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Proper way to adjust torsion bars

Started by Mopsquad, February 07, 2018, 09:51:22 AM

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73440

@mopar jack , could I ask what book that excerpt is from .

BIGSHCLUNK

I know its not the "book" way but we use impact gun.... bbbzzzt no to low... bbzzzt little more ....b bzzzt ...ya that's good..  :burnout:

Brads70

Quote from: Mopsquad on February 08, 2018, 06:16:02 PM
Quote from: 6bblgt on February 07, 2018, 07:22:47 PM
the pivot nut is where the lower control arm pivots, for the minimum you are changing your ride height, I wouldn't worry about it

but it isn't supposed to be tightened until the ride height is set, to NOT preload the lower control arm bushing

Sorry, a bit confused.  To adjust the ride height, need to tighten a certain bolt/nut etc...   

The pivot nut/bolt, is that what I use to raise/lower the ride height or, is there another nut/bolt used to adjust ride height? 
The main shaft that goes through the k-frame is what they are calling the pivot shaft/ nut, loosen than nut so it does not preload the bushing if equipped with stock rubber bushing. Then from under the car in the bottom of the lower control arm is the torsion bar adjusting bolt. If I remember right one full turn is about 1/8"-1/4" ride height .
Do Not ALIGN YOUR CAR TO STOCK BIAS PLY TIRE SPECS, ( unless your using bias ply tires) it will handle horribly. You might get away with aligning it for more camber and all the caster you can get. This might solve your rubbing issues without having to touch the torsion bar ride heights.
Here is a good post to read....
https://forum.e-bodies.org/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-and-steering/12/checklist-for-alignment-shop-update-numbers-in/1681/msg24509#msg24509


mopar jack

That page is from, performance handling for classic mopars by  Tom Condran. I found the book very useful when I started my project in 1996.

73440

Quote from: mopar jack on February 08, 2018, 09:11:27 PM
That page is from, performance handling for classic mopars by  Tom Condran. I found the book very useful when I started my project in 1996.

http://www.laysons.com/SearchPartNumber.cfm
Thank you @mopar jack , I may add it to my reference library.

Mopsquad

Thanks everyone!  This has been very helpful.  Not too soon enough, the stainless trim on the other side now is bent up.  I did not take into consideration the clearance issues with the new 245 front tires and the low front end ride height.  Maybe a little more negative camber if possible.



my two girls

Shane Kelley

- camber would help but that would be minimal. Can you roll the trim up out of the way? Another thing to consider is just being extra careful making sharp turns on uneven surfaces.


Mopsquad

Quote from: Shane Kelley on February 12, 2018, 10:01:31 AM
- camber would help but that would be minimal. Can you roll the trim up out of the way? Another thing to consider is just being extra careful making sharp turns on uneven surfaces.

The trim kinda follows the fender lip so I'd have to roll the fenders to bend it up.  For some reason it catches the trim, maybe it overhangs (slightly) past the fender lip.

cataclysm80

Quote from: mopar jack on February 08, 2018, 09:11:27 PM
That page is from, performance handling for classic mopars by  Tom Condran. I found the book very useful when I started my project in 1996.


It's a pretty good book, with lots of useful info.

Keep in mind though that it's focus is on improving handling (on a budget) by using factory parts scavenged from junk yards and swap meets.

When the book says that you'll never need a torsion bar stiffer than the factory Hemi bar, I definitely disagree.
Big torsion bars are great, and they're not just for race cars.

Still, the book has a lot of good info.  It's a pretty good reference manual on what parts will swap between different years and models, and provides the info that you need to make your own decisions instead of just copying someone else's build.

Don't hesitate to buy tubular upper control arms and big torsion bars after reading the book though.  We've progressed a bit in the past 20 years since the book was written.  We had Very Little aftermarket support for Mopars back then.

cataclysm80

Quote from: 71383bee on February 07, 2018, 10:09:00 AM
Others will likely add more here but from what i recall of the factory manual is the adjustment is done on level ground and its measured by measuring the distance from the ground to the part of the K frame where the LCA attaches and then measuring again at the lowest hanging part of the LCA and the ground.  The difference between the numbers is your target.  Its something like 1.5" or so. 

For adjusting you only need to adjust the pivot bolt located inside the lower control arm.  Use no less that a half inch ratchet and a deep socket so you don't round the bolt.  Its a hard bolt to budge so its good to spray some penetrating oil on the threaded guide that's in the LCA.   You'll see it. There's a window and you'll see the bolt threading through a flat bracket.  Tighten to raise....loosen to lower.  Its good to adjust a few turns then bounce the car to see where it ends up.   

Hope this helps.


Yes, follow the Factory Service Manual for adjusting ride height.  (you don't lift the car off the ground)
The factory method balances the front end weight side to side.
If you need it, the Factory Service Manual is a free download available in the resources section of this website.