To "Power" or "Not to power" disc brake conversion

[Skdmark]

I plan on replacing my manual 10" drums with 11x2.5" HD drums in the back and 11-3/4" discs in the front.
The MC will most likely be a 3461187 or equivalent.

Should I install a Bendix Single Diaphragm power booster as well?

Usage:
The car is a street cruiser that my wife and teenage daughter drive as well.
Small town driving 30-40mph and country roads 55-65mph.

[EDL94]

You are already changing the brakes from stock. Add the booster and make it safer and more comfortable to drive.

[EV2RTSE]

I see no reason not to. And if you should happen to be looking for a 1971 Bendix booster, 3461187 master & linkage send me a PM. 

[Skdmark]

Thanks for the input so far.
BTW: Looks like if I do manual discs, I should be using MC 2229271.

I'm trying to keep any mods I do to the car "bolt-on" and reversable.
I hate having to knock out the 2 studs on the manual brake setup to install the booster.

[torredcuda]

When I built my Barracuda I went from drums to a factory power disc set up which worked fine except for idling in traffic. My cam was too lumpy and didn`t have enough vacuum which caused a very hard pedal. Instead of adding more crap under the hood to increase vacuum I simply got rid of the booster and changed to a manual master cylinder. Yes, pedal is a bit harder to push but I`m a scrawny weakling and can still lock them up if needed.

[Brads70]

I have manual disc and have no plans to change it. On the plus side it opens up a lot more for cam selection as you have no concerns with enough vacuum  to operate the booster. Also much cheaper without the linkage and booster costs. Or have to worry about a leak.
I have all I need to make my own hydra boost set up but at this point I have no big desire to make it.

[Skdmark]

When I built my Barracuda I went from drums to a factory power disc set up which worked fine except for idling in traffic. My cam was too lumpy and didn`t have enough vacuum which caused a very hard pedal. Instead of adding more crap under the hood to increase vacuum I simply got rid of the booster and changed to a manual master cylinder. Yes, pedal is a bit harder to push but I`m a scrawny weakling and can still lock them up if needed.

Currently vacuum is not a problem.  It's a stockish 318 running a Holley Sniper on a LD4B intake with TTI shorty headers.
Down the road I was planning to swap in a magnum based 408 stroker with 400-425HP.

[worthywads]

I also have manual discs and have no desire to boost.  Yes a strong pedal but my wife has driven it and it's not too firm for her. I don't want the sensitive brakes i remember from past Mopars.

[CudaA39]

Manual drums are significantly different (worse) than manual discs in terms of feel, so even if you skipped the booster you're miles ahead in terms of feel.  My RR is manual drums and my 67 Coronet dragcar had manual discs and they were night n day difference.  As always though, a friendly reminder to new drivers is in order...always a good idea to keep it in the back of your mind.

[Dmod1974]

I loved the feel of the manual brakes when I had stock disc/drums.  It was firmer than power assist of course, but nothing that should prohibit anyone from being able to drive it.  No issues being able to stop it adequately or lock up the brakes if you tried.

[PLUM72]

Anything you can do to the car to make it more "modern" is a good thing, especially in the braking department.  It will go along way in making you or anyone comfortable driving the car.  The average "new" car with ABS brakes and all will stop much quicker than our old rides.  We are all careful, but too many nut jobs on the roads these days.

[chargerdon]

I have a 1966 Dodge Charger that one of the previous owners upgraded the front brakes from standard non power drums, to SSBC brand Discs.    They upgraded the master cylinder in the process as the 66 had single master cylinder, and now it has dual.    Big safety improvement.    They did not however install a power brake booster and yes i can make the car lock up all four wheels, but it takes a lot more pedal pressure than i would like for normal driving.  My wife refuses to drive the car because of this.   

Remember this,  disc brakes everything else being equal, require a lot more pedal pressure than the self energizing drum brakes.  So, without adding a booster switching to disc brakes is not a swell thing in my opinion.

I understand how many would be reluctant to add power to older mopars as i can remember driving my fathers 68 coronet with factory power drum brakes...  woa ...way too touchy.

On the other hand my 74 Challenger has factory power discs and they are beautiful...easy to modulate and yet do not take a lot of pressure.   My engine is a 360LA to 408 Stroker with Lunati Vodoo 703 cam that has a beautiful raspy idle, but, still makes enough vacuum for the power disc brakes even in heavy stop and go traffic.    Cam has a lot to do with it...engine previously had a Mopar Purple performance 508 cam and it did NOT make enough vacuum for city traffic.   Hence one of the reasons i swapped to the Lunati 703 not to mention keeping my eyeteeth in.   

[Chryco Psycho]

I prefer the feel of manual discs , if you want to go to power Hydroboost is awesome