Door Alignment Tricks

[gzig5]

I've got the doors really close, but every time I go to make that last tweak it seams to move another way. Hinges are rebuilt and doors are fully assembled with window, so full weight. Fenders are off. I had been leaving the inside bolts loose and found that doesn't work well when they are finally tightened up.  The latch posts are out.  I've tried using shims between door and sill, and the jack to position the door and that gets them close, but it seems to be that last little bit that I'm missing.  Haven't been able to find a good video.  Appreciate any words of wisdom.  Feel like I'm going to wear the bolts out before I get them where they need to be.

[RUNCHARGER]

Two bolts a bit loose, 1 just a smidge loose then hit the hinge the way you want it to go with a hammer. Way easier and faster than it sounds. When you tap it, watch closely by lining up the hinge with a spot of dust or whatever next to it to see how far it moves. If it moves, snug up that bolt and look at your door gap, repeat if necessary.

[1 Wild R/T]

Couple things, first I put tape below and behind the striker bolt, then I remove it... You don't want the bolt effecting how the door closes... Then I tape reference lines around both hinges... As Sheldon mentioned loosen all but one fastener, then slightly loosen the final fastener & tap with a hammer & soft faced punch...

Once you get the door perfect reinstall the striker & see if it pulls the door up or down & make sure it double latches & pulls the door in to the proper depth..

[gzig5]

Sounds like I was working with it a bit too loose.  I have a nice 5lb hammer and brass punch to assist me. 
Does it make a difference targeting the height first or the rotation top to bottom first?  Height mostly depends on jamb mounted bolts and rotation the ones going into the door.
Yesterday I had the height, body line, rear gap perfect and I went to rotate the bottom out a touch and blew it all to hell. 

[RUNCHARGER]

Darn: Yes I set the in out first by getting the bottom even with the rocker and then the top even with the quarter panel. Really though you have to be adjusting the height at the same time. Then tweak them both again when it's closer.

[gzig5]

I've made some headway and have the driver side door aligned pretty well at this point and all the bolts are tight.  I decided to mount the spare door so I could try and fix the big crease in the original with it off  the car.  Anyway, I put the striker bolt in and got it adjusted to where the door just barely lifts going onto the striker.  But I find that the door is not "closing" solidly and will wobble back and forth on the latch bolt and isn't being pulled in or hitting a solid stop. Is this because I removed the perimeter rubber gasket from the door when I was cleaning the rust of the bottom edge, or is there an adjustment in the latch assy?  The original door always latched fine, but it also had it's gasket on at the time.

[7E-Bodies]

I concur with reply #1 and reply #2 and will add that I also use a jack (CAREFULLY and with PADDING) at the bottom of the door towards the rear to support it. This insures I don't move it a mile when tapping it in a certain direction. I also use pencil marks at the hinge locations to mark where I was. Tape would work as well.

[Dmod1974]

I've made some headway and have the driver side door aligned pretty well at this point and all the bolts are tight.  I decided to mount the spare door so I could try and fix the big crease in the original with it off  the car.  Anyway, I put the striker bolt in and got it adjusted to where the door just barely lifts going onto the striker.  But I find that the door is not "closing" solidly and will wobble back and forth on the latch bolt and isn't being pulled in or hitting a solid stop. Is this because I removed the perimeter rubber gasket from the door when I was cleaning the rust of the bottom edge, or is there an adjustment in the latch assy?  The original door always latched fine, but it also had it's gasket on at the time.

I chased my tail with this recently myself.  It will be loose and rattle in and out without the rubber bumpers and door seal in place.  Make sure the latch clicks twice though as you close the door too; that caused me some confusion as well.

[gzig5]

I've made some headway and have the driver side door aligned pretty well at this point and all the bolts are tight.  I decided to mount the spare door so I could try and fix the big crease in the original with it off  the car.  Anyway, I put the striker bolt in and got it adjusted to where the door just barely lifts going onto the striker.  But I find that the door is not "closing" solidly and will wobble back and forth on the latch bolt and isn't being pulled in or hitting a solid stop. Is this because I removed the perimeter rubber gasket from the door when I was cleaning the rust of the bottom edge, or is there an adjustment in the latch assy?  The original door always latched fine, but it also had it's gasket on at the time.

I chased my tail with this recently myself.  It will be loose and rattle in and out without the rubber bumpers and door seal in place.  Make sure the latch clicks twice though as you close the door too; that caused me some confusion as well.

I don't think I'm hearing two clicks on the latch.  What would that be?  I know there is an adjustment screw above the latch but I don't know what it does. 
I don't have a good door to compare too because the other side is missing the entire B-pillar jamb at the moment.  I'll get the gasket on there.  Could be the latch too.  This door apparently spent a few years on a barn floor and the latch is pretty filthy at the moment. 

[1 Wild R/T]

I've made some headway and have the driver side door aligned pretty well at this point and all the bolts are tight.  I decided to mount the spare door so I could try and fix the big crease in the original with it off  the car. Anyway, I put the striker bolt in and got it adjusted to where the door just barely lifts going onto the striker.  But I find that the door is not "closing" solidly and will wobble back and forth on the latch bolt and isn't being pulled in or hitting a solid stop. Is this because I removed the perimeter rubber gasket from the door when I was cleaning the rust of the bottom edge, or is there an adjustment in the latch assy?  The original door always latched fine, but it also had it's gasket on at the time.

than it's wrong...Go back and read my first post... As far as not getting two clicks, the striker needs to move out slightly..

[jimynick]

Setting the door w/o the w/s can be a PITA. As mentioned the door should, when closing, click twice. The fun part comes in as the now double clicked door has to be pulled up tight against the striker to simulate it when the w/s IS installed. Patience is required and remember that no ebody ever came out of the factory perfect, period!   

[gzig5]

I've made some headway and have the driver side door aligned pretty well at this point and all the bolts are tight.  I decided to mount the spare door so I could try and fix the big crease in the original with it off  the car. Anyway, I put the striker bolt in and got it adjusted to where the door just barely lifts going onto the striker.  But I find that the door is not "closing" solidly and will wobble back and forth on the latch bolt and isn't being pulled in or hitting a solid stop. Is this because I removed the perimeter rubber gasket from the door when I was cleaning the rust of the bottom edge, or is there an adjustment in the latch assy?  The original door always latched fine, but it also had it's gasket on at the time.

than it's wrong...Go back and read my first post... As far as not getting two clicks, the striker needs to move out slightly..

The service manual says to set it so the door is lifted as it goes on the pin. I set it so it barely went up and then went back to neutral as it closed further.  Felt it was a reasonable compromise.  It is now neutral on the lift and I moved it out and it would fully latch.  Had to bend the retaining tab in the back to get a little more travel.  When it latched the first time, it wouldn't open,  I really had to pull on the door.  Scared me for a minute.  Seemed to get a little better but still took a lot of effort to open, and I found that it isn't closing to the same spot each time.  That's not going to work, so I need to get some of the little plastic hooks to get the door rubber back on.   The two bumpers on the end are present.  I think I will see about pulling the latch assy out and cleaning/lubing it to see if it will be more consistent.  Needs to be done anyway if this door stays on.  I'm sure that will be an adventure as well.

I wish I hadn't had to blow the whole thing apart at once to get the rocker and floors/frame rails done.  These are the kind of things it would be nice to do one at a time using the other side as a reference.

[1 Wild R/T]

I hate to call the service manual wrong But it that case I will.. The hinges support the door, the latch latches, it doesn't support the door....  Once the hinges wear then the latch starts supporting the door... And the latch wears out because of it....  And the sheetmetal around the latch & striker post eventually fail....   

[jimynick]

Yep, been there and saw that. Another thing to check regarding the door sticking closed is the depth of the striker's engagement IN the latch. They used shims in the factory to move that bolt in and out and I've seen them rubbing inside the latch and binding. That's the only thing that should allow that barring no other actual door to fender/quarter misfits. If the bolt is rubbing the outer side of the latch you can shim it out; if it's rubbing the inside of the latch you'll need to either find a thinner washer or use the judicious application of a piece of 2X4 and a BFH. You can always drive it in further, but it's a cast iron bitch to get it back out! Just sayin.   

[gzig5]

Good point on the depth.  This door I am using is not original.  I took the original off to fix the big crease in it.  When I got the replacement on the first thing I had to do was remove two shims so the striker would enter the slot.  I assumed that was enough, but it may be on the edge.  The old door fits more forward in the door opening.