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Engine, Trans K member dolly.

Started by Shane Kelley, May 15, 2017, 10:48:00 AM

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Shane Kelley

I used polymer casters on this one but I would recommend the all steel ones. That's what I used on another I built. These work but it rolls a lot easier with the steel ones. Main structure is 2" heavy wall box tubing. The uprights are thin wall 3/4 box tube. I recommend setting your K member on uprights and them tack welding to base. That way you know it will fit perfect. Use something like 1/2 bolts for the top of the K member uprights. Don't use the K member bolt size. They need to be smaller so you can use them as alignment pins on front rails during assembly. The 2 small rods you see sticking up will support your lower control arms.  The rear where the trans goes is just a area for it to rest in front of cross member. Transmission cross member will be the first thing bolted to car. Be sure your dolly is not to long on the rear. You will be using a floor jack there also.  Be sure and leave front of main base open in a U shape. This will be needed to slide floor jack under. 
So this is the way I do my install.
Make sure jack stands (heavy duty ones) are either under rear axle or all the way back on rear frame rails.

Mount the front end bracket (see other thread) to bumper bracket locations on front frame rails. Pick up front of vehicle just high enough to roll drive train under front end.

Remove the nuts on K member bracket. This will leave you with 4 bolts sticking up to use as alignment pins for frame rails.

Lower body down slowly and watch (everything) for clearance issues. Make sure trans cross member is lining up with body and the pins for K member. Once the body is sitting on K member. Jack up transmission by tail shaft housing and bolt up cross member. Be sure and leave bolts loose for now. This will all help stabilize drive train to car for the next step.

Now use your floor jack with a piece of board (2x6x6) so you have a good flat surface to jack up K member without denting and beating it up. I used a towel on top of it also. Now your going to jack up K member with vehicle sitting on it. That will lift it off the dolly just enough to get your k member bolts in place. You might need to use a big Phillips screw drive to help get the bolt holes perfectly lined up. Shouldn't take much and it moves pretty easy. Once K member is bolted up leave bolts a little loose. Now your ready to raise vehicle with cherry picker and pull the dolly out. Set your front back down on jack stands. Make sure everything is squared up and tighten K member and then cross member bolts. Your done!  Remember to always be super careful and pay attention to everything. Safety first.

Cuda Cody

 :banana:  That's pretty nice.   :lookatthat:  You pretty much do everything over the top, don't you?     :bigthumb:  Nice job.

cudaragtop


- Randy D. 1970 'Cuda 340 4-Speed Convertible
69 Barracuda G3 Hemi/8HP70 Resto-Mod Project Album: https://goo.gl/photos/XjsAsx4LDo7psimU8


Shane Kelley

Quote from: Cuda Cody on May 15, 2017, 11:08:45 AM
:banana:  That's pretty nice.   :lookatthat:  You pretty much do everything over the top, don't you?     :bigthumb:  Nice job.
I have been known to get a little carried away sometimes.   8)

JS29


shawge

Great job!  Much nicer that the HF moving dolly and 2x4s I used.  I bet it rolls around a lot better too.
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet

anlauto

Very nice ! :worship:

TIP For anyone wanting to try this method: Process is a little safer with the rear axle and wheels on the ground first, not necessary as proven, but a little less nerve racking. :alan2cents:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Shane Kelley

Quote from: anlauto on May 15, 2017, 01:30:26 PM
Very nice ! :worship:

TIP For anyone wanting to try this method: Process is a little safer with the rear axle and wheels on the ground first, not necessary as proven, but a little less nerve racking. :alan2cents:
:iagree:
Can be done as I mentioned but definitely more stable and safe like Alan said. Like Alan mentioned. It can be pretty nerve racking! If you feel worried about your ability I wouldn't recommend doing it. 2 post lift would make it a lot easier. But we don't all have one of those. So this is plan B.

RUNCHARGER

That`s one of the better ones Ive seen. Simple and nice. I was going to build one last time, however the K-frame was stradding my engine hoist perfectly, I had a large, high reach jack under the trans mount and I just ran the whole setup in there. Dropped the car body down and lifted up the assembly with the engine hoist. I was done before I knew it and no dolly required. That was for my friend Greg, I am going to have to start flat rating jobs for him.
Sheldon

7E-Bodies

I definitely like making specific tools and carts and have tossed together a pretty useful dash restoration cart. I also made my body cart. I have a fair engine/trans cart but fair at best. I can see making one of these.  Thank you!
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

dodj

All the carts/jigs are cool but where do you guys find the space to store it all. It's not like you are swapping engines every day or two and need it close by?
"There is nothing your government can give you that it hasn't already taken from you in the first place" -Winston Churchill


MoparLeo

Just my 2 :alan2cents:. What about gussetting the uprights, at least under the K-member. Looks like because they are so long, someone could accidentally push/bump etc.. one side and cause it to want to bend/lean over. Maybe not. Just a thought.  H.D Polyurethane wheels should work as well, especially when the floor is not as nice as yours.
Have you considered drawing up some plans for the members ? Do we have a forum for this type of stuff already?
moparleo@hotmail.com  For professionally rebuilt door hinges...

7E-Bodies

I try to make my stuff adaptable to serve a multiple purpose. Example in my pic above. The car sits on a body cart that is simply a 3x3x1/4" angle frame, welded to exact e body frame specs. The wheeled base under it is about half of my rotisserie. I bolt the two together with careful drilling and 1/2" bolts. Even though my shop is a converted 40x60 pole barn, I can still clutter it up quickly if I'm careless. When the body cart is no longer needed and the car is on rotisserie, the fabricated "cradle" has a special mounting spot on a wall behind my pallet racks. Out of sight. The quickly scabbed up engine cart I show above, will also be fabbed into a job box cart/firewood cart/etc so it'll share a footprint with whatever duty it's called for. If I had a special cart or stand for each process or task, I'd be out of space and back to working outside like I did 30 years ago. The key for me is keeping things multi purpose.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green

nsmall

You guys are so talented.  Some of you have an artist gene if you think about it.

7E-Bodies

It's more I'm taking your time and thinking over every move.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green