjOM.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/6q9B9kg.jpg)
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: YellowThumper on September 28, 2020, 08:29:44 PM
That looks great.
Particularly like the clutch cylinder setup.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on September 29, 2020, 06:04:51 PM
That looks great.
Particularly like the clutch cylinder setup.

Yeah, I priced out and considered engineering my own setup, but at best, I would have only saved a couple hundred dollars that I most certainly would have blown (and then some) doing sub par fabrication and working through issues.  Plus, it comes with a 3 year warranty.  I'm cheap and prefer doing things myself, but this is one area it just didn't make sense.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on September 29, 2020, 06:09:37 PM
Just to be anal.... :rofl:

This clip is on the wrong side of the clutch/brake pedal assembly. You may have difficulty getting the flasher unit to reach over there.
In that hole you're using there should be a black plastic clip to retain the speedometer cable  :alan2cents:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on September 30, 2020, 04:13:00 PM
Just to be anal.... :rofl:

This clip is on the wrong side of the clutch/brake pedal assembly. You may have difficulty getting the flasher unit to reach over there.
In that hole you're using there should be a black plastic clip to retain the speedometer cable  :alan2cents:

Good call!  I'll move it over.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on October 04, 2020, 07:57:10 AM
Didn't have as much time as I wanted to work on it this weekend, but I did get the trans crossmember mods completed.  Overall, pretty easy and uneventful.  The new crossmember has both the early and late E-Body crossmember bolt pattern.  After removing the arch piece, there are two neat little caps that get welded in to box the crossmember and also provide reinforcement tubes to prevent crushing the crossmember when the bolts are torqued.

(https://i.imgur.com/v0Mrupa.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/BwydjRR.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/mc6dVZZ.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/EFufrYk.jpg)

(https://i.imgur.com/PVueS0m.jpg)

I'm hoping to at least get started on the tunnel mods next weekend.  SST includes templates to tell you exactly where to cut and how to shape the tunnel.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on October 04, 2020, 08:30:43 AM
Interesting....does it not have a piece to loop over the new transmission to connect the two halves back together ? :huh:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on October 04, 2020, 08:58:14 AM
Interesting....does it not have a piece to loop over the new transmission to connect the two halves back together ? :huh:

The crossmember is a structural piece in this kit.  It's reinforced, boxed, and gusseted and much heavier gauge steel than the factory one.  Once bolted in and torqued, it's solid.  Not that it matters for me since I'm running an Alterktion setup, but this is strong enough to still allow the use of torsion bars.

I also have subframe connectors, torque boxes and all of the other US CARTOOL pieces so I have zero concerns about loss of strength.
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: anlauto on October 04, 2020, 09:18:02 AM
That makes sense, especially if there's no torsion bars being used :bigthumb:
Title: Re: 1974 Challenger Resto
Post by: Dmod1974 on October 04, 2020, 04:42:51 PM
That makes sense, especially if there's no torsion bars being used :bigthumb:

Yeah, I honestly wouldn't hesitate to use this setup even with torsion bars after seeing just how thin and subject to deflection that the factory sheet metal is.  The SST crossmember is without a doubt substantially stronger than the flimsy torsion bar crossmember, even with it being "boxed" by the maybe 18ga floor pan above it via spot welds.  It's the strongest part in the system.