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Front Brake Line Routing

Started by Dean N, March 08, 2021, 02:49:46 PM

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Dean N

I know there have been threads in the past regarding correct routing, but does it matter if complete correctness is not the goal? Other than the obvious, what is the difference? Is there anything that mandates one path versus the other? For an entire new system, can I just pick one and go with it?

I ask because I am starting with an empty engine bay and have no idea what the car came with, and see no evidence (to me) of how they may have once been. Are the mounting tabs for the hose/line transition an indicator?

TIA!

Dean
1972 'Cuda 340

Cuda Cody

It's r=pretty easy to call or message @MoparDave  and just have him send you the lines.  Super easy to line up and they come with all the attachment hardware.  That's what I would do if I was you.

And welcome to the forum @Dean N   :welcome:

Mrbill426



340challconvert

#3
Dean
:welcome: Go the site.
Good advice going with Mopar Dave and getting the correct lines as a set.
There are some differences. I just installed new lines and valves on my 70 A66.
Early 70's came with a two piece front to back lines with an intermediate proportioning valve under the driver's seat.
Later e bodies had a one piece line.
Valves were also different off the master cyl.; from a 3 to combined 2 valve setup after 70.
My lines to the calipers go under the frame; later cars go through an opening in the inner fender.
The correct combination of lines and valves do go in easy.
Dave will be able to guide you.


Data Moderator A66 Challenger Registry

Owner of 1970 A66 Challenger convertible

MoparDave

Welcome Dan.

please feel free to give us a Call on these lines. We can supply OE steel or stainless pre bent line sets. 586-859-2613 you can ask for Jon as well.
Please Email me at daver@manciniracing.com or call 586-790-4100

Dean N

Thanks for the welcoming and for the insight.

MoparDave, I'll be calling in a few minutes!

Dean

tparker

I sorta rerouted my brake lines on my car. There are numerous pics on line where you can get a good sense on how to do it. I bought some line and bent it myself. It doesn't look nearly as good as if you buy pre bent tubes and you have to buy an extra tool and spend the effort to do it. If you can afford it, I would follow others advise and look into buying a pre-bent line.

In my case, I bought a front disc conversion kit and I didn't do a good job researching it. So the master cylinder was different and in a different spot. So I connected the proportion valve just under the master cylinder then loosely followed the path down to where it would go to the fire wall. From there I just followed a basic path that the old one followed. I had the old line that I used as a template, but really, I didn't need it. The firewall has some mounting points that you just follow. I don't think you want to radically change where it is mounted. The path is pretty straight forward and there shouldn't be any reason to deviate from that too much. 


Dean N

Thanks.

My car started as a disc/drum, so the MC & PBB are set, and I found a couple lines in the boxes I have unpacked so far, but not all of them. Rather than try to piece it together with some ~30 year old stuff and new stuff, I plan to pop for a pre-bent set, though I will have to do some work myself to include a line-lock in the system. I found a NIB Wilwood proportioning valve in my stash, but I don't think that is necessary. The original one should be here, but I'm thinking all new might be a good idea.