Front end alignment

[Bpret]

Just replaced my steering box (manual 16:1 ratio) also replaced strut rod bushings and adjusted ride height. I will be getting a front end alignment next Monday. Looking for what specs to use. I have heard all different things ie:get as much caster as possible use 2006 mustang specs. The car is completely stock no mods except the 16:1 ratio 14 inch rally wheels bf Goodrich brown wall tires(if you have them you know)

[dodj]

Well, if it's stock you won't get much caster. You really should put in some moog offset bushings in the uca's before the alignment. then you could get 3-4*

[70 Challenger Lover]

You'll want a tiny bit of negative camber, like 1/4 degree. Some like 1/2 degree.

You'll need about 1/16" toe in.

On caster, the factory didn't design in much positive caster because of the tire technology at the time. Today's tire benefit from lots of positive caster so that's why guys ask the alignment shops to dial in as much as possible however, in doing so, it makes it tough to hit the correct camber number. That's why guys also recommend the offset bushings.

[usraptor]

I also installed the 16.1 manual box in my 1970, 440, 4-speed, 'Cuda, during the restoration.  The first photo is what the technician set my alignment at and it was perfect.  After 2500 miles the tires are wearing perfectly.  However, I do have 15" wheels and BF Goodrich radial tires so I don't know how much if any difference there is in the alighment specs between 14" and 15" wheels and tires.  Also, my technician did say that there is a difference in alignment specs between radial and bias ply tires. The second post is the specs of a members car with power steering.

[HP2]

The reason for the 5th gen Mustang (04-14) specs is because many new shops do not have a tech that is good at aligning pre-computerized cars and the Mustang specs are recent enough to be in the database of most "toe and go" alignment shops that are going to have a basic mechanic guy turn the adjusters until the screen turns green, rather than read actual numbers and angles. However, they are considerably more aggressive than what can be hit with a classic mopar.

However, the above logic is best applied to wider than original radial tires and the over-assisted stock style power steering. Extra caster adds extra steering effort, faster return to center, and greater high speed stability. Negative camber provides better grip during body roll. Toe in allows all joints to absorb built in tolerances while allowing the tire to track straight in motion.

With a manual box, you may not want high caster figures because of the extra effort it will introduce to your system.  With bias ply tires, you won't want negative camber because they  will not wear evenly. Slight toe in is still a good thing here as it is needed as a result of the mechanical layout, not steering assist or tire construction.

So, its up to you on whether original manual steering specs are desirable or you want a bit of extra caster and increased effort. Depending on how you drive and if you have radials, you can decide if you want more camber to provide slightly better cornering grip. If you don't want to mess with any of it, go with the OEM specs.

[Bpret]

Thanks for the replies. I do have radial tires the 16:1 ratio box is a better feel on the road but it is a bit harder to turn in a parking lot. I will talk to the guy doing the alignment see what he thinks he is an older guy who owns his own shop so I'm hoping it's more than a set the toe and let it go alignment.

[Bpret]

I got the front end alignment today. Car drives good goes straight no issues. I asked the tech performing the alignment if he could get as much caster as possible. He said he wasn't able to get much without the camber going out. The new steering box feels much tighter but seems to have too much play when going straight. I called borgenson and they said it is preset when rebuild is performed he thinks it's something in the front end,there was no mention of anything when getting the alignment. I will get up in the air and check the front end parts.

[HP2]

Sounds good. Yes, there is a definite caster/camber limitation with the stock control arm and bushings that  makes it difficult to get really improved caster numbers.

I have seen some reviews where guys didn't think the Borgeson unit really was improved over stock in the straight ahead mode, but once you stared turn the wheels is where its improved feel really was noticeable. I have no personal experience with this myself. The ball/socket arrangement of all the front end parts means there is some slop to take up in the system. It i s very, very minor in each piece, but add them up and it could produce a dead spot on center. This is why it is best to align with a slight toe in condition so the road force will push all those tolerances to keep the tires pointing straight in motion.