FK5 burnt orange?

[b5cuda]

I am about ready to buy paint for my '70 cuda clone.  I watched a car show recently where they said FK5 is a very difficult color to paint.  I'm not worried about precise match, but wonder whether this color would be a bad choice for an amateur paint project?  Appreciate hearing from anyone who has experience with this color - thanks!   

[JS29]

Are you taking single stage or base/clear?

[b5cuda]

Base coat/clear coat

[JH27N0B]

They probably meant it's a hard color to match.  I doubt it's any harder to spray than any other metallic color.

[JS29]

A lot depends on the substrate or ground covering. I would think a darker shade of sealer would give you better coverage. A spray out card will tell you how well the base covers. When you spray the car, Ground the vehicle with a chain on a good ground. You are charging the hole car with static electricity in the paint process.   

[anlauto]

Yea it may be hard to get a perfect match, but man does it look great when it's freshly painted 

[benguin]

I've got a soft spot for FK5.   I think they have to be referencing a way to blend into it.  For a fresh respray, you should be good- especially if they can match it to a sample. 

As a side note, about 6 years after painting, there was "an incident" with my trunk lid.  Local shop did a 100% match on the metallic and tone.  Just takes some effort.

[b5cuda]

Sounds good, thanks everyone!

[JS29]

The OP asked the degree of difficulty spaying his car in that color. Coverage is the question, and i saw the show he was referring to. He was taking about zebra stripes. You don't apply base coat on heavy. last coat you keep the distance back for a wide fan. let it flash off in between coats. You will be alright with it.                                                                            Mark. 

[Bossgold]

What they mean is mottling the metallic paint because you sprayed it too wet. Key to metallic paint application is more medium wet coats vs Less heavy wet coats. A heavy wet coat will allow the metallic particles to move around in the wet paint making for an uneven blotchy look especially in darker metallics like FK5. Sanding with 800 grit final will smooth out scratch marks were the metallic will want to settle in as well and don't use 1000 because its to smooth. Seal before spraying. The correct pressure, spray pattern, overlap and distance to the surface are all key to applying even medium wet coats with a 25/75 new paint/to  older paint overlap. Read your Technical data sheet that came with both the base and clear for proper gun settings and application of material. By a Sun gun (used on eBay) to check your work before you clear it and make sure you read the technical data sheet for the proper reducer because if the mix is wrong for the time/weather and area it can also cause an uneven metallic pattern. Take your time and maybe practice on a panel....the sun gun will show imperfections without having to move the car into natural light.

[Bossgold]

I have noticed that the darker metallics on AAR's and T/A's have a great contrast with the matte Black area (Hood,Front,sides) and the deeper paint colors like FK5, F8, TX9, EB7. They look great with a textured Black vinyl top as well. Lighter metallic colors like Go mango or EW1 with white or Black vinyl tops have to much color contrast. The darker metallics are alluring vs the rare color combinations that are fascinating or interesting.

[anlauto]

  good interpretation, I couldn't agree more 

[b5cuda]

Great info, thanks!

[Bossgold]

Finally, you are correct, it should be a base coat clear 2 stage for a metallic color. It creates a depth that you will not get with single stage metallic paint. Single stage is fine for solid colors and I know its not the original way but for the look and repair/blending ease a metallic 2 stage clear is the only way.

[JS29]

@b5cuda  What brand of materials are you thinking of going with?