Horn not working, column assembled wrong?

[WhiskeyRebel]

Hi All,
So when I first brought my 72 Challenger home, I knew it had some electrical issues, one of which was the horn did not work.  After chasing every wire I could, I finally figured out the problem.  The little copper unicycle wheel in the column is not making contact with the plate because it is too far away.  There is a gap between the crush can and the ignition collar preventing the wheel to contact (see picture).  Any ideas on what would cause this? The can is tightened all the way.  Are there different cans out there?  Among the spare parts the previous owner gave me with the car is a column shift auto column (no can).  Car is currently 4spd console but it is likely the previous owner mixed parts. Any suggestions would be appreciated.  Yes, I know I need to restore the whole column and have studied Cody's videos.  It's on the list.
Thanks,
Matt

[anlauto]

If I had to guess...the previous owner likely messed up the spline on the steering shaft and probably didn't get the alignment of the main spline right and just tightened it up anyways....you could try and see if you can get the nut tighter, but I'm guessing you've already tried....

[WhiskeyRebel]

Thanks for the reply and scratching your head with me.  It appears to be lined up correctly.  I have had it on/off several times and it goes on and off smoothly and the one fat spline is lined up correctly.  But the can is definitely not seated down all the way on the splines.  I dont think it will go any further but I have not tried to really crank down on it.  It is almost like they are different diameters which is why I was wondering if there are different cans for different shafts? I'll pull the wheel and see if I can get a picture of it seated on the shaft with the nut pulled.

(sorry some of my pics post sideways, not sure why)

[Cuda Cody]

   Make sure the spline is lined up correctly.  Post a photo of the splines.  Sometimes they can get messed up about half way down and that might be stopping it from sucking up tight.  Be careful with the nut and tightening... it can strip out on you.

[anlauto]

The spline size is common across all the Mopars of the day...maybe with a larger socket on an extension, try hammering over the nut on to the crush can to see if you can get the crush can down further...I agree with Cody, trying to draw it down with the nut will likely strip the nut out.

[WhiskeyRebel]

Thank you both for the help.  I just pulled it apart and the more I look at it, it is just not seated down all the way.  I am waiting on a new cancel cam.  Once that arrives and is installed, I will try to get the can to seat down all the way.  I'll clean up both sides real good. I have some micro files if I need to remove any burrs in the splines and I'll put some oil on before trying to seat it.  I'll persuade it if necessary with something that fits over as you suggest, but gently as Cody says never beat on a steering shaft (see, I pay attention).

Here's some pics.  Tough to get a good focus on the inside of the can splines but this is from the back, so where all that junk can be seen on the splines is the part that is not seating.  Overall they look in pretty good shape, maybe just a good cleaning, some lube, and a little encouragement.  Definitely dont want to crank down on that nut as I can feel any more would probably strip it. Tough to tell with it being that weird lock nut.

Thanks again.  I'll post up the resolution when it happens.
Matt

[Chryco Psycho]

Is the shaft able to move up & down or is it tight ?
you might have a problem with the shaft position

[anlauto]

Yea, if the snap ring is out of place the shaft will have in and out play, but that should actually make the crush can move in closer....the splines look good 

[Cuda Cody]

Splines look good.  You can take a small triangle file and lightly file between the splines to make sure they are nice and clean.  Do both the shaft and the can and then use some grease to assemble it and it should seat all the way down.  But like Chryco and Alan said, there might be a different issue down in the column. 

[Shoooter]

Did you make sure the horn relay is in and working?

[WhiskeyRebel]

Sorry, just saw this.  Yes, I did check the relay as part of my original diagnostics.  The horns work if I apply juice directly to them.  I may have burnt the relay during my poking around so it did need repair.  I couldnt find a replacement so I fixed the one I have.  The closest wire in the picture (#2 pin) was burned through but there was enough slack in it so I could resolder it.  Tested and it works fine.  I am pretty sure the gap in the crush can is my issue.  i have jumped that and the horn works.  I am just lining up some parts (including the column parts) to all be painted at once before re-assembling and hopefully getting that crush can to seat properly.