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Doctor Diff Cobra brake instructions

Started by ledphoot, July 08, 2018, 02:50:36 PM

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ledphoot

Hey guys,

Trying to wrap up the brakes on my Cuda and I cannot find any instructions on the Doctor Diff cobra brake kit. Anybody got a link that can help a brother out?

Also thoroughly confused by 8 3/4 endplay adjustment. I don't see any adjuster anywhere to make said adjustment. Can't find my damn factory service manual. Any help with that would be awesome as well.

Thanks.

1 Wild R/T

Axle endplay is set on the passenger side axle... But when using rear discs most kits require Green bearings & Dr Diff loves green bearings so chances are thats what you have... And they are not adjustable...

Ok, I went & looked, his kit does work with both bearing designs.... Look at the passenger side, there should be an adjuster that looks like the picture...

ledphoot

Yes that solves the endplay adjustment. Thanks!!!



shawge

#3
Here's my install.
11.7" rear disc brake kit from Cass (Dr Diff).  The kit uses '94-'04 Mustang Cobra (not GT) calipers. pads, and rotors. The rear track width is pushed out 3/16" per side with the stage 3 and 4 kits. Stage 3 kits use a 1989 Toyota Cressida rotor.
Rear end is an S-60 w/ Oversize (Ford Torino) bearings. Using these bearings requires the caliper bracket in the Dr Diff kit to be enlarged to 3.160" to clear the 3.150" bearings (brads70 has a pic showing how he enlarged the bracket with a mill).  No modification to the bracket is required if OEM or "green" bearings are used.

Most of the pics are showing the install on the left side of the car.

Remove wheel

Remove bearing retainer

Another view of the U-shaped retainer and bearing

Slip caliper bracket onto axle, flat face of caliper bracket goes towards the outside and the bracket is angled towards the rear of the car.  Note that gaskets are NOT required when using the Set20 bearings - using OEM bearings will require the use of foam and/or steel gaskets.  The U-shaped bearing retainer will seat the bearing and compress enough to secure the caliper bracket.

Now is a good time to install the brake line  bracket.  Much easier to do before things start getting in the way.  There are two sets of small threaded holes.  The bracket is fastened to the upper set of holes, on the side facing towards the differential.  I have a picture showing the driver side bracket and flexible line orientation later on in this thread.

Make sure the bearing race is clean and reinstall the axle shaft  Reinstall the U-shaped bearing retainer and torque the nuts to 35 ft-lbs.
If necessary, here is where end play is adjusted (ex: 8.75")

Test fit the rotor and caliper.  The caliper will need to be centered on the rotor with the shims provided in the brake kit.  I had to use two shims on both caliper bolts to get it centered.  Once centered, tighten down the caliper bolts

Attach the flexible brake hose to the caliper with two copper crush washers and a banjo bolt, routing the hose down from the caliper and then up to the brake line bracket.   Tighten down the banjo bolt.

Reinstall the wheel, torque the lug nuts as per FSM, and bleed the brake system.

Have not installed yet but the parking brake cable comes in from the bottom to the caliper and other end snakes up to the cable adjuster.
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet

shawge

#4
Second set
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet

ledphoot

#5
AWESOME!!!

Thanks a bunch.

I was able to get the front brakes sorted out after looking at some pics on Cass's website... They'd really only go on ONE way :) So I got that done and got the rear axles installed and somewhat adjusted, need to borrow a dial indicator to properly set the lash, then I will finish up the rear brakes and call it good.

For those of you considering the big stage III brake kit from Doctor Diff they are pretty nice and they fit 17" torque thrust wheels, barely, but they do fit...

I wish I could have done more today, but working in 98 degree heat with no AC and doing the front brake mounts four times to get them right pretty well wore me out. 






shawge

 :bigthumb:

Didn't know you meant the front brakes :)  Here's a stage 4 for reference
1970 Challenger, 451 MS3Pro EFI
Colored wiring diagrams
Wheel spreadsheet


ledphoot

#7
That's one heck of a setup on those stage 4 brakes. Wow


I am going to have to be happy with the stage 3 for a bit. As I do all of these upgrades I am beginning to question how excessive they are for a street cruiser ;) I may have to go to a auto-x or two just to justify what I am doing.

1 Wild R/T

That's a Brembo radial mount.... Smart... You want a bigger rotor, simply add a spacer equal to the radius change & your done...   

Burdar

Next time you have the front wheels off, maybe consider painting the rotor "hats" black.  I've got the same stage three kit and that's what I'll be doing.  The zinc coating on the rotors will start to corrode and look crappy.  Not to mention that the rotors kind of look weird all zinc coated.  :alan2cents: