Can you replace studs without pulling axles?

[kawahonda]

Need to replace the dumb LH studs on the driver's side of the vehicle. It makes lug-nut choices nearly impossible. Is this an easy and quick thing, or........?

Does the drum brake system also need to be removed?

[Cuda Cody]

If you take them out I would like to buy them.  I always put them back on my vehicles and they are getting hard to find. 

[Chryco Psycho]

Yes you can but it can be very difficult to seat the new studs fully making it possible for the lug nuts to loosen while driving , it is only 5 bolts to pull the axle & takes only a couple of minutes so I would pull the axle to change them 

[kawahonda]

Thanks! Sounds like it's an easy thing if you know what you're doing.

Chryco, doesn't pulling the axle involve opening up differential, draining fluid, etc?

Couldn't you also just tighten the lug nut back on the new stud to "seat" it?

If only they made ET Conical Lugs in LH, I would be fine leaving them there. They DO make LH ones, but the shank length is .90" which is pretty darn long. That's my other option is buying the long ones and finding a machine shop that can cut the shanks down....

Trying to figure out best path forward. New wheels/tires are just staring at me every time I walk into garage.

[Chryco Psycho]

Not really , jack up the one side , the fluid will stay behind the inner seal , slide out the axle , drive out the studs & drive in new ones & reseat the axle & check end play .
Yes you can try to pull them in but I have stretched studs in the past & damaged lugs trying to pull them in , most are in harder than a lug nut can pull without damage

[RUNCHARGER]

It's pretty easy. It's good to have a few lugnuts that you can sacrifice in the operation. I thread one on the old stud and pound on that then thread it off when the stud is loose.
When installing the new studs carefully make sure the serations are lined up in the axle then use some hardened washers or a piece of pipe as spacers and an open lugnut mounted backwards to pull the studs in. As long as the serations are in the correct spot the new stud will pull in smoothly and will bottom out in the axle. I like using hand tools doing this stuff as it takes longer but you can feel if something is binding.
As Chryco says though it isn't that big of a job to pull the left axle (I agree on tilting the axle down to the right a bit and not draining the fluid) and you can check the condition of the axle bearing that way. Just be careful not to nick the axle tube seal is all. Also be careful when pounding in the new axle studs this way, make sure the serations are lined up and that the stud goes in straight.

[7212Mopar]

How old is the gear oil? I think it is much easier to press them out and put new one in. Also easy to change the axle seals and grease the bearings. These are regular maintainence items anyway.

[kawahonda]

Thanks everyone. Wild R/T is going to hook me up with his lathe tool. Sending him oversized ET Lugs and he's going to cut them down. 10x right anded, 10x left handed. This way, we don't have to worry about doing this.

But everyone brings up great points. Wheel seals and bearing re-packs are absolute musts. Charlie repacked front bearings. Rear bearings and seals need to be done. But I'm planning to do that when I get to the brakes (3rd priority). For now, the decision is to get new modern radials/wheels on there and ditch the bias plys as fast as possible. It's an easy upgrade for aesthetics, safety, and performance.