Main Menu

Cut and Buff

Started by Rev-It-Up, June 16, 2017, 09:01:22 AM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Rev-It-Up

My eyes and ears are bleeding from watching so many youtubes about how to cut and buff your new paint job.  Each have their own idea of what works best, but most have been professionals and assume a lot.  I have never done this before and would like some advice on how a novice can do this without cutting into the paint.  I understand the basics: Sand, Sand, Compound, Polish.  But, what products do you use? What type papers, pads, machines do you use? Tips, techniques, processes?   I would prefer not to spend a ton of money on new machines so this is what I currently have on hand; a random orbital, a DA sander (too fast for this project?) and an auto paint shop down the road. Palm sanders are relatively cheap, so you can count that in the mix too.

OK...I am a sponge...let the learning begin.
Rev-It-Up

pink aar

For you, maybe youtube would be a good start if you don't have any experience. There are so many factors, but it is basically  all the same.  It's all about how sick you want it.  What products did you use and how many coats of clear or if you flow coated the cear? I use PPG paint with 2002 clear with DCX61 hardner. I like to want about 2-3 weeks before I buff.The longer you wait, the harder is it. This allows for everything to settle (paint and clear -shrinkage) I use 3M perfect compounds(purple) and foam pads ( ebay for the best prices). I start with 1200 grit, then use the first stage of compound to see what I'm working with. If it's good, I go to 2000 grit. It's all about how slick you want it, depends how much you cut and buff( if you have enough clear on your car). The first time may not be nice enough , so you may have to wet sand buff again. Watch the edges???? Watch the rotation of the buffer on the edges. LET THE BUFFER DO THE WORK. Keep it moving slowly.
Do no use that orbital sander without any experience. You will need a hard foam block for sanding. I use a yard ruler made out of maple, in the curves I used PVC 3/4 or 1inch. Maple will not flex  2wx9long
I hope this is a good start for you. I'm sure someone else on here can help you also.


GOOD LUCK. If you didn't  live so far away, I would give you some pointers. I live  in Georgia also.

Cuda Cody

This is on my list to make a a video of.  A video that is easy to understand and also explains more then 1 technique based on each persona paint and expectations.  I purchased a digital paint measuring device so I can back up with factual numbers the process and how much you "can sand" without going through the clear.  But this not going to help you now so I'll probably call you to walk you through some things.

Like Pink AAR said, how many coats and the brand of clear will come in to play if you are going to be aggressive and chase a show finish paint.  I've started with 600 (which I do not recommend unless you prepared for it by applying 4 to 5 good coats of clear) all the way to starting with 1500.  But I think it will be best if we talk on the phone.  I'm heading to the Mecum auction right now, but I can talk while I walk around and look at cars or I can have my wife drive and I'll chat on the drive there.


Shane Kelley

I like to go around with a real small block. Like 1"x1" and nib all the big dirt chunks first with 1000. Best advise is stay off the body lines and edges. They go through fast. Hopefully Cody can walk you through it on the phone.

Rev-It-Up

Quote from: Cuda Cody on June 16, 2017, 01:51:04 PM
This is on my list to make a a video of.  A video that is easy to understand and also explains more then 1 technique based on each persona paint and expectations.  I purchased a digital paint measuring device so I can back up with factual numbers the process and how much you "can sand" without going through the clear.  But this not going to help you now so I'll probably call you to walk you through some things.

Like Pink AAR said, how many coats and the brand of clear will come in to play if you are going to be aggressive and chase a show finish paint.  I've started with 600 (which I do not recommend unless you prepared for it by applying 4 to 5 good coats of clear) all the way to starting with 1500.  But I think it will be best if we talk on the phone.  I'm heading to the Mecum auction right now, but I can talk while I walk around and look at cars or I can have my wife drive and I'll chat on the drive there.

Ok...sent you my number. Ready with pen and paper ready! 🤓
Rev-It-Up

IMNCARN82

3000 grit trisect paper on an air palm sander with the psi low and foam pad/interface .  Lots of water.    it will foam up.   Keep moving along with a spray bottle er hose.  gotta tape/prep the car too!   don't wanna hit anything with the buffer!   sanding is the "cut"   real quick to knock the "orange peel"  off.  Most cars don't need real board sanding at this stage. it can do way more harm than good!   I've seen a lot of people break through with boards.     

Now the "buff"    is easy.  just 1,2,3...    do one panel at a time.  starting at the roof.  Cody here will show ya!   :yes:   


:needphotos:

lemme see that color!!!!

R/T
round tail lights forever !!

JS29

They make 5000 grit trisect, you don't need compound just machine glaze and A finishing pad. For entertainment I Used A clean old tee shirt and compound first and hand polished it and could have gotten away it like that. They say to do A 2 square section at A time when you buff. Good luck,   Mark.