tapered washers

[Burdar]

I'm using Magnumforce drop spindles on my project.  The LBJ to spindle bolts have a tapered head and are countersunk into the spindle.  As you can see, the bolt/nut sticks out the back pretty far and contacts the swaybar mounting tabs on the lower control arm.  I could cut the excess threads off of the bolt however, I still think there will be an interference issue.


I had the idea of using a washer like this to fill the tapered section of the spindle.
http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/large/dag/685-056-b-007.jpg

Then I could just use a regular grade 8 bolt and flip it around so the nut is on the outside. That would give me about an extra 5/8" of room right there.  Would this be an acceptable solution?  As long as the taper of the washer matches the taper of the spindle, I think it would work.

[Brads70]

I'm think the problem will be then the nut/bolt contacting the rotor?  It would have been much easier for magnum force to simply drill for a hole instead of machining for a tapered socket head cap screw? Must be a reason?  You might have to switch to a different sway bar and mounting tabs? 
Like E/B body?

[anlauto]

The clearance between the spindle and rotor will never change, so I don't see why your idea wouldn't work ?

[Cuda Cody]

The conical washer should be fine, but I'm worried the brake disc will hit the nut.  Try mocking up the disc and see if you have the clearance.

[Burdar]

I've got 1-9/16" between the spindle and the rotor.  A nut and hardened washer would be about 5/8" thick.(if I even need a washer)  There's plenty of room on that side.  A swaybar change would mean a K-member change to the 73+ style, which would also require new motor mounts. That wouldn't be fun.

Maybe some different brake systems have the rotor closer to the spindle so the countersunk head would be required?  Don't know.  I just wanted to make sure there wouldn't be any issues with the conical washer.  I couldn't think of anything but wanted to ask smarter folks.

It looks like O'Reilly's has the washers for under $2.  I'd just do that on the front bolt since the rear bolt doesn't get close to anything.

[Cuda Cody]

Sounds like a good plan.  After you drive it a bit, double check to make sure the conical washer and bolt are still tight.  But I don't see any reason why it will not work.   

[HP_Cuda]

Should work, try it out and post pics!!!

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Where is the intended steering stop and how far away are you from it? Something has to be the limiting factor.


In my opinion, don't overcomplicate it, trim the bolt down. 

These are safety critical and alignment critical components. You want to induce the least amount of risk or variation into that system, just trim the bolt down and let everything else work as it was designed to.

[Burdar]

The steering isn't mocked up yet so I don't know how far the wheel will be turned when the steering box is at the end of its travel.  When the bolt hits though, the wheel doesn't look like it's turned much at all.  Even with the bolt turned around, I wonder if the head will hit before the steering is at its stop.  I think a lot of people update to the later K-member when they install the later spindles.

One of the next things I'll do is get the steering mocked up.  I'm just anticipating the problem and trying to come up with a solution.

[GoodysGotaCuda]

For what it's worth, my stock knuckles stop on that bolt too, but it's at an unreasonable angle.

When in a right turn, the -passenger- side steering stop does the limiting. Not the front of the drivers side..


Get the steering in before coming up with a fix to a problem that may not exist.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[anlauto]

E Body and A Body sway bar mounts are radically different on the lower control arm

[Burdar]

You've got about twice the movement that I have.

[Brads70]

I found it's designed to limit the travel by the "nubs" on the lower control arms. Not on some internal stop in the box. A body and B/E bodys are different in that respect . A bodys have a contact nub that stick out , E Bodys have one that sticks in giving more travel. When I use A Body lowers I have to compensate by milling down that nub on the lower ball joint to gain back the travel. If the bolt is hitting something is wrong... 


A-body ( fresh black paint0 on the left, E/B body on the right.

[Brads70]

Another idea/ possibility is to flip the sway bar, cut off the tabs and buy/make tabs that weld onto the top of the lower control arm. So the link kits might provide the needed clearance.

[HP_Cuda]

Burdar

Based on your original photo, even if you took out the tab it looks like the bolt would hit the LCA anyway. It looks like the stock location would be higher and to the inside where you would have full travel.

This looks to be a geometry problem and I think your original thought is in the right direction.

B