Main Menu

ecoating and epoxy primer questions

Started by Jocigar, June 17, 2022, 12:40:25 PM

Previous topic Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Jocigar

 
How do you guys prep and clean the ecoating for epoxy ?   coarse scotch-brite pad, 280 grit sandpaper,  DA sander or by hand,  prepsol good before epoxy or denatured alcohol or paint thinner ?   

For DP primer what tip ?   Can I get away with using a cheap HF purple gun to save my good debilis for paints and clears?

The DP primer is older but I have a new sealed activator... hope that works out.

Thanks ! 

JS29

In order of asking, 320 grit on a DA followed by hand sanding where the orbital sander won't reach. red scotch-bright in those really tight and awkward places.  Grease and wax remover, read the mixing instructions and any 1.4 nasal will due.  primer gun's usually have 1.8 tip's.   :alan2cents:     

7E-Bodies

I completely remove the e coat and use bare metal prep. I pretty much follow to a tee the write-up that cuda cody put together. All of the chemicals are listed there with informational sheets attached.
1970 Challenger R/T Numbers Matching 440 Auto in F8 Quad Green


cuda hunter

"All riches begin as a state of mind and you have complete control of your mind"  -- B. Lee

Jocigar

@JS29

How would you test DP40LF, I mixed the base really well last night with drill attachment.    The activator is sealed new from last year.    Before I spray behind Qtr I would like to test it first.    Its a new old gallon so big savings if i don't need to purchase again but could cost more if its not working.   

I remember someone saying the base doesn't go bad, only the activator with time, or once opened.   Guess I'll spray out 6 oz and see how it cures.

BTW, opened the purple gun nozzle to 1.8 will see how that works out.

thx

JS29

 @Jocigar  That is what I would do, It is the activator that can go bad on you.   Use a test panel once it has had proper flash time, top coat it and see if it reacts.  :alan2cents:

anlauto

Quote from: JS29 on June 29, 2022, 11:47:24 AM
@Jocigar  That is what I would do, It is the activator that can go bad on you.   Use a test panel once it has had proper flash time, top coat it and see if it reacts.  :alan2cents:
Some times a visual reaction of bad or wrong activator can happen months after it's painted....ask me how I know :pullinghair:
I've taught you everything you know....but I haven't taught you everything I know....
Check out my web site ....  Alan Gallant Automotive Restoration


Jocigar


You're killing me Alan,  but I guess $400 on a new gallon set is good insurance.    i'll save the old stuff for the next project, god willing.    I can spray some out and wait a year  :bricks: see if it holds up for next time.

Anyone have input on best epoxy color to get, I think DP40 gray/green should do well, they have red, black,LT gray also.  There is some DP40 already on car from what I can tell.

FK5 is the final paint if that matters.

Rich G.

The activator has a shelf life I've been told. I had some that was just about expired and didn't have any problem but I was only priming a fender. There is a code on the can and if you call PPG tech they can tell you if its good. I would think if it's sealed there wouldn't be a problem. This is the PPG tech number if you need it. 1 (800) 647-6050

Jocigar


How long after opening have you guys used the 401LF catalyst ?   

Just curious, I will order new one regardless. 

Tech support just told me they recommend within 2 weeks after open, but they know it can last longer under certain conditions.  So even if I order a new one I'm under very limited time table according to their recommendation.