1970 Challenger drip rail trim questions

[broughj]

Hi,

Working to get my 1970 Challenger ready for final body and paint after a couple of year break.  I'm currently trying to fit the drip rail trim and the roof rail weatherstrip retainers and have some questions.  I bought the car mostly disassembled, so trying to figure out what parts I have, if they are usable, and how they fit before I go for paint.

The drip rail trim on the A pillar does not seem to fit like it should.  On the passenger side the holes in the trim line up with the holes in the A pillar, but the trim ends above the top of the fender.  On the drivers side, only the top hole in the trim lines up with the holes in the A pillar.  It too ends above the fender, even more than the passenger side.  The car had the top of door moldings on it, so perhaps that is why they don't fit like I think they should.  I am not going to reinstall the door moldings.  The car was also a vinyl top car.  Have not decided if I will go back with that or not.  Does they way these are fitting look right?  If not, anyone have experience with the fit of the AMD moldings?

I have a bag of screws labeled for the drip rail trim and the roof retainers.  The drip rail I think uses the flat top screw as shown in the picture and the rood retainer uses the other more rounded head screw pictured.  Is this correct?  I don't have enough of the flat top screws.  Are they available anywhere or do I need to find a substitute?

I have two sets of roof rail retainers.  One set is galvanized steel with a stainless steel overlay on the outside edge.  The other set is galvanized on the A pillar section and all stainless on the remainder of the part.  Which is correct for 1970?

Thanks in advance for any help or guidance you can provide.

Regards,

John

[70 Challenger Lover]

First off, the second screw you show that has a large flat head with a slightly rounded top, those hold the weatherstrip trough in. The other flat head screws hold the drip rail to the roof.

I just did my vinyl top and it's a great look. Basically the roof rail strips go on first then the weatherstrip troughs. The roof rails are two piece and they slide together. Smart of you to fit everything before paint! Fit each piece separate first and check for hole alignment. There are only three or four for the entire roof rail.

I recall that I slid the pieces together and sort of gently rolled them onto the roof lip. If that doesn't work, put one on but don't screw it down so you can wiggle things as the next goes together. It curls gently around the roof lip so it shouldn't be a tight fit.

Once you get the roof rail fastened, there are cut out underneath allowing access to the holes the weatherstrip trough needs.

On the a arm by the door, they don't go down all the way. There are little wings that tuck underneath.

[broughj]

Thanks for the pictures 70 Challenger Lover.  Looks like your drip rail trim stops well short of the top of the door as mine does.  So, guess that is the way it is going to be.  I have the small A pillar trim pieces for the vinyl top, but don't have the trim for the rear.  The vinyl top and trim does make the A pillar look finished.  Without that, I'm not so sure how that area would look.   Maybe I will do a vinyl top.

Any leads on where I might get the flat top screws that hold the drip rail trim to the body?

[70 Challenger Lover]

I think I would just use a wood screw. It has a low profile flat top. Easy to find and cheap. No one will see them once it's all together. I think the each side only uses three or so. Don't forget there is a thin foam gasket that goes under each piece. Comes in a roll and compresses extremely thin.

The little A pillar trims can be tough to find and expensive too so good you have them. The vinyl trim across the back is two pieces and fairly easy to find. I think they even reproduce it so that shouldn't be a big hurdle for you.

I know some guys think vinyl tops cause roof rot and others think they look like cheap. The factory never protected the roof well so doing the job right might prevent roof rot. Plus our cars are generally garaged and babied compared to when they were sold new and driven in harsh conditions. As far as the look, I think it's a great look on a high impact color. All that yellow, or green, or orange, etc. can be too much on such a large surface but a vinyl top changes the look completely.

[Claudia]

Here are some pictures of my Cuda fitment which stops short as well . . . I assume they are close to the same fitment as the Challenger.  I also used (#8 I believe) stainless screws from a local hardware store to install as they all get covered up anyway.

[7E-Bodies]

Thanking everyone for this post. I'm just a few weeks from pre fit on all of my chrome as well. Really great info here!

[70 Challenger Lover]

Try polishing the stainless trim yourself. It can be fun and rewarding once you're done. If it has dings, a lot more work but doable if you are patient. Check out Cody's tutorial. Very helpful.

[7E-Bodies]

Ive watched the @Cuda Cody chrome restoration video and I'm looking forward to that stage.

[broughj]

Was the stainless trim originally flash chromed or just polished stainless steel? 

[7E-Bodies]

Yeah, I'm probably terming it wrong. I don't think it's chrome.

[broughj]

Sorry 7E-Bodies, I was not trying to nit-pick your terminology.  Did the1970 Challenger come with polished stainless steel trim or was it flash chromed stainless steel trim?  My understanding is that some manufacturers back in the day would flash chrome their stainless steel trim.  If you have an area of flash chromed trim that you straighten and sand to get smooth and then polish, it is likely that area will look different from a polished flash chromed area.  I spoke with Librandi's Chrome Plating last week about my trim.  They said once they see the trim, they can tell if it was flash chromed or not.  If it is they would remove the plating, straighten and polish it, and then flash chrome it.  I'm sure that would be $$$.  All of my trim has small areas that need to be straightened.  So, trying to decide if I want to tackle the straightening and polishing myself.  If it needs to be flash chromed to look right, then perhaps I'll just have it done.

[Burdar]

The stainless trim was just polished...no chrome.  Other trim pieces like headlight bezels and tail panel/trunk lid trim were anodized aluminum. 

Go buy some wheels and compound from Harbor Freight and have at it.  It's fun.  Make sure to wear gloves and a face shield.

[70 Challenger Lover]

If you scroll up to mine on the orange car, you'll notice they are already polished. I didn't take them to a mirror chrome like finish but they are very nice and shiny. Way better than most older classic cars and that's only about ten or twenty minutes per piece.

[7E-Bodies]

I'm thinking trim restoration will be a great rainy day or winter day bench job with the wood stove and a pot of coffee.  I've landed two bench grinders to switch over to buffer wheels and also have some small buffer disks for my Dremel sets. I'm looking forward to it. Also, if it helps, here is a non intentional shot of where the trim drops to my door. I'd had it on for fit checks.

[anlauto]

Cody has some terrific videos on restoring and buffing trim  https://www.e-bodies.org/videos/