Challenger rear valance differences, 1970 to 1974

[rftroy]

Was out working on my Challenger and noticed that the rear valance that came with the car had a very washed out note that read, '1974 Challenger'.

I got these photos from AMD, and they show that mine is a 74 model.

The differences I see are the bracket welded onto the license plate area on the 74 valance, and the 3 holes on the bottom of the 70-71 valance.

Is the panel itself the same stamping?  Can I remove the license plate bracket and drill 3 holes and have a 70 valance, or is there some major difference that will make the valance unusable?

Robert

[Morty426]

The other difference is in the support braces.  71 and up have the braces as part of the valence.  70 has the braces as separate pieces. 

[rftroy]

Let's see if I've got this right.  I just took a look at the 74 valance and there is one bracket in the middle.  On the 70 car crossmember, there are two pairs of weld nuts ~18.25 inches apart, which appears to correspond with the holes in the bottom of the 70 valance.
Looking at the picture of the AMD rear valance brackets, am I right in thinking that the 2 slotted holes in each bracket are to line up with the two sets of weld nuts in the crossmember, and the hole at the bottom of the bracket lines up with the holes in the bottom of the valance?

If this is correct, what does the upper hole in each bracket line up with in the valance, and are they attached with a bolt and nut?

Thanks,
Robert

[anlauto]

The 70 valance has two holes along the top edge not visible in your picture. The stamping is otherwise pretty much the same. You could remove the center mounting bracket, the license plate bracket, purchase the 70 brackets drill some holes and you're all set.

[1 Wild R/T]

Or you can drill one hole in the rear cross piece for a screw through the center bracket.. I done both and unless your trying to have a judge be impressed no one's gonna know the difference...

[anlauto]

  exactly

[rftroy]

Thanks, all.
I now know that the valance stamping itself is correct, and now I have options for attaching.
I have a supply of knurled threaded inserts that I use for fiberglass work, so I will probably put them in the crossmember and make a clean installation.
This is a 318 to 500 Six Pack Restomod, so form, fit and function are more important than correctness.

Thanks again,
Robert